Fashionopolis. Цена быстрой моды и будущее одежды - читать бесплатно онлайн полную версию книги автора Дана Томас (ч. notes)

Сноски

1

Цит. в переводе Т. Щепкиной-Куперник. – Прим. пер.

2

“Inditex’s Net Sales Rise 9 Percent to €25.34 Billion in Fiscal 2017,” Inditex, March 14, 2018, https://www.inditex.com/article?articleId=552792.

3

Inditex Annual Report, 2017, 16, https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2017/assets/pdf/memoria_en.pdf.

4

Gabriella Pailla, “Is Melania’s Infamous Zara Jacket a Ripoff of Another Designer?” The Cut, June 22, 2018, https://www.thecut.com/2018/06/melanias-zara-jacket-r13-ripoff.html.

5

Chase Peterson-Withorn, “The Full List of Every American Billionaire 2016, Forbes, March 1, 2016, https://www.forbes.com/sites/chasewithorn/2016/01/the-full-list-of-every-american-billionaire-2016/.

6

“The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton,” Environmental Justice Foundation, 2007, http://www.cottoncampaign.org/uploads/3/9/4/7/39474145/2007_ejf_deadlychemicalsincotton.pdf.

7

Перевод Елены Суриц. – Прим. ред.

8

В книге упоминаются социальные сети Instagram и/или Facebook, принадлежащие компании Meta Platforms Inc., деятельность которой по реализации соответствующих продуктов на территории Российской Федерации запрещена. – Прим. ред.

9

“Brick by Brick: The State of the Shopping Center,” Nielson, May 17, 2013, https://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2013/brick-by-brick-the-state-of-the-shopping-center.html.

10

Alexandra Schwartz, “Rent the Runway Wants to Lend You Your Look,” The New Yorker, October 22, 2018, https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2018/10/22/rent-the-runway-wants-to-lend-you-your-look.

11

Andrew Morgan, The True Cost, documentary (Life Is My Movie Entertainment, 2015).

12

John Kerr and John Landry, “The Pulse of the Fashion Industry,” Boston Consulting Group and Global Fashion Agenda, May 2017, 8.

13

Claire Press, “Why the Fashion Industry Is Out of Control,” Australian Financial Review, April 23, 2016, https://www.afr.com/lifestyle/fashion/why-the-fashion-industry-is-out-of-control-20160419-goa5ic.

14

Интервью, данное Дилис Уильямс автору, Лондон, 16 декабря 2016 г.

15

Устойчивое развитие (англ. sustainable development) – в противоположность экономике, нацеленной на получение прибыли, подразумевает процесс экономических и социальных изменений с акцентом на защиту окружающей среды и гармонизацию общества и личности. – Прим. ред.

16

Stephanie Vatz, “Why America Stopped Making Its Own Clothes,” KQED News, May 24, 2013, https://www.kqed.org/lowdown/7939/madeinamerica.

17

Schwartz, “Rent the Runway.”

18

Stephanie Clifford, “U.S. Textile Plants Return, With Floors Largely Empty of People,” The New York Times, September 12, 2013, https://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/20/business/us-textile-factories-return.html.

19

Kate Abnett, “Does Reshoring Fashion Manufacturing Make Sense?” The Business of Fashion, March 9, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/can-fashion-manufacturing-come-home.

20

“Global Fashion Statistics – International Apparel,” Fashion United, 2018.

21

“Value of the U.S. Apparel Trade Worldwide from 2007 to 2017,” Statista, n.d., https://www.statista.com/statistics/242290/value-of-the-us-apparel-trade-worldwide/.

22

Ассоциация моды и текстиля Великобритании, в электронном письме, 4 марта 2019 г.

23

Steve Denning, “Why Are the US Olympic Uniforms Being Made in China?” Forbes, July 23, 2012, http://www.forbes.com/sites/stevedenning/2012/07/23/why-are-the-us-olympic-uniforms-being-made-in-china.

24

Diana Verde Nieto, “What Does ‘Made in America’ Luxury Really Look Like?” Luxury Society, March 20, 2017, https://www.luxurysociety.com/en/articles/2017/what-does-made-america-luxury-really-look/.

25

Luisa Kroll and Kerry Dolan, “Meet the Members of the Three-Comma Club,” Forbes, March 6, 2018, https://www.forbes.com/billionaires/#720a681d251c.

26

Morgan, The True Cost.

27

Maxine Bédat and Michael Shank, “There Is a Major Climate Issue Hiding in Your Closet: Fast Fashion,” Fast Company, November 11, 2016, https://www.fastcompany.com/3065532/there-is-a-major-climate-issue-hiding-in-your-closet-fast-fashion.

28

SOCAP (Social Capital Markets) – ежегодная конференция, посвященная вопросам привлечения капиталов в социальную политику. – Прим. ред.

29

Julia Jacobo, “How Sustainable Brands Are Turning Their Backs on Fast Fashion Trend,” ABC News, September 13, 2016, https://abcnews.go.com/US/sustainable-brands-turning-backs-fast-fashion-trend/story?id=39590457.

30

Nathalie Remy, Eveline Speelman, and Steven Swartz, “Style That’s Sustainable: A New Fast-Fashion Formula,” McKinsey & Company, October 2016.

31

Kate Abnett, “Three Years After Rana Plaza, Has Anything Changed?” The Business of Fashion, April 19, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/can-fashion-industry-become-sustainable/-years-on-from-rana-plaza-has-anything-changed-sustainability-safety-worker-welfare.

32

Marianna Kerppola et al., “H&M’s Global Supply Chain Management Sustainability: Factories and Fast Fashion,” University of Michigan, February 8, 2014.

33

“The Impact of a Cotton T-Shirt,” World Wildlife Fund, January 16, 2013, https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt.

34

Echo Huang, “The Once Pristine Waters of Antarctica Now Contain Plastic Fibers,” Quartz, June 7, 2018, https://qz.com/1299485/antarcticas-waters-now-contain-plastic-fibers/.

35

Alexandra Schwartz, “Rent the Runway.”

36

Alden Wicker, “Fast Fashion Is Creating an Environmental Crisis,” Newsweek, September 1, 2016, https://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html.

37

Kerr and Landry, “Pulse of the Fashion Industry,” 12.

38

“Overview of the Used Clothing Market in East Africa,” United States Agency for International Development, July 2017.

39

“Global Business of Secondhand Clothes Thrive in Africa,” Africa News, April 26, 2018, http://www.africanews.com/2018/04/26/global-business-of-secondhand-clothes-thrive-in-africa-business-africa//.

40

Abdi Latif Dahir and Yomi Kazeem, “Trump’s ‘Trade War’ Includes Punishing Africans for Refusing Second-hand American Clothes,” Quartz Africa, April 5, 2018, https://qz.com/africa/1245015/trump-trade-war-us-suspends-rwanda-agoa-eligibility-over-secondhand-clothes-ban/.

41

“Textiles: Material-Specific Data,” epa.gov. n.d.

42

Press, “Why the Fashion Industry Is Out of Control.”

43

Anat Keinan and Sandrine Crener, “Stella McCartney,” Harvard Business School, November 22, 2016.

44

Jessica Dickler, “Black Friday Weekend: Record $52.4 Billion Spent,” CNN Money, November 27, 2011, https://money.cnn.com/2011/27/pf/black_friday/index.htm.

45

Вирджил Абло скончался в 2021 г. – Прим. ред.

46

Интервью, данное Рафаэллой Мандриотой автору, Вильпент, 13 февраля 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Мандриоты происходят из этого интервью.

47

Интервью, данное Мэри Катранзу автору, Лондон, 7 февраля 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Катранзу происходят из этого интервью, телефонных звонков или электронных писем, если не указано иное.

48

Hanna Rose Iverson, “Started From the Bottom: Mary Katrantzou to Hannah Griffiths,” Brighton Fashion Week, n.d., http://www.brightonfashionweek.com/blog/started-mary-k.

49

Samantha Conti, “Wendy Yu Invests in Mary Katrantzou, Eyes Growth in China,” Women’s Wear Daily, January 22, 2018.

50

Nancy Chilton, “Wendy Yu Endows Lead Curatorial Position at the Costume Institute,” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, March 7, 2018.

51

Conti, “Wendy Yu Invests in Mary Katrantzou, Eyes Growth in China.”

52

Sarah Mower, “Mary Katrantzou,” Vogue.com, September 15, 2018, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou.

53

Vanessa Friedman, “The Meghan Markle Non-Effect,” The New York Times, September 18, 2018, https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/18/fashion/london-fashion-week-spring-2019-erdem-christopher-kane.html.

54

Samantha Conti, “The Collections: Mary Katrantzou,” Women’s Wear Daily, September 17, 2018.

55

Stephen Yafa, Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber (New York: Penguin, 2005), 45.

56

Thomas Carlyle, The Works of Thomas Carlyle (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010), 182.

57

“Working Conditions for Children,” Cromfordmills.org.uk, n.d., https://www.cromfordmills.org.uk/sites/default/files/attachments/Source%202%20-%20Child%20Workers.pdf.

58

Yafa, Cotton, 55.

59

Yafa, Cotton, 63.

60

Yafa, Cotton, 67.

61

Pietra Rivoli, The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy: An Economist Examines the Markets, Power, and Politics of World Trade (Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2015), 96.

62

Yafa, Cotton, 107.

63

Daniel Soyer, “Introduction: The Rise and Fall of the Garment Industry in New York City,” in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in New York City’s Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (New York: Fordham University Press, 2005), 6–7.

64

Hadassa Kosak, “Tailors and Troublemakers: Jewish Militancy in the New York Garment Industry, 1889‒1910,” in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in New York City’s Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (New York: Fordham University Press, 2005), 118.

65

Nancy L. Green, “From Downtown Tenements to Midtown Lofts,” in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in New York City’s Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (New York: Fordham University Press, 2005), 34.

66

“The Economic Impact of the Fashion Industry,” Joint Economic Committee, United States Congress, February 6, 2015.

67

Bill Blass, “American Gals,” The New Yorker, April 14, 1997, 74.

68

“On and Off the Avenue: Feminine Fashions,” The New Yorker, September 20, 1941.

69

Nancy Hardin and Lois Long, “Luxury, Inc.,” The New Yorker, March 31, 1934.

70

Blass, “American Gals.”

71

Soyer, “Introduction,” 14–15.

72

Bill Blass and Cathy Horyn, Bare Blass (New York: Harper-Collins, 2002), 19–21.

73

Green, “From Downtown Tenements to Midtown Lofts,” 29.

74

Soyer, “Introduction,” 16.

75

Soyer, “Introduction,” 18.

76

Marc Karimzadeh, “Ralph Lauren Boosts N.Y. Manufacturing Initiative,” Women’s Wear Daily, October 23, 2013.

77

Soyer, “Introduction,” 20.

78

Stephanie Vatz, “Why America Stopped Making Its Own Clothes,” KQED News, May 24, 2013.

79

“Ronald Reagan’s Announcement for Presidential Candidacy,” November 13, 1979, reaganlibrary.gov, https://www.reaganlibrary.gov/11-13-79.

80

Alexandra Harney, The China Price: The True Cost of Chinese Competitive Advantage (New York: Penguin Press, 2008), 20.

81

Rivoli, The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy, 160.

82

Harney, The China Price, 21.

83

Soyer, “Introduction,” 16.

84

Jerome Chazen, My Life at Liz Claiborne: How We Broke the Rules and Built the Largest Fashion Company in the World (Bloomington, IN: AuthorHouse, 2011), рр. 52–57.