By the same author
BURMESE DAYS COMING UP FOR
AIR HOMAGE TO CATALONIA
THE LION AND THE UNICORN
ANIMAL FARM
CRITICAL ESSAYS
NINETEEN EIGHTY-FOUR
DOWN AND OUT IN
PARIS AND LONDON
BY
GEORGE ORWELL
" O scathful harm, condition of poverte ! "
CHAUCER
LONDON
SECKER & WARBURG
1949
Martin Secker & Warburg Ltd. 7 John Street, Bloomsbury, London, W.C.
First published (Gollancz), January
1933 New edition, reset, 1949
MADE AND PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN by MORRISON
AND GIBB LTD., LONDON AND EDINBURGH
I
THE Rue du Coq d'Or, Paris, seven in the morning.
A succession of furious, choking yells from the street.
Madame Monce, who kept the little hotel opposite mine,
had come out on to the pavement to address a lodger on
the third floor. Her bare feet were stuck into sabots and
her grey hair was streaming down.
Madame Monce: « Salope! Salope!
How many times
have I told you not to squash bugs on the wallpaper? Do
you think you've bought the hotel, eh? Why can't you
throw them out of the window like everyone else?
Putain!
Salope! »
The woman on the third floor: « Vache
! »
Thereupon a whole variegated chorus of yells, as
windows were flung open on every side and half the
street joined in the quarrel. They shut up abruptly ten
minutes later, when a squadron of cavalry rode past and
people stopped shouting to look at them.
I sketch this scene, just to convey something of the
spirit of the Rue du Coq d'Or. Not that quarrels were the
only thing that happened there-but still, we seldom got
through the morning without at least one outburst of
this description. Quarrels, and the desolate cries of
street hawkers, and the shouts of children chasing
orange-peel over the cobbles, and at night loud singing
and the sour reek of the refuse-carts, made up the
atmosphere of the street.
It was a very narrow street-a ravine of tall, leprous
houses, lurching towards one another in queer atti-
tudes, as though they had all been frozen in the act of
collapse. All the houses were hotels and packed to the
tiles with lodgers, mostly Poles, Arabs and Italians. At 5
the foot of the hotels were tiny bistros, where you could be
drunk for the equivalent of a shilling. On Saturday nights
about a third of the male population of the quarter was
drunk. There was fighting over women, and the Arab
navvies who lived in the cheapest hotels used to conduct
mysterious feuds, and fight them out with chairs and
occasionally revolvers. At night the policemen would
only come through the street two together. It was a fairly
rackety place. And yet amid the noise and dirt lived the
usual respectable French shopkeepers, bakers and
laundresses and the like, keeping themselves to
themselves and quietly piling up small fortunes. It'was
quite a representative Paris slum.
My hotel was called the Hôtel des Trois Moineaux. It
was a dark, rickety warren of five storeys, cut up by
wooden partitions into forty rooms. The rooms were
small and inveterately dirty, for there was no maid,
and Madame F., the patronne, had no time to do any
sweeping. The walls were as thin as matchwood, and
to hide the cracks they had been covered with layer
after layer of pink paper, which had come loose and
housed innumerable bugs. Near the ceiling long lines
of bugs marched all day like columns of soldiers,
and at night came down ravenously hungry, so that
one had to get up every few hours and kill them in
hecatombs. Sometimes when the bugs got too bad
one used to burn sulphur and drive them into the
next room; whereupon the lodger next door would
retort by having his room sulphured, and drive the
bugs back. It was a dirty place, but homelike, for
Madame F. and her husband were good sorts. The
rent of the rooms varied between thirty and fifty
francs a week.
The lodgers were a floating population, largely
foreigners, who used to turn up without luggage, stay
a week and then disappear again. They were of every
trade-cobblers, bricklayers, stonemasons, navvies,
students, prostitutes, rag-pickers. Some of them were
fantastically poor. In one of the attics there was a
Bulgarian student who made fancy shoes for the Ameri-
can market. From six to twelve he sat on his bed, making
a dozen pairs of shoes and earning thirty-five francs; the
rest of the day he attended lectures at the Sorbonne. He
was studying for the Church, and books of theology lay
face-down on his leather-strewn floor. In another room
lived a Russian woman and her son, who called himself
an artist. The mother worked sixteen hours a day,
darning socks at twenty-five centimes a sock, while the
son, decently dressed, loafed in the Montparnasse cafés.
One room was let to two different lodgers, one a day
worker and the other a night worker. In another room a
widower shared the same bed with his two grown-up
daughters, both consumptive.
There were eccentric characters in the hotel. The Paris
slums are a gathering-place for eccentric people -people
who have fallen into solitary, half-mad grooves of life and
given up trying to be normal or decent. Poverty frees them
from ordinary standards of behaviour, just as money frees
people from work. Some of the lodgers in our hotel lived
lives that were curious beyond words.
There were the Rougiers, for instance, an old, ragged,
dwarfish couple who plied an extraordinary trade. They
used to sell post cards on the Boulevard St. Michel. The
curious thing was that the post cards were sold in sealed
packets as pornographic ones, but were actually photo-
graphs of chateaux on the Loire; the buyers did not discover
this till too late, and of course never complained. The
Rougiers earned about a hundred francs a week, and by
strict economy managed to be always half
starved and half drunk. The filth of their room was
such that one could smell it on the floor below. Accord-
ing to Madame F., neither of the Rougiers had taken off
their clothes for four years.
Or there was Henri, who worked in the sewers. He
was a tall, melancholy man with curly hair, rather
romantic-looking in his long, sewer-man's boots.
Henri's peculiarity was that he did not speak, except for
the purposes of work, literally for days together. Only a
year before he had been a chauffeur in good employ and
saving money. One day he fell in love, and when the girl
refused him he lost his temper and kicked her. On being
kicked the girl fell desperately in love with Henri, and
for a fortnight they lived together and spent a thousand
francs of Henri's money. Then the girl was unfaithful;
Henri planted a knife in her upper arm and was sent to
prison for six months. As soon as she had been stabbed
the girl fell more in love with Henri than ever, and the
two made up their quarrel and agreed that when Henri
came out of jail he should buy a taxi and they would
marry and settle down. But a fortnight later the girl was
unfaithful again, and when Henri came out she was with
child. Henri did not stab her again. He drew out all his
savings and went on a drinking-bout that ended in
another month's imprisonment; after that he went to
work in the sewers. Nothing would induce Henri to talk.
If you asked him why he worked in the sewers he never
answered, but simply crossed his wrists to signify
handcuffs, and jerked his head southward, towards the
prison. Bad luck seemed to have turned him half-witted
in a single day.
Or there was R., an Englishman, who lived six
months of the year in Putney with his parents and six
months in France. During his time in France he drank
four litres of wine a day, and six litres on Saturdays;
he had once travelled as far as the Azores, because the
wine there is cheaper than anywhere in Europe. He was a
gentle, domesticated creature, never rowdy or
quarrelsome, and never sober. He would lie in bed till
midday, and from then till midnight he was in his corner
of the bistro, quietly and methodically soaking. While he
soaked he talked, in a refined, womanish voice, about
antique furniture. Except myself, R. was the only
Englishman in the quarter.
There were plenty of other people who lived lives just
as eccentric as these: Monsieur Jules, the Roumanian,
who had a glass eye and would not admit it, Furex the
Limousin stonemason, Roucolle the miser -he died before
my time, though-old Laurent the rag-merchant, who used
to copy his signature from a slip of paper he carried in his
pocket. It would be fun to write some of their
biographies, if one had time. I am trying to describe the
people in our quarter, not for the mere curiosity, but
because they are all part of the story. Poverty is what I
am writing about, and I had my first contact with poverty
in this slum. The slum, with its dirt and its queer lives,
was first an object-lesson in poverty, and then the
background of my own experiences. It is for that reason
that I try to give some idea of what life was like there.
II
L I F E in the quarter. Our
bistro, for instance, at the
foot of the Hôtel des Trois Moineaux. A tiny brick-
floored room, half underground, with wine-sodden
tables, and a photograph of a funeral inscribed « Crédit
est mort »; and red-sashed workmen carving sausage
with big jack-knives; and Madame F., a splendid
Auvergnat peasant woman with the face of a strong-
minded cow, drinking Malaga all day " for her
stomach"; and games of dice for apéritifs; and songs
about «
Les Fraises et Les Framboises, » and about
Madelon, who said, "
Comment épouser un soldat, moi qui
aime tout le régiment?
»; and extraordinarily public love-
making. Half the hotel used to meet in the bistro in the
evenings. I wish one could find a pub in London a
quarter as cheery.
One heard queer conversations in the
bistro. As a
sample I give you Charlie, one of the local curiosities,
talking.
Charlie was a youth of family and education who
had run away from home and lived on occasional
remittances. Picture him very pink and young, with
the fresh cheeks and soft brown hair of a nice little
boy, and lips excessively red and wet, like cherries. His
feet are tiny, his arms abnormally short, his hands
dimpled like a baby's. He has a way of dancing and
capering while he talks, as though he were too happy
and too full of life to keep still for an instant. It is
three in the afternoon, and there is no one in the bistro
except Madame F. and one or two men who are out of
work; but it is all the same to Charlie whom he talks
to, so long as he can talk about himself. He declaims
like an orator on a barricade, rolling the words on his
tongue and gesticulating with his short arms. His
small, rather piggy eyes glitter with enthusiasm. He is,
somehow, profoundly disgusting to see.
He is talking of love, his favourite subject.
«
Ah, l'amour, l'amour! Ah, que les femmes m'ont tué!
