Lost in Shangri-la

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

THIS STORY WAITED a long time to be told, but it didn’t wait untended. A remarkable collection of people lovingly preserved documents, letters, scrapbooks, maps, photographs, movies, and, most of all, memories.

I am indebted above all to C. Earl Walter Jr., without whom I would never have attempted to write this book. Earl welcomed me into his home; shared his scrapbooks, photos, and journals; and poured out stories of Shangri-La. Thanks also to his daughter Lisa Walter-Sedlacek.

Buzz Maxey provided indispensable help during my trip to the Baliem Valley, aka Shangri-La. He guided me to the surviving witnesses, translated their accounts, and interpreted the cultural meaning of their responses. I admire his dedication to the welfare of the people of Papua, and I encourage others to follow his path. Thanks also to Myrna, Ben, and Dani Maxey. Tomas Wandik skillfully guided me up the mountain and through the jungle to the crash site. His daughter Nande Mina Wandik made an ideal hiking companion. I’m deeply grateful to Helenma Wandik, Yunggukwe Wandik, Ai Baga, Lisaniak Mabel, Hugiampot, Narekesok Logo, and Dagadigik Walela for their eyewitness accounts.

Emma Sedore, historian of Tioga County, New York, provided priceless assistance and suggestions. Without her, much of Margaret Hastings’s story might have been lost. Thanks also to Roger Sharpe and Kevin Sives at the Tioga County Historical Society.

The lovely Betty “B.B.” McCollom gave me rich insight into her late husband, John, and graciously shared his scrapbooks and photographs. Dennie McCollom Scott provided invaluable information and suggestions. Rita Callahan told me stories about her sister Margaret Hastings and their father, Patrick Hastings. She directed me to Margaret’s childhood friend Mary Scanlon, whose memories enriched me and this book.

Peter J. Prossen Jr. helped me to understand his father, and I admire his candor. Maryrose Condon, John McCarthy, and Michael McCarthy helped me to know their cousin, Major George H. Nicholson Jr. Roberta Koons kindly shared memories of her sister, Eleanor Hanna. Gerta Anderson helped me to know Laura Besley. My new friend Melvyn Lutgring generously told the story of his father’s guilt over giving his job on the flight crew to his best friend, Melvin “Molly” Mollberg. Alexandra Cann delighted me with yarns about her larger-than-life father, for whom she was named.

Documentary filmmaker Robert Gardner spent time in the 1990s researching this story as a possible follow-up to Dead Birds, his brilliant film about the Dani people. He gave me rare files that would have been impossible to replicate. His unaired interviews with John McCollom enabled me to see and hear Mac from beyond the grave. Thanks also to Michael Hutcherson for reproducing the interview tapes.

My understanding of the Dani was greatly enriched by Dr. Myron Bromley, whose close reading of this manuscript and thought-provoking suggestions are sincerely appreciated. I also thank James Sunda, who along with Myron was among the first missionaries to enter the valley. Professor Karl Heider’s impressive research on the Dani, amplified by his e-mail correspondence, was enlightening.

Dona Cruse learned of the crash through her mother, Ruth Coster, who was supposed to be aboard the flight. Dona shared her voluminous knowledge and research of these events. Colonel Pat Jernigan (retired) was a remarkable, indefatigable resource who answered my questions and provided valuable insight.

Major Myron Grimes (retired) never got much credit for being the first U.S. Army Air Forces pilot to spot the valley from the air. He made me feel as though I was in the cockpit with him, and I’m thankful for the ride. George Theis of the National Association of World War II Glider Pilots saved me from gliding into a fusillade of errors.

At the end of World War II, Gene Hoops was an army corporal sent to the base in Hollandia as part of a cleanup patrol. His job was to destroy all military files, but when he opened a metal drawer and found photos from the crash site, he knew they were worth saving. For the next six decades he did just that, and I’m thankful that he did.

In his excellent film, An Untold Triumph, documentary filmmaker Noel “Sonny” Izon brought to light the contributions of Filipino-American soldiers during World War II. He generously shared information about the Filipino paratroopers who bravely jumped into the valley.

The late Colonel Edward T. Imparato, who played an important role in the supply and rescue effort, published verbatim documents, transcripts, Walter’s journal, news stories, and his own reflections in his book, Rescue From Shangri-La (Paducah, Kentucky: Turner Publishing, 1997). Colonel Imparato died before I had a chance to meet him, but I salute him for his work in the valley and on his book.

Justin Taylan, director of PacificWrecks.org, was an enormous help throughout. Thanks to professors Alex Fabros and Dan Gonzales for teaching me about Filipino-American soldiers; Jette Flipse for her helpful suggestions; Robert Knox for sharing his great-uncle’s stirring account of a C-47 crash; James W. Zobel at the MacArthur Memorial Archives; Ed Christine and Tom Wilbur at the Binghamton Press & Sun; Norm Landis at the Rome Daily Sentinel; Sissy Burge at The Watchman of Clinton, Louisiana; Lynn Gamma at the Air Force Historical Research Agency; David Freece at the Cowlitz County Historical Museum; Heidi Reutter of the University of Central Arkansas; Mary Jane Vinella of the Bellevue, Washington, Regional Library; Lisa Rickey of the Dayton, Ohio, Metro Library; telegraphy historian Thomas C. Jepsen; transcriptionist Steve Wylie; intrepid traveler Jan Versluis; and my graduate assistant, Roxanne Palmer.

My colleagues and students at Boston University indulged and encouraged me throughout this project. Special thanks to Dean Tom Fiedler and Professor Lou Ureneck for their support and for the sabbatical that enabled me to complete this book, and to Bob Zelnick and Isabel Wilkