Bon Appetit Desserts

bon appétit magazine has been seducing readers with to-die-for desserts for more than fifty years. From quick home-style cookies such as double lemon bars to unforgettable special-occasion finales such as a spiced chocolate torte wrapped in chocolate ribbons, Bon Appétit makes it a point in every issue to showcase desserts that make a delicious impression, no matter what the occasion.Culled from Bon Appétit magazine’s extensive archives and including some never-before-published recipes, the Bon Appétit Desserts cookbook is a comprehensive guide to all things sweet and wonderful, designed to inspire both experienced home cooks and those just starting out in the kitchen. This collection of more than six hundred recipes features every kind of dessert: cakes (from layer cakes to coffee cakes, cheesecakes to cupcakes), pies, tarts, candies, puddings, soufflés, shortcakes, fruit desserts, ice cream, cookies, holiday desserts, and much, much more. In trademark Bon Appétit style, the book is rich with resources designed to make the dessert prep process as easy and as accessible as possible, including more than fifty inspiring full-color photographs, dozens of step-by-step illustrations, and tips straight from the Bon Appétit test kitchen. Sidebars in each chapter offer shortcuts, invaluable ingredient and equipment information, and options for adapting the recipes, including ingredient substitutions, suggestions on other uses for recipe components, and of course, plenty of do-ahead tips. Each recipe is also given a “whisk rating” from one to four to indicate the level of difficulty.So what is it exactly that makes Bon Appétit desserts so special? Their proven combination of delicious new twists on classic recipes, each presented in a clear, easy-to-read format, means that Bon Appétit desserts have an appeal that feels both fresh and timeless. And Bon Appétit is a brand that has been trusted and respected for more than half a century. The delicious recipes in Bon Appétit Desserts have been meticulously tested by the magazine’s test kitchen so that each one turns out perfectly—every time.

Bon Appétit Desserts text copyright © 2010 by Condé Nast Publications. Photographs © 2010 by Con Poulos. Illustrations © 2010 by Arthur Mount Illustration. All rights reserved. Printed in China. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of reprints in the context of reviews. For information, write Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC, an Andrews McMeel Universal company, 1130 Walnut Street, Kansas City, Missouri 64106.

E-ISBN: 978-1-4494-0200-6

Library of Congress Control Number: 2010924505

www.andrewsmcmeel.com

Cover design: Leslie Barry and Jennifer Barry, Jennifer Barry Design, Fairfax, California

Cover photography: Con Poulos

Photographs by Con Poulos

Food Styling by Susie Theodorou

Illustrations by Arthur Mount Illustration

Design by Jennifer Barry Design, Fairfax, California

Layout Production by Kristen Hall and Layla Bockhorst

www.bonappetit.com

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contents

Acknowledgments

Introduction

1 The Desserts Pantry

2 Equipment: The Basics

3 Techniques: The Basics

4 Cakes

5 Cheesecakes

6 Pies, Tarts & Pastries

7 Custards & Puddings

8 Fruit Desserts

9 Frozen Desserts

10 Cookies

11 Bar Cookies & Brownies

12 Candy

Online & Mail-Order Sources

Metric Conversions & Equivalents

Contributors

acknowledgments

What kind of people would take on the crazy challenge of creating three huge—and I do mean huge—cookbooks in the space of about five years?

Well, I guess that would be us.

But, really, the topic at hand is a natural. For more than fifty years, Bon Appétit has been creating the most luscious cakes, cheesecakes, pies, puddings, frozen desserts, candies, and cookies on the planet. Our commitment to dessert recipes is unparalleled in magazine history. The hard part was trimming the list down to “only” 650 recipes … or a few more (we couldn’t help ourselves).

Of course, I turned to senior food editor Sarah Tenaglia and associate food editor Lena Birnbaum for the monumental task of selecting the recipes that would best represent the fantastic scope and delicious diversity of our acclaimed desserts. And that’s just what they did—incorporating everything from a simple, classic vanilla ice cream to a showstopping three-tiered wedding cake. Then they and food department colleagues Janet McCracken and Selma Morrow evaluated every recipe to make sure each was up to date. They retested some (not many needed it) and even created a few brand-new ones just for this book. Then our longtime food editor Kristine Kidd evaluated the recipes and assigned each a “whisk rating” to let you know at a glance the difficulty level of those Old-Fashioned Brownies (one whisk) or the Profiteroles with Caramel Sauce (four whisks).

Because we also wanted this to be the definitive guide to dessert preparation, we included extensive recipe headnotes, tips, sidebars, and chapters on stocking your dessert pantry, buying the proper equipment, and mastering baking techniques. These were researched and written by an expert group of Bon Appétit staffers and contributors: Amy Albert, Nina Elder, Camille Hahn, Jeanne Thiel Kelley, Janet McCracken, and Rochelle Palermo. And on pages 636-37, you’ll find the names of the dozens of men and women who made this book what it is by creating and testing recipes, copyediting and proofreading, and checking every fact. I’m grateful to all of them for their commitment to Bon Appétit’s legendary quality and exacting standards.

Executive editor Victoria von Biel saw from the beginning what this book could and should be—not just a compendium of delicious recipes, but the comprehensive desserts cookbook everyone would want to keep, and use repeatedly. Victoria—herself an enthusiastic and expert dessert maker who gets an eager assist in the kitchen from her two daughters—oversaw the book’s creation and made sure that every aspect was considered from the point of view of the cook at home, whether that meant offering detailed instructions on beating egg whites or defining culinary terms we sometimes take for granted.

Needless to say, the logistics involved in putting together a book like this are daunting, and I’m beyond grateful to editorial business director Marcy MacDonald for handling with her usual aplomb the tasks of clearing rights to every recipe, obtaining permissions, shepherding the contract process, working with our colleagues at Andrews McMeel, and coordinating all the in-house business matters (which are endless and vital). Many thanks as well to Marcy’s assistant, Zoë Alexander, and to my assistant, Marcia Hartmann Lewis, who did double duty: managing my insane schedule and working with Zoë to secure and give proper credit for each of the recipes in the book. Frederika Brookfield lent her considerable expertise to the publicity and public relations aspects.

Susan Champlin did an amazing job seeing this book through the entire process even as she was making a major change with a cross-country move from L.A. to New York. Susan still managed to balance all of the facets of the work, as well as the opinions of all the (very opinionated!) editors, production people, and others involved here, without losing her cool—or her moving van. She is an adept and skilled editor, and a gentle guiding force … and was also much better at deadlines on this project than I was. (That’s why you hire people like Susan.)

I’m especially excited by the look of this book, which is just as beautiful, lush, and satisfying as you would expect a Bon Appétit desserts cookbook to be. Con Poulos was our gifted photographer, and captured not just the gorgeous finished desserts (though, of course, there are plenty of those), but also what inspires us as cooks: the excitement—and, yes, the fun—of the dessert-making process itself. Our talented design director, Matthew Lenning, lent his opinions and advice whenever I needed an expert sounding board, and I thank our photo editor Bailey Franklin—a man with a keen eye and much-appreciated natural calm—for his help during the photo-selection process. Arthur Mount’s excellent illustrations clarify techniques throughout the book, and all of the elements are beautifully brought together in Jenny Barry’s terrific, user-friendly design.

David Black, our agent extraordinaire, continues to impress me with the seeming ease of launching every project he helps create for us. We are lucky to have him, and his confidence in Bon Appétit helps me to focus and to think not just about the present project, but also into the future. He is a valued colleague and friend.

Working with the publishing team at Andrews McMeel has been a dream—starting with their enthusiastic reaction to our concept and continuing every step of the way through the creation of this beautiful book. I am in awe of Andrews McMeel president and publisher Kirsty Melville, who is a devoted foodie—talk about bonding with someone instantly—and a publishing maven who combines big-picture vision with amazing attention to detail (also, like Victoria, a busy mother of two and an enthusiastic home cook). Project editor Jean Lucas coordinated this massive project and kept us on track with seemingly endless patience, and I thank her.

I do have a few more personal notes. Si Newhouse, Chuck Townsend, John Bellando, and Tom Wallace continue to lead our parent company, Condé Nast, with diligence and care in the rapidly changing and sometimes confounding business of magazines, the Internet, and beyond. Paul Jowdy is our brilliant and talented leader on the business side as publisher of the magazine. His unwavering support and enthusiasm for what we do—and who we are—is appreciated beyond measure.

I owe eternal thanks to Paige Rense for reinventing Bon Appétit in 1975, and to Pat Brown for hiring me way back when (1978 to be exact) as an editorial assistant who apparently showed some promise. First Marilou Vaughn and then Bill Garry, in particular, helped me refine my skills, expanded my horizons, taught me to think and to challenge myself, and, basically, provided a career that became my life. During our almost twenty years together, Bill gave me great freedom to work with others inside and outside the magazine to help him shape it; I had many key roles and responsibilities even before I became editor-in-chief in 2000.

Finally, love and appreciation to my family: my mom, Ina Lieb (whose brownies, short-bread, and pumpkin pie are still the gold standard), sisters Cara and Devra, nephews, nieces, in-laws, and friends—blessedly, for I am very blessed—too numerous to mention here by name. But most of all to Paul Nagle, who continues to inspire and support me, always with love and care.

— Barbara Fairchild, editor-in-chief

When I was growing up, we had dessert every night.

It wasn’t something that I really ever thought about, it just was. All of my schoolmates had dessert every night, too, not to mention a little something sweet at lunch every day. Of course, there was always a treat of some sort offered when my mom’s friends came over for coffee and when she and Dad played bridge every week, and certainly something special when she hosted a dinner party. We always made cupcakes for school bake sales, and we had a big cookie-making night at holiday time to make gifts for the neighbors and our teachers, with plenty left over for us and anyone who might unexpectedly drop in.

But the weeknight selection was not to be ignored. The simpler desserts came up in rotation a lot: raisin-, nut-, and cinnamon-stuffed baked Rome apples; lime Jell-O studded with bananas; cut-up fresh fruit with a little sour cream on top. My mom was a good cook and baker—she still is—and so we also had wonderful apple pies in the fall; terrific brownies, chocolate chip cookies, and shortbread in the winter; and fresh fruit cobblers and shortcakes in the spring and summer. And at my grandfather’s house in Maryland, my sisters and I took turns churning unforgettably good peach ice cream in a hand-cranked, salt-filled ice-cream maker.

Yes, I still have something after dinner every night, but times have changed and so have desserts. Many are lighter, certainly many are quick, and seasonality and local sourcing are more important than ever. Flavors that once would have seemed exotic—cardamom, pomegranate, lavender, chili-spiked chocolate—are exciting additions to the modern dessert repertoire. During the week, I still keep it simple. I’ll have fresh berries with a little Greek yogurt, a perfect Honeycrisp apple, or a buttery piece of shortbread. On weekends, I might make something grander for a dinner party (Red Wine and Pear Brioche, anyone?), or create a luscious new ice cream in my little electric churn. My philosophy is simple: A good dessert is all about that little hit of sweet that gives any dinner its official wrap-up and launches us into the rest of the evening.

It has been said that the soul of a baker is much different than the soul of a cook. Dessert making is more exacting and precise, and although there is a little room for improvising in some instances, generally it’s best to stick to the recipe. That’s where this book comes in. Each of the more than six hundred recipes here has been tested and retested by the experts in the Bon Appétit kitchens to guarantee sweet success every time. In addition to the recipes, you’ll find notes that let you know what to expect from each recipe; extensive tips and sidebars offering do-ahead suggestions and test-kitchen secrets; step-by-step illustrations to guide you through preparation; and thorough chapters on stocking your pantry, buying the most useful equipment, and mastering the essential techniques of dessert making. We want this to be your ultimate dessert resource, guidebook, and helpmate in the kitchen, whether you’re an enthusiastic beginner or a confident cook looking for some new ideas and tricks.

Bon Appétit Desserts has been a long time coming. After more than three decades of publishing recipes for cakes, cookies, pies, tarts, cheesecakes, ice creams, and so much more, we’ve been able to pack a lot of info and expertise into these pages. This gorgeous book truly is what we say on the cover: the cookbook for all things sweet and wonderful. Nothing provides the satisfaction, gets the attention, or creates memories like a great dessert. And there is little more in life that you can ask for than that.

—Barbara Fairchild, Los Angeles, California

^the desserts pantry

There are many wonderful things about making desserts, not least that you get to eat them afterward. One of the other pluses is that you probably have most of the staples in your cupboard or refrigerator right now: flour, sugar, baking powder, eggs, butter, milk, vanilla extract, baking chocolate. From there, it’s not a huge leap into the delicious world of cakes, pies, custards, ice creams, and cookies—not to mention Linzertortes, Pavlovas, baked Alaskas, tiered wedding cakes, and croquembouches. Following is a guide to the ingredients you’ll be using most often as you bake and cook your way through the recipes in this book, from angel food cake to zabaglione.

Whisk RatingsTo help you determine at a glance which recipe fits your skill level, we’ve given every recipe in the book a “whisk rating,” on a scale of one to four whisks. A complete Index of Whisk Ratings begins on page 638. Very easy to make, with no special techniques required. Perfect for the novice. A little more challenging. For the beginner with confidence. Sophisticated, requiring more mastery of technique, such as caramelizing sugar. For the experienced cook. A showstopping dessert with many steps and components. For the expert baker.

almond paste & marzipan

WHAT: Pliable sweet “doughs” made primarily of ground blanched almonds and sugar, with the addition of glucose or egg whites.

USES: Almond paste is usually used as an ingredient in desserts for flavor and texture. Marzipan is lighter, finer, and sweeter and is often tinted and sculpted into fruit, vegetable, or animal shapes. In the recipes here, it is usually rolled into sheets to cover cakes or to be cut into various shapes.

FIND: In tubes or cans at most supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.

STORE: Unopened in a dry, cool place for up to a year; once opened, store airtight in the refrigerator for up to three months.

baking powder & baking soda

WHAT: Key leavening agents for baked goods—in other words, they help cakes, cookies, and muffins rise and have an airy texture. Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) has four times the leavening power of baking powder. It releases carbon dioxide gas when combined with an acidic ingredient (like buttermilk, molasses, sour cream, or yogurt) and causes dough and batter to rise. Baking powder is a mixture of baking soda, cornstarch, and one or more powdered acids, which release carbon dioxide gas first when moistened and a second time when heated, thus giving baking powder a double-acting leavening ability.

USES: When using baking soda or baking powder, whisk them with the other dry ingredients to distribute them evenly.

FIND: In the baking aisle. You can make your own baking powder by whisking 2 tablespoons of cream of tartar with 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 1½ tablespoons cornstarch three times to ensure that it is well blended.

STORE: In a cool, dry place for about six months. Store homemade baking powder airtight at room temperature for up to one month.

butter

WHAT: Butter is made by churning cream until it separates, forming a milky liquid and the solid butterfat. Unsalted butter is the preferred choice for baking since it allows you to control the amount of salt in recipes. European butter (also known in the U.S. as cultured butter) is made by churning fermented cream rather than regular cream; it has a higher percentage of milk fat and works well in desserts.

USES: Butter adds flavor and richness, makes baked goods tender and flaky, extends the shelf life of breads, and aids in browning. Well-chilled butter is crucial to the success of baked goods like biscuits, shortcakes, scones, and pie dough; however, when beating butter with sugar for cakes and most cookie doughs, the butter will “cream” better if it is at room temperature.

FIND: European butter, such as Plugrá (European-style butter) and Isigny Ste-Mère, can be found alongside regular butter in well-stocked supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.

STORE: Butter absorbs odors easily; store it airtight in the coldest part of the refrigerator and away from foods for one to two months (wrapped). Regular butter can be frozen for up to six months, European-style butter for up to four.

chocolate

WHAT: The purest form of chocolate is the cacao nib, formed after cacao beans are removed from their pods, fermented, dried, roasted, shelled, and cracked open. You can use nibs to add subtle chocolate flavor and a crunchy texture to baked goods, but most nibs are ground into a paste called chocolate liquor. Chocolate liquor is, basically, a combination of cocoa solids and cocoa butter; after further stages of refining, chocolate as we know it is formed.

USES: As a rule of thumb, use the best-quality chocolate you can find and afford. In fact, many of our recipes specify “high-quality chocolate” such as Lindt, Perugina, Valrhona, and Scharffen Berger, which reward you with incredible depth of flavor, sweetness, and smooth texture. Most labels on packages of chocolate now indicate the percentage of cacao—the higher the percentage of cacao, the less sugar and other ingredients.

Dark chocolate includes unsweetened, bittersweet, and semisweet chocolates.

Unsweetened chocolate (100 percent cacao) is pure chocolate with no other ingredients, including sugar; also referred to as baking chocolate.

Bittersweet and semisweet chocolates contain sugar, vanilla, and lecithin, an emulsifier; sometimes you’ll also see milk solids added to mellow the flavor. Bittersweet has a richer chocolate flavor and is less sweet since it has a higher percentage of cacao. In certain Bon Appétit recipes, to guarantee the best results, it’s important to use a bittersweet or semisweet chocolate that doesn’t have too high a percentage of cacao; in those cases, we specify that the chocolate should not exceed 61 percent cacao. In other recipes, the cacao percentage will not affect the outcome; those recipes will simply call for “bittersweet or semisweet chocolate.”

Milk chocolate, made with the addition of dry milk powder, has more sugar than bittersweet or semisweet chocolate.

White chocolate is technically not chocolate because it doesn’t contain chocolate liquor. It is a blend of cocoa butter, sugar, milk products, vanilla, and lecithin. For the best results when using white chocolate in a recipe, use the highest quality possible; make sure it contains cocoa butter, not vegetable oil. Lindt and Perugina are excellent brands.

FIND: In the baking aisle or the candy aisle. If your supermarket doesn’t carry high-quality chocolate, check specialty foods stores or online (see Online and Mail-Order Sources on page 632).

STORE: Wrap tightly and store in a cool, dry place. Unopened, chocolate will keep for several months.

cocoa powder

WHAT: A powder made of the chocolate liquor extracted from cocoa beans.

USES: Natural cocoa (sometimes labeled simply “cocoa” or “nonalkalized cocoa”) is slightly acidic and has a strong flavor and a slightly red color. Many baked goods rely on natural cocoa’s acidity to help set the proteins in baked goods. Dutch-process cocoa has been treated with an alkali, which neutralizes its acidity, softens the harsh flavor, and dramatically darkens the color. But because it lacks acidity, it might not set the proteins properly in baked goods, resulting in cakes that collapse, for example. Use Dutch-process cocoa only in recipes that call for it; substituting Dutch-process for natural cocoa is not recommended.

FIND: In the baking aisle (natural cocoa) or the coffee and tea aisle.

STORE: In a tightly covered container in a cold, dark place for up to two years.

cookies

WHAT: Purchased cookies, such as graham crackers, chocolate or vanilla wafers, biscotti, shortbread, gingersnaps, or any other crisp cookie.

USES: Cookies are often used to make delicious, easy crumb crusts for pies, tarts, and cheesecakes. The cookies are ground into fine crumbs, then combined with butter or shortening and usually some sugar to form a moist, sandy texture that clumps together when squeezed, ensuring that the crumbs will stick to the sides of a pan.

FIND: In the cookie aisle or—depending on the cookie—in specialty foods stores or ethnic markets.

STORE: Unopened packages usually last a month or more.

cornstarch

WHAT: A white, silky powder made from dried and ground corn kernels.

USES: Lends a fine texture to cakes, cookies, and other pastries (it sometimes replaces part of the flour) and is used to thicken puddings, pastry creams, and cooked fruit fillings for pies and cobblers. Sauces thickened with cornstarch remain clear, whereas those thickened with flour turn opaque. To avoid lumps, mix cornstarch with a cold liquid, such as milk, then gradually whisk it into the hot liquid, or mix it with sugar, then add a cold liquid and stir while cooking. For cornstarch to thicken properly, it must come to a near boil.

FIND: In the baking aisle.

STORE: In a cool, dry place for up to a year.

corn syrup

WHAT: A derivative of cornstarch, corn syrup comes in light and dark varieties.

USES: It is often used in recipes for caramel, fudge, and frostings, as it inhibits sugar from crystallizing and creates a smooth texture. It also keeps ice cream creamy by preventing the formation of ice crystals. Light corn syrup is clear and thick and imparts a mild, sugar-like sweetness. Dark corn syrup contains caramel color and flavoring and adds a molasses-like sweetness. It can also be used as a topping for pancakes, waffles, and cornbread.

FIND: Light corn syrup can be found year-round in the baking aisle at the supermarket; dark corn syrup is available at many supermarkets and is especially easy to find at holiday time.

STORE: For up to six months in a cool, dry place.

cream cheese

WHAT: A soft, spreadable cheese made from cow’s milk.

USES: Cream cheese is the basis for most cheesecakes and many frostings. When baking with cream cheese, we prefer Philadelphia brand, as it sets frostings and cheesecakes better than other brands. (Do not substitute whipped cream cheese or low fat or nonfat cream cheese.)

FIND: In the dairy case.

STORE: Once opened, cream cheese should be used within ten days. Unopened, it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one month past the sell-by date.

cream of coconut, sweetened

WHAT: Cream of coconut is made from coconut milk that has been sweetened with sugar. (It is much sweeter than coconut milk, and these two items are not interchangeable.)

USES: Used mainly in desserts and mixed drinks.

FIND: It is available canned as Coco López or in a squeeze bottle as Coco Reál in the beverage and mixers section of most liquor stores and supermarkets.

STORE: Unopened, it will last for up to a year in a cool, dry place.

cream of tartar

WHAT: A fine white powder made from tartaric acid.

USES: It is beaten into egg whites when making meringue to help stabilize the egg foam and prevent it from weeping. It also serves as the acid in many baking powders. Because it inhibits the formation of sugar crystals, it is often used in candies and frosting to create a creamy texture.

FIND: In the spice section of the baking aisle.

STORE: In a cool, dry, dark cupboard for up to a year.

dairy products: buttermilk

WHAT: Originally, buttermilk was the liquid that remained after butter was churned. Today it’s made in a similar way to yogurt and is known as “cultured buttermilk”: Bacterial cultures are added to milk, and the mixture is heated at a low temperature. The bacteria cause the milk to ferment and thicken, resulting in buttermilk’s creamy texture and slightly tart flavor. Despite its name, commercial buttermilk is low in fat, with only 0.5 percent to 2 percent butterfat.

USES: Buttermilk is used in many baked goods, such as cakes, scones, corn-bread, and coffee cake, though it can also be used to make deliciously tangy ice cream, custard, and panna cotta.

FIND: In the dairy section of the supermarket.

STORE: In the refrigerator. Check the sell-by date on the package.

dairy products: cream

WHAT: Cream is formed naturally when milk separates into two layers—a thick, creamy top layer with a thin milky liquid below. The percentage of milk fat in the top layer determines what kind of cream it will be: Heavy whipping cream, which is what Bon Appétit dessert recipes call for, has 36 percent to 40 percent milk fat. For the thickest, richest whipped cream, use pasteurized (not ultra-pasteurized) heavy whipping cream. Note that organic whipping cream will take much longer to whip.

USES: Whipping cream lends an unmatched richness to desserts and a tenderness to many baked goods. Heavy whipping cream is the basis for rich custards, ice creams, ganache, and, of course, fluffy whipped cream. Whipping cream becomes thick and airy and doubles in size when whipped, and the process occurs more quickly when the cream, mixing bowl, and beaters are well chilled.

FIND: In the dairy section of the supermarket.

STORE: In the refrigerator. Check the sell-by date on the package.

dairy products: sour cream & crème fraîche

WHAT: Sour cream is similar to yogurt in that it is treated with a lactic acid culture to give it a tangy flavor and thick texture, but cream is used instead of milk. Crème fraîche is also made with a starter culture—the result is a sweet, tangy cream that’s similar in consistency to sour cream.

USES: Sour cream, along with yogurt and buttermilk, is a key ingredient in baked goods, as its acidity not only helps tenderize cakes, quick breads, and pie crusts, but also helps set the proteins so that pie crusts don’t slide down the sides of the pie dish. Crème fraîche is often used in place of sour cream or as a tangy alternative to whipped cream as a topping.

FIND: In the dairy section of the supermarket. Crème fraîche is available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.

STORE: In the refrigerator. Check the sell-by date on the package.

dairy products: yogurt

WHAT: Yogurt is made by adding bacterial cultures to milk and cooking the mixture at a low temperature. The bacteria cause the milk to thicken, giving yogurt a creamy texture and slightly tart flavor. Most of the yogurt available in supermarkets is made from cow’s milk, although sheep and goat’s milk yogurts are also available. Greek-style yogurt is a type of strained yogurt, made by straining the yogurt through cheesecloth or a coffee filter to remove the excess liquid.

USES: Yogurt adds tanginess and moistness to cakes and quick breads. It is also a lighter alternative to sour cream and crème fraîche, which are made from cream.

FIND: In the dairy section of the supermarket. If you can’t find Greek-style yogurt there, look for it at specialty foods stores (such as Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods markets) and Greek markets.

STORE: In the refrigerator. Check the sell-by date on the package.

eggs

WHAT: Organic eggs are the preferred choice in baking, since the chickens are fed an organic diet and raised without antibiotics. The color of an eggshell—white, brown, green, or blue—makes no difference to the flavor or nutritional value of the egg (the shell color varies with the breed of hen).

USES: Most baking recipes call for large eggs, but always use the size that the recipe calls for to ensure the best results. For meringues, make sure the egg whites are at room temperature to ensure more volume. (You can use packaged egg whites if you prefer, but you may not achieve the same results; the Bon Appétit test kitchen uses only fresh egg whites.)

FIND: Most supermarkets now offer regular, free-range, and organic eggs; farmers’ markets are also a good source for organic eggs.

STORE: In their carton in the coldest part of the refrigerator (usually the bottom shelf) for up to a month.

extracts

WHAT: Concentrated flavorings, such as vanilla, almond, and peppermint. Some are extracted from the oil of plants (such as mint and bitter almonds); others are made by distilling and pressing ingredients (such as vanilla beans).

USES: Always use pure extracts and avoid imitation extracts, which are inferior in quality and flavor. Extracts are useful in baking, as they can be added to batter, dough, sauce, ice cream, and custard without affecting the texture or consistency. Since their flavors are intense, they should be used sparingly. For the best results, add extracts to mixtures that are slightly cooled, since heat weakens the flavors. Vanilla extract is the most widely used extract, as it complements most other flavors (see page 14 for more on vanilla extract). Almond extract has a strong, sweet flavor that complements most pitted fruits, such as cherries, apricots, plums, and peaches. Peppermint extract pairs well with chocolate.

FIND: In the baking aisle.

STORE: Indefinitely in a cool, dark place.

flours

WHAT: Wheat flour is the essential ingredient of many desserts; hard and soft wheat are the two main types of wheat used to make it. The difference is the amount of protein in each. When flour is mixed with water to form dough, the proteins in the flour bond to create a gum-like substance called gluten. Gluten is stretchy and gives dough the elasticity to expand and trap the gas formed by leavening agents like yeast, baking powder, and baking soda. Hard wheat is high in protein and forms flour with stronger gluten; flour made from soft wheat has less protein.

USES: Getting the proper texture for various baked goods requires different types of flour:

All purpose flour is a blend of hard and soft wheats; it is the most common flour used in home kitchens. It can be used for making most baked goods, including breads, cookies, pie crusts, and cakes (unless otherwise specified in the recipe). The recipes in this book call for unbleached all purpose flour, which has not been exposed to bleaching chemicals; instead the ground flour has turned from yellow to white naturally through exposure to oxygen.

Cake flour is soft wheat flour and results in baked goods with a tender texture.

Pastry flour is soft wheat flour with a bit more protein than cake flour; it’s good for making pie doughs, muffins, biscuits, and pastries. Whole wheat pastry flour is also available.

Self-rising flour is all purpose flour with baking powder and salt added. If you don’t have self-rising flour on hand, you can add 1½ teaspoons of baking powder and ¼ teaspoon salt to 1 cup of all purpose flour to equal 1 cup of self-rising flour.

Bread flour is unbleached flour made with hard wheat and is high in gluten. Because it results in a well-risen loaf, it is the best flour to use for making yeast breads.

Whole wheat flour contains the grain’s bran and germ and so has a higher fiber and oil content. White whole wheat flour is milled from white, rather than red, wheat. It has a milder flavor and lighter color than traditional whole wheat but the same fiber and nutrition.

FIND: Most flours can be found in the baking aisle; some specialty flours can be found online (see Online and Mail-Order Sources on page 632).

STORE: Airtight in a cool, dry place for up to six months. Whole wheat flour should be refrigerated (for up to six months) to keep the oils in the flour from turning rancid.

fruits, dried

WHAT: Fresh fruits that have been dehydrated, retaining only 15 percent to 25 percent of their original moisture; dried fruits have a more concentrated flavor than their fresh counterparts.

Dried tart cherries, also known as dried sour cherries, have a wonderful sweet-tart flavor. Dried Bing cherries are sweeter and darker.

Dried apricots are available sulphured and unsulphured. Sulphured dried apricots are more common. They are preserved with sulphur dioxide to extend the shelf life, lighten the color, and keep the dried fruit soft. Unsulphured and organic fruit is darker and sweeter.

Raisins are dried grapes usually made from Thompson seedless or Muscat grapes. Thompson seedless grapes can be used to produce both dark and golden raisins. When the grapes are sun-dried for several weeks, the resulting raisins are darker and more shriveled. To produce golden raisins, the grapes are treated with sulphur dioxide, then dried with artificial heat; golden raisins are fatter and more moist. Raisins made from Muscat grapes are dark and very sweet.

Dried currants, also called Zante currants, are actually not currants; they are tiny raisins made by drying Black Corinth seedless grapes (when fresh, these grapes are also known as Champagne grapes). Dried currants are not related to fresh currants.

Dried figs come in two varieties—dried Calimyrna figs, with thick, beige skin, and dried black Mission figs, which have very dark skin. You can use these varieties interchangeably in Bon Appétit recipes, though the appearance will be different. The figs should be sweet and still relatively moist. Trim the tough tip of the stem, then chop them into a suitable size and add them to baked goods.

Dried coconut is unsweetened shredded, shaved, or chipped coconut flesh. It is different from sweetened flaked coconut, which has been dried, flaked, rehydrated, and sweetened and tends to be moister; they are not interchangeable. Both types lend a mild, sweet, coconut flavor and texture to desserts and are often used as a garnish. When toasted, dried coconut becomes golden and crunchy with a slightly nuttier flavor.

USES: Dried fruits add flavor and sweetness as well as texture to pastries and baked goods. You can use dried fruits as is, or reconstitute them by soaking them in warm liquid—such as water, wine, fruit juice, or liqueur—until they are soft. (But reconstituted fruit is very different from fresh fruit, so don’t try to substitute it for fresh.) Dried fruit can also be simmered in a fruit compote, where it softens considerably.

FIND: Most dried fruits are available in the dried fruit section or produce department of supermarkets and specialty foods stores. Unsulphured dried fruits, such as apricots, are available at natural foods stores and some supermarkets. Dried unsweetened shredded coconut is available at specialty foods stores, natural foods stores, and some supermarkets. Sweetened flaked coconut is available in the baking aisle at most supermarkets. See Online and Mail-Order Sources, page 632, for other places to find dried fruits.

STORE: Keep airtight at room temperature for several months or refrigerate in a tightly sealed bag for up to a year.

fruits, frozen

WHAT: Frozen fruit is a convenient alternative to fresh fruit since it is cleaned, peeled, pitted, cut up, and ready to use. The fruit is harvested at its peak and quickly frozen, so it is ripe, nutritious, and economical; most are available year-round (although frozen cranberries may be difficult to find in the summer).

USES: Frozen berries, cherries, and cranberries are especially good for baked goods (such as pies and cobblers), cooked sauces and compotes, and smoothies and shakes. For some recipes, the fruit does not need to be thawed before using.

FIND: In the frozen foods aisle. When purchasing frozen fruit, feel the bag to check that the pieces of fruit are separate; if they are clumped together in one large piece, this is a sign that the fruit may have been thawed due to improper handling and then refrozen. Most recipes call for unsweetened frozen fruit, but some frozen fruit is sweetened and packaged in syrup, so check the packaging carefully. To freeze your own fresh fruit, wash, trim, peel, seed or pit, and chop larger fruits, like bananas, mangoes, peaches, and strawberries (other berries and cranberries can be frozen as is), then arrange the fruit in a single layer on a baking sheet and freeze. Enclose frozen fruit in resealable plastic freezer bags and keep frozen.

STORE: In resealable plastic freezer bags in the freezer for up to six months. Unopened packages of purchased frozen fruit can be kept in the freezer for six months.

gelatin

WHAT: A thickener and stabilizer derived from animal bones, cartilage, tendons, and other connective tissue (therefore, not suitable for consumption by vegetarians).

USES: Thickens desserts such as panna cotta, gelatin, mousse, pudding, parfait, and marshmallows. It does not impart any color, flavor, or smell. It must be soaked in a cool liquid (usually water) to soften, then stirred over low heat until completely dissolved before it is blended with other ingredients. Once the dessert is chilled, the gelatin becomes firm like jelly, and depending on the amount used, it will set the dessert to the desired consistency, from thickening to firming completely. Some ingredients, such as fresh figs, ginger, guava, kiwi, mangoes, papaya, and pineapple, contain an enzyme that prevents gelatin from setting; however, once cooked, they can be used.

FIND: Gelatin is sold as unflavored, unsweetened tiny granules in small packets; it’s available in the baking aisle of supermarkets. Agar, a thickener made from red algae, is a good vegetarian/vegan alternative that can be found in natural foods stores.

STORE: Gelatin keeps in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to a year. Dried agar can be stored for up to two years in an airtight container.

ginger

WHAT: Fresh ginger is a knobby root with bulbous offshoots and a spicy, sweet, pungent flavor. Dried ground ginger has a distinctive, strong flavor that is quite different than fresh ginger. Crystallized ginger is slightly chewy, candy-like pieces of ginger that have been cooked in sugar syrup and coated with sugar.

USES: Fresh ginger adds a clean and refreshing flavor to sorbets, ice creams, syrups, and sauces. Dried ground ginger is an essential ingredient in many desserts and baked goods, such as ginger cookies and gingerbread. Crystallized ginger adds spicy sweetness to cakes, scones, cookies, and ice cream. With its sparkly sugar coating, it also makes a pretty garnish.

FIND: Fresh ginger can be found in the produce section. It should be firm with smooth, tan, slightly shiny skin and a moist flesh with a fresh aroma. The skin needs to be peeled and, since fresh ginger has fibers that run down the length of the root, it should be thinly sliced crosswise or grated. Ground ginger is sold in the spice aisle. Crystallized ginger is available sliced, finely diced, and cubed at many supermarkets, natural foods stores, and Asian markets.

STORE: Fresh unpeeled ginger will keep at room temperature for up to three days, up to three weeks tightly wrapped and stored in the refrigerator, or frozen for up to six months. Dried ginger can be stored in a cool, dry place for up to six months. Crystallized ginger can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three months, in the refrigerator for up to six months, or in the freezer for up to a year.

honey

WHAT: There are hundreds of honeys available, ranging in taste and form from robustly flavored liquid honey to whipped honey. The flavor and color of honey depends on the type of flower from which the nectar is foraged. For instance, when bees forage for honey in a lavender patch or on the blossoms of orange trees, the honey can take on the subtle flavors of that flower.

USES: Honey is a natural sweetener that is used in many desserts and as a syrup for pastries, cornbread, and breakfast items such as pancakes and French toast. It lends its distinctive flavor to classic desserts and candies, such as baklava and nougat. Cakes and cookies made with honey stay moist longer than those made with sugar. And cookies made with honey are soft rather than crisp. Honey gives chocolate sauce a gooey, fudgy texture. Clover honey, the most widely used honey, imparts a traditional honey flavor, but orange blossom honey and lavender honey are two types of honey that are prized for their floral, perfumey flavors.

FIND: Clover and other honeys are available at the supermarket and at farmers’ markets. Varietal honeys are often available in specialty foods stores, or online (see Online and Mail-Order Sources on page 632).

STORE: Airtight at room temperature for up to a year. If honey crystallizes, the jar can be heated in a pan of warm water for 10 to 20 minutes to dissolve the crystals.

jams & preserves

WHAT: Jams and preserves are fruits cooked with sugar and sometimes pectin; preserves feature larger pieces of fruit.

USES: Jams and preserves add a sweet, concentrated fruit flavor to a variety of desserts. They can be used as filling for Italian crostatas, French jam tarts, crepes, doughnuts, and layered cakes. They are often swirled in breakfast pastries and cakes and used in cookies such as thumbprints, pinwheels, sandwich cookies, and rugelach. Apricot jam has a light amber color and is often used as a glaze for fruit tarts.

FIND: In the peanut butter section of the supermarket.

STORE: Most jams and preserves will keep for up to a year in the refrigerator.

maple syrup

WHAT: Pure maple syrup is the boiled-down sap of maple trees; it takes 20 to 50 gallons of sap to make a single gallon of maple syrup. Maple syrup is classified according to the intensity of its amber color, going from light (AA) to dark (C), and its maple flavor, although the grade is not a reflection of quality. Generally, the darker the syrup, the more robust the flavor. Grade B is preferred for most of the recipes in this book because of its robust flavor.

USES: Maple syrup is a natural sweetener. Because it lends a mild maple flavor to baked goods and desserts, it can sometimes be used in place of other liquid sweeteners, such as honey and corn syrup.

FIND: Grade B maple syrup can be found at the supermarket or specialty foods stores. If you can’t find Grade B, Grade A syrup can be used instead. Avoid syrups that are labeled “pancake syrup” but look like maple syrup—these less expensive imitators of maple syrup actually contain corn syrup and artificial flavors, but no maple syrup.

STORE: Once opened, maple syrup keeps in the refrigerator for up to a year.

mascarpone

WHAT: Although often referred to as cream cheese, Italian mascarpone is technically a very thick cream. It has an even richer, creamier flavor than heavy whipping cream and a thick, smooth, spreadable consistency. Its flavor is similar to cream cheese but has a sweeter, creamier taste compared to the tangy, salty flavor of cream cheese.

USES: Mascarpone’s creamy qualities make it a blank slate for showcasing other flavors. Mascarpone is the essential ingredient in tiramisù and is often used in cheesecakes, frostings, and mousses. It can also be served in lieu of butter atop waffles, crepes, and French toast or spread onto toast and topped with jam.

FIND: In small plastic containers in the cheese or dairy section of most supermarkets, Italian markets, specialty foods stores, and natural foods stores.

STORE: In the refrigerator for up to a month.

molasses

WHAT: A sweet, thick, dark brown syrup with a distinctive roasted, tangy flavor that is characteristic of gingerbread. Molasses is the by-product of processing sugarcane or sugar beets into table sugar. There are three basic types of molasses available: light, which comes from the first boiling of the sugar syrup; dark, from the second; and blackstrap molasses, from the third boiling. Dark molasses is more robust and less sweet than light molasses, and blackstrap molasses is even darker and more bittersweet.

USES: We recommend unsulphured molasses because it is the purest. The recipes in this book specify whether to use light or dark molasses; blackstrap should never be used because its flavor is too bitter.

FIND: Near the maple syrups in the supermarket and at specialty foods stores.

STORE: Airtight in a cool, dry place for up to a year.

nuts

WHAT: Most nuts are fruits or seeds, although peanuts are technically legumes.

USES: Nuts add flavor, texture, and richness to baked goods and desserts. They are sold shelled or unshelled, raw or roasted, salted or unsalted, or seasoned. Some, such as almonds, are available slivered, sliced, chopped, and blanched. Most desserts and baking recipes call for shelled raw or toasted nuts that are unsalted.

FIND: Because nuts are high in fat, they can easily become rancid. It is best to buy them from sources that have a high turnover rate to ensure freshness—such as natural foods stores, farmers’ markets, and online sources specializing in nuts. They’re also available at supermarkets.

STORE: To help keep them fresh, store shelled nuts airtight in the refrigerator for up to six months, and in the freezer for up to a year.

peanut butter

WHAT: Natural peanut butter, also known as old-fashioned peanut butter, is made by blending roasted peanuts with some salt into a paste that is either creamy or crunchy. Many major-brand regular peanut butters contain sugar, molasses, and other additives. In recent years, these brands have replaced partially hydrogenated oils with palm oil; the palm oil prevents the natural oils found in peanut butter from separating from the peanut butter.

USES: The separation of oil and peanut butter is a common occurrence in natural peanut butter, so it must be stirred to blend before it is measured. At room temperature, natural peanut butter tends to be thinner than regular peanut butter, yet firmer when cold. Since natural and regular peanut butter are quite different in texture and flavor, it is important to use the style called for in the recipe.

FIND: In the supermarket.

STORE: After opening, store in the refrigerator for up to six months.

phyllo dough & puff pastry

WHAT: Although they both create decadent, flaky crusts for desserts, phyllo dough and puff pastry are quite different. Phyllo dough is paper-thin sheets of dough (made of flour, water, and oil); in many recipes, each layer is brushed with melted butter and then stacked to create a crust. Puff pastry is made by wrapping chilled butter in dough and repeatedly rolling and folding. For each, it is this layering of pastry dough with butter that makes them puff. When baked, the butter releases its moisture as steam, which is trapped by the dough, causing the layers of dough to separate and puff. Baked phyllo dough is crisper than puff pastry.

USES: Phyllo dough and puff pastry dough are two indispensable ingredients for making some of the most prized desserts and pastries, ranging from baklava and apple strudel to napoleons and elegant tarts.

FIND: Making these doughs from scratch is very labor-intensive and time-consuming, but, fortunately, they can easily be purchased. Both are widely available in the freezer section of supermarkets and specialty foods stores, near the frozen fruits and desserts. Look for frozen puff pastry that lists butter as a main ingredient. Phyllo dough can also be purchased fresh at Middle Eastern markets.

STORE: In the freezer for up to a year. Thaw frozen phyllo dough overnight in the refrigerator, puff pastry at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

salt

WHAT: Salt is a key ingredient in baked goods and desserts and comes in a variety of forms used in baking:

Table salt is inexpensive common white salt; it’s very fine grained and contains additives that help prevent it from clumping. Some bakers prefer this salt because its fine grains blend and dissolve easily in batters and dough. However, others avoid table salt because they feel it has a harsh, chemical flavor.

Kosher salt is coarse-grained salt that is free of additives and has a smoother flavor than table salt. If a recipe calls for kosher salt, don’t use table salt, as they are not interchangeable (table salt is far saltier).

Sea salt has a fresh, smooth flavor and is available in fine and coarse grains. The fine grains are used like table salt, and the coarse grains are often used as a “finishing salt,” sprinkled on food as a garnish just before serving. Some sea salts are rich in minerals, which gives them an off-white or gray color.

Fleur de sel (meaning “flower of salt” in French) is a sea salt that is hand-harvested off the coast of France. Because only the very top layer of salt is collected in a labor-intensive process, it is more expensive than table salt and kosher salt. It has large, damp grains and is available at specialty foods stores and natural foods stores. It is used only as a finishing salt.

USES: A small amount of salt heightens and intensifies flavors; without it, breads, cakes, and cookies taste flat and can fall short of dazzling. When using salt in batters, whisk it with the other dry ingredients to ensure that it is evenly dispersed. When beating egg whites for meringues, add the salt toward the end, since salt can make egg foams unstable.

FIND: Table salt and kosher salt are available in the baking aisle at the supermarket. Sea salt and fleur de sel can be found in some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.

STORE: Airtight in the cupboard indefinitely.

shortening

WHAT: Solid vegetable shortening is pure vegetable oil in a solid state. Bon Appétit recommends non-hydrogenated shortening, which is healthier because it contains no trans fats. Note that shortening is not the same thing as margarine, which usually contains water, whey, salt, and other ingredients. If a recipe calls for shortening, do not substitute margarine, as the added ingredients can alter the texture of the dessert.

USES: Solid vegetable shortening is often used in combination with butter in crusts. Because it’s more malleable than butter (which contains some milk solids), shortening makes the crust easier to work with and to roll out, preventing the dough from cracking and falling apart. It’s helpful to novice pie makers for that reason. And because it’s all fat, it helps make the crusts flaky. However shortening does not have any flavor, so it’s best used in combination with butter. To measure solid vegetable shortening accurately, pack it firmly into a measuring cup and level it off with a knife. Rinsing the measuring cup with cold water first will make it easier to scrape the shortening from the cup with a rubber spatula.

FIND: Non-hydrogenated vegetable shortening is available at supermarkets, specialty markets, and natural foods stores. It’s usually found in the aisle where vegetable oils and olive oils are sold; in some markets it’s in the baking aisle.

STORE: Technically shortening does not need refrigeration after opening, but since it’s usually used chilled for pie crusts, do keep it in the refrigerator. It will keep for at least a year, and will last even longer if stored in the freezer.

spices

WHAT: Spices are aromatic seasonings derived from the bark, roots, seeds, buds, or berries of plants and trees. Allspice, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and nutmeg are among the most frequently used spices for desserts.

Allspice, a brown berry, is available whole or ground. It’s originally from tropical regions, including Jamaica, South America, and the West Indies, and tastes like a mixture of cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, and black pepper.

Cardamom is a small, pale green pod with small black seeds. It is sold as whole pods, seeds, and ground. Cardamom is native to India and frequently used in Southeast Asian cuisines, Middle Eastern cuisines, and Scandinavian breads and pastries. It has a warm, pungent aroma and flavor. The easiest way to remove the seeds from cardamom pods is to enclose the pods in a resealable plastic bag, then whack them a few times with a skillet, rolling pin, or meat mallet. Remove the husks from the bag, and keep whacking until the seeds are crushed as finely as you like.

Cinnamon, the bark of an evergreen tree indigenous to India and Sri Lanka, is sold both in stick form and as a ground powder. However, much of the cinnamon on the market in the United States is actually cassia (also the bark of an evergreen tree), which has a stronger flavor than genuine cinnamon. Sticks of the two types appear quite different. True cinnamon quills consist of paper-thin layers of bark rolled together. Cassia sticks are a single layer of thick, stiff bark. If you prefer the flavor of true cinnamon (some people like cassia’s more assertive character), look for jars labeled Ceylon cinnamon or plastic bags of Mexican cinnamon.

Cloves are the dried, unopened flower buds of a tropical evergreen tree. They’re sold whole or ground and have a very pungent flavor. A little goes a long way; using too much has a numbing effect and its flavor will overpower the dish.

Ginger is the knobby root of a tropical plant. It is most frequently used fresh, dried and ground, and crystallized (see page 10 for more information).

Nutmeg is an oval-shaped seed of a fruit native to East Indonesia. It is sold whole or ground, and has a warm, sweet flavor and aroma. Whole nutmeg can be grated with a Microplane grater or nutmeg grinder, and will have a much more intense flavor than purchased ground nutmeg.

USES: Ground spices are convenient to use, but their flavors deteriorate more quickly than whole spices. Toasting spices changes their flavor dramatically (consider how different a slice of bread tastes when toasted), so if a recipe calls for a spice to be toasted, don’t skip that step—you’ll be shortchanging the dish.

FIND: All of the spices listed here can be found in the spice aisle.

STORE: In tightly sealed canisters in a cool, dark cupboard; ground spices will keep for six months to a year; whole spices will keep about twice as long.

sugar

WHAT: Sugar is probably the first ingredient people think of when they think of desserts. It comes in a variety of forms, including the familiar granulated white sugar, powdered (or confectioners’) sugar, raw sugar, and light and dark brown sugar.

USES: Sugar plays various roles, depending on the kind of sugar being used.

Granulated sugar is highly refined from the juices of sugarcane or sugar beets. It is sold in cubes and in several different textures, from superfine—which dissolves easily, making it ideal for meringues and for sweetening drinks—to coarse, which is often colored and used as decoration.

Powdered sugar (also known as confectioners’ sugar) is white sugar that’s been ground into a fine powder and mixed with a small amount of cornstarch to help absorb moisture and prevent caking. If powdered sugar is excessively clumpy, sift it before measuring. Because it dissolves easily, it’s good for making icings, frostings, and whipped cream. It is frequently dusted over baked goods as a garnish.

Raw sugar is a coarse-grained sugar with a light amber color, sparkly appearance, and sweet flavor with notes of caramel. Turbinado sugar and demerara sugar are varieties of raw sugar. Raw sugar is partially refined, but unlike granulated sugar, it retains a bit of molasses residue. Since raw sugar has large sparkly grains, it is often used as a finishing sugar—it is especially pretty sprinkled on scones and pie crusts before baking—and can be substituted for white or brown sugar when used as a garnish. However, it is not always interchangeable with white and brown sugar in recipes that call for a particular sugar.

Brown sugar is white sugar mixed with molasses and comes in two main varieties: golden brown sugar, also called light brown sugar, and dark brown sugar, which has a stronger molasses flavor. When measuring brown sugar, always pack it firmly in the measuring cup, unless otherwise specified.

FIND: Granulated, powdered, and brown sugars are all sold in the baking aisle at the supermarket. Raw sugar is available in the baking section of many supermarkets and specialty foods stores.

STORE: In your cupboard or pantry. Brown sugar is a soft, moist sugar that hardens when exposed to air, so store it in an airtight container at room temperature. If it hardens, enclose it in an airtight container with a damp paper towel or wedge of apple on top and let it stand for a couple of days, or place it in a microwave-safe dish and cover with two damp paper towels, then microwave on high for about 30 seconds.

tapioca, quick-cooking

WHAT: A starchy thickener derived from the cassava plant.

USES: Thickens the fruit juices in cobblers, pies, crisps, and other desserts. Don’t use regular tapioca pearls, which are much larger and won’t soften and dissolve properly.

FIND: In the baking aisle.

STORE: Can be kept in a cool, dry place for two to three years.

vanilla

WHAT: Vanilla adds a sweet perfume and underlying flavor to desserts. It comes in three forms:

Vanilla beans are actually long, thin, dried pods of a tropical orchid; Madagascar and Tahiti produce high-quality vanilla beans. Vanilla beans have an exotic flavor that is more complex than that of vanilla extract. The pods are usually split lengthwise with the point of a knife, exposing the fragrant tiny, black, sticky vanilla seeds (see page 38 for tips on doing this). Typically, the pods are then steeped in a hot liquid or the seeds are scraped out and added to the batters.

Vanilla extract is the most commonly used type of vanilla. Vanilla beans are chopped and soaked in an alcohol-water solution, which is then aged for several months. Vanilla extract has a deep brown color, a slightly syrupy consistency, and a rich perfume. Always use pure vanilla extract, as imitation vanilla is inferior in quality and taste. One teaspoon of vanilla extract can be substituted for a 2-inch piece of vanilla bean (or a 1-inch piece of Tahitian vanilla bean). For the best results, add vanilla extract to mixtures that are slightly cooled; heat weakens vanilla extract’s flavor.

Vanilla paste is a concentrated form of vanilla extract and includes the pretty flecks of fresh vanilla bean seeds. If you have it on hand, you can use it as a substitute for vanilla beans; 1 tablespoon of vanilla paste is the equivalent of one whole vanilla bean.

USES: Vanilla is extremely versatile and can stand alone in puddings, custards, sauces, ice cream, cakes, and cookies, or be paired with other intense flavors such as chocolate, coffee, and spices.

FIND: Vanilla beans are available in the spice aisle of most supermarkets and at natural foods stores and specialty foods stores. Look for pods that are plump, pliable, and slightly moist. Vanilla extract is in the spice aisle at the supermarket. Vanilla paste is available at specialty foods stores and online.

STORE: Wrap vanilla beans in plastic and store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to six months. Vanilla extract and vanilla paste keep indefinitely when stored airtight in a cool, dark place.

wine & spirits

WHAT: Wines, liqueurs, and spirits add sophisticated flavor and aroma to desserts. The following wines, liqueurs, and spirits are used most often in this book.

FORTIFIED WINES

Fortified wines are those that have had brandy or another spirit added to them, either during or after the fermentation process. When the spirit is added during fermentation, it stops the fermentation and leaves more sugar in the wine, resulting in a sweet and strong product.

Port is a sweet, fortified wine. Available varieties include Porto, ruby Port, tawny Port, and vintage Port. Ruby is most frequently used in the recipes in this book; ruby Port has a darker red color and fruitier flavor than tawny Port.

Muscat is a sweet wine made from Muscat grapes; it can range in color from white to deep, rich pink, but most of the versions called for in this book will be white (pale gold). Muscat wines are made in many countries and go by different names, includin Beaumes-de-Venise, a type of fortified Muscat wine from the village of Beaumes-de-Venise, France; moscato, made in Italy; and Essensia, a brand of fortified sweet dessert wine made in California from perfumey Orange Muscat grapes.

Marsala is an Italian fortified wine. It is commonly available as sweet or fine (dry), and is typically used in tiramisù and zabaglione.

Madeira is a Portuguese fortified white wine with an amber color. It is similar to sherry and ranges from sweet to dry.

Sherry is a fortified wine. It ranges from dry (fino or manzanilla) to sweet (oloroso; cream, a kind of oloroso sherry; amoroso; or amontillado, which has a nutty flavor).

LIQUEURS

Liqueurs are sweetened alcoholic beverages made by adding sugar to distilled alcohol and flavoring it with fruit, nuts, herbs, or spices.

Grand Marnier is a Cognac-based liqueur with an orange flavor. Cointreau or other orange liqueurs can usually be substituted.

Amaretto is a liqueur, originally from Italy, with an almond flavor.

Chambord is a French liqueur with a black raspberry flavor and a deep ruby color.

Kahlúa is a Mexican liqueur with a rich roasted coffee flavor and a dark brown color.

Frangelico is a hazelnut-flavored liqueur with a pale golden color.

SPIRITS

Brandy is distilled from either wine or another fermented fruit juice. Armagnac is the limousine of brandies. It has more flavor and a smoother texture than any other brandy. Cognac makes the best substitute.

Eau-de-vie is a clear brandy or other spirit distilled from fermented wine or fruit juice. Kirsch (made from cherries), framboise (made from raspberries), and poire Williams (made from pears) are popular eaux-de-vies.

Rum is distilled from fermented sugarcane. It is available clear (or light), and dark. Most recipes in this book that use rum call for dark rum.

Whiskey is distilled from a mash of fermented grains such as corn, rye, and barley. Whisky from Scotland (spelled without an “e”) is called Scotch and is made from a mash of barley. Bourbon is an American whiskey made mostly from a mash of corn. Irish whiskey is made from barley and other grains.

USES: Wines, liqueurs, and spirits can be paired with other ingredients of similar flavor—amaretto with almonds, for example, or Grand Marnier with fresh oranges. Or they may provide the focal point of flavor for a dessert.

FIND: All of these wines, liqueurs, and spirits can be found at liquor stores or in the liquor aisle of supermarkets and specialty foods stores.

STORE: In a cool, dry place. Unopened, liqueurs can last indefinitely. Once opened, fortified wines should be used within a few weeks (buy half-bottles if you don’t think you’ll be able to use a whole bottle that quickly). Liqueurs can last up to three years once opened; distilled spirits up to two years.

yeast, dry

WHAT: Dry yeast, also called active dry yeast, comes as dehydrated granules in small packets and jars. Dry yeast acts as the leavening (rising) agent in dough; when mixed with other ingredients, such as flour, water, and sugar, and allowed to sit in a warm place, yeast converts these ingredients into carbon dioxide and alcohol. The alcohol burns off while the carbon dioxide causes the dough to rise. Dry yeast is available as regular and quick-rising (also known as rapid-rise) yeast.

USES: To activate (or proof) yeast, combine it with a warm liquid (105°F to 115°F), as instructed in the recipe. Use an instant-read thermometer to check the temperature; never use a liquid that is too hot or too cold, as doing so can slow the yeast’s growth or even kill it. If the mixture doesn’t foam after 10 to 15 minutes, the yeast is not active, and you need to start again with a new package of yeast.

FIND: In the baking aisle.

STORE: In the refrigerator; use by the date indicated on the jar or packet.

equipment

the basics

Anyone can make desserts with equipment already on hand—

which probably includes measuring cups and spoons, a cake pan or two, baking dishes in a few sizes, a whisk, a spatula, maybe a food processor. All indispensable. But if you’re serious about baking, and you plan to do it on anything like a regular basis, having a well-stocked kitchen will transform your life—making dessert preparation faster, more efficient, and simply more fun. Here’s a guide to the essential elements of a dessert-maker’s kitchen. (Note that you’ll also find plenty of information throughout the book on other handy tools that will help with specific recipes.)

baking dishes & pans

Bon Appétit recipes are usually specific about the type of baking dish to use. It’s wise to buy a variety of sizes and materials, including heavy-duty metal, tempered glass, earthenware, porcelain, and enameled cast iron.

A heavy-duty metal baking pan is preferable when high-temperature baking or broiling is involved, because metal can withstand higher heat than ceramic or glass.

For fruit crisps and cobblers, which contain acidic ingredients, glass or ceramic baking dishes are better than metal, which reacts with acidic ingredients—and they can go from freezer to microwave to oven with ease. Ceramic baking dishes have an added advantage: They’re made in attractive colors and are pretty enough to serve from right at the table. The recipes in this book regularly call for 2-inch-deep baking dishes in these sizes: 8×8, 9×9, 11×7, and 13×9 inches.

baking sheets

Rimmed baking sheets, also known a jelly-roll pans or sheet pans, are usually about an inch deep. They’re great for cookies and pastries; you’ll want a few of them if you’ll be baking multiple batches of cookies. They can also be used under fruit-filled items like cobblers, pies, tarts, and turnovers, which can bubble over during baking. Rimmed baking sheets are also great for organizing groups of prepped ingredients and ferrying them around the kitchen. Heavy-duty, commercial-weight aluminized sheets (available at well-stocked cookware and restaurant supply stores) are the best choice because they won’t warp or buckle at high temperatures. Rimmed baking sheets come in quarter-sheet pan size (about 13×9 inches) and half-sheet pan size (about 18×13 or 17×12 inches). Note that pan dimensions may vary depending on the manufacturer.

Rimless baking sheets are helpful when it’s necessary to slide free-form tarts and other delicate items directly from baking sheet to cooling rack; they’re also good for baking cookies.

bowls

A set of nesting mixing bowls made of tempered glass, metal, or plastic is easy to store neatly. The various graduated sizes come in handy for mixing doughs and batters, tossing fruit salads, and organizing prepped ingredients.

cake pans

Heavy-duty round metal cake pans come in many diameters and depths. The recipes in this book regularly call for 8-, 9-, and 10-inch-diameter pans with 2-inch-high sides.

Rectangular or square metal cake pans are ideal for breakfast and snack-type cakes. Glass baking dishes can be used, but because cakes bake faster in glass pans than in metal ones (and because glass pans stay hot longer after being removed from the oven), you should reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees and start checking for doneness a few minutes earlier than the recipe says. Avoid dark metal pans altogether—they tend to brown cakes too quickly.

Springform pans, which come in several diameters, are an excellent choice for creamy-textured cakes, like cheesecakes and mousse cakes. The high, removable sides provide a form for the cake and the latched sides make unmolding simple.

More specialized cakes—such as Bundt and angel food—require their own pans; a Bundt pan can also double as a kugelhopf pan.

cake turntable

For frosting and decorating cakes, a cake turntable offers excellent maneuverability (a lazy Susan would do the trick, too). It allows the cake to be rotated and also raises it several inches above the work surface so that all sides may be reached easily.

cherry pitter

To pit whole cherries quickly, try using a cherry pitter. In our test kitchen, we use the Oxo Good Grips cherry/olive pitter (about $13; oxo.com). It holds large cherries easily and has a splatter shield that protects you, your clothes, and your countertop from the staining juices. If you don’t have a cherry pitter, use a chopstick: Push it into the fruit through the stem end, forcing the pit out the opposite end.

citrus juicers

Electric and manual citrus juicers are designed to squeeze juice from lemons, limes, oranges, and grapefruits. An electric juicer is an efficient way to extract the most juice quickly. Less expensive and also easy to use are manual juicers. A few different models are available. When just a few teaspoons of juice are needed, a hand reamer is an easy-to-use option. Press and twist this small fluted tool into the citrus half, working over a strainer to catch the seeds. With a reamer set on a perforated base, the perforated base catches the seeds and sits over a dish that catches the juice. A scoop-shape juicer works best for lemon and lime halves. This perforated, clamp-like squeezer resembles an oversize round garlic press and operates like one, too.

citrus zester

To get slender strands of peel from lemons, limes, grapefruit, and oranges, use a five-pronged zester, which removes the zest while leaving the bitter pith behind.

cookie & biscuit cutters

Cookie cutters in a variety of shapes and sizes will come in handy all year, and can be used for making cutouts to decorate the top crusts of pies, too. Biscuit cutters, which are deeper than cookie cutters, are sold in sets of three or four or more, all with different diameters. Fluted or straight edged, they are perfect for biscuits and shortcakes and can double as cookie cutters. Our recipes commonly call for 2- to 3-inch round cutters.

cooling rack

A cooling rack lets air circulate underneath cookies, cakes, and pies for rapid, even cooling.

cupcake pans

Cupcake pans, also known as muffin pans, are usually made of metal. They come in a variety of sizes, for baking standard-size, oversize, or mini muffins or cupcakes. Bon Appétit recipes usually call for standard (⅓-cup) cupcake pans, with cups that are 3 inches in diameter. For mini cupcakes, pans with 2-inch-diameter cups are the pan of choice.

custard cups, ramekins & soufflé dishes

Custard cups are handy for baking individual puddings and for organizing prepped ingredients, too. They’re made in two basic styles: Tempered-glass custard cups are squat glass cups that are wider than they are tall. These have flared sides and come in sizes that range from 4 to 8 ounces in capacity. Ceramic custard cups have gently tapered, fluted sides. They’re less squat than glass custard cups and range from 2 to 6 ounces in capacity.

Ramekins are squat dishes with flat bottoms and straight, fluted sides. Most are made of ceramic, though glass versions are also available. Ramekins come in a wide variety of sizes; the recipes in this book most often call for ½-, ¾-, ⅔-, and 1-cup ramekins. Stock a range: You’ll use them for baking individual puddings, soufflés, and cheesecakes and for organizing prepped ingredients.

Soufflé dishes are bigger, straight-sided ceramic dishes that resemble oversize ramekins and hold a quart or more. Glass versions are also available. Soufflé dishes are pretty enough to sit on the table and double as serving dishes.

double boiler

A double boiler consists of two pans, one set on top of the other. It’s useful for melting chocolate, making custard sauces, and other kitchen tasks that involve cooking above simmering water. If you don’t have a double boiler, rig one up by placing a metal mixing bowl in a saucepan of simmering water, but not so low that the bottom touches the water. (The bottom of the bowl must sit close to but not touch the simmering water when cooking eggs for a custard. When melting chocolate, this is less of a concern.)

electric mixers

Because it’s light, with a less powerful motor than a stand mixer, handheld electric mixer is ideal for mixing or beating small amounts. And because it’s portable, it’s also useful for quick jobs like whipping cream for a dessert garnish or making zabaglione on the stovetop. Handheld mixers are much less expensive than stand mixers.

A stand mixer is a heavy-duty version of the handheld mixer that’s capable of dealing with large and small quantities of dough or other mixtures, leaving your hands free for other tasks—it can mix and whip while you scoop, measure, and sift. And it comes with a variety of attachments that perform very different functions:

The wire whisk incorporates the maximum amount of air into light mixtures—use it for whipping eggs and sugar for flourless chocolate cakes and angel food cakes, and for whipping cream.

The flat paddle beater is best used for working with firmer mixtures, such as creaming butter and sugar for cake batter or mixing cookie dough. The BeaterBlade, a brand-name product, is a flat paddle beater with a flexible rubber edge that functions like a windshield wiper for the mixing bowl, almost eliminating the need to stop the machine to scrape down the sides of the bowl. It can be purchased separately from specialty cookware stores—or go to beaterblade.com for more outlets.

You won’t need to use the dough hook for the recipes in this book. Save it for mixing and kneading yeast dough for breads.

food processors

For quick chopping, pureeing, slicing, and grating, nothing beats a food processor. It comes with several attachments, including an S-shaped metal blade (which is probably the one you’ll use most often when making desserts; it’s perfect for making crumb crusts for cheesecakes, for example). A plastic dough blade, a shredding disk, and a slicing disk are other attachments.

Use a large-capacity food processor, which holds anywhere from 7 to 16 cups, to make purees and mix some doughs. Count on a mini processor, which holds around 2 cups, to pulverize small quantities of nuts or make flavored sugar.

graters

If you’re in the market for a grater, choose a reputable brand, like Microplane. The problem with many graters is that the teeth on them aren’t particularly efficient. Look for graters with super-sharp, razor-fine teeth: They’re essential for grating citrus zest, fresh ginger, chocolate, and nutmeg. Graters come in several different styles.

Paddle-shaped graters with handles and long, slender rasp graters both come in coarse, ribbon, and extra-fine rasp styles that allow you to grate everything from whole nutmeg and fresh ginger to the outermost layer of citrus peel. (The long, thin grater makes grating citrus zest especially easy—its slender shape allows you to draw the grater back and forth over a piece of citrus fruit, as if bowing a cello.)

A rotary grater, crank operated and cylindrical with a small chamber, makes quick work of grating chocolate for sprinkling over a finished dessert.

A conventional box grater has four sides with different-size holes for grating, shredding, and slicing. Generally, this kind of grater is best used in savory cooking, but the side with large holes can be used for grating carrots for carrot cake, and the smaller holes are suitable for finely grating chocolate, ginger, and citrus zest. Use the holes with pronged perforations for hard, dry ingredients like nutmeg.

When grating or slicing large amounts, the grater and slicer disks on a food processor are the quickest way to get the job done.

ice-cream maker

See page 452 in the Frozen Desserts chapter.

kitchen scale

Used by professional bakers, a kitchen scale is helpful for measuring ingredients by weight rather than volume, which helps ensure consistent results in the commercial kitchen. Avid home bakers use kitchen scales, too, for measuring dry ingredients like flour, cornmeal, chocolate, nuts, and brown sugar. (For a list of weight-volume equivalencies, see page 634). Mechanical scales start at about $20, digital scales at about $50. Both can weigh items up to about 11 pounds, and should be able to measure in ¼-ounce increments.

knives

Designed to last, stay sharp, and feel comfortable in the hand, good knives make cooking a pleasure. Because you’ll use them every day, it’s worth the extra cost to go for top-quality knives. Most top-tier, long-lasting knives are forged from a single piece of high-carbon stain-resistant steel.

A 6- or 8-inch chef’s knife is great for chopping nuts, fruit, and chocolate and for mincing fresh ginger.

A long, serrated bread knife is handy for halving cake layers, as well as for slicing Bundt cakes and pound cakes (a smaller serrated knife is good for cutting citrus and smaller cakes).

A paring knife serves well for peeling fruit, separating citrus pulp from pith, and mincing small quantities.

A long, thin-blade slicing knife works well for cutting rich cheesecakes and flourless chocolate cakes.

Ceramic knives have a following among some cooks. With a blade made of hard, high-tech ceramic, these knives come in 3- to 6-inch sizes and are ultrasharp—they can cut through an apple as if it were butter. Ceramic knives are also costly, prone to shattering if dropped on a hard surface, and require special equipment for both honing and sharpening.

To choose the knives that are right for you, visit a well-stocked kitchen supply store and try different models to figure out which design feels best in your hand.

loaf pans

Loaf pans come in metal, tempered glass, porcelain, and earthenware. Dimensions vary slightly depending on the manufacturer, but a full-size pan generally measures about 9×5 inches and is about 3 inches deep. Loaf pans are convenient for making quick breads, pound cakes, fruitcakes, and dessert terrines. At holiday time, miniature loaf pans are great for baking small, gift-size breads and cakes.

measuring cups

You’ll need both dry and liquid measuring cups.

Dry measuring cups are sold in sets of ¼-, ⅓-, ½- and 1-cup capacities. Sets that also include ⅔-cup and ¾-cup measures are available.

Liquid measuring cups are essential because they provide extra space at the top so the liquid won’t spill, and the pour spout makes it easy to add the liquid to a pot or mixing bowl. Look for ones that are made of heat-resistant glass with easy-to-read markings. You’ll use 1-, 2-, and 4-cup measuring cups most often; an 8-cup measure is a bonus when making larger quantities—and it can double as another mixing bowl.

measuring spoons

A basic set of measuring spoons, usually made of metal or plastic, includes ¼-, ½, and 1-teaspoon sizes, plus a 1-tablespoon size. Sets with ⅛-teaspoon and ½-tablespoon measures are also available. It’s well worth buying more than one set of measuring spoons if you do a lot of baking so that you don’t have to stop and clean spoons while making a cake or other dessert.

parchment paper

Ovenproof up to 420°F, parchment paper is often used to line baking sheets and cake pans. It’s helpful for removing cakes from pans after baking. Plus, it eliminates the need for a spatula when transferring cookies, crostatas, and scones from a baking sheet to a cooling rack—simply slide the paper off the baking sheet and onto the rack.

pastry bags

Use a pastry bag, which can be fitted with a variety of tips, both plain and star shaped, for piping icing, cookie doughs, and meringues. Made of washable plastic-coated cloth, traditional pastry bags are reusable, while disposable pastry bags, suitable for one use only, are made of clear plastic. Available at specialty cookware stores and in the baking section of some supermarkets, disposable bags are sturdy and cheap, and a boon to bakers who like using multiple colors of frosting for decorating cookies and cupcakes.

No pastry bag? No problem. In the Bon Appétit test kitchen, we often use a heavy-duty resealable plastic bag with a corner snipped off.

pastry blender

Made for mixing pastry, biscuit, or scone dough by hand, a pastry blender is used to cut cold pieces of butter into dry ingredients instead of using your fingertips (the heat from your hands can melt the butter and result in a less flaky pastry). This simple hand tool consists of five or six closely spaced semicircular blades or wires on one end and a handle on the other. If you don’t have a pastry blender, two table knives or a large fork would work, too, although it is not as convenient.

pastry brushes

Coating a pie crust with an egg glaze, brushing melted butter onto phyllo dough, buttering a Bundt pan, or brushing down the sides of a saucepan when making caramel—all of these jobs are most neatly done with a pastry brush. Brushes are available with natural or silicone bristles; both are effective for evenly applying egg washes and glazes. Silicone brushes are easier to clean, but some cooks prefer natural bristles when especially gentle brushing is required—such as when applying an egg wash to a yeast-raised dough that shouldn’t be compressed or spreading fruit glaze on top of a carefully arranged fruit tart.

pie dishes

Pie dishes come in diameters ranging from 8 to 10 inches, in glass, metal, and ceramic. In the Bon Appétit test kitchen, recipes are tested with glass pie dishes, so you’ll have the best results if you use the same. Avoid dark metal pans—they tend to brown what’s inside too quickly.

pie weights

When blind baking (baking a tart or pie crust before filling it), metal or ceramic pie weights prevent the dough from buckling and shrinking during baking. Dried beans can also serve as pie weights—and the beans are reusable.

pot holders & oven mitts

Look for thick pads or gloves made of moisture-resistant fabric or silicone. To protect your forearms when reaching into the oven, choose extra-long gloves.

roasting pan

A large, heavy-duty roasting pan that measures about 16×13×3 inches can hold a water bath for baking cheesecakes, molten chocolate cakes, custards, and puddings, or an ice bath to use for cooling dessert sauces like hot fudge, custard, and butterscotch sauce. A roasting pan is deeper than a simple baking dish, and has sturdy handles that make moving a water-filled pan in and out of the oven much easier.

rolling pins

Rolling pins come in a few different shapes and are available at well-stocked cookware stores and restaurant supply stores.

A straight rolling pin is the simplest and most versatile. This wood dowel is about 20 inches long and 1¾ inches in diameter. Because you push the pin with your hands directly on the dowel, monitoring the texture and thickness of the dough as you roll is easy. Silicone-coated nonstick versions of a straight rolling pin are also available.

A tapered rolling pin is more slender than a straight pin. Thanks to its curved profile, a tapered pin permits rolling a round of dough with minimum effort. Silicone versions are available.

A traditional rolling pin with handles and ball bearings can be helpful for rolling out very stiff doughs because of its heft. Traditional pins come in wood, metal, and silicone-coated versions. However, these rolling pins with handles generally aren’t as long as straight or tapered pins. Also, many bakers believe that using a rolling pin with handles on the sides puts distance between your hands and the dough, offering less opportunity to monitor the feel of the dough as you roll it out.

ruler

Keep an 18-inch ruler in the kitchen along with other hand tools. It’s handy for measuring the diameter of rolled-out pie crusts and puff pastry, and for checking the measurements of cake, tart, and pie pans in case the dimensions are not visibly marked on the pan.

A silicone pastry or baking mat with markings for various diameters of pie crust makes easy work of rolling out pastry dough. Some pastry mats are also marked with a numbered grid, which helps ensure precision when rolling out square and rectangular pieces of dough. Pastry mats are available from specialty cookware stores and online.

saucepans

Saucepans come in small (1 to 1½ quarts), medium (2 to 3 quarts), and large (3 to 4 quarts). In the dessert kitchen, they’re indispensable for making fruit compote, fudge sauce, and custard. When paired with a metal bowl, a saucepan makes a serviceable double boiler. A saucepan should feel heavy in your hand, with a snug lid and a handle that stays cool and is easy to grip. The best pans are made of a mix of materials. Effective heat-conducting metals like copper and aluminum are sandwiched between metals like anodized aluminum or stainless steel, which are hardy and don’t react with acidic ingredients like fruit. A saucepan with a stainless interior has the added advantage of being shiny enough to make color change easily visible—especially important when making caramel syrup and other preparations in which color change is an indicator of doneness.

sifter

We don’t use a sifter in the test kitchen. When dry goods need sifting, we use a strainer instead. In general, however, combining ingredients with a whisk aerates them sufficiently.

skillets

Skillets come in small (7 to 8 inches in diameter), medium (around 10 inches), and large (12 to 14 inches). Their shallow, sloping sides allow the most moisture to evaporate in the shortest amount of time. In the dessert kitchen, skillets come in handy for making small batches of preserves, for browning nuts, and for sautéing fresh fruit. A skillet should feel heavy in your hand, with a handle that stays cool and is easy to hold. Some large skillets have a loop handle on the opposite side from the long handle to ensure a good grip. The best skillets are made of a mix of materials. Effective heat-conducting metals like copper and aluminum are sandwiched between metals like anodized aluminum or stainless steel, which don’t react with acidic ingredients. Nonstick skillets are handy for sautéing fruit, but their dark interior can make it hard to see color change. Cast-iron skillets are the best choice for dishes that go from stovetop to oven.

spatulas

Spatulas come in solid or slotted versions and a variety of heat-resistant materials, including silicone and metal. The pancake-flipper style is especially useful for transferring cookies from a baking sheet to a cooling rack.

Icing spatulas in flat and offset (bent at a 90-degree angle) styles offer ease of maneuverability for icing cakes and cupcakes. They come in 1- to 2-inch widths.

Silicone spatulas come in many shapes and sizes. They’re great for stirring, folding, flipping crepes, and scraping doughs and batters off the bottom and sides of mixing bowls. In addition, silicone spatulas are flexible and easy to clean. Unlike the rubber variety, they’re heat resistant up to 800°F and come in a wide range of colors. Buy several silicone spatulas in different thicknesses, shapes, and sizes. Silicone spatulas with a scooped head are effective for spooning batter. Those that are curved on one side and flat on the other, with thin sides, are especially effective for folding mousses and angel food cake batters, as well as for scraping mixtures from the sides of a mixing bowl. A silicone spatula with a long, thin head is effective for scraping the last bits of puree from the bottom of a blender or jar.

spice grinders

An electric spice grinder makes quick work of pulverizing seeds and whole spices. A coffee grinder works, too, but get a separate one for spices so that the flavor of your morning brew isn’t affected. Using a mortar and pestle to grind spices has rustic appeal, though more time and muscle are required. Usually made of ceramic or marble, this time-honored two-piece grinder features a bowl-like mortar and a baton-like pestle.

springform pans

Springform pans have removable sides that seal shut with a spring-loaded latch. Making a cheesecake, mousse cake, or frozen dessert in a springform pan allows for especially easy removal of the pan sides at serving time. Springform pans come in several different sizes, but Bon Appétit recipes usually call for 9- or 10-inch-diameter pans.

strainers

Buy fine- and coarse-mesh strainers in a few different sizes. They’re indispensable for straining fruit purees, custard sauces, and freshly squeezed citrus juice. A coarse strainer does double duty as a sifter for sifting dry ingredients together, as well as for removing lumps from sugar and cocoa. Use a small strainer to dust cookies and cakes with powdered sugar.

tart & tartlet pans

Tart pans range in size from just a few inches across (for tartlets) to 11 inches wide. They can be round, rectangular, or square. The pan’s shallow depth and fluted edges give a professional pastry-shop look, and the removable bottom makes it easy to remove the tart from the pan.

testers

For testing the doneness of cakes, brownies, and scones, a thin bamboo skewer works well, as does a toothpick. You can also buy a cake tester, a thin steel skewer with a handle at one end.

thermometers, candy & instant-read

To check the doneness of caramels, syrups, candy mixtures, jams, and jellies, it’s critical to use a candy thermometer, also called a deep-fry thermometer. Get one that clips onto the side of the pan so that your hands are free for cooking. A candy thermometer is different from an instant-read thermometer, which is used to read the temperature of custards and butter. Many instant-read thermometers aren’t designed to withstand the high temperatures required for readings on sugar mixtures like dark caramel, which can get as hot as 380°F.

vegetable peeler

Choose a swivel-bladed peeler with a comfortable grip, which will offer the easiest maneuverability for removing the peel from fruits and for making chocolate curls.

whisks

A whisk’s sturdy wires help blend ingredients and also beat air into whatever you’re mixing. For combining dry ingredients and stirring sauces until smooth, use a standard whisk, which has a gently tapered profile. A balloon whisk, which is wider at the bottom than the top, is good for tasks that require aerating, such as whipping small amounts of cream by hand.

wooden spoons

Simple, heat resistant, and versatile, wooden spoons have countless uses. The spoons come with flat edges, angled edges, and, of course, curved bowls. They’re sturdy enough for softening butter and stirring thick doughs, batters, compotes, and sauces. The simple, dowel-like handle is easy to hold. And the wooden surface is less slick than a metal spoon’s, which makes it the tool of choice for stirring and softening thick ingredients, like buttery cookie doughs. Wooden spoons are inexpensive, so keep an assortment of sizes on hand.

techniques

the basics

Dessert preparation, like other kinds of cooking, comes with its own unique set of techniques,

whether whipping cream to soft peaks or creating the perfect custard. Some techniques may require a little more practice than others, but all are well within the reach of every home cook. Here we offer step-by-step guidance to the most widely used dessert techniques—those that you’ll use frequently throughout this book. In addition, you’ll find more specific instructions (how to frost cakes, for example, or how to prepare perfect pie crusts) within each chapter.

how to follow a recipe

Read through the entire recipe before measuring or preparing a single ingredient. This may sound obvious, but many cooks dive right in, only to discover that they are missing ingredients, have not allowed enough time for preparation or chilling, or don’t have the proper equipment on hand.

Pay special attention to the recipe headnote, which highlights useful information about the ingredients and techniques used in the recipe.

Ingredients are listed in the order that they are used in the recipe.

The French term mise en place means “setting in place”; in cooking, it refers to having all the ingredients prepped and ready to go—chocolate chopped, flour measured, strawberries hulled and sliced, etc. But, once again, read the recipe first before preparing the mise en place. You wouldn’t want to peel and slice peaches for a cheesecake topping, for example, only to find that they are added to the recipe after the cake has chilled overnight.

Cooking times will vary depending on individual ovens, pan variations, and other elements. Always set the timer for a few minutes less than the recipe calls for, just to be on the safe side. Once you find that your baking times are in sync with the times stated in the recipes, or that they routinely run a minute or two slower or faster, set your timer accordingly.

NOTE: Baking is the most exacting form of cooking; even minor changes to a recipe can make a dramatic difference in the results. Therefore, we suggest that you do not make substitutions beyond what may be recommended in the recipe or headnote. Or, prepare the recipe at least once as written, then experiment with your own variations.

butter, browning

Brown butter, or beurre noisette, refers to butter that has been melted and cooked until golden brown. Browning—not burning—the butter over medium-low heat cooks the milk solids in the butter, thus intensifying the butter flavor. This is a classic French technique that adds a full, nutty, buttery flavor to foods. Here’s how to do it.

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat.

Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter is browned to the desired color indicated in the recipe. The length of time will vary depending on the amount of butter. Remove from heat.

buttering & flouring a pan

Thoroughly buttering a baking pan and then coating it with a light layer of flour is the best way to ensure that your finished dessert releases from the pan completely.

Using a pastry brush or clean fingers, coat the inside surface of the baking pan thoroughly with softened butter, making sure to cover all surfaces and reaching into corners and grooves.

Sprinkle the pan with about 2 tablespoons of flour [1].

Tilt and tap the pan gently to coat all surfaces with flour [2].

Invert the pan and tap out any excess flour.

butter & sugar, creaming

Beating sugar and butter until fluffy is called “creaming.” This step is important, as it incorporates air into the final product.

Make sure the butter is at room temperature and soft so that it creams properly with the sugar. If your butter is cold and firm, you can cut it into slices and microwave it on low for a few seconds (be sure not to melt the butter). The butter should be soft enough that you can easily press your finger into it and leave a distinct mark.

Beat butter and sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy. This is easiest with an electric mixer, but can be done by hand with a wooden spoon.

The butter and sugar mixture should have the consistency of fluffy frosting and should be very pale in color.

caramel

Making caramel takes some practice. First make sure you have the right equipment, then follow the recipe directions precisely—and be very careful when working with hot caramel. If you’re new to making caramel, keep in mind these tips:

Use a heavy-duty nonreactive pan with a secure handle and a shiny or light-colored interior. Heavy-duty pans ensure even heat. A secure grip helps keep the pan under control (getting burned by hot sugar is no fun). And a pan with a reflective (not dark) interior makes color changes easy to see.

Dissolve the sugar in the liquid according to the recipe directions. To make sure the sugar is totally dissolved, dip a spoon in, then rub a drop of the syrup between your thumb and finger (the syrup will still be cool enough to touch at this point). If you feel grainy bits, keep stirring over low heat. If not, continue with the recipe.

Brush down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush to dissolve any sugar crystals. Otherwise, the finished caramel may have a grainy texture.

As soon as the syrup in the pan turns golden, the difference between light, medium, and dark caramel occurs in a matter of seconds. What’s in the pan is much too hot to taste safely and could burn you badly. Instead, rely on visual cues or a candy thermometer:Color: Light amberTemperature: 330°F to 340°FFlavor: MildColor: Medium amberTemperature: 355°F to 360°FFlavor: Distinctively roastyColor: Dark amberTemperature: 375°F to 380°FFlavor: Intense, with an almost bitter edge

If you’re adding cream (or other ingredients), stand back—the hot caramel syrup will bubble vigorously and could burn you.

chocolate, melting

Always chop chocolate to ensure even melting: Score lines in the chocolate with a large sharp knife; the pieces should be no larger than a half inch. Press a knife firmly with the heel of your hand along the score lines to chop.

Place the chopped chocolate in a metal bowl set over barely simmering water.

Stir the chocolate constantly; it can burn easily. A silicone spatula works well because the silicone will not impart any off flavors to the chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is smooth.

When melting chocolate with other ingredients, such as butter or cream, use a heavy saucepan over low heat and stir the mixture constantly.

chocolate curls

Chocolate curls lend a festive finish to all kinds of desserts, from simple cupcakes to sophisticated mousses. And they are incredibly easy to make.

Set a large chunk or bar of chocolate in a warm place to soften slightly (but not melt). Or gently warm chocolate in a microwave oven: Place the chocolate on a paper towel and heat it on the lowest setting at 5-second intervals until just warm.

Working over a sheet of waxed paper, firmly grasp the chocolate in one hand and, using a sharp vegetable peeler, shave curls from the chocolate onto the waxed paper. (If the chocolate breaks into small pieces, it is probably too cold.)

Use the waxed paper to transfer the chocolate curls: Lift the edges of the paper and carefully slide the chocolate curls and shavings onto the dessert or into an airtight plastic container. Store chocolate curls in a cool, dry place for up to a week.

chocolate leaves

Chocolate leaves are an elegant way to decorate cakes, mousses, and cheesecakes.

Select semirigid, waxy, nontoxic leaves. Camellia or citrus leaves, particularly lemon leaves, work well.

Line a large baking sheet with foil or waxed paper.

Using a small offset spatula or small brush, coat the back of a leaf with a thin, even layer of melted chocolate, about inch thick, being careful not to let the chocolate drip over the edge of the leaf [1]. Transfer the leaf to the baking sheet.

Repeat the process, making as many leaves as desired.

Refrigerate or freeze the leaves until firm.

Grasp the stem end of the leaf with your fingertips or tweezers and carefully peel it away from the chocolate [2]. Store the leaves in the refrigerator in a single layer in a waxed paper-lined sealable plastic container. Handle the leaves as little as possible; the heat from your fingers will melt and mar the delicate chocolate.

cream, whipping

Beat chilled whipping cream (taken directly from the refrigerator) in a large bowl. To get the best texture and volume from whipped cream, be sure that the bowl and beaters are chilled as well.

If whipping by hand, use a large balloon whisk and whisk the cream until desired peaks form.

If using an electric mixer:

Begin whipping the cream at medium-high speed, then reduce the speed to low as soon as the cream begins to thicken.

Continue to whip the cream until desired peaks form.

Do not overbeat the cream; overwhipped cream will break and curdle—meaning that the dairy fat will separate from the liquid, forming small clumps of butter.

Sweeten and flavor whipped cream to your taste: Use honey, maple syrup, agave nectar, powdered sugar, or brown sugar in place of granulated sugar, if you like, and flavor with citrus zests, spices, liqueurs, and extracts.

When is cream whipped enough?• When serving whipped cream as a garnish, whip it just until it thickens and forms loose peaks when the beaters are lifted.• When using it as a frosting or in a mousse, whip the cream to medium peaks. (It will continue to thicken as it’s used.)• For piping, whip the cream until firmer peaks form.

custard, crème anglaise, or ice-cream base

Here’s how to make crème anglaise or a stirred custard for ice cream without curdling the eggs.

Bring the cream or milk mixture to a simmer in a heavy saucepan.

Whisk the egg yolk and sugar mixture in a large bowl until very well blended.

Gradually beat the hot milk or cream mixture into the egg-yolk mixture.

Return the custard mixture to the saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon or a silicone spatula over the heat level indicated in the recipe, just until thickened. Be very careful not to allow the custard to boil, as boiling will cause the eggs to curdle (which is basically scrambling).

It is fairly easy to judge with your eye whether the custard is properly cooked—it will thicken slightly and your finger will leave a path on the back of a spoon when drawn across it [1]—but it is safest to use an instant-read thermometer. Cook the custard to 170°F to ensure proper thickening and to avoid curdling.

Once the custard reaches the proper temperature, immediately remove it from the heat and transfer to a large bowl.

custard, zabaglione

Zabaglione (in Italian) or sabayon (in French) is a traditional custard preparation made by whisking egg yolks with sugar and liquid (usually wine) over a double boiler until light and fluffy. The beating is done over simmering water so that the egg yolks cook as they thicken into a light, foamy custard.

Select a metal bowl that fits above a medium-size saucepan so that the bulk of the bowl sits over the water (but does not touch the water) and does not come into direct contact with the heat from the sides of the saucepan.

Using a large wire whisk, beat vigorously and continuously until an instant-read thermometer reads 160°F

Remove the bowl from over the water as soon as the zabaglione is cooked.

eggs, separating

Break the egg open by striking it against the edge of a bowl.

Carefully open the egg by pulling the top half of the shell from the bottom, making sure that the bottom half forms a cup that holds the egg yolk.

Let the egg white drain from the eggshell into the bowl. If necessary, pass the egg yolk carefully from one half of the eggshell to the other to remove all of the egg white.

egg whites, beating

Egg whites will increase eight times in volume as you beat them. To ensure that they don’t lose volume, only beat the egg whites once all of your other ingredients are ready, your pan is prepared, and your oven is preheated.

Choose a large deep stainless steel, copper, or glass bowl. Do not use aluminum, as it will turn egg whites gray. Make sure the bowl is clean and dry.

Using the wire whip attachment of an electric mixer or a large balloon whisk, beat the egg whites without stopping until they form soft peaks [1] or firm peaks [2], according to the recipe instructions. Make sure not to overbeat them (egg whites can become dry and grainy).

folding

Folding refers to the blending of two ingredients (usually including whipped cream or whipped egg whites) without stirring, so as not to deflate, or remove air from, the mixture.

Carefully draw a rubber spatula down [1] and across the ingredients in a large bowl toward the edge of the bowl, pulling the ingredients from the bottom and folding them over the top of the mixture [2].

Repeat the process just until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, being careful to work quickly but gently.

fruit, preparing

How to: dice a mango

Stand the mango on one end with a tapered side toward you. Slice off each long side, cutting as close to the pit as possible.

With the tip of a knife, cut a crosshatch pattern in the flesh of each section, cutting down to (but not through) the skin [1].

Press on the back of the skin on each section, turning it inside out so that the flesh pops up. Cut the cubes off the skin with a knife [2].

Slice any remaining flesh off the pit, then dice.

How to: grate citrus peel

Use a very sharp handheld grater. Hold the citrus firmly in one hand and draw the grater across the surface of the fruit to remove just the colored surface of the peel, not the white pith, which is bitter.

Continue turning the fruit and grating the peel until the peel is removed or you have the amount called for in the recipe.

How to: remove citrus peel (zest)

For long, thin strips of peel, remove the outer layer of the peel (not the white pith) with a vegetable peeler.

Trim the peel or thinly slice the peel according to the recipe instructions.

How to: segment citrus fruit

Citrus sections without any peel, pith, or membrane are called “supremes.”

Use a thin knife to cut off the stem end of the fruit, just to the point of exposing the flesh. Cut off the opposite end [1].

Place the fruit, cut side down, on the work surface and cut away the peel and pith while following the contour of the flesh [2].

Place the citrus on its side and cut carefully between the membranes to release the segments [3].

How to: peel peaches

Bring a large saucepan of water to boil.

Using a small sharp knife, mark an X on the bottom of each peach.

Using a slotted spoon, gently lower the peaches into the boiling water and blanch (cook briefly) for 30 seconds.

Transfer the peaches to a strainer and rinse under cold water, or plunge into a bowl of ice water to cool.

Slip the skins off the peaches with your fingertips.

EVEN EASIER: Purchase a serrated peeler, which makes quick work of peeling fresh peaches and eliminates the need for blanching. Serrated peelers are available at many supermarkets and at kitchen supply stores.

How to: peel pineapple

Using a long serrated knife, cut off the leafy top end of the pineapple first, then cut off the base.

Stand the bottom of the pineapple on the cutting board. Starting at the top of the fruit, cut away the skin, following the contour of the fruit.

Using a small paring knife or the gouging end of a vegetable peeler, remove any remaining brown eyes from the flesh.

ice cream, softening

Let ice cream stand at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes, until it is easy to scoop and serve.

Alternatively, place the ice-cream carton in the microwave and heat on low power at 10-second intervals until it is soft enough to scoop.

make your own …

Baking powder: Whisk 2 tablespoons cream of tartar with 1 tablespoon baking soda and 1½ tablespoons cornstarch; make sure mixture is well blended.

Crème fraîche: Combine 1 cup heavy whipping cream and 2 tablespoons buttermilk in a glass container. Cover and let stand at room temperature until thickened, 8 to 24 hours. Stir well and chill until serving time.

Greek-style yogurt: Place regular yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a large bowl. Cover and chill overnight to drain (the yogurt will thicken).

Mascarpone cheese: Blend 8 ounces cream cheese with ¼ cup whipping cream and 2½ tablespoons sour cream.

Self-rising flour: Add 1½ teaspoons baking powder and ¼ teaspoon salt to 1 cup all purpose flour to equal 1 cup of self-rising flour.

measuring flour

It is critically important to measure flour properly when baking—even a tablespoon or so too many or too few can alter a recipe’s results.

Today’s supermarket flour is pre-sifted, so unless a recipe calls for flour to be sifted before measuring, it is not necessary to do so.

Use a large spoon to stir the flour in the bag or canister to loosen.

Dip the measuring cup into the flour, then use a knife to level the flour in the measuring cup, using a sweeping motion so as not to compress the flour.

measuring by weight

For greater precision, many experienced bakers prefer to measure their ingredients by weight rather than by volume. Here are the weight equivalencies for 1 cup of the most commonly used dry ingredients:

All purpose flour = 4½ ounces

Cake flour = 4 ounces

Whole wheat flour = 5 ounces

Granulated sugar = 7 ounces

Firmly packed brown sugar = 7½ ounces

Powdered sugar = 4 ounces

Cornmeal (regular) = 5½ ounces

measuring liquid ingredients

Use a glass measuring cup with the measurements marked on the side.

Set the cup on a flat counter or surface to fill.

Wait for the liquid to settle, then bend down and read the measurement at eye level for accuracy.

nuts, toasting

Toasting nuts brings out an incredible fragrance and flavor, so you should never skip this step in a recipe: What you might save in time you’ll lose in the quality of the final product.

Preheat the oven to 350°F

Arrange the nuts in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet.

Toast the nuts in the oven until slightly darker in color and fragrant. Always cool nuts completely before using them in recipes. Cooking times vary depending on the kind of nuts you’re using:Almonds, sliced: 7 to 10 minutesAlmonds, slivered: 7 to 10 minutesAlmonds, whole: 10 minutesHazelnuts*: 12 to 15 minutesPecans: 12 to 15 minutesPine nuts**Walnuts: 10 to 15 minutes

* Some recipes call for removing the skin of (or “husking”) hazelnuts. After toasting and cooling the hazelnuts slightly, transfer them to the center of a clean dishtowel spread out on a work surface. Gather the towel around the nuts and rub to remove skins (some bits of skin will remain, which is fine).** Because of their high fat content, pine nuts burn very easily. It’s best to toast them on the stovetop, where browning can be monitored. Stir pine nuts in a large heavy skillet over medium heat until they just begin to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Remove the nuts from the heat and continue stirring until they’re almost cool, to avoid burning.

pastry dough textures

Bon Appétit pie crust and pastry dough recipes use visual descriptions to indicate what the dough should look like at various stages. When first combining the dry ingredients with the fat, the instructions generally say to mix the ingredients until “pea-size pieces” form [1] or until the mixture resembles “coarse meal” [2]. After adding liquid, instructions often say to combine “until moist clumps form” [3].

piping

Decorative piping gives desserts a beautiful bakery-window look—but it’s easier than you’d think. If piping whipped cream, use a large pastry bag fitted with a medium or large star tip. For frostings and buttercream, use desired piping tip and a medium-size pastry bag. (See page 23 for more information on pastry bags.)

Insert the tip into the small end of the bag. Place the bag, tip side down, in a tumbler or a large measuring cup for support (this way, both of your hands are free to fill the bag). Fold the top of the bag over the rim of the tumbler like a cuff so that it stays clean while you fill it with cream or frosting.

Using a large silicone spatula, scoop the whipped cream or frosting into the bag [1]. After the bag is filled, uncuff it from over the tumbler, grab it by the top edge, and shake it gently to release any air pockets and settle the contents.

Twist the top of the bag just above the point where it’s filled. Hold the twist firmly and squeeze to push out a bit of frosting.

Holding the twisted end of the bag closed with one hand, use the other hand to direct the piping tip while applying gentle pressure with the hand at the twisted end [2]. Practice on a clean plate before piping onto the dessert.

vanilla bean, seeding

Place the vanilla bean on a cutting board.

Using a small, sharp knife, slice the pod in half lengthwise, from the stem end to the opposite end [1].

Grasp one end of half of the pod and, using the same knife, scrape down the length of the split pod to remove the tiny, moist seeds [2].

Repeat with the remaining half of the vanilla bean.

Don’t let those leftover vanilla beans go to waste. After you scrape out the seeds, turn the leftover pods into vanilla sugar—it’s great in baked goods or stirred into your morning cup of coffee or tea.

First, dry the pods well, then chop them coarsely.

Blend 3 cups sugar with the pods in a food processor until the pods are finely ground.

Store the vanilla sugar in a covered container at room temperature for at least 2 days and up to a year.

Strain the vanilla sugar through a fine strainer before using.

cakes

pound, angel, bundt & coffee cakes

Classic Pound Cake

Deep Chocolate Pound Cake

Hot Fudge-Banana Pound Cake

Cornmeal Pound Cake with Rosemary Syrup, Poached Pears, and Candied Rosemary

Kumquat-Cardamom Tea Bread

Vanilla Chiffon Cake

Angel Food Cake with Strawberry-Blueberry Sauce

Orange- and Vanilla-Scented Bundt Cake

Apple-Spice Cake with Brown Sugar Glaze

Maple-Walnut Pound Cake with Maple Glaze

Coconut Bundt Cake with Powdered Sugar Glaze

Raspberry-Yogurt Cake

Almond Butter Crown

Chocolate-Apricot Kugelhopf

Blueberry Coffee Cake

Spiced Crumble Cake with Chocolate Frosting

Sour Cream-Orange Coffee Cake with Chocolate-Pecan Streusel

Poppy Seed Coffee Cake with Cardamom Streusel

Raisin Streusel Cake

Cherry-Vanilla Tea Cake with Vanilla Sugar

Chocolate Chip Coffee Cake

Chocolate-Pecan Coffee Cake

single-layer cakes

Texas Sheet Cake

Carrot Cake with Buttermilk Glaze and Cinnamon-Cream Cheese Frosting

Parsnip Spice Cake with Ginger-Cream Cheese Frosting

Glazed Lime Cake

Double-Ginger Gingerbread with Orange-Ginger Sauce

Cranberry-Maple Pudding Cake

Apple-Cornmeal Upside-Down Cake

Caramel-Walnut Upside-Down Banana Cake

Plum-Blueberry Upside-Down Cake

Pineapple Upside-Down Pumpkin Gingerbread

Upside-Down Spiced Peach Cake with Honey-Sweetened Whipped Cream

Brown Sugar-Almond Cake with Caramel Frosting

Walnut-Orange Cake

Cinnamon-Sugar Plum Cake

Raspberry Cake with Marsala, Crème Fraîche, and Raspberries

Tarte au Sucre

Chocolate Decadence

Chocolate-Pistachio Torte with Warm Chocolate Ganache

Chocolate Gâteau with Lemon, Raisins, Almonds, and Muscat Custard Sauce

layer cakes

Semisweet Chocolate Layer Cake with Vanilla Cream Filling

Black Bottom Devil’s Food Cake

Devil’s Food Cake with Chocolate-Orange Buttercream Frosting

Chocolate Stout Cake

Cappuccino-Chocolate Layer Cake

Chocolate Cake with Fleur de Sel-Caramel Filling

Chocolate Cake with Caramel-Coconut-Almond Filling

Black Pearl Layer Cake

Chocolate-Peanut Butter Cake with Cream Cheese and Butterfinger Frosting

Coconut-Chocolate Marjolaine

Pecan Praline Cake

Raspberry-Whipped Cream Truffle Cake

Sour Cream Layer Cake with Pecan Brittle

Tres Leches Cake

Banana Layer Cake with Caramel Cream and Sea Salt-Roasted Pecans

Triple-Ginger Layer Cake

Ginger-Lime Coconut Cake with Marshmallow Frosting

Gingerbread Layer Cake with Candied Kumquats

Apple Cake with Maple-Walnut Cream Cheese Frosting

Pumpkin Spice Layer Cake with Caramel-Cream Cheese Frosting

Cranberry-Glazed Orange Layer Cake

Coffee, Hazelnut, and Raspberry Torte

Hazelnut Crunch Cake with Honeyed Kumquats

Apricot-Pistachio Torte with Honey Buttercream

Lemon and Pistachio Praline Meringue Torte

Maple Crunch Layer Cake

Marzipan-Topped Strawberry Layer Cake

Red Velvet Cake with Raspberries and Blueberries

Chocolate Panna Cotta Layer Cake

small cakes & cupcakes

Winter-Spiced Molten Chocolate Cakes with Rum-Ginger Ice Cream

Chocolate-Mint Pudding Cakes

Warm Lemon Pudding Cakes with Marbled Raspberry Cream

Hot-Milk Cakes with Strawberries and Cream

Devil’s Food Cupcakes with Chocolate Frosting

Vanilla Cupcakes with Vanilla Frosting

Banana-Chocolate Chunk Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting

Lemon-Raspberry Cupcakes

Coconut Cupcakes

Key Lime Cupcakes

Pumpkin Cupcakes

White Chocolate Cupcakes with Candied Kumquats

special-occasion cakes

Chocolate Fudge Torte

Chocolate, Walnut, and Prune Fudge Torte

Raspberry Ganache Marjolaine

Halloween Candy Cake

Chocolate Heart Layer Cake with Chocolate-Cinnamon Mousse

Tiered Almond Cake with Mixed Berries and White Chocolate-Cream Cheese Frosting

Tiramisù Wedding Cake with Mixed Berries

White Chocolate and Lemon Wedding Cake

Triple-Chocolate Celebration Cake

Spiced Chocolate Torte Wrapped in Chocolate Ribbons

The Ultimate Valentine Cake

Gingerbread Roulade with Caramel and Glacéed Fruits

White Chocolate, Almond, and Apricot Roulade

Black Forest Boule-de-Neige

Cranberry-Chocolate Soufflé Cake

Chocolate, Orange, and Macadamia Bûche de Noël

Chocolate Fruitcake

Gingerbread Christmas Pudding with Orange Hard Sauce

Steamed Cranberry-Marmalade Pudding with Grand Marnier Hard Sauce Rosettes

Classic Pound Cake

Originally made with a pound each of eggs, flour, butter, and sugar, this cake has been an American and British staple for more than 200 years. Over time, cooks have tweaked the recipe by adjusting the original proportions; adding leavening, such as baking powder, and liquids, like sour cream or milk; and incorporating all kinds of flavorings, from vanilla to chocolate. Yet it remains a classically simple and delicious treat. 8 to 10 servings

1¾ cups unbleached all purpose flour

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1½ cups sugar

3 large eggs

1¼ teaspoons vanilla extract

¼ cup whole milk

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 9×5×3-inch metal loaf pan. Whisk flour and salt in medium bowl to blend. Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until fluffy. Gradually add sugar, beating until blended well. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, occasionally scraping down sides of bowl. Beat in vanilla. Beat in half of flour mixture, then milk, then remaining flour mixture. Spread batter evenly in prepared pan.

Bake cake until golden and tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Cool cake in pan 10 minutes. Cut around pan sides to loosen cake. Turn cake out onto rack. Turn right side up and cool completely.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Wrap in foil and store at room temperature.

Deep Chocolate Pound Cake

Mixing boiling water into the cocoa powder is the key to creating a deep chocolate flavor: This melts the cocoa butter and disperses the cocoa through-out the batter. Adding mini chocolate chips that melt into the cake intensifies the flavor even more. Cut any leftover cake into cubes and layer it in glasses with sweetened whipped cream, fresh raspberries, and a touch of chocolate sauce for pretty individual trifles. 8 servings

2¼ cups unbleached all purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

¾ teaspoon coarse kosher salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

½ cup sour cream

½ cup whole milk

¼ cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder

¼ cup honey

2 tablespoons boiling water

¾ cup sugar

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup mini semisweet chocolate chips

Position rack in center of oven; preheat to 350°F. Butter and flour 9×5×3-inch metal loaf pan; tap out excess flour.

Whisk flour, baking powder, coarse salt, and baking soda in medium bowl. Whisk sour cream and milk in small bowl.

Sift cocoa into another small bowl. Whisk in honey and 2 tablespoons boiling water until smooth. Cool completely.

Using electric mixer, beat sugar and butter in another medium bowl until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, occasionally scraping down sides of bowl. Beat in vanilla. Add cooled cocoa mixture; stir until smooth, occasionally scraping down bowl. Beat in flour mixture alternately with sour cream mixture in 2 additions each until just blended. Stir in chocolate chips.

Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top. Bake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 1 hour 8 minutes. Remove cake from pan and cool.

Hot Fudge-Banana Pound Cake

Here, the banana split is re-created in pound cake form, served with chocolate sauce, vanilla ice cream, and banana slices. The cake needs to stand at room temperature overnight before serving. 10 servings

Sauce

1½ cups heavy whipping cream

1½ cups sugar

6 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons light corn syrupLarge pinch of salt

¾ teaspoon vanilla extract

Cake

2 cups sifted unbleached all purpose flour (sifted, then measured)

1 teaspoon baking powder

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup (about 2 large) mashed very ripe bananas

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1¼ cups sugar

4 large eggs, room temperature

Vanilla ice creamFresh banana slices (optional)

SAUCE: Stir cream, sugar, chocolate, butter, corn syrup, and salt in heavy medium saucepan over low heat until chocolate melts. Increase heat to medium and bring to boil, stirring occasionally. Boil until reduced to 2¾ cups, stirring constantly, about 6 minutes. Cool; mix in vanilla. Set sauce aside.

CAKE: Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Lightly butter 9×5×3-inch metal loaf pan. Line pan with waxed paper, leaving ½-inch overhang. Sift flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda into medium bowl. Blend mashed banana and lemon juice in small bowl. Using electric mixer, beat butter and sugar in large bowl until fluffy. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Using rubber spatula, mix in dry ingredients alternately with banana mixture, beginning and ending with dry ingredients.

Heat sauce until just slightly warm, stirring often. Spoon ⅓ of batter into prepared pan. Drizzle ⅓ cup sauce over and spread gently to within ½ inch of pan edge. Repeat with another layer of batter and sauce. Top with remaining batter. Run small sharp knife through cake in zigzag motion to swirl sauce slightly.

Bake cake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Cool in pan on rack 30 minutes. Turn cake out onto rack. Peel off paper and cool completely. Wrap cake in foil and store overnight at room temperature. Cover and chill remaining sauce.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Let cake stand at room temperature.

Rewarm sauce. Cut cake crosswise into ¾-inch-thick slices. Top each with scoop of ice cream. Spoon warm sauce over. Garnish with fresh banana slices, if desired, and serve.

Cornmeal Pound Cake with Rosemary Syrup, Poached Pears, and Candied Rosemary

Rosemary is typically used in savory dishes, but here it flavors a sweet syrup that plays off the pears, turning a humble pound cake into a sophisticated dessert. The rosemary syrup is also delicious in a cup of tea; candied rosemary makes a perfect decoration for a holiday Yule log. 8 servings

Pears

3 cups water

2 cups sugar

1 cup dry or off-dry Riesling

3 fresh rosemary sprigs

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

¼ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

8 Forelle pears or other small pears, peeled, stems left intact

Pound Cake

1 cup unbleached all purpose flour

1 cup yellow cornmeal

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1⅓ cups sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

5 large eggs, beaten to blend in medium bowl

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Syrup and Candied Rosemary

1 cup sugar

½ cup water

8 4-inch-long fresh rosemary sprigsSuperfine sugar

PEARS: Combine 3 cups water, sugar, Riesling, rosemary, vanilla bean, and peppercorns in heavy large saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Add pears and bring syrup to boil, turning pears occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until pears are tender, about 20 minutes. Chill pears uncovered in syrup until cold, at least 3 hours.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled.

POUND CAKE: Preheat oven to 325°F. Butter and flour 9×5×3-inch metal loaf pan. Whisk flour and cornmeal in medium bowl to blend. Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until light and fluffy. Gradually beat in sugar, then salt. Drizzle in beaten eggs by tablespoonfuls, beating constantly, then beat in vanilla. Add dry ingredients in 3 additions, beating just to blend after each addition. Transfer batter to prepared pan.

Bake cake until brown on top and tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Cool cake in pan 15 minutes. Turn cake out onto rack and cool completely.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Wrap in foil and store at room temperature.

SYRUP AND CANDIED ROSEMARY: Bring 1 cup sugar and ½ cup water to simmer in medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Add rosemary. Simmer until syrup reduces slightly, swirling pan occasionally, about 5 minutes. Using tongs, transfer rosemary sprigs to rack and drain. Cover and reserve rosemary syrup.

Pour superfine sugar into shallow bowl. Add drained rosemary sprigs to sugar, 1 at a time, turning to coat thickly. Place on paper towels. Dry at least 1 hour.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Let sprigs and syrup stand at room temperature.

Cut dark ends off cake. Cut eight ½- to ¾-inch-thick cake slices. Cut each slice diagonally in half. Arrange 2 halves on each plate. Drain pears. Stand 1 pear on each plate. Drizzle each dessert with reserved rosemary syrup and garnish with candied rosemary sprig. Serve, passing remaining rosemary syrup separately.

Kumquat-Cardamom Tea Bread

This recipe makes two tea breads—keep one and give the other as a gift. Since the pale orange-colored kumquat icing adorning the bread is so pretty, just place the bread in a clear cellophane bag, available at some kitchen-supply stores, then tie on a bow. A touch of instant iced tea powder adds an intriguingly subtle flavor, but it is optional. Makes 2 loaves

2 cups stemmed, quartered, seeded kumquats; plus 2 kumquats, sliced thinlyNonstick vegetable oil spray

3 cups unbleached all purpose flour

2 teaspoons instant iced tea powder (optional)

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt, divided 1¼ cups sugar

¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon corn oil

3 large eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 8-ounce can crushed pineapple in juice

1 cup walnuts, toasted, chopped

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

3 cups powdered sugar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Place quartered kumquats in processor; puree 3 minutes. Measure ⅓ cup puree for glaze; set aside.

Position rack in center of oven; preheat to 350°F. Spray two 8½×4½×2½-inch metal loaf pans with nonstick spray. Combine flour, tea powder (if using), baking powder, baking soda, cardamom, and 1½ teaspoons coarse salt in medium bowl; whisk to blend. Using electric mixer, blend 1¼ cups sugar and oil in large bowl. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, then vanilla, ⅔ cup kumquat puree, and pineapple with juice. Gradually add dry ingredients, beating just until blended. Fold in walnuts. Divide batter between prepared pans.

Bake cakes until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Cool in pans on rack 5 minutes. Turn cakes out. Place cakes, top side up, on rack and cool.

Place reserved ⅓ cup kumquat puree in large bowl. Whisk in butter, powdered sugar, lemon juice, and remaining ½ teaspoon coarse salt. Spread glaze over cakes. Top with kumquat slices. Let stand until icing sets.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Wrap in foil; store at room temperature.

Cakes: Art And ScienceThe most basic ingredients in cakes—sugar, butter or vegetable oil, eggs, and flour—perform critical functions. Knowing their roles helps explain why precise measurements are so important in baking.Sugar sweetens cakes, of course, but it also tenderizes them and helps keep them moist. Sugar also helps brown cake crusts.Butter and vegetable oil moisten and tenderize cakes. Vegetable oil actually moistens cakes better than butter, but butter provides more flavor. When butter is creamed with sugar, it traps air bubbles that help leaven cakes.Eggs provide the protein that holds cakes together. Egg whites help cakes rise and have a drying effect that prevents cakes from becoming too soggy. Egg yolks help emulsify large quantities of sugar, butter, and liquids, which produces very moist cakes.Flour provides bulk and starch to hold the cake together.

Vanilla Chiffon Cake

When the chiffon cake was developed in the 1920s, it was an instant sensation. Using oil instead of butter and adding beaten egg whites result in an airy yet moist cake. Tropical fruits like mango, papaya, and pineapple would be a colorful and refreshing springtime garnish for this light cake, which is perfect for Passover. Serve it with the Rich Chocolate Sorbet (page 464). 8 servings

1½ cups sugar, divided

½ cup matzo cake meal

½ cup potato starch

1½ vanilla beans, chopped

½ teaspoon coarse kosher salt

7 large eggs, separated, room temperature

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons brandy

Preheat oven to 350°F. Blend ½ cup sugar, matzo cake meal, potato starch, vanilla beans, and coarse salt in processor until beans are finely chopped. Sift mixture into small bowl; discard beans in sieve.

Using electric mixer, beat egg whites in large bowl until medium-firm peaks form. Gradually add ¾ cup sugar, beating until stiff but not dry. Using same beaters, beat egg yolks and remaining ¼ cup sugar in another bowl until thick, about 5 minutes. Gradually beat in oil, then brandy. Beat in matzo mixture. Fold in egg white mixture in 3 additions.

Transfer batter to ungreased 10-inch-diameter angel food cake pan with removable bottom. Bake until tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 37 minutes. Immediately invert center tube of pan over neck of narrow bottle and cool cake completely.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover cake in pan.

Using sharp knife, cut around sides of pan and center tube to loosen cake. Holding center tube, lift cake from pan sides. Cut cake free from pan bottom. Turn cake out onto plate. Using serrated knife, cut cake into wedges.Ingredient Tip: Potato StarchUsing potato starch is a great way to add tenderness to baked goods, and it’s kosher for Passover. You’ll find it in the kosher foods section and baking aisle of the supermarket, as well as at online baking sites.

The Secret to Tender CakesThe secret is in the flour and the mixing, both of which determine the amount of gluten in a cake. Too much gluten makes cakes tough. To ensure that your cake is tender:USE THE RIGHT FLOUR. The more protein a flour has, the more gluten it can produce, so all purpose flour and cake flour are best. Cake flour has slightly less protein and creates an especially fine-textured cake. However, don’t be tempted to use it in place of all purpose flour in a recipe. The two flours are not interchangeable; using cake flour when all purpose is called for can actually create a cake that’s too tender and falls apart.MIX BRIEFLY. Because mixing develops the gluten, don’t overmix your batter once the flour is added. Mix just enough to incorporate the dry ingredients. This rule applies to cookie doughs, as well.

Angel Food Cake with Strawberry-Blueberry Sauce

Both the cake and the sauce can be prepared a day ahead. Let the cake stand at room temperature, and chill the sauce in a sealed container. It’s important not to grease the cake pan when making an angel food cake, or the cake may not rise properly. 10 to 12 servings

Sauce

2 12-ounce containers strawberries, hulled

1 12-ounce container blueberries

⅓ cup sugar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

¼ cup amaretto

Cake

1¼ cups sifted cake flour (sifted, then measured)

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon almond extract

14 large egg whites, room temperature

1½ teaspoons cream of tartar

½ teaspoon salt

1⅔ cups sugar

Whole strawberries (optional)

SAUCE: Place half of strawberries in medium bowl. Crush with fork or potato masher. Slice remaining strawberries and add to bowl. Add half of blueberries to same bowl. Place remaining blueberries in medium saucepan and crush; add sugar and lemon juice. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves and juices become syrupy, about 4 minutes. Cool. Add to strawberry mixture. Stir in amaretto. Let stand 20 minutes.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.

CAKE: Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 300°F. Sift sifted flour into medium bowl. Combine vanilla, lemon juice, and almond extract in small bowl. Using electric mixer, beat egg whites in large bowl at medium speed until frothy. Add cream of tartar and salt and beat until soft peaks form. Add sugar ⅓ cup at a time and continue to beat until whites are stiff but not dry. Fold in vanilla mixture. Sift flour over in 4 batches, gently folding in each addition.

Spoon batter into ungreased 10-inch-diameter angel food cake pan with removable bottom. Bake until top of cake is golden brown and springy to touch, about 1 hour 10 minutes. Immediately invert center tube of cake pan over neck of narrow bottle and cool cake completely. Using sharp knife, cut around sides of pan and center tube to loosen cake. Holding center tube, lift cake from pan sides. Cut cake free from pan bottom. Turn cake out onto plate.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover and let stand at room temperature.

Using serrated knife, cut cake into wedges. Place on plates. Spoon berry sauce over. Garnish each with whole strawberry, if desired, and serve.

Orange- and Vanilla-Scented Bundt Cake

Orange peel contains essential oils, which deliver the concentrated orange flavor and aroma in this fragrant cake. Blending the grated orange peel with the sugar first helps release the oils from the peel and turns the sugar a pretty pale orange color. 10 to 12 servings

Cake

3 cups unbleached all purpose flour

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

1⅔ cups sugar

1 tablespoon finely grated orange peel

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

3 large eggs

⅔ cup fresh orange juice

⅔ cup buttermilk

Glaze

½ cup fresh orange juice

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

Icing

⅓ cup powdered sugar

2 teaspoons (about) fresh orange juice

CAKE: Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Butter and flour 12- to 15-cup Bundt pan. Whisk flour, salt, and baking soda in medium bowl to blend. Using electric mixer, beat sugar and orange peel in large bowl at low speed to release essential oils from peel. Scrape seeds from vanilla bean into sugar mixture and beat to blend well. Add butter and beat until light. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Mix in orange juice (mixture will look curdled). Stir in flour mixture, then buttermilk. Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top. Bake cake until tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 50 minutes.

GLAZE: Meanwhile, boil orange juice, sugar, and butter in heavy small saucepan over medium heat until reduced to ½ cup, swirling pan occasionally, about 5 minutes.

Brush 3 tablespoons glaze over cake. Cool cake in pan on rack 10 minutes. Using small sharp knife, cut around sides and center tube of pan to loosen cake. Turn cake out onto rack and brush with remaining glaze. Cool completely.

ICING: Place sugar in small bowl. Mix in orange juice, ½ teaspoonful at a time, until thick pourable consistency forms. Drizzle icing decoratively over cake. Let stand until icing sets.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover with cake dome and store at cool room temperature.

Bundt PansBundt pans are fluted, ring-shaped cake pans that are available today in a seemingly endless variety of shapes and sizes. We call for a range of 12- to 15-cup capacity pans in our recipes in an effort to accommodate this variety. Because the width and depth of pans vary, it’s a good idea to check for doneness about 10 minutes before the suggested baking time has elapsed.

Apple-Spice Cake with Brown Sugar Glaze

Grated apples and a caramel-like glaze keep this cake moist and delicious for a day or two after you make it. Serve it warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream for a cake version of apple pie à la mode. 12 servings

Cake Nonstick vegetable oil spray

3 cups unbleached all purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

1¾ pounds Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, coarsely grated

1½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1½ cups sugar

½ cup (packed) golden brown sugar

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel

3 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Glaze

½ cup (packed) golden brown sugar

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter

¼ cup heavy whipping cream

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

CAKE: Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 325°F. Spray 12- to 15-cup Bundt pan with nonstick spray. Sift flour, baking soda, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice into medium bowl. Drain grated apples in strainer. Using hands or kitchen towel, squeeze out excess liquid from apples. Measure 2 cups grated apples.

Using electric mixer, beat butter, both sugars, and lemon peel in large bowl until fluffy. Beat in eggs 1 at a time. Mix in vanilla and lemon juice. Beat in flour mixture. Mix in grated apples. Transfer batter to prepared pan.

Bake cake until tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Cool in pan on rack 20 minutes.

GLAZE: While cake cools, prepare glaze. Stir sugar, butter, cream, vanilla, lemon juice, and salt in small nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until sugar dissolves and mixture comes to boil. Reduce heat to medium; whisk until glaze is smooth, about 1 minute. Remove from heat.

Invert cake onto rack set over baking sheet. Using small skewer, pierce holes all over top of warm cake. Pour hot glaze over top, allowing it to be absorbed before adding more. Cool cake 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Poured GlazesA glaze coating gives a cake a beautiful, glossy finish. The easiest way to glaze a cake is to place it on a cardboard round that is slightly smaller than the cake, then place the cake on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the glaze over the center of the cake, using an offset spatula to coax the glaze over the top and down the sides. Smooth the sides only as needed; the less the glaze is worked, the shinier it will remain. Allow the glaze to set (at room temperature or in the refrigerator, as indicated in the recipe), and then transfer the cake to a platter.

Maple-Walnut Pound Cake with Maple Glaze

While Grade A maple syrup is the most common variety, for this recipe it’s worth seeking out Grade B, which packs much more robust flavor. Grade B is becoming easier to find at specialty foods stores and supermarkets. 12 servings

Cake

1¾ cups coarsely chopped walnuts, toasted

2¼ cups cake flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

1¼ cups (2½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1¼ cups sugar

5 large eggs

½ cup pure maple syrup

¾ teaspoon maple extract

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

Glaze

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter

2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream

10 tablespoons powdered sugar, sifted

⅛ teaspoon maple extract

12 walnut halves

CAKE: Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 12- to 15-cup Bundt pan. Finely grind walnuts in processor. Sift flour, baking powder, and salt into medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat butter and sugar in large bowl until light and fluffy. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in maple syrup, maple extract, and vanilla (batter may look curdled). Mix in dry ingredients. Fold in ground walnuts.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake cake until top is golden and tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Transfer pan to rack; cool cake in pan 10 minutes. Using small knife, cut around sides and center tube of pan to loosen cake. Turn cake out onto rack and cool completely.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Wrap cake tightly in foil and store at room temperature.

GLAZE: Melt butter with maple syrup and cream in heavy small saucepan. Remove from heat. Add powdered sugar and maple extract; whisk until smooth. Cool glaze until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Drizzle glaze over cake. Arrange walnut halves decoratively on top of cake. Let cake stand until glaze sets, about 15 minutes.

Coconut Bundt Cake with Powdered Sugar Glaze

This pound cake gets its velvety texture from coconut milk. Look for it in the Asian foods section of the supermarket, or at Indian, Southeast Asian, or Latin markets. 12 to 16 servings

3 cups cake flour

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

2½ cups sugar

6 large eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

½ teaspoon coconut extract

1¼ cups canned unsweetened coconut milk, divided

2 cups (packed) sweetened flaked coconut

1¾ cups powdered sugarAdditional sweetened flaked coconut (optional)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously butter 12- to 15-cup Bundt pan; dust pan with flour. Stir flour and salt in medium bowl to blend. Beat butter in large bowl until fluffy. Gradually add 2½ cups sugar, beating until well blended. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, then both extracts. Beat in flour mixture in 4 additions alternately with 1 cup coconut milk in 3 additions. Fold in 2 cups flaked coconut. Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top.

Bake cake until top is golden brown and tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 1 hour 10 minutes. Cool cake in pan 5 minutes. Using small sharp knife, cut around sides and center tube of pan to loosen cake. Turn cake out onto rack; cool completely.

Whisk powdered sugar and remaining ¼ cup coconut milk in medium bowl to blend. Spoon glaze over cake. Top with additional coconut, if desired.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover with cake dome and store at room temperature.

Raspberry-Yogurt Cake

The yogurt helps make this moist cake especially tender. Coating the raspberries with flour keeps them suspended evenly in the cake. 10 to 12 servings

3 cups unbleached all purpose flour, divided

1½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1¾ cups sugar

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

1½ teaspoons almond extract, divided

1 teaspoon finely grated orange peel

3 large eggs, room temperature

1 cup plain low-fat yogurt

2½ cups raspberries (two 6-ounce containers)

1 cup powdered sugar

1 tablespoon (or more) water

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 12- to 15-cup Bundt pan. Whisk 2½ cups flour, baking powder, and salt in medium bowl.

Using electric mixer, beat butter and 1¾ cups sugar in large bowl until creamy. Beat in orange juice, 1 teaspoon almond extract, and orange peel. Beat in eggs 1 at a time. Mix in yogurt.

Add dry ingredients to batter and beat just until blended.

Toss remaining ½ cup flour and raspberries in large bowl. Fold berry mixture into batter. Spoon batter into prepared pan; smooth top.

Bake cake until tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 1 hour 10 minutes. Cool in pan on rack 30 minutes.

Invert cake onto plate and cool.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and let stand at room temperature.

Whisk powdered sugar, 1 tablespoon water, and remaining ½ teaspoon almond extract in medium bowl. Add more water by ½ teaspoonfuls as needed for thick glaze. Drizzle over cake. Let stand until glaze sets.Market Tip: RaspberriesThe best raspberries are locally grown and sold at farmers’ markets in open containers during mid- to late summer. Look for berries that have a bright, uniform color and avoid those that are dark and dull. Don’t rinse raspberries, as this blunts their aroma—buy organic so that there’s no concern about pesticides to wash away.

Almond Butter Crown

This yeast cake gets its name from the crown-like look, which is thanks to the Bundt pan it is baked in. It would be perfect for brunch or an afternoon tea. Almond paste is available in the baking aisle of most supermarkets and at specialty foods stores. 10 servings

Dough

3 cups unbleached all purpose flour

1¼ cups (2½ sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces

2¼-ounce envelopes active dry yeast

¼ cup warm water (105°F to 115°F)

½ cup canned evaporated milk, room temperature

2 large eggs, room temperatureSeeds from 6 cardamom pods, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

¼ cup sugar

Filling

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

½ cup sugar

½ cup almond paste

1 teaspoon almond extract

¼ cup sliced almonds

Powdered sugar

DOUGH: Place flour in processor. Add butter and cut in, using on/off turns, until butter is size of kidney beans. Transfer to large bowl. Cover and refrigerate while dissolving yeast.

Sprinkle yeast and pinch of sugar over ¼ cup warm water in medium bowl; stir to dissolve. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Mix in milk, eggs, crushed cardamom seeds, salt, and ¼ cup sugar. Pour over flour-butter mixture and stir just until flour is moistened. Cover and refrigerate at least 5 hours.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep refrigerated.

Punch dough down. Dust hands with flour. Pat dough out on lightly floured surface to 20-inch square. Fold dough over into 3 equal sections as for business letter. Press edges lightly with rolling pin to seal. Turn dough so that 1 short side faces you. Roll dough out into 30×6 ½-inch rectangle. Starting at 1 short side, fold dough over into thirds, forming 10×6 ½-inch rectangle. Wrap dough in plastic. Refrigerate while preparing filling.

FILLING: Using electric mixer, beat butter, sugar, almond paste, and almond extract in medium bowl to blend.

Butter 12- to 15-cup Bundt pan. Sprinkle bottom with sliced almonds. Unwrap dough. Roll dough out on lightly floured work surface into 24×9-inch rectangle. Spread filling over. Starting at 1 long side, roll dough up jelly-roll style. Cut dough crosswise into 8 slices. Arrange dough slices, cut sides down, in prepared pan, spacing evenly apart. Let rise in warm draft-free area until almost doubled in volume, about 1½ hours.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake cake until top is dark golden brown, about 45 minutes. Turn out onto rack.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cool completely. Wrap tightly in foil. Let stand at room temperature. Before continuing, rewarm uncovered in 325°F oven about 10 minutes.

Sift powdered sugar over. Serve warm.

Chocolate-Apricot Kugelhopf

This yeast-risen cake is surprisingly hands-off. It requires no kneading and gets set aside in a warm place to rise, doing lots of the work all by itself. If you don’t have a kugelhopf pan (they are available at cookware stores), you can use a large Bundt pan. 12 servings

Sponge

1½ cups apricot nectar

1½ cups sifted unbleached all purpose flour (sifted, then measured)

¼ cup sugar

¼ cup nonfat dry milk powder

1 ¼-ounce envelope quick-rising active dry yeast

Dough

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs

3 large egg yolks

3 tablespoons apricot brandy or apricot nectar

1¼ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon ground ginger

1 ¼-ounce envelope quick-rising active dry yeast

2 tablespoons hot water (120°F to 125°F)

3 cups sifted unbleached all purpose flour (sifted, then measured)

12 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

6 ounces moist dried apricots, quartered

2 tablespoons (packed) golden brown sugar

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

Powdered sugarChocolate Swirl Whipped Cream (optional; see recipe)

SPONGE: Boil apricot nectar in heavy medium saucepan over high heat until reduced to 1 cup, about 5 minutes. Pour reduced nectar into large bowl. Cool to 120°F to 125°F. Whisk in flour, sugar, milk powder, and yeast. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let rise in warm draft-free area until doubled in volume, about 30 minutes.

DOUGH: Generously butter 12-cup kugelhopf pan. Using electric mixer, beat butter and sugar in large bowl until fluffy. Beat in eggs and egg yolks 1 at a time. Beat in apricot brandy, salt, vanilla, and ginger. Combine yeast and 2 tablespoons hot water in small bowl and stir until yeast dissolves. Mix yeast mixture and sponge into butter mixture. Gradually mix in flour. Combine chocolate, dried apricots, brown sugar, and cinnamon in medium bowl. Mix into dough.

Spoon dough into prepared pan. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and kitchen towel. Let stand in warm draft-free area until dough rises just to top of pan, about 3 hours.

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Bake kugelhopf until deep brown and cracking on top and tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 48 minutes. Cool in pan on rack 20 minutes. Turn out onto rack and cool completely.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Return to pan, cover tightly, and store at room temperature.

Place kugelhopf on platter. Lightly sift powdered sugar over. Cut into wedges. Serve, passing Chocolate Swirl Whipped Cream separately, if desired.

Chocolate Swirl Whipped Cream

This luscious whipped cream is optional—but how could you resist? The apricot flavor complements the kugelhopf, and would add an unexpected, sophisticated touch to other chocolate cakes. Makes 5 cups

2 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate (do not exceed 61% cacao), chopped

2 tablespoons plus 2 cups heavy whipping cream

2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons apricot brandy or apricot nectar

Stir chocolate and 2 tablespoons cream in heavy small saucepan over low heat until chocolate melts and mixture is smooth. Cool. Beat remaining 2 cups cream and sugar in large bowl until soft peaks form. Add brandy and continue beating until stiff peaks form. Pour chocolate mixture over cream and fold together until whipped cream is lightly streaked with chocolate. Transfer to serving bowl.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.

Blueberry Coffee Cake

This cake tastes equally delicious whether made using fresh or frozen blueberries. 12 servings

2⅓ cups unbleached all purpose flour, divided

¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, divided

1 cup sweetened flaked coconut

½ cup (packed) golden brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs

1 cup milk

1 12-ounce package frozen blueberries, unthawed, or 2½ cups fresh blueberries

Combine ⅓ cup flour, ¼ cup butter, coconut, brown sugar, and cinnamon in medium bowl. Mix until moist and crumbly. Set topping aside.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter and flour 13×9×2-inch metal baking pan. Sift remaining 2 cups flour, baking powder, and salt into small bowl. Using electric mixer, beat remaining ½ cup butter in large bowl until fluffy. Gradually add sugar, beating until well blended. Beat in eggs 1 at a time. Mix dry ingredients into batter alternately with milk in 3 additions each. Fold in blueberries.

Transfer batter to prepared pan. Sprinkle topping evenly over batter. Bake cake until tester inserted into center comes out clean and topping is golden brown, about 40 minutes. Cool cake slightly. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Spiced Crumble Cake with Chocolate Frosting

The cake can be made a day ahead, and it keeps well after serving, too. The “crumble” refers to the cake’s center: a layer of pecans, brown sugar, butter, and cocoa powder. 12 servings

Crumble

1 cup pecans

⅓ cup (packed) golden brown sugar

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) chilled unsalted butter, diced

1 tablespoon natural unsweetened cocoa powder

Cake

2⅓ cups unbleached all purpose flour

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

¾ cup sour cream

¼ cup whole milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup sugar

¾ cup (packed) golden brown sugar

5 large eggs

Frosting

6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate (do not exceed 61% cacao), chopped

1 8-ounce package Philadelphia-brand cream cheese, room temperature

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2½ cups powdered sugar

2 tablespoons natural unsweetened cocoa powder

CRUMBLE: Blend pecans, sugar, butter, and cocoa in processor until nuts are finely chopped.

CAKE: Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 13×9×2-inch metal baking pan. Whisk flour, cornstarch, baking soda, cinnamon, salt, cloves, and allspice in medium bowl to blend. Whisk sour cream, milk, and vanilla in small bowl to blend.

Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until fluffy. Gradually beat in both sugars. Beat in 3 eggs, 1 at a time. Beat in ½ cup dry ingredients. Beat in remaining 2 eggs, 1 at a time. Beat in remaining dry ingredients in 3 additions alternately with sour cream mixture in 2 additions.

Spread 3 cups batter in prepared pan. Sprinkle with crumble; press lightly into batter. Spread remaining batter over crumble to cover. Bake cake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Cool cake in pan on rack.

FROSTING: Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over simmering water, stirring until just melted and smooth. Let stand just until cool but not set. Using electric mixer, beat cream cheese, butter, and vanilla in large bowl to blend. Beat in sugar in 3 additions, then cooled chocolate and cocoa.

Spread frosting over top of cake.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Chill until frosting is set; cover and keep chilled. Let stand 1 hour at room temperature before serving.

Sour Cream-Orange Coffee Cake with Chocolate-Pecan Streusel

Sour cream makes this coffee cake rich and moist, and a streusel in both the filling and the topping adds twice as much chocolate-pecan flavor. 12 servings

Streusel

1½ cups (packed) golden brown sugar

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) chilled salted butter, diced

1½ cups coarsely chopped pecans

1 cup (6 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips

Cake

3 cups unbleached all purpose flour

1½ teaspoons baking soda

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1⅓ cups sugar

¾ cup (1½ sticks) salted butter, room temperature

3 large eggs

1½ teaspoons finely grated orange peel

1½ teaspoons vanilla extract

1½ cups sour cream

¼ cup fresh orange juice

Powdered sugar

STREUSEL: Whisk sugar and cinnamon in medium bowl to blend. Add butter and rub in with fingertips until mixture holds together in small moist clumps. Mix in pecans and chocolate chips.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate.

CAKE: Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 13×9×2-inch metal baking pan. Sift flour, baking soda, and baking powder into medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat sugar and butter in large bowl until blended and smooth. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, then orange peel and vanilla. Mix in flour mixture in 4 additions alternately with sour cream in 3 additions. Mix in orange juice. Spread half of batter in prepared pan. Sprinkle with half of streusel. Drop remaining batter over by heaping tablespoonfuls; carefully spread batter to make even layer. Sprinkle with remaining streusel.

Bake cake 30 minutes. Place sheet of foil loosely over pan to keep topping from browning too quickly. Continue baking until tester inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 35 minutes longer. Remove foil. Cool cake in pan on rack 20 minutes. Sift powdered sugar over cake; serve warm or at room temperature.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Cool completely. Store airtight at room temperature.

Poppy Seed Coffee Cake with Cardamom Streusel

The streusel topping is delicious and adds a spicy, homey touch to this rustic cake. But if you’re running short on time, go ahead and skip it—the cake is still delicious without it. 10 to 12 servings

Streusel

6 tablespoons sugar

6 tablespoons unbleached all purpose flour

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted

¾ teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Cake

2⅓ cups cake flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

¾ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon salt

11 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

2 large eggs

1 cup sour cream

¼ cup fresh orange juice

2 teaspoons finely grated orange peel

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

⅓ cup poppy seeds

STREUSEL: Mix sugar, flour, melted butter, cardamom, and cinnamon in small bowl until moist clumps form.

CAKE: Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 10-inch-diameter angel food cake pan with removable bottom. Sift cake flour, baking powder, baking soda, cardamom, and salt twice into medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat butter and sugar in large bowl until well blended. Beat in eggs 1 at a time. Mix in sour cream, orange juice, orange peel, and vanilla. Beat in dry ingredients to blend. Mix in poppy seeds. Transfer batter to prepared pan (batter will fill less than half of pan).

Bake cake 25 minutes. Sprinkle streusel over top of cake. Continue to bake until tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 25 minutes longer. Cool cake completely in pan on rack.

Using sharp knife, cut around sides of pan and center tube to loosen cake. Holding center tube, lift cake from pan sides. Cut cake free from pan bottom. Placing hand gently atop cake for support, tilt cake just far enough over to release from center tube; remove tube. Place cake streusel side up on platter.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and let stand at room temperature.

Testing for DonenessThe baking time indicated in a recipe provides the estimated time you can expect the cake to be done, but visual cues are your best bet for determining doneness. Here are three ways to determine if a cake is perfectly done.1. Insert a toothpick, cake tester, or even a thin metal skewer (like the ones used to truss a turkey) into the center of the cake. It should come out clean or with just a few crumbs attached.2. Gently press your finger onto the top of the cake. The cake should spring back without leaving an impression of your finger.3. Check the sides of the cake. In most cases, the edges should just begin to pull away from the sides of the pan.For a molten cake, the rules are different. A tester inserted into the center of the cake should come out with thick batter attached, and the tops and sides of the cake should be set, while the center should appear wobbly.

Raisin Streusel Cake

Made with matzo cake meal, potato starch, and nondairy creamer, this deliciously spiced coffee cake also satisfies the dietary requirements for Passover. 12 servings

Streusel

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted margarine, room temperature

⅔ cup sugar

4¼ teaspoons ground cardamom

2¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon

½ cup matzo cake meal

Cake

½ cup matzo cake meal

½ cup potato starch

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground ginger

5 large egg whites, room temperature

1⅓ cups sugar, divided

5 large egg yolks

⅓ cup liquid nondairy creamer

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted margarine, melted, cooled

2 tablespoons finely grated lemon peel

1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

⅔ cup raisins

STREUSEL: Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Coat 9×9×2-inch metal baking pan generously with margarine. Mix margarine, sugar, cardamom, and cinnamon in medium bowl. Gradually add matzo cake meal and mix until crumbly. Spread half of streusel on baking sheet and bake until golden and crisp, about 10 minutes. Cool and break into bits.

CAKE: Combine matzo cake meal, potato starch, salt, and ginger in small bowl. Using electric mixer, beat egg whites in large bowl until soft peaks form. Gradually add 1 cup sugar and beat until stiff but not dry.

Using same beaters, beat egg yolks and remaining ⅓ cup sugar in another large bowl until mixture is thick and slowly dissolving ribbon forms when beaters are lifted. Beat in nondairy creamer, then margarine, lemon peel, and lemon juice at low speed. Add dry ingredients and stir until well blended. Fold in egg white mixture in 2 additions.

Pour half of batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle baked streusel over. Sprinkle with half of raisins. Spread remaining batter over. Sprinkle with unbaked streusel and remaining raisins. Bake until tester inserted into center of cake comes out dry, about 40 minutes.

Cool cake in pan on rack. Cover with foil and let stand 1 hour to soften topping.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep covered and store at room temperature.

Cut into squares and serve.

Cherry-Vanilla Tea Cake with Vanilla Sugar

A springform pan is ideal for this cake: The powdered sugar topping can be sifted over the hot cake while it’s still in the pan—allowing some of the sugar to melt ever so slightly—then the sides can be slipped off without disturbing the topping. Tossing the cherries with the reserved flour mixture before they’re added to the batter prevents them from sinking to the bottom. 10 servings

1½ cups unbleached all purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

2 large eggs, room temperature

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

⅔ cup sour cream

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel

1 cup canned pitted sweet cherries, halved, drained

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly butter and flour 10-inch-diameter springform pan with 2¾-inch-high sides. Sift flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg into medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat butter and 1 cup sugar in large bowl until well blended. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Blend in vanilla extract. Transfer 2 tablespoons dry ingredients to small bowl. At low speed, beat half of remaining dry ingredients into butter mixture, then mix in sour cream and lemon peel. Beat in remaining half of dry ingredients. Mix cherries into reserved 2 tablespoons dry ingredients; fold cherries into batter.

Spoon batter into prepared pan; smooth top. Bake until tester inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Transfer cake to rack and cool 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, using small sharp knife, scrape seeds from vanilla bean into small bowl. Mix in remaining 1 tablespoon sugar, rubbing with fingertips to distribute seeds. Add powdered sugar and rub again.

Sift vanilla sugar over hot cake and cool. Cut around pan sides to loosen cake; remove pan sides.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; let stand at room temperature.

Chocolate Chip Coffee Cake

With mini chocolate chips dotted throughout and a sweet and tangy drizzle on top, this moist coffee cake is great for either brunch or dessert. 12 servings

CakeNonstick vegetable oil spray

2 large egg whites (¼ cup)

⅓ cup (packed) golden brown sugarPinch of salt

1½ cups coarsely chopped walnuts

1¼ cups mini semisweet chocolate chips, divided

2 cups cake flour

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

3 large eggs

¾ cup sour cream

Topping

¾ cup powdered sugar

2 tablespoons sour cream

CAKE: Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Butter and flour 10-inch-diameter angel food cake pan with removable bottom, then spray with nonstick spray. Mix egg whites, brown sugar, and salt in medium bowl. Mix in walnuts and ¼ cup chocolate chips.

Whisk flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in another medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat sugar and butter in large bowl to blend. Beat in eggs 1 at a time. Stir in flour mixture in 4 additions alternately with sour cream in 3 additions. Stir in remaining 1 cup chocolate chips.

Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top. Spoon walnut mixture evenly over. Bake cake until tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 1 hour 8 minutes. Cool cake in pan on rack 15 minutes. Using sharp knife, cut around sides of pan and center tube to loosen cake. Using oven mitt, grasp center tube and lift cake from sides of pan. Cool cake completely on rack. Cut cake free from pan bottom. Placing hand gently atop cake for support, tilt cake just far enough over to release from center tube; remove tube. Place cake, streusel side up, on platter (walnuts should be on top).

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Wrap in plastic.

TOPPING: Mix sugar and sour cream in bowl; drizzle over cake.

Chocolate-Pecan Coffee Cake

This yeast-risen coffee cake needs to rise for an hour before being baked, so allow enough time before you plan to serve it. 12 servings

Topping

1 8-ounce package Philadelphia-brand cream cheese, room temperature

¼ cup powdered sugar

1 large egg yolk

⅔ cup golden raisins

Cake

5 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

¾ cup (packed) golden brown sugar

1½ cups sifted unbleached all purpose flour (sifted, then measured)

½ cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder

¾ teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) chilled unsalted butter, diced

⅓ cup warm water (105°F to 115°F)

1 teaspoon sugar

1 ¼-ounce envelope active dry yeast

1 large egg, room temperature

6 tablespoons milk, room temperature

Pecans

1 large egg white

½ cup sugar

1 cup pecan halves

TOPPING: Using electric mixer, beat cream cheese, sugar, and egg yolk in small bowl to blend. Mix in raisins.

CAKE: Butter 9×9×2-inch metal baking pan. Finely grind chocolate and brown sugar in processor. Transfer to bowl. Blend flour, cocoa, and salt in processor 5 seconds. Add butter; using on/off turns, chop finely.

Combine ⅓ cup warm water, sugar, and yeast in large bowl. Stir to dissolve yeast. Let stand until foamy, about 8 minutes. Mix in egg, milk, chocolate mixture, and flour mixture. Spread batter in prepared pan. Drop topping over batter by tablespoonfuls and spread carefully to cover.

Pour boiling water in bottom of 8×8-inch pan to depth of 1½ inches. Place pan with dough over pan with water. Cover pan with dough tightly with plastic wrap, then kitchen towel. Let stand until dough has risen, about 1 hour.

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F

PECANS: Meanwhile, beat egg white and sugar in medium bowl until thick. Add pecan halves and stir until well coated.

Arrange pecans, rounded side up, atop cake in irregular pattern (discard excess sugar mixture). Bake cake until tester inserted into center comes out with just a few crumbs attached, about 35 minutes. Cool cake in pan on rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Texas Sheet Cake

There’s no clear consensus on why this cake is named for Texas, though it certainly is large like the Lone Star State (and Lady Bird Johnson is rumored to have created it). The chocolate glaze and crunchy pecan topping are easy decorations for the novice baker. And there are lots of ways to change up the topping, such as adding coarsely crushed toffee bars, chocolate-coated espresso beans, or toasted coconut; or add mini marshmallows and toasted walnuts for a rocky road rendition. 12 servings

Cake

1⅔ cups unbleached all purpose flour

⅔ cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder

¾ teaspoon baking soda

¾ teaspoon salt

1½ cups sugar

¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup hot water

Glaze

⅔ cup heavy whipping cream

2 tablespoons sugar

6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate (do not exceed 61% cacao), chopped

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1¼ cups coarsely chopped pecans, toasted

CAKE: Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 13×9×2-inch metal cake pan. Whisk flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt in medium bowl to blend. Using electric mixer, beat sugar and butter in large bowl until light and fluffy. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Mix in vanilla. Beat in half of dry ingredients, then 1 cup hot water, then remaining dry ingredients. Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top. Bake cake until tester inserted into center just comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Cool cake in pan on rack.

GLAZE: Bring cream and sugar to boil in heavy medium saucepan. Remove from heat and add chocolate and butter. Let stand 5 minutes; whisk until smooth. Drizzle half of glaze over cake; sprinkle with pecans. Drizzle with remaining glaze. Cool until glaze is set.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

Cut cake into squares and serve.

The Right IcingCertain frostings, icings, and glazes go particularly well with certain cakes. Here’s how they match up.LIGHT, SPONGY CAKES—like angel food and chiffon cakes-work best with thin, pourable icings made by dissolving powdered sugar with a liquid, such as milk, coffee, or citrus juice, or with fluffy whipped cream frostings that won’t compete with the cake’s airy crumb. Spongy cakes are able to soak up any excess moisture these creamy icings may exude. Powdered sugar icings and chocolate glazes also work well with Bundt cakes, since the decorative surface needs just a glossy finish.RICH, MOIST LAYERED CAKES—like gingerbread, chocolate, and carrot cakes—work in harmony with buttercreams, whipped ganaches, and cream cheese frostings, which won’t exude liquid and will help seal in the cake’s moisture.DENSE, FUDGY CAKES—like flourless chocolate cakes—are so rich that a simple sifting of powdered sugar is often the only embellishment needed. These cakes are even more extravagant when draped in ganache, covered in whipped cream, or served with a dessert sauce, such as crème anglaise.

Carrot Cake with Buttermilk Glaze and Cinnamon-Cream Cheese Frosting

There’s nothing ordinary about this carrot cake. It’s loaded with coconut, pineapple, and pecans, and includes both a glaze and a frosting. The glaze is hot when it’s poured over the warm sheet cake, which gives this dessert a rich, moist texture. The frosting is truly the icing on the cake. Just be sure the glazed cake is completely cool before the frosting is spread over it, or the frosting will melt. 12 servings

Cake

2 cups unbleached all purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt

1½ cups sugar

3 large eggs

¾ cup buttermilk

¾ cup vegetable oil

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups coarsely grated peeled carrots

1½ cups sweetened flaked coconut

1 8-ounce can crushed pineapple in juice

1 cup coarsely chopped pecans

Glaze

1 cup sugar

½ cup buttermilk

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, diced

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

1½ teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Frosting

1½ 8-ounce packages Philadelphia-brand cream cheese, room temperature

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 1-pound box powdered sugar

2 tablespoons (packed) brown sugar

1½ teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

CAKE: Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush 13×9×2-inch metal baking pan with vegetable oil; dust with flour. Whisk flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in medium bowl. Beat sugar, eggs, buttermilk, oil, and vanilla in large bowl until smooth. Beat in dry ingredients. Fold in carrots, coconut, pineapple with juice, and pecans. Transfer batter to prepared pan.

Bake cake 30 minutes. Tent loosely with foil. Continue to bake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 15 minutes longer. Remove from oven. Using bamboo skewer, poke deep holes all over cake.

GLAZE: Meanwhile, bring sugar, buttermilk, butter, corn syrup, and baking soda to boil in large saucepan, stirring until sugar dissolves. Boil until glaze is deep amber color, whisking often, 3 to 4 minutes (glaze will thin out when almost done). Remove from heat; mix in vanilla.

Spoon hot glaze evenly over warm cake. Cool cake completely in pan.

FROSTING: Beat cream cheese and butter in large bowl until fluffy. Add powdered sugar, brown sugar, vanilla, and cinnamon; beat until blended. Spread frosting over cooled cake in pan.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.

Parsnip Spice Cake with Ginger-Cream Cheese Frosting

Parsnips are closely related to carrots—they are similar in flavor but have creamy white flesh. Here, they give a new twist to carrot cake. Toasting the walnuts, or any other nuts, intensifies their rich nutty flavor; see page 36 for tips on toasting nuts. 12 to 16 servings

1½ cups unbleached all purpose flour

1 cup sugar

1 tablespoon ground ginger

2 teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon

¾ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon ground nutmeg

¾ teaspoon ground allspice

¾ teaspoon ground cloves

3 large eggs

½ cup canola oil or other vegetable oil

½ cup whole milk

1½ teaspoons vanilla extract, divided

2 cups (packed) shredded peeled parsnips (about 3 large)

½ cup walnuts, toasted, chopped

4 ounces Philadelphia-brand cream cheese, room temperature

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter, room temperature