Alas, messieurs et dames,
women have been my ruin,
beyond all hope my ruin. At twenty-two I am utterly
worn out and finished. But what things I have learned,
what abysses of wisdom have I not plumbed! How
great a thing it is to have acquired the true wisdom, to
have become in the highest sense of the word a
civilised man, to have become
raffiné, vicieux, » etc. etc.
"
Messieurs et dames, I perceive that you are sad. Ah,
mais la vie est belle-you must not be sad. Be more gay, I
beseech you!
"
Fill high ze bowl vid Saurian vine, Ve
vill not sink of semes like zese!
« Ah, que la vie est belle
! Listen,
messieurs et dames, out
of the fullness of my experience I will discourse to you
of love. I will explain to you what is the true meaning
of love-what is the true sensibility, the higher, more
refined pleasure which is known to civilised men alone.
I will tell you of the happiest day of my life. Alas, but I
am past the time when I could know such happiness as
that. It is gone for ever-the very possibility, even the
desire for it, are gone.
"Listen, then. It was two years ago; my brother was
in Paris-he is a lawyer-and my parents had told him to
find me and take me out to dinner. We hate each other,
my brother and I, but we preferred not to disobey my
parents. We dined, and at dinner he grew very drunk
upon three bottles of Bordeaux. I took him back to his
hotel, and on the way I bought a bottle of brandy, and
when we had arrived I made my brother drink a
tumberful of it-I told him it was something to make
him sober. He drank it, and immediately he fell down
like somebody in a fit, dead drunk. I lifted him up and
propped his back against the bed; then I went through
his pockets. I found eleven hundred francs, and with
that I hurried down the stairs, jumped into a taxi, and
escaped. My brother did not know my address -I was
safe.
"Where does a man go when he has money? To the
bordels
, naturally. But you do not suppose that I was
going to waste my time on some vulgar debauchery fit
only for navvies? Confound it, one is a civilised man! I
was fastidious, exigeant, you understand, with a
thousand francs in my pocket. It was midnight before I
found what I was looking for. I had fallen in with a very
smart youth of eighteen, dressed en smoking and with his
hair cut
à l'américaine, and we were talking in a quiet
bistro
away from the boulevards. We understood one
another well, that youth and I. We talked of this and
that, and discussed ways of diverting oneself. Presently
we took a taxi together and were driven away.
"The taxi stopped in a narrow, solitary street with a
single gas-lamp flaring at the end. There were dark
puddles among the stones. Down one side ran the high,
blank wall of a convent. My guide led me to a tall,
ruinous house with shuttered windows, and knocked
several times at the door. Presently there was a sound of
footsteps and a shooting of bolts, and the door opened a
little. A hand came round the edge of it; it was a large,
crooked hand, that held itself palm upwards under our
noses, demanding money.
"My guide put his foot between the door and the step.
'How much do you want?' he said.
" 'A thousand francs,' said a woman's voice. 'Pay up
at once or you don't come in.'
"I put a thousand francs into the hand and gave the
remaining hundred to my guide: he said good night and
left me. I could hear the voice inside counting the notes,
and then a thin old crow of a woman in a black dress
put her nose out and regarded me suspiciously before
letting me in. It was very dark inside: I could see
nothing except a flaring gas jet that illuminated a patch
of plaster wall, throwing everything else into
deeper shadow. There was a smell of rats and dust.
Without speaking, the old woman lighted a candle at the
gas jet, then hobbled in front of me down a stone
passage to the top of a flight of stone steps.
" '
Voilà!' she said; 'go down into the cellar there and
do what you like. I shall see nothing, hear nothing, know
nothing. You are free, you understand-perfectly free.'
"Ha,
messieurs, need I describe to you
forcément, you
know it yourselves-that shiver, half of terror and half of
joy, that goes through one at these moments? I crept
down, feeling my way; I could hear my breathing and the
scraping of my shoes on the stones, otherwise all was
silence. At the bottom of the stairs my hand met an
electric switch. I turned it, and a great electrolier of
twelve redglobes flooded the cellarwith a red light. And
behold, I was not in a cellar, but in a bedroom, a great,
rich, garish bedroom, coloured blood red from top to
bottom. Figure it to yourselves,
messieurs et dames! Red
carpet on the floor, red paper on the walls, red plush on
the chairs, even the ceiling red; everywhere red, burning
into the eyes. It was a heavy, stifling red, as though the
light were shining through bowls of blood. At the far end
stood a huge, square bed, with quilts red like the rest,
and on it a girl was lying, dressed in a frock of red velvet.
At the sight of me she shrank away and tried to hide her
knees under the short dress.
"I had halted by the door. 'Come here, my chicken,' I
called to her.
"She gave a whimper of fright. With a bound I was
beside the bed; she tried to elude me, but I seized her by
the throat-like this, do you see?-tight! She struggled, she
began to cry out for mercy, but I held her fast, forcing
back her head and staring down into her face. She was
twenty years old, perhaps; her face was the
broad, dull face of a stupid child, but it was coated
with paint and powder, and her blue, stupid eyes,
shining in the red light, wore that shocked, distorted
look that one sees nowhere save in the eyes of these
women. She was some peasant girl, doubtless, whom
her parents had sold into slavery.
"Without another word I pulled her off the bed and
threw her on to the floor. And then I fell upon her like
a tiger! Ah, the joy, the incomparable rapture of that
time! There,
messieurs et dames, is what I would expound to
you;
voilà (amour! There is the true love, there is the only
thing in the world worth striving for; there is the thing
beside which all your arts and ideals, all your
philosophies and creeds, all your fine words and high
attitudes, are as pale and profitless as ashes. When
one has experienced love-the true love-what is there in
the world that seems more than a mere ghost of joy?
"More and more savagely I renewed the attack.
Again and again the girl tried to escape; she cried out
for mercy anew, but I laughed at her.
" 'Mercy!' I said, 'do you suppose I have come here
to show mercy? Do you suppose I have paid a
thousand francs for that?' I swear to you, messieurs et
dames, that if it were not for that accursed law that robs
us of our liberty, I would have murdered her at that
moment.
« Ah, how she screamed, with what bitter cries of
agony. But there was no one to hear them; down there
under the streets of Paris we were as secure as at the
heart of a pyramid. Tears streamed down the girl's
face, washing away the powder in long, dirty smears.
Ah, that irrecoverable time! You,
messieurs et dames, you
who have not cultivated the finer sensibilities of love,
for you such pleasure is almost beyond conception.
And I too, now that my youth is gone-ah, youth!-
shall never again see life so beautiful as that. It
is finished.
« Ah yes, it is gone-gone for ever. Ah, the poverty,
the shortness, the disappointment of human joy! For
in reality-car
en réalité, what is the duration of the
supreme moment of love? It is nothing, an instant, a
second perhaps. A second of ecstasy, and after that-
dust, ashes, nothingness.
"And so, just for one instant, I captured the
supreme happiness, the highest and most refined
emotion to which human beings can attain. And in the
same moment it was finished, and I was left-to what?
All my savagery, my passion, were scattered like the
petals of a rose. I was left cold and languid, full. of
vain regrets; in my revulsion I even felt a kind of pity
for the weeping girl on the floor. Is it not nauseous,
that we should be the prey of such mean emotions? I
did not look at the girl again; my sole thought was to
get away. I hastened up the steps of the vault and out
into the street. It was dark and bitterly cold, the
streets were empty, the stones echoed under my heels
with a hollow, lonely ring. All my money was gone, I
had not even the price of a taxi fare. I walked back
alone to my cold, solitary room.
"But there,
messieurs et dames, that is what I promised
to expound to you. That is Love. That was the happiest
day of my life."
He was a curious specimen, Charlie. I describe
him, just to show what diverse characters could be
found flourishing in the Coq d'Or quarter.
III
I
L I V E D in the Coq d'Or quarter for about a year
and a half. One day, in summer, I found that I had just
four hundred and fifty francs left, and beyond this
nothing but thirty-six francs a week, which I earned by giving
English lessons. Hitherto I had not thought about the
future, but I now realised that I must do something at
once. I decided to start looking for a job, and-very
luckily, as it turned out-I took the precaution of paying
two hundred francs for a month's rent in advance. With
the other two hundred and fifty francs, besides the
English lessons, I could live a month, and in a month I
should probably find work. I aimed at becoming a guide
to one of the tourist companies, or perhaps an
interpreter. However, a piece of bad luck prevented this.
One day there turned up at the hotel a young Italian
who called himself a compositor. He was rather an am-
biguous person, for he wore side whiskers, which are
the mark either of an apache or an intellectual, and
nobody was quite certain in which class to put him.
Madame F. did not like the look of him, and made him
pay a week's rent in advance. The Italian paid the rent
and stayed six nights at the hotel. During this time he
managed to prepare some duplicate keys, and on the last
night he robbed a dozen rooms, including mine. Luckily,
he did not find the money that was in my pockets, so I
was not left penniless. I was left with just forty-seven
francs-that is, seven and tenpence.
This put an end to my plans of looking for work. I
had now got to live at the rate of about six francs a day,
and from the start it was too difficult to leave much
thought for anything else. It was now that my experi-
ences of poverty began-for six francs a day, if not actual
poverty, is on the fringe of it. Six francs is a shilling,
and you can live on a shilling a day in Paris if you know
how. But it is a complicated business.
It is altogether curious, your first contact with
poverty. You have thought so much about poverty - it
is the thing you have feared all your life, the thing you
knew would happen to you sooner or later; and it is all so
utterly and prosaically different. You thought it would be
quite simple; it is extraordinarily complicated. You
thought it would be terrible; it is merely squalid and
boring. It is the peculiar
lowness of poverty that you
discover first; the shifts that it puts you to, the
complicated meanness, the crust-wiping.
You discover, for instance, the secrecy attaching to
poverty. At a sudden stroke you have been reduced to an
income of six francs a day. But of course you dare not
admit it-you have got to pretend that you are living
quite as usual. From the start it tangles you in a net of
lies, and even with the lies you can hardly manage it.
You stop sending clothes to the laundry, and the
laundress catches you in the street and asks you why;
you mumble something, and she, thinking you are
sending the clothes elsewhere, is your enemy for life.
The tobacconist keeps asking why you have cut down
your smoking. There are letters you want to answer, and
cannot, because stamps are too expensive. And then
there are your meals-meals are the worst difficulty of
all. Every day at meal-times you go out, ostensibly to a
restaurant, and loaf an hour in the Luxembourg
Gardens, watching the pigeons. Afterwards you smuggle
your food home in your pockets. Your food is bread and
margarine, or bread and wine, and even the nature of the
food is governed by lies. You have to buy rye bread
instead of household bread, because the rye loaves,
though dearer, are round and can be smuggled in your
pockets. This wastes you a franc a day. Sometimes, to
keep up appearances, you have to spend sixty centimes
on a drink, and go correspondingly short of food. Your
linen gets filthy, and you run out of soap and razor-
blades. Your hair wants cutting, and you try to
cut it yourself, with such fearful results that you
have to go the barber after all, and spend the equivalent
of a day's food. All day you are telling lies, and
expensive lies.
You discover the extreme precariousness of your six
francs a day. Mean disasters happen and rob you of
food. You have spent your last eighty centimes on half a
litre of milk, and are boiling it over the spirit lamp.
While it boils a bug runs down your forearm; you give
the bug a flick with your nail, and it falls, plop! straight
into the milk. There is nothing for it but to throw the
milk away and go foodless.
You go to the baker's to buy a pound of bread, and
you wait while the girl cuts a pound for another cus-
tomer. She is clumsy, and cuts more than a pound.
"Pardon, monsieur," she says, "I suppose you don't mind
paying two sous extra?" Bread is a franc a pound, and
you have exactly a franc. When you think that you too
might be asked to pay two sous extra, and would have
to confess that you could not, you bolt in panic. It is
hours before you dare venture into a baker's shop again.
You go to the greengrocer's to spend a franc on a
kilogram of potatoes. But one of the pieces that make up
the franc is a Belgium piece, and the shopman refuses
it. You slink out of the shop, and can never go there
again.
You have strayed into a respectable quarter, and you
see a prosperous friend coming. To avoid him you dodge
into the nearest café. Once in the café you must buy
something, so you spend your last fifty centimes on a
glass of black coffee with a dead fly in it. One could
multiply these disasters by the hundred. They are part
of the process of being hard up.
You discover what it is like to be hungry. With bread
and margarine in your belly, you go out and look
into the shop windows. Everywhere there is food in-
sulting you in huge, wasteful piles; whole dead pigs,
baskets of hot loaves; great yellow blocks of butter,
strings of sausages, mountains of potatoes, vast Gruyère
cheeses like grindstones. A snivelling self-pity comes
over you at the sight of so much food. You plan to grab a
loaf and run, swallowing it before they catch you; and
you refrain, from pure funk.
You discover the boredom which is inseparable from
poverty; the times when you have nothing to do and,
being underfed, can interest yourself in nothing. For half
a day at a time you lie on your bed, feeling like the jeune
squelette in Baudelaire's poem. Only food could rouse
you. You discover that a man who has gone even a week
on bread and margarine is not a man any longer, only a
belly with a few accessory organs.
This-one could describe it further, but it is all in the
same style-is life on six francs a day. Thousands of
people in Paris live it-struggling artists and students,
prostitutes when their luck is out, out-of-work people of
all kinds. It is the suburbs, as it were, of poverty.
I continued in this style for about three weeks. The
forty-seven francs were soon gone, and I had to do what
I could on thirty-six francs a week from the English
lessons. Being inexperienced, I handled the money
badly, and sometimes I was a day without food. When
this happened I used to sell a few of my clothes, smug-
gling them out of the hotel in small packets and taking
them to a second-hand shop in the Rue de la Montagne
St. Geneviève. The shopman was a red-haired Jew, an
extraordinary disagreeable man, who used to fall into
furious rages at the sight of a client. From his manner
One would have supposed that we had done him some
injury by coming to him. « Merde! » he used to shout,
'you here again? What do you think this is? A soup
kitchen?" And he paid incredibly low prices. For a hat
which I had bought for twenty-five shillings and.
scarcely worn he gave five francs; for a good pair of
shoes, five francs; for shirts, a franc each. He always
preferred to exchange rather than buy, and he had a
trick of thrusting some useless article into one's hand
and then pretending that one had accepted it. Once I
saw him take a good overcoat from an old woman, put
two white billiard-balls into her hand, and then push
her rapidly out of the shop before she could protest. It
would have been a pleasure to flatten the Jew's nose, if
only one could have afforded it.
These three weeks were squalid and uncomfortable,
and evidently there was worse coming, for my rent
would be due before long. Nevertheless, things were not
a quarter as bad as I had expected. For, when you are
approaching poverty, you make one discovery which
outweighs some of the others. You discover boredom and
mean complications and the beginnings of hunger, but
you also discover the great redeeming feature of poverty:
the fact that it annihilates the future. Within certain
limits, it is actually true that the less money you have,
the less you worry. When you have a hundred francs in
the world you are liable to the most craven panics. When
you have only three francs you are quite indifferent; for
three francs will feed you till to-morrow, and you cannot
think further than that. You are bored, but you are not
afraid. You think vaguely, "I shall be starving in a day or
two-shocking, isn't it?" And then the mind wanders to
other topics. A bread and margarine diet does, to some
extent, provide its own anodyne.
And there is another feeling that is a great consola-
tion in poverty. I believe everyone who has been hard up
has experienced it. It is a feeling of relief, almost of
pleasure, at knowing yourself at last genuinely down
and out. You have talked so often of going to the dogs -
and well, here are the dogs, and you have reached them,
and you can stand it. It takes off a lot of anxiety.
IV
ONE day my English lessons ceased abruptly. The
weather was getting hot and one of my pupils, feeling
too lazy to go on with his lessons, dismissed me. The
other disappeared from his lodgings without notice,
owing me twelve francs. I was left with only thirty
centimes and no tobacco. For a day and a half I had
nothing to eat or smoke, and then, too hungry to put it
off any longer, I packed my remaining clothes into my
suitcase and took them to the pawnshop. This put an
end to all pretence of being in funds, for I could not take
my clothes out of the hotel without asking Madame F.'s
leave. I remember, however, how surprised she was at
my asking her instead of removing the clothes on the
sly, shooting the moon being a common trick in our
quarter.
It was the first time that I had been in a French
pawnshop. One went through grandiose stone portals
(marked, of course, «
Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité"-they
write that even over the police stations in France) into a
large, bare room like a school classroom, with a counter
and rows of benches. Forty or fifty people were waiting.
One handed one's pledge over the counter and sat down.
Presently, when the clerk had assessed its value he
would call out, « Numéro such and such, will you take
fifty francs?" Sometimes it was only fifteen francs, or
ten, or five-whatever it was, the whole room knew it.
As I came in the clerk called with an air of offence,
«
Numéro 83-here!" and gave a little whistle and a
beckon, as though calling a dog.
Numéro 83 stepped to
the counter; he was an old bearded man, with an over-
coat buttoned up at the neck and frayed trouser-ends.
Without a word the clerk shot the bundle across the
counter-evidently it was worth nothing. It fell to the
ground and came open, displaying four pairs of men's
woollen pants. No one could help laughing. Poor
Numéro
83 gathered up his pants and shambled out, muttering to
himself.
The clothes I was pawning, together with the suitcase,
had cost over twenty pounds, and were in good condition.
I thought they must be worth ten pounds, and a quarter
of this (one expects quarter value at a pawnshop) was
two hundred and fifty or three hundred francs. I waited
without anxiety, expecting two hundred francs at the
worst.
At last the clerk called my number: «
Numéro 97!"
"Yes," I said, standing up.
"Seventy francs?"
Seventy francs for ten pounds' worth of clothes! But it
was no use arguing; I had seen someone else attempt to
argue, and the clerk had instantly refused the pledge. I
took the money and the pawnticket and walked out. I
had now no clothes except what I stood up in-the coat
badly out at the elbow-an overcoat, moderately pawnable,
and one spare shirt. Afterwards, when it was too late, I
learned that it was wiser to go to a pawnshop in the
afternoon. The clerks are French, and, like most French
people, are in a bad temper till they have eaten their
lunch.
When I got home, Madame F. was sweeping the
bistro floor. She came up the steps to meet me. I could
see in her eye that she was uneasy about my rent.
"Well," she said, "what did you get for your clothes?
Not much, eh?"
"Two hundred francs," I said promptly.
"
Tiens!" she said, surprised; "well, that's not bad.
How expensive those English clothes must be!"
The lie saved a lot of trouble, and, strangely enough, it
came true. A few days later I did receive exactly two
hundred francs due to me for a newspaper article, and,
though it hurt to do it, I at once paid every penny of it in
rent. So, though I came near to starving in the following
weeks, I was hardly ever without a roof.
It was now absolutely necessary to find work, and I
remembered a friend of mine, a Russian waiter named
Boris, who might be able to help me. I had first met him
in the public ward of a hospital, where he was being
treated for arthritis in the left leg. He had told me to come
to him if I were ever in difficulties.
I must say something about Boris, for he was a
curious character and my close friend for a long time. He
was a big, soldierly man of about thirty-five, and had
been good-looking, but since his illness he had grown im-
mensely fat from lying in bed. Like most Russian
refugees, he had had an adventurous life. His parents,
killed in the Revolution, had been rich people, and he had
served through the war in the Second Siberian Rifles,
which, according to him, was the best regiment in the
Russian Army. After the war he had first worked in a
brush factory, then as a porter at Les Halles, then had
become a dishwasher, and had finally worked his way up
to be a waiter. When he fell ill he was at the Hôtel Scribe,
and taking a hundred francs a day in tips. His ambition
was to become a maitre d'hdtel, save fifty thousand
francs, and set up a small, select restaurant on the Right
Bank.
Boris always talked of the war as the happiest time
0f his life. War and soldiering were his passion; he
had read innumerable books 0f strategy and military
history, and could tell you all about the theories 0f
Napoleon, Kutuzof, Clausewitz, Moltke and Foch.
Anything to do with soldiers pleased him. His favourite
café was the Closerie des Lilas in Montparnasse,
simply because the statue 0f Marshal Ney stands
outside it. Later 0n, Boris and I sometimes went to the
Rue du Commerce together. If we went by Metro, Boris
always got out at Cambronne station instead 0f
Commerce, though Commerce was nearer; he liked the
association with General Cambronne, who was called
on to surrender at Waterloo, and answered simply,
«
Merde! »
The only things left to Boris by the Revolution were
his medals and some photographs of his old regiment;
he had kept these when everything else went to the
pawnshop. Almost every day he would spread the
photographs out on the bed and talk about them:
"
Voila, mon ami! There you see me at the head 0f my
company. Fine big men, eh? Not like these little rats 0f
Frenchmen. A captain at twenty-not bad, eh? Yes, a
captain in the Second Siberian Rifles; and my father
was a colonel.
«
Ah, mais, mon ami, the ups and downs of life! A
captain in the Russian Army, and then, piff! the Revo-
lution-every penny gone. In 1916 I stayed a week at the
Hotel Édouard Sept; in 1920 I was trying for a job as
night watchman there. I have been night watchman,
cellarman, floor scrubber, dishwasher, porter, lavatory
attendant. I have tipped waiters, and I have been
tipped by waiters.
« Ah, but I have known what it is to live like a
gentleman,
mon ami. I do not say it to boast, but the
other day I was trying to compute how many
mistresses I have had in my life, and I made it out to
be over two hundred. Yes, at least two hundred . . . Ah, well,
ca reviendra
. Victory is to him who fights the longest.
Courage!" etc. etc.
Boris had a queer, changeable nature. He always
wished himself back in the army, but he had also been
a waiter long enough t0 acquire the waiter's outlook.
Though he had never saved more than a few thousand
francs, he took it for granted that in the end he would
be able to set up his own restaurant and grow rich. All
waiters, I afterwards found, talk and think of this; it is
what reconciles them to being waiters. Boris used to
talk interestingly about hotel life:
"Waiting is a gamble," he used to say; "you may die
poor, you may make your fortune in a year. You are
not paid wages, you depend on tips-ten per cent. of the
bill, and a commission from the wine companies on
champagne corks. Sometimes the tips are enormous.
The barman at Maxim's, for instance, makes five
hundred francs a day. More than five hundred, in the
season. . . . I have made two hundred francs a day
myself. It was at a hotel in Biarritz, in the season. The
whole staff, from the manager down to the
plongeurs,
was working twenty-one hours a day. Twenty-one
hours' work and two and a half hours in bed, for a
month on end. Still, it was worth it, at two hundred
francs a day.
"You never know when a stroke of luck is coming.
Once when I was at the Hôtel Royal an American
customer sent for me before dinner and ordered
twentyfour brandy cocktails. I brought them all
together on a tray, in twenty-four glasses. 'Now,
garcon
,' said the customer (he was drunk), 'I'll drink
twelve and you'll drink twelve, and if you can walk to
the door afterwards you get a hundred francs.' I
walked to the door, and he gave me a hundred francs.
And every night for six days he did the same thing; twelve
brandy
cocktails, then a hundred francs. A few months later
I heard he had been extradited by the American
Governmentembezzlement. There is something fine, do
you not think, about these Americans?"
I liked Boris, and we had interesting times together,
playing chess and talking about war and hotels. Boris
used often to suggest that I should become a waiter.
"The life would suit you," he used to say; "when you are
in work, with a hundred francs a day and a nice mistress,
it's not bad. You say you go in for writing. Writing is
bosh. There is only one way to make money at writing,
and that is to marry a publisher's daughter. But you
would make a good waiter if you shaved that moustache
off. You are tall and you speak English those are the
chief things a waiter needs. Wait till I can bend this
accursed leg,
mon ami. And then, if you are ever out of
a job, come to me."
Now that I was short of my rent, and getting hungry,
I remembered Boris's promise, and decided to look him
up at once. I did not hope to become a waiter so easily
as he had promised, but of course I knew how to scrub
dishes, and no doubt he could get me a job in the
kitchen. He had said that dishwashing jobs were to be
had for the asking during the summer. It was a great
relief to remember that I had after all one influential
friend to fall back on.
V
A SHORT time before, Boris had given me an address
in the Rue du Marché des Blancs Manteaux. All he had
said in his letter was that "things were not marching too
badly," and I assumed that he was back
at the Hôtel Scribe, touching his hundred francs a
day. I was full of hope, and wondered why I had been
fool enough not to go to Boris before. I saw myself in a
cosy restaurant, with jolly cooks singing love-songs as
they broke eggs into the pan, and five solid meals a day.
I even squandered two francs-fifty on a packet of
Gaulois Bleu, in anticipation of my wages.
In the morning I walked down to the Rue du Marché
des Blancs Manteaux; with a shock, I found it a slummy
back street as bad as my own. Boris's hotel was the
dirtiest hotel in the street. From its dark doorway there
came out a vile, sour odour, a mixture of slops and
synthetic soup-it was Bouillon Zip, twenty-five
centimes a packet. A misgiving came over me. People
who drink Bouillon Zip are starving, or near it. Could
Boris possibly be earning a hundred francs a day? A
surly patron, sitting in the office, said to me, Yes, the
Russian was at home-in the attic. I went up six flights of
narrow, winding stairs, the Bouillon Zip growing
stronger as one got higher. Boris did not answer when I
knocked at his door, so I opened it and went in.
The room was an attic, ten feet square, lighted only
by a skylight, its sole furniture a narrow iron bedstead, a
chair, and a washhand-stand with one game leg. A long
S-shaped chain of bugs marched slowly across the wall
above the bed. Boris was lying asleep, naked, his large
belly making a mound under the grimy sheet. His chest
was spotted with insect bites. As I came in he woke up,
rubbed his eyes, and groaned deeply.
"Name of Jesus Christ!" he exclaimed, "oh, name of
Jesus Christ, my back! Curse it, I believe my back is
broken!"
"What's the matter?" I exclaimed.
"My back is broken, that is all. I have spent the night
on the floor. Oh, name of Jesus Christ! If you knew
what my back feels like!"
"My dear Boris, are you ill?"
"Not ill, only starving-yes, starving to death if this
goes on much longer. Besides sleeping on the floor, I
have lived on two francs a day for weeks past. It is
fearful. You have come at a bad moment, mon ami. »
It did not seem much use to ask whether Boris still
had his job at the Hôtel Scribe. I hurried downstairs
and bought a loaf of bread. Boris threw himself on the
bread and ate half of it, after which he felt better, sat
up in bed, and told me what was the matter with him.
He had failed to get a job after leaving the hospital,
because he was still very lame, and he had spent all
his money and pawned everything, and finally starved
for several days. He had slept a week on the quay
under the Pont d'Austerlitz, among some empty wine
barrels. For the past fortnight he had been living in
this room, together with a Jew, a mechanic. It -
appeared (there was some complicated explanation)
that the Jew owed Boris three hundred francs, and
was repaying this by letting him sleep on the floor and
allowing him two francs a day for food. Two francs
would buy a bowl of coffee and three rolls. The Jew
went to work at seven in the mornings, and after that
Boris would leave his sleepingplace (it was beneath the
skylight, which let in the rain) and get into the bed. He
could not sleep much even there owing to the bugs,
but it rested his back after the floor.
It was a great disappointment, when I had come to
Boris for help, to find him even worse off than myself. I
explained that I had only about sixty francs left and
must get a job immediately. By this time, however,
Boris had eaten the rest of the bread and was feeling
cheerful and talkative. He said carelessly:
"Good heavens, what are you worrying about? Sixty
francs-why, it's a fortune! Please hand me that shoe,
mon ami. I'm going to smash some of those bugs if they
come within reach."
"But do you think there's any chance of getting a
job?"
"Chance? It's a certainty. In fact, I have got some-
thing already. There is a new Russian restaurant which
is to open in a few days in the Rue du Commerce. It is
une chose entendue
that I am to be
maitre d'hôtel. I can
easily get you a job in the kitchen. Five hundred francs
a month and your food-tips, too, if you are lucky."
"But in the meantime? I've got to pay my rent before
long."
"Oh, we shall find something. I have got a few cards
up my sleeve. There are people who owe me money, for
"instance-Paris is full of them. One of them is bound to
pay up before long. Then think of all the women who
have been my mistress! A woman never forgets, you
know-I have only to ask and they will help me. 'Besides,
the Jew tells me he is going to steal some magnetos
from the garage where he works, and he will pay us five
francs a day to clean them before he sells them. That
alone would keep us. Never worry, mon ami. Nothing is
easier to get than money."
"Well, let's go out now and look for a job."
"Presently, mon ami. We shan't starve, don't you fear.
This is only the fortune of war-I've been in a worse hole
scores of times. It's only a question of persisting.
Remember Foch's maxim: '
Attaquez! Attaquez! Attaquez!' "
It was midday before Boris decided to get up. All the
clothes he now had left were one suit, with one shirt,
collar and tie, a pair of shoes almost worn out, and a
pair of socks all holes. He had also an overcoat which
was to be pawned in the last extremity. He had
a suitcase, a wretched twenty-franc carboard thing, but
very important, because the
patron of the hotel believed
that it was full of clothes-without that, he would
probably have turned Boris out of doors. What it
actually contained were the medals and photographs,
various odds and ends, and huge bundles of loveletters.
In spite of all this Boris managed to keep a fairly smart
appearance. He shaved without soap and with a razor-
blade two months old, tied his tie so that the holes did
not show, and carefully stuffed the soles of his shoes
with newspaper. Finally, when he was dressed, he
produced an ink-bottle and inked the skin of his ankles
where it showed through his socks. You would never
have thought, when it was finished, that he had recently
been sleeping under the Seine bridges.
We went to a small café off the Rue de Rivoli, a well-
known rendezvous of hotel managers and employees. At
the back was a, dark, cave-like room where all kinds of
hotel workers were sitting-smart young waiters, others
not so smart and clearly hungry, fat pink cooks, greasy
dishwashers, battered old scrubbing-women. Everyone
had an untouched glass of black coffee in front of him.
The place was, in effect, an employment bureau, and the
money spent on drinks was the patron's commission.
Sometimes a stout, importantlooking man, obviously a
restaurateur, would come in and speak to the barman,
and the barman would call to one of the people at the
back of the café. But he never called to Boris or me, and
we left after two hours, as the etiquette was that you
could only stay two hours for one drink. We learned
afterwards, when it was too late, that the dodge was to
bribe the barman; if you could afford twenty francs he
would generally get you a job.
We went to the Hôtel Scribe and waited an hour on
the pavement, hoping that the manager would come
out, but he never did. Then we dragged ourselves down
to the Rue du Commerce, only to find that the new
restaurant, which was being redecorated, was shut up
and the
patron away. It was now night. We had walked
fourteen kilometres over pavement, and we were so
tired that we had to waste one franc-fifty on going
home by Metro. Walking was agony to Boris with his game
leg,
and his optimism wore thinner and thinner as the day
went on. When he got out of the Metro at the Place
d'Italie he was in despair. He began to say that it was
no use looking for work-there was nothing for it but to
try crime.
"Sooner rob than starve,
mon ami. I have often
planned it. A fat, rich American-some dark corner
down Montparnasse way-a cobblestone in a stocking -
bang! And then go through his pockets and bolt. It is
feasible, do you not think? I would not flinch-I have
been a soldier, remember."
He decided against the plan in the end, because we
were both foreigners and easily recognised.
When we had got back to my room we spent another
one franc-fifty on bread and chocolate. Boris devoured
his share, and at once cheered up like magic; food
seemed to act on his system as rapidly as a cocktail. He
took out a pencil and began making a list of the people
who would probably give us jobs. There were dozens
of them, he said.
"To-morrow we shall find something,
mon ami, I
know it in my bones. The luck always changes. Besides,
we both have brains-a man with brains can't starve.
"What things a man can do with brains! Brains will =-
make money out of anything. I had a friend once, a
Pole, a real man of genius; and what do you think he
used to do? He would buy a gold ring and pawn it for
fifteen francs. Then-you know how carelessly the clerks
fill up the tickets-where the clerk had written ' en or' he
would add '
et diamants' and he would change 'fifteen
francs' to 'fifteen thousand.' Neat, eh? Then, you see,
he could borrow a thousand francs on the security of the
ticket. That is what I mean by brains . . ."
For the rest of the evening Boris was in a hopeful
mood, talking of the times we should have together
when we were waiters together at Nice or Biarritz, with
smart rooms and enough money to set up mistresses. He
was too tired to walk the three kilometres back to his
hotel, and slept the night on the floor of my room, with
his coat rolled round his shoes for a pillow.
VI
WE again failed to find work the next day, and it was
three weeks before the luck changed. My two hundred
francs saved me from trouble about the rent, but
everything else went as badly as possible. Day after day
Boris and I went up and down Paris, drifting at two
miles an hour through the crowds, bored and hungry,
and finding nothing. One day, I remember, we crossed
the Seine eleven times. We loitered for hours outside
service doorways, and when the manager came out we
would go up to him ingratiatingly, cap in hand. We
always got the same answer: they did not want a lame
man, nor a man without experience. Once we were very
nearly engaged. While we spoke to the manager Boris
stood straight upright, not supporting himself with his
stick, and the manager did not see that he was lame.
"Yes," he said, "we want two men in the cellars.
Perhaps you would do. Come inside." Then Boris
moved, the game was up. « Ah, » said the manager,
"you limp.
Malheureusement---
"
We enrolled our names at agencies and answered
advertisements,_ but walking everywhere made us
slow, and we seemed to miss every job by half an
hour. Once we very nearly got a job swabbing out
railway trucks, but at the last moment they rejected us
in favour of Frenchmen. Once we answered an
advertisement calling for hands at a circus. You had to
shift benches and clean up litter, and, during the
performance, stand on two tubs and let a lion jump
through your legs. When we got to the place, an hour
before the time named, we found a queue of fifty men
already waiting. There is some attraction in lions,
evidently.
Once an agency to which I had applied months
earlier sent me a
petit bleu, telling me of an Italian
gentleman who wanted English lessons. The
petit bleu
said "Come at once" and promised twenty francs an
hour. Boris and I were in despair. Here was a splendid
chance, and I could not take it, for it was impossible to
go to the agency with my coat out at the elbow. Then it
occurred to us that I could wear Boris's coat-it did did
not match my trousers, but the trousers were grey and
might pass for flannel at a short distance. The coat was
so much too big for me that I had to wear it unbuttoned
and keep one hand in my pocket. I hurried out, and
wasted seventy-five centimes on a bus fare to get to the
agency. When I got there I found that the Italian had
changed his mind and left Paris.
Once Boris suggested that I should go to Les Halles
and try for a job as a porter. I arrived at half-past four
the morning, when the work was getting into its swing.
Seeing a short, fat man in a bowler hat directing some
porters, I went up to him and asked for work.
Before answering he seized my right hand and felt the palm.
"You are strong, eh?" he said.
"Very strong," I said untruly.
"
Bien. Let me see you lift that crate."
It was a huge wicker basket full of potatoes. I took
hold of it, and found that, so far from lifting it, I could
not even move it. The man in the bowler hat watched
me, then shrugged his shoulders and turned away. I
made off When I had gone some distance I looked
back and saw
four men lifting the basket on to a cart.
It weighed three hundredweight, possibly. The man
had seen that I was no use, and taken this way of
getting rid of me.
Sometimes in his hopeful moments Boris spent
fifty centimes on a stamp and wrote to one of his ex-
mistresses, asking for money. Only one of them ever
replied. It was a woman who, besides having been
his mistress, owed him two hundred francs. When
Boris saw the letter waiting and recognised the
handwriting, he was wild with hope. We seized the
letter and rushed up to Boris's room to read it, like a
child with stolen sweets. Boris read the letter, then
handed it silently to me. It ran:
MY LITTLE CHERISHED WOOLF,-- With what delight did I
open thy charming letter, reminding me of the days of our
perfect love, and of the so dear kisses which I have received
from thy lips. Such memories linger for ever in the heart, like
the perfume of a flower that is dead.
"As to thy request for two hundred francs, alas! it is
impossible. Thou dost not know, my dear one, how I am
desolated to hear of thy embarrassments. But what wouldst
thou? In this life which is so sad, trouble comes to everyone. I
too have had my share. My little sister has been ill (ah, the
poor little one, how she suffered!) and we are obliged to pay I
know not what to the doctor. All our money is gone and we
are passing, I assure thee, very difficult days.
"Courage, my little wolf, always the courage! Remember that
the bad days are not for ever, and the trouble which seems so
terrible will disappear at last.
"Rest assured, my dear one, that I will remember thee always.
And receive the most sincere embraces of her who has never
ceased to love thee, thy
"YVONNE."
This letter disappointed Boris so much that he went
straight to bed and would not look for work again that
day.
My sixty francs lasted about a fortnight. I had
given up the pretence of going out to restaurants, and
we used to eat in my room, one of us sitting on the
bed and the other on the chair. Boris would contribute
his two francs and I three or four francs, and we
would buy bread, potatoes, milk and cheese, and make
soup over my spirit lamp. We had a saucepan and a
coffee-bowl and one spoon; every day there was a
polite squabble as to who should eat out of the
saucepan and who out of the coffee-bowl (the
saucepan held more), and every day, to my secret
anger, Boris gave in first and had the saucepan.
Sometimes we had more bread in the evening,
sometimes not. Our linen was getting filthy, and it
was three weeks since I had had a bath; Boris, so he
said, had not had a bath for months. It was tobacco
that made everything tolerable. We had plenty of
tobacco, for some time before Boris had met a soldier
(the soldiers are given their tobacco free) and bought
twenty or thirty packets at fifty centimes each.
All this was far worse for Boris than for me. The
walking and sleeping on the floor kept his leg and
back in constant pain, and with his vast Russian
appetite he suffered torments of hunger, though he
never seemed to grow thinner. On the whole he was
surprisingly gay, and he had vast capacities for hope.
He used to say seriously that he had a patron saint who
watched over him, and when things were very bad he would
search the gutter for money, saying that the saint often
dropped a two-franc piece there. One day we were waiting
in the Rue Royale; there was a Russian retaurant near by,
and we were going to ask for a job there. Suddenly, Boris
made up his mind to go into the Madeleine and burn a
fifty-centime candle to his patron saint. Then, coming
out, he said that he would be on the safe side, and
solemnly put a match to a fifty-centime stamp, as a
sacrifice to the immortal gods. Perhaps the gods and the
saints did not get on together; at any rate, we missed the
job.
On some mornings Boris collapsed in the most utter
despair. He would lie in bed almost weeping, cursing the
Jew with whom he lived. Of late the Jew had become
restive about paying the daily two francs, and, what was
worse, had begun putting on intolerable airs of
patronage. Boris said that I, as an Englishman, could not
conceive what torture it was to a Russian of family to be
at the mercy of a Jew.
"A Jew,
mon ami, a veritable Jew! And he hasn't even
the decency to be ashamed of it. To think that I, a
captain in the Russian Army-have I ever told you, mon
ami, that I was a captain in the Second Siberian Rifles?
Yes, a captain, and my father was a colonel. And here I
am, eating the bread of a Jew. A Jew ...
"I will tell you what Jews are like. Once, in the early
months of the war, we were on the march, and we had
halted at a village for the night. A horrible old Jew, with
a red beard like Judas Iscariot, came sneaking up to my
billet. I asked him what he wanted. 'Your honour,' he
said, 'I have brought a girl for you, a beautiful young
girl only seventeen. It will only be fifty francs.' 'Thank
you,' I said, 'you can take her away again. I don't want
to catch any diseases.' 'Diseases!'
cried the Jew, mais,
monsieur le capitaine, there's no fear
of that. It's my own daughter!' That is the Jewish
national character for you.
"Have I ever told you,
mon ami, that in the old Russian
Army,it was considered bad form to spit on a Jew? Yes,
we thought a Russian officer's spittle was too precious to
be wasted on Jews . . ." etc. etc.
On these days Boris usually declared himself too ill to
go out and look for work. He would lie till evening in the
greyish, verminous sheets, smoking and reading old
newspapers. Sometimes we played chess. We had no
board, but we wrote down the moves on a piece of paper,
and afterwards we made a board from the side of a
packing-case, and a set of men from buttons, Belgian
coins and the like. Boris, like many Russians, had a
passion for chess. It was a saying of his that the rules of
chess are the same as the rules of love and war, and that
if you can win at one you can win at the others. But he
also said that if you have a chessboard you do not mind
being hungry, which was certainly not true in my case.
VII
MY MONEY oozed away-to eight francs, to four
francs, to one franc, to twenty-five centimes; and twenty-
five centimes is useless, for it will buy nothing except a
newspaper. We went several days on dry bread, and then
I was two and a half days with nothing to eat whatever.
This was an ugly experience. There are people who do
fasting cures of three weeks or more, and they say that
fasting is quite pleasant after the fourth day; I do not
know, never having gone beyond the third day. Probably
it seems different when one is doing it voluntarily and is
not underfed at the start.
The first day, too inert to look for work, I borrowed a
rod and went fishing in the Seine, baiting with blue-
bottles. I hoped to catch enough for a meal, but of course
I did not. The Seine is full of dace, but they grew cunning
during the seige of Paris, and none of
them has been
caught since, except in nets. On the second day I thought
of pawning my overcoat, but it seemed too far to walk to
the pawnshop, and I spent the day in bed, reading the
Memoirs of Sherlock Holmes
. It was all that I felt equal to,
without food. Hunger reduces one to an utterly spineless,
brainless condition, more like the after-effects of
influenza than anything else. It is as though one had been
turned into a jellyfish, or as though all one's blood had
been pumped out and luke-warm water substituted.
Complete inertia is my chief memory of hunger; that, and
being obliged to spit very frequently, and the spittle
being curiously white and flocculent, like cuckoo-spit. I
do not know the reason for this, but everyone who has
gone hungry several days has noticed it.
On the third morning I felt very much better. I
realised that I must do something at once, and I decided
to go and ask Boris to let me share his two francs, at
any rate for a day or two. When I arrived I found Boris
in bed, and furiously angry. As soon as I came in he
burst out, almost choking:
"He has taken it back, the dirty thief! He has taken it
back!"
"Who's taken what?" I said.
"The Jew! Taken my two francs, the dog, the thief! He
robbed me in my sleep!"
It appeared that on the previous night the Jew had
flatly refused to pay the daily two francs. They had
argued and argued, and at last the Jew had consented to
hand over the money; he had done it, Boris said, in
the most offensive manner, making a little speech
about how kind he was, and extorting abject gratitude.
And then in the morning he had stolen the money back
before Boris was awake.
This was a blow. I was horribly disappointed, for I
had allowed my belly to expect food, a great mistake
when one is hungry. However, rather to my surprise,
Boris was far from despairing. He sat up in bed,
lighted his pipe and reviewed the situation.
"Now listen,
mon-ami, this is a tight corner. We have
only twenty-five centimes between us, and I don't
suppose the Jew will ever pay my two francs again. In
any case his behaviour is becoming intolerable. Will
you believe it, the other night he had the indecency to
bring a woman in here, while I was there on the floor.
The low animal! And I have a worse thing to tell you.
The Jew intends clearing out of here. He owes a week's
rent, and his idea is to avoid paying that and give me the
slip at the same time. If the Jew shoots the moon I shall
be left without a roof, and the
patron will will take my
suitcase in lieu of rent, curse him! We have got to make
a vigorous move."
"All right. But what can we do? It seems to me that
the only thing is to pawn our overcoats and get some
food."
"We'll do that, of course, but I must get my posses-
sions out of this house first. To think of my photographs
being seized! Well, my plan is ready. I'm going to
forestall the Jew and shoot the moon myself. F-----
le
camp
-retreat, you understand. I think that is the correct
move, eh?"
"But, my dear Boris, how can you, in daytime? You're
bound to be caught."
« Ah well, it will need strategy, of course. Our
patron
is on the watch for people slipping out without paying
their rent; he's been had that way before. He and his
wife take it in turns all day to sit in the office-what
misers, these Frenchmen! But I have thought of a way
to do it, if you will help."
I did not feel in a very helpful mood, but I asked
Boris what his plan was. He explained it carefully.
"Now listen. We must start by pawning our overcoats.
First go back to your room and fetch your overcoat, then
come back here and fetch mine, and smuggle it out under
cover of yours. Take them to the pawnshop in the Rue
des Francs Bourgeois. You ought to get twenty francs
for the two, with luck. Then go down to the Seine bank
and fill your pockets with stones, and bring them back
and put them in my suitcase. You see the idea? I shall
wrap as many of my things as I can carry in a
newspaper, and go down and ask the patron the way to
the nearest laundry. I shall be very brazen and casual,
you understand, and of course the patron will think the
bundle is nothing but dirty linen. Or, if he does suspect
anything, he will do what he always does, the mean
sneak; he will go up to my room and feel the weight of
my suitcase. And when he feels the weight of stones he
will think it is still full. Strategy, eh? Then afterwards I
can come back and carry my other things out in my
pockets."
"But what about the suitcase?"
"Oh, that? We shall have to abandon it. The miser-
able thing only cost about twenty francs. Besides, one
always abandons something in a retreat. Look at
Napoleon at the Beresina! He abandoned his whole
army."
Boris was so pleased with this scheme (he called it
une
ruse de guerre
) that he almost forgot being hungry. Its
main weakness-that he would have nowhere to sleep
after shooting the moon-he ignored.
At first the
ruse de guerre worked well. I went home
and fetched my overcoat (that made already nine kilo-
metres, on an empty belly) and smuggled Boris's coat
out successfully. Then a hitch occured. The receiver at
the pawnshop, a nasty, sour-faced interfering, little
man-a typical French official-refused the coats on the
ground that they were not wrapped up in anything. He
said that they must be put either in a valise or a
carboard box. This spoiled everything, for we had no
box of any kind, and with only twenty-five centimes
between us we could not buy one.
I went back and told Boris the bad news. "
Merde!" he
said, "that makes it awkward. Well, no matter, there is
always a way. We'll put the overcoats in my suitcase."
"But how are we to get the suitcase past the
patron?
He's sitting almost in the door of the office. It's
impossible!"
"How easily you despair,
mon ami! Where is that
English obstinacy that I have read of? Courage! We'll
manage it."
Boris thought for a little while, and then produced
another cunning plan. The essential difficulty was to
hold the
patron's attention for perhaps five seconds,
while we could slip past with the suitcase. But, as it
happened, the
patron had just one weak spot-that he was
interested in
Le Sport, and was ready to talk if you
approached him on this subject. Boris read an article
about bicycle races in an old copy of the
Petit Parisien,
and then, when he had reconnoitred the stairs, went
down and managed to set the
patron talking. Meanwhile,
I waited at the foot of the stairs, with the overcoats
under one arm and the suitcase under the other. Boris
was to give a cough when he thought the moment
favourable. I waited trembling, for at any moment the
patron's
wife might come out of the door opposite the
office, and then the game was up. However, presently
Boris coughed. I sneaked rapidly past the office and out
into the street, rejoicing that my shoes did not creak. The
plan might have failed if Boris had been thinner, for his
big shoulders blocked the doorway of the office. His nerve
was splendid, too; he went on laughing and talking in the
most casual way, and so loud that he quite covered any
noise I made. When I was well away he came and joined
me round the corner, and we bolted.
And then, after all our trouble, the receiver at the
pawnshop again refused the overcoats. He told me (one
could see his French soul revelling in the pedantry of it)
that I had not sufficient papers of identification; my
carte
d'identité
was not enough, and I must show a passport or
addressed envelopes. Boris had addressed envelopes by
the score, but his
carte d'identité was out of order (he
never renewed it, so as to avoid the tax), so we could not
pawn the overcoats in his name. All we could do was to
trudge up to my room, get the necessary papers, and
take the coats to the pawnshop in the Boulevard Port
Royal.
I left Boris at my room and went down to the pawn-
shop. When I got there I found that it was shut and
would not open till four in the afternoon. It was now
about half-past one, and I had walked twelve kilometres
and had no food for sixty hours. Fate seemed to be
playing a series of extraordinarily unamusing jokes.
Then the luck changed as though by a miracle. I was
walking home through the Rue Broca when suddenly,
glittering on the cobbles, I saw a five-sou piece. I
pounced on it, hurried home, got our other five-sou piece
and bought a pound of potatoes. There was only enough
alcohol in the stove to parboil them, and we
had no salt, but we wolfed them, skins and all. After
that we felt like new men, and sat playing chess till the
pawnshop opened.
At four o'clock I went back to the pawnshop. I was
not hopeful, for if I had only got seventy francs before,
what could I expect for two shabby overcoats in a
cardboard suitcase? Boris had said twenty francs, but I
thought it would be ten francs, or even five. Worse yet, I
might be refused altogether, like poor
Numéro 83 on the
previous occasion. I sat on the front bench, so as not to
see people laughing when the clerk said five francs.
At last the clerk called my number: «
Numéro 117 !"
"Yes," I said, standing up.
"Fifty francs?"
It was almost as great a shock as the seventy francs
had been the time before. I believe now that the clerk
had mixed my number up with someone else's, for one
could not have sold the coats outright for fifty francs. I
hurried home and walked into my room with my hands
behind my back, saying nothing. Boris was playing with
the chessboard. He looked up eagerly.
"What did you get?" he exclaimed. "What, not twenty
francs? Surely you got ten francs, anyway?
Nom de Dieu,
five francs-that is a bit too thick.
Mon ami, don't say it
was five francs. If you say it was five francs I shall really
begin to think of suicide."
I threw the fifty-franc note on to the table. Boris
turned white as chalk, and then, springing up, seized my
hand and gave it a grip that almost broke the bones. We
ran out, bought bread and wine, a piece of meat and
alcohol for the stove, and gorged.
After eating, Boris became more optimistic than I had
ever known him. "What did I tell you?" he said. "The
fortune of war! This morning with five sous, and
now look at us. I have always said it, there is nothing
easier to get than money. And that reminds me, I have a
friend in the Rue Fondary whom we might go and see.
He has cheated me of four thousand francs, the thief. He
is the greatest thief alive when he is sober, but it is a
curious thing, he is quite honest when he is drunk. I
should think he would be drunk by six in the evening.
Let's go and find him. Very likely he will pay up a
hundred on account.
Merde! He might pay two hundred.
Allons y!"
We went to the Rue Fondary and found the man, and
he was drunk, but we did not get our hundred francs. As
soon as he and Boris met there was a terrible altercation
on the pavement. The other man declared that he did not
owe Boris a penny, but that on the contrary Boris owed
him
four thousand francs, and both of them kept
appealing to me for my opinion. I never understood the
rights of the matter. The two argued and argued, first in
the street, then in a bistro, then in a
prix fixe restaurant
where we went for dinner, then in another
bistro.
Finally, having called one another thieves for two hours,
they went off together on a drinking bout that finished
up the last sou of Boris's money.
Boris slept the night at the house of a cobbler,
another Russian refugee, in the Commerce quarter.
Meanwhile, I had eight francs left, and plenty of
cigarettes, and was stuffed to the eyes with food and
drink. It was a marvellous change for the better after two
bad days.
VIII
WE had now twenty-eight francs in hand, and could
start looking for work once more. Boris was still
sleeping, on some mysterious terms, at the house of the
cobbler, and he had managed to borrow another twenty
francs from a Russian friend. He had friends, mostly
exofficers like himself, here and there all over Paris.
Some were waiters or dishwashers, some drove taxis, a
few lived on women, some had managed to bring
money away from Russia and owned garages or
dancing-halls. In general, the Russian refugees in Paris
are hard-working people, and have put up with their
bad luck far better than one can imagine Englishmen
of the same class doing. There are exceptions, of
course. Boris told me of an exiled Russian duke whom
he had once met, who frequented expensive
restaurants. The duke would find out if there was a
Russian officer among the waiters, and, after he had
dined, call him in a friendly way to his table.
« Ah, » the duke would say,
"so you are an old
soldier, like myself? These are bad days, eh? Well, well,
the Russian soldier fears nothing. And what was your
regiment?"
"The so-and-so, sir," the waiter would answer.
"A very gallant regiment! I inspected them in 1912.
By the way, I have unfortunately left my notecase at
home. A Russian officer will, I know, oblige me with
three hundred francs."
If the waiter had three hundred francs he would hand
it over, and, of course, never see it again. The duke
made quite a lot in this way. Probably the waiters did
not mind being swindled. A duke is a duke, even in
exile.
It was through one of these Russian refugees that
Boris heard of something which seemed to promise
money. Two days after we had pawned the overcoats,
Boris said to me rather mysteriously:
"Tell me,
mon ami, have you any political opinions?"
"No," I said.
" Neither have I. Of course, one is always a patriot;
but still--- Did not Moses say something about spoiling
the Egyptians? As an Englishman you will have read
the Bible. What I mean is, would you object to earning
money from Communists?"
"No, of course not."
"Well, it appears that there is a Russian secret
society in Paris who might do something for us. They
are Communists; in fact they are agents for the Bol-
sheviks. They act as a friendly society, get in touch
with exiled Russians, and try to get them to turn
Bolshevik. My friend has joined their society, and he
thinks they would help us if we went to them."
"But what can they do for us? In any case they
won't help me, as I'm not a Russian."
"That is just the point. It seems that they are corre-
spondents for a Moscow paper, and they want some
articles on English politics. If we go to them at once
they may commission you to write the articles."
"Me? But I don't know anything about politics."
«
Merde! Neither do they. Who does know anything
about politics? It's easy. All you have to do is to copy it
out of the English papers. Isn't there a Paris
Daily Mail?
Copy it from that."
"But the
Daily Mail is a Conservative paper. They
loathe the Communists."
"Well, say the opposite of what the
Daily Mail says,
then you
can't be wrong. We mustn't throw this chance
away,
mon ami. It might mean hundreds of francs"
I did not like the idea, for the Paris police are very
hard on Communists, especially if they are foreigners,
and I was already under suspicion. Some months
before, a detective had seen me come out of the office
of a Communist weekly paper, and I had had a great
deal of trouble with the police. If they caught me going
to this secret society, it might mean deportation. However,
the chance seemed too good to be missed. That after-
noon Boris's friend, another waiter, came to take us to
the rendezvous. I cannot remember the name of the
street-it was a shabby street running south from the
Seine bank, somewhere near the Chamber of Deputies.
Boris's friend insisted on great caution. We loitered
casually down the street, marked the doorway we were
to enter-it was a laundry-and then strolled back again,
keeping an eye on all the windows and cafés. If the
place were known as a haunt of Communists it was
probably watched, and we intended to go home if we
saw anyone at all like a detective. I was frightened, but
Boris enjoyed these conspiratorial proceedings, and
quite forgot that he was about to trade with the slayers
of his parents.
.
When we were certain that the coast was clear we
dived quickly into the doorway. In the laundry was a
Frenchwoman ironing clothes, who told us that "the
Russian gentlemen" lived up a staircase across the
courtyard. We went up several flights of dark stairs
and emerged on to a landing. A strong, surly-looking
young man, with hair growing low on his head, was
standing at the top of the stairs. As I came up he
looked at me suspiciously, barred the way with his
arm and said something in Russian.
"
Mot d'ordre! » he said sharply when I did not
answer.
I stopped, startled. I had not expected passwords.
"
Mot d'ordre! » repeated the Russian.
Boris's friend, who was walking behind, now came
forward and said something in Russian, either the pass
word or an explanation. At this, the surly young man
seemed satisfied, and led us into a small, shabby room
with frosted windows. It was like a very poverty-
stricken office, with propaganda posters in Russian
lettering and a huge, crude picture of Lenin tacked on
the walls. At the table sat an unshaven Russian in shirt
sleeves, addressing newspaper wrappers from a pile in
front of him. As I came in he spoke to me in French,
with a bad accent.
"This is very careless!" he exclaimed fussily. "Why
have you come here without a parcel of washing?"
"Washing?"
"Everybody who comes here brings washing. It looks
as though they were going to the laundry downstairs.
Bring a good, large bundle next time. We don't want the
police on our tracks."
This was even more conspiratorial than I had ex-
pected. Boris sat down in the only vacant chair, and
there was a great deal of talking in Russian. Only the
unshaven man talked; the surly one leaned against the
wall with his eyes on me, as though he still suspected
me. It was queer, standing in the little secret room with
its revolutionary posters, listening to a conversation
which I did not understand a word. The Russians of
talked quickly and eagerly, with smiles and shrugs of the
shoulders. I wondered what it was all about. They would
be calling each other "little father," I thought, and "little
dove," and « Ivan Àlexandrovitch," like the characters in
Russian novels. And the talk would be of revolutions.
The unshaven man would be saying firmly, "We never
argue. Controversy is a bourgeois pastime. Deeds are our
arguments." Then I gathered that it was not this exactly.
Twenty francs was being demanded, for an entrance fee
apparently, and Boris was promising to pay it (we had
just seventeen francs in the world). Finally Boris
produced our precious store of money and paid five
francs on account.
At this the surly man looked less suspicious, and sat
down on the edge of the table. The unshaven one began
to question me in French, making notes on a slip of
paper. Was I a Communist? he asked. By sympathy, I
answered; I had never joined any organisation. Did I
understand the political situation in England? Oh, of
course, of course. I mentioned the names of various
Ministers, and made some contemptuous remarks about
the Labour Party. And what about
Le Sport? Could I do
articles on
Le Sport? (Football and Socialism have some
mysterious connection on the Continent.) Oh, of
course, again. Both men nodded gravely. The unshaven
one said:
"
Evidemment, you have a thorough knowledge of
conditions in England. Could you undertake to write a
series of articles for a Moscow weekly paper? We will
give you the particulars."
"Certainly."
"Then, comrade, you will hear from us by the first
post to-morrow. Or possibly the second post. Our rate of
pay is a hundred and fifty francs an article. Remember to
bring a parcel of washing next time you come. Au
revoir, comrade."
We went downstairs, looked carefully out of the
laundry to see if there was anyone in the street, and
slipped out. Boris was wild with joy. In a sort of sacri-
ficial ecstasy he rushed into the nearest tobacconist's
and spent fifty centimes on a cigar. He came out thump-
ing his stick on the pavement and beaming.
"At last! At last! Now,
mon ami, our fortune really
is made. You took them in finely. Did you hear him
call you comrade? A hundred and fifty francs an
article-
nom de Dieu, what luck!"
Next morning when I heard the postman I rushed
down to the bistro for my letter; to my disappointment,
it had not come. I stayed at home for the second post;
still no letter. When three days had gone by and I had 4
not heard from the secret society, we gave up hope,
deciding that they must have found somebody else to do
their articles.
Ten days later we made another visit to the office of
the secret society, taking care to bring a parcel that
looked like washing. And the secret society had van-
ished! The woman in the laundry knew nothing-she
simply said that «
ces messieurs" had left some days
ago, after trouble about the rent. What fools we looked,
standing there with our parcel! But it was a consolation
that we had paid only five francs instead of twenty.
And that was the last we ever heard of the secret
society. Who or what they really were, nobody knew.
Personally I do not think they had anything to do with
the Communist Party; I think they were simply
swindlers, who preyed upon Russian refugees by ex-
tracting entrance fees to an imaginary society. It was
quite safe, and no doubt they are still doing it in some
other city. They were clever fellows, and played their
part admirably. Their office looked exactly as a secret
Communist office should look, and as for that touch
about bringing a parcel of washing, it was genius.
IX
FOR three more days we continued traipsing about
looking for work, coming home for diminishing meals
of soup and bread in my bedroom. There were now two
gleams of hope. In the first place, Boris had heard of a
possible job at the Hôtel X., near the Place de la
Concorde, and in the second, the
patron of the new
restaurant in the Rue du Commerce had at last come
back. We went down in the afternoon and saw him. On
the way Boris talked of the vast fortunes we should
make if we got this job, and on the importance of
making a good impression on the
patron.
"Appearance-appearance is everything, mon ami. Give
me a new suit
and I will borrow a thousand francs by
dinner-time. What a pity I did not buy a collar
when we had money. I turned my collar inside out this
morning; but what is the use, one side is as dirty as the
other. Do you think I look hungry, mon ami? »
"You look pale."
"Curse it, what can one do on bread and potatoes?
It is fatal to look hungry. It makes people want to kick
you. Wait."
He stopped at a jeweller's window and smacked his
cheeks sharply to bring the blood into them. Then, before
the flush had faded, we hurried into the restaurant and
introduced ourselves to the
patron.
The
patron was a short, fattish, very dignified man
with wavy grey hair, dressed in a smart, doublebreasted
flannel suit and smelling of scent. Boris told me that he
too was an ex-colonel of the Russian Army. His wife was
there too, a horrid, fat Frenchwoman with a dead-white
face and scarlet lips, reminding me of cold veal and
tomatoes. The patron greeted Boris genially, and they
talked together in Russian for a few minutes. I stood in the
background, preparing to tell some big lies about my
experience as a dishwasher.
Then the
patron came over towards me. I shuffled
uneasily, trying to look servile. Boris had rubbed it into
me that a
plongeur is a slave's slave, and I expected the
patron to treat me like dirt. To my astonishment, he seized
me warmly by the hand.
"So you are an Englishman!" he exclaimed. "But how
charming! I need not ask, then, whether you are a golfer?"
«
Mais certainement, » I said, seeing that this was ex-
pected of me.
"All my life I have wanted to play golf. Will you, my
dear
monsieur, be so kind as to show me a few of the
principal strokes?"
Apparently this was the Russian way of doing busi-
ness. The patron listened attentively while I explained the
difference between a driver and an iron, and then
suddenly informed me that it was all entendu; Boris was
to be
maitre d'hôtel when the restaurant opened, and I
plongeur
, with a chance of rising to lavatory attendant if
trade was good. When would the restaurant open? I
asked. "Exactly a fortnight from to-day," the patron
answered grandly (he had a manner of waving his hand
and flicking off his cigarette ash at the same time, which
looked very grand), "exactly a fortnight from to-day, in
time for lunch." Then, with obvious pride, he showed us
over the restaurant.
It was a smallish place, consisting of a bar, a dining-
room, and a kitchen no bigger than the average bath-
room. The
patron was decorating it in a trumpery
"picturesque" style (he called it «
le Normand »; it was a
matter of sham beams stuck on the plaster, and the like)
and proposed to call it the Auberge de Jehan Cottard, to
give a medieval effect. He had a leaflet printed, full of lies
about the historical associations of the quarter, and this
leaflet actually claimed, among other things, that there
had once been an inn on the site of the restaurant which
was frequented by Charlemagne. The
patron was very
pleased with this touch. He was also having the bar
decorated with indecent pictures by an artist from the
Salon. Finally he gave us each an expensive cigarette,
and after some more talk he went home.
I felt strongly that we should never get any good
from this restaurant. The
patron had looked to me like a
cheat, and, what was worse, an incompetent cheat, and I
had seen two unmistakable duns hanging about the back
door. But Boris, seeing himself a
maitre d'hôtel once more,
would not be discouraged.
"We've brought it off-only a fortnight to hold out. What
is a fortnight? Food?
Je m'en f--- . To think that
in only three weeks I shall have my mistress! Will she be
dark or fair, I wonder? I don't mind, so long as she is not
too thin."
Two bad days followed. We had only sixty centimes left,
and we spent it on half a pound of bread, with a piece of
garlic to rub it with. The point of rubbing garlic on bread is
that the taste lingers and gives one the illusion of having
fed recently. We sat most of that day in the Jardin des
Plantes. Boris had shots with stones at the tame pigeons,
but always missed them, and after that we wrote dinner
menus on the backs of envelopes. We were too hungry even
to try and think of anything except food. I remember the
dinner Boris finally selected for himself. It was: a dozen
oysters, bortch soup (the red, sweet, beetroot soup with
cream on top), crayfishes, a young chicken en casserole, beef
with stewed plums, new potatoes, a salad, suet pudding
and Roquefort cheese, with a litre of Burgundy and some
old brandy. Boris had international tastes in food. Later
on, when we were prosperous, I occasionally saw him eat
meals almost as large without difficulty.
When our money came to an end I stopped looking for
work, and was another day without food. I did not believe
that the Auberge de Jehan Cottard was really going to
open, and I could see no other prospect, but I was too lazy
to do anything but lie in bed. Then the luck changed
abruptly. At night, at about ten o'clock,
I heard an eager shout from the street. I got up and
went to the window. Boris was there, waving his stick
and beaming. Before speaking he dragged a bent loaf
from his pocket and threw it up to me.
«
Mon ami, mon cher ami, we're saved! What do you
think?"
"Surely you haven't got a job!"
"At the Hôtel X., near the Place de la Concorde--five
hundred francs a month, and food. I have been working
there to-day. Name of Jesus Christ, how I have eaten!"
After ten or twelve hours' work, and with his game
leg, his first thought had been to walk three kilometres
to my hotel and tell me the good news! What was more,
he told me to meet him in the Tuileries the next day
during his afternoon interval, in case he should be able
to steal some food for me. At the appointed time I met
Boris on a public bench. He undid his waistcoat and
produced a large, crushed, newspaper packet; in it were
some minced veal, a wedge of Camembert cheese,
bread and an éclair, all jumbled together.
"
Voila!" said Boris, "that's all I could smuggle out
for you. The doorkeeper is a cunning swine."
It is disagreeable to eat out of a newspaper on a
public seat, especially in the Tuileries, which are
generally full of pretty girls, but I was too hungry to
care. While I ate, Boris explained that he was working in
the cafeterie of the hotel-that is, in English, the
stillroom. It appeared that the cafeterie was the very
lowest post in the hotel, and a dreadful come-down for
a waiter, but it would do until the Auberge de Jehan
Cottard opened. Meanwhile I was to meet Boris every
day in the Tuileries, and he would smuggle out as much
food as he dared. For three days we continued with
this arrangement, and I lived entirely on the stolen
food. Then all our troubles came to an end, for one of
the plongeurs left the Hôtel X., and on Boris's recom-
mendation I was given a job there myself.
X
THE Hôtel X. was a vast, grandiose place with a classical
façade, and at one side a little, dark doorway like a rat-
hole, which was the service entrance. I arrived at a
quarter to seven in the morning. A stream of men with
greasy trousers were hurrying in and being checked by a
doorkeeper who sat in a tiny office. I waited, and
presently the
chef du personnel, a sort of assistant manager,
arrived and began to question me. He was an Italian,
with a round, pale face, haggard from overwork. He
asked whether I was an experienced dishwasher, and I
said that I was; he glanced at my hands and saw that I
was lying, but on hearing that I was an Englishman he
changed his tone and engaged me.
"We have been looking for someone to practise our
English on," he said. "Our clients are all Americans, and
the only English we know is ---" He repeated something
that little boys write on the walls in London. "You may