Gallatin Canyon

North Coast

Austin was the more obviously vigilant as they made their way under the canopy of the ancient climax forest, the overgrowth of low alders and ferns towering over him and Ruth. They both had huge canisters of bear spray they’d bought in New Hazelton, but only Austin had ever had to use it — an experience that gave him no confidence since the bear stopped only feet away as the can emptied, and seemingly thanks to mature reflection rather than violent arrest. As he shook the nearly weightless can, the bear, on its hind legs, elevated its nose and just chose not to maul him. He told Ruth the spray worked great. “Point and shoot,” he said. “Nothing to it.”

They followed a game trail paralleling an unnamed creek that emptied a long way to the south into the main stem of the Skeena River, nearly a hundred miles from its debouchment into the North Pacific. It was mostly forest of cedars and hemlocks, silent except for the small dark winter wrens and the many generations of ravens, the young who squawked and the bearded old with their ominous kraah and an inclination to follow the intruders.

This was a world Austin knew. Bearing his heavy pack, he moved with the rocking gait of a Sherpa while Ruth, equally fit, found the near-rain-forest conditions almost impossible. She studied Austin’s measured stride and tried to emulate his concentration on the space in front of him, his alertness to the least resistance, and the continuous reference to an objective he somehow kept clear in his head.

Both were in their late twenties. Austin kept his auburn hair cropped close and, combined with the rapier sideburns he affected, the look strengthened his somewhat arranged individualism. He had made a sort of sub rosa living near wild places since his late teens, guiding hikers and heli-skiers around Revelstoke; and he’d helped mining companies search for metallurgical-grade coal in the high country on the Montana — British Columbia border, where from time to time a dope plane flying right on the deck soared down the alpine valleys into the United States. His mother, a Canadian nurse who married an American merchant mariner, had given him half his nationality. He was either a dual citizen or stateless, depending on whom you talked to or, rather, how he felt. When the subjects of religion, nationality, and race came up, he said, “I don’t believe in that stuff,” and he didn’t. What he believed in was money, but he never had enough for his problems — or for Ruth’s either.

Ruth came from Burnaby, British Columbia, a tough town whose greatest product was Joe Sakic, the Avalanche center. Her mother left her and her father, a millwright, when Ruth was just a child and Sakic was still playing for Lethbridge. Her father admitted that he didn’t know quite what to do with her, and she moved out at fourteen to skateboard, then waitress at Revelstoke, and finally develop her skiing to instructor competency, which provided a seasonal living yet made each year an uncertainty.

Ruth, like Austin, was a heroin user; both would have been more entrenched if their income had been predictable. Their love of the outdoors and great physical enthusiasm sustained the long dry spells; but these always contained some component that led back to using, and that led back to Vancouver, that phenomenal aperture to the drugs of Asia.

Their most reliable connection was a Sikh gallery owner, Sadhu Dhaliwal, who specialized in North Coast art above the table, drugs and protected antiquities under, the most honest junk dealer in Van with a clean business mind under his made-to-measure five-yard muslin turban. Ruth had put Austin on to him: you got a better shot with East Asians who were utterly paranoid about the immigration service and played it straight, at least in the details. There was nothing straight in the big picture, of course, but the big picture always spoiled everything for everybody.

And they were wise; they never went to Vancouver unless, as a kind of enfranchisement, they were prepared to use. To land in that town with empty pockets hoping to improvise your way onto the golden thoroughfare was to risk terrible consequences, and they were far too smart for that. Hence this trip through a primeval forest known with surprising intimacy by Austin. In certain respects, it was a perfect life: you descended from some of the wildest country left on the planet, sunburned and hardmuscled after a season of gazing upon creation, straight down into the city of man where bliss came in a blue Pacific wave and the most beautiful hookers lined up around the cruise-ship terminals and chatted about the future.

They were happy to be together and joked affectionately about how they’d met. “Whose futon is this, anyway?” And “You’re not my cat!”

Several curious ravens were following, now so preoccupied that they blundered into trees and then croaked in dismay. They really did suggest mischief. Once, when he stayed for a week with the Gitxsan band near Kispiox, Austin heard a story about ravens meeting in the spring to discuss the tricks they’d play that year. He liked his stay with the natives, Christmas lights on the houses year-round. Perhaps they trusted him too much, but that was life. He saw ravens perform a kind of funeral on his lawn at Kamloops, when his cat was afraid to leave the house, the same lawn where they taught their young to fly after they’d been shoved from the nest. Though the neighbors complained about all these noisy birds, he loved them. He went down to Mexico with Ruth on some transaction, and when he got back the ravens were gone. The neighbors had done away with them. He and Ruth were not in such great shape after Mexico, and the raven thing got them so down they ran from it and didn’t light until they found another rented house, a trailer this time, in Penticton, where, right after getting his flu shot from the National Health Service, Austin briefly decided he was an American. They had started drinking, which was a feeble alternative though it led to the same place. It was time to go up-country again, this time with a plan that took them to this forest just north of the Skeena with his prized information from the natives.

“Austin. I have to take a break.”

They stopped and shrugged off their packs, which slumped to the ground, but as soon as they stood still the mosquitoes began to find them. Ruth could feel them against her hands as she tried to wave them away. They rose in clouds from beneath the ferns and forced the two to resume hiking. “We’re close,” said Austin, his voice betraying a slight impatience with Ruth. He had a GPS, which he took from his pocket while he walked, glancing at its small screen before putting it away. “I can’t tell; it’s in kilometers, but close.”

“I don’t know how you ever found it in the first place.”

“The old-fashioned way, work. Not a lot of people like to crash around in brush the grizzlies think they own. I had general stuff from the First Nations guys, but I still had to work my ass off.”

“I hope we don’t see bears today.”

“Squirt ’em.”

“That’s pretty cold. I’m frightened.”

He wasn’t cold, really; he’d already heard the distinctive woof of a bear but declined to worry Ruth about it. He kept his eyes on the lighted swatch of huckleberries near their path and saw the moving furrow in the bushes, but an encounter never came.

He was thinking that if he’d had this GPS with him on the first trip he wouldn’t have brought Ruth here at all. They’d be back in Van on the yellow brick road like the time they were so loaded looking at war canoes in the Museum of Anthropology. The security guards kicked them out and they ended up crashing in broad daylight in Stanley Park after being expelled from the Ted and Mary Grieg Memorial Garden for falling on the rhododendrons. Ruth was troubled that they’d found themselves among so many homeless and saw it as a sign. Austin was amused by her love of portents, her belief in symbols, and almost wished he could share it. He considered himself too literal-minded, though he also felt that if he’d been no more practical than Ruth they’d both be doing shitwork around ski resorts the rest of their lives, never really having the merest glimpse of the great beyond.

A couple of times it had gotten away from them. The most humiliating, of course, was when they’d had to move back in with Ruth’s dad, the millwright, holed up sick in his basement, but at least they weren’t in a program. That had been a close call; yet it seemed after each of their grand voyages they’d moved a little closer to a program. The old guy was off making plywood like the good automaton he was and thought Austin and Ruth just kept getting the flu. That’s why, when Austin thought about his dual citizenship, he concluded that Canada still had a little innocence left. If you could look at a forest and see plywood you were still innocent.

Austin found the clearing and waited at its edge, in the manner of a host, for Ruth to catch up.

“Here it is.”

The totem pole lay stretched out in ferns and moss, strikingly distinct from the forest around it. Shafts of light entered the canopy and illuminated the clearing in pools of brightness. Austin and Ruth moved along its length, staring at the details of the carving, strangely mixed parts of animals, birds, humans, salmon.

Ruth gave a huge sigh, and Austin said, “What’d I tell you?”

Then he walked to the head of the pole, where a fearsome animal head raised fangs toward the canopy. He took out a cell phone and dialed. After a moment he said, “You want me to start at the top? Okay, it looks like a wolf. Is there a wolf clan? Well, it looks like a wolf. Ruth, what’s the next one? Ruth says mosquito turning into a human. If I recall my Gitxsan, that’s Fireweed Clan. And she says, yes, Wolf’s a clan too. Then frog with hawk’s beak, followed by another mosquito with a frog on its head, then it looks like a beaver dancing with a raven, and last is two bear cubs, one of which is turning into a boy. They’re pretty well separated; I know you could cut them up. I mean, the fucking thing is forty feet long. You’ll be happy, Sadhu, and if we’re good to go on the you-know-what, I’ll just give you the coordinates, and Ruth and I will see you in Van.” He stopped talking and took the GPS out of his pocket again. “Hold on, Sadhu, it’s finding satellites now. All I gotta do is push MAN OVERBOARD, then I can give you the numbers. . ” Austin recited the position, longitude and latitude down to minutes of degrees, and then hung up. He turned to Ruth with a huge grin.

She asked, “Is there a lot?”

“Is there a lot!” He thought, We’re going to have to pace ourselves or we’ll be dead inside a year. “Yeah, Ruth, there’s a lot.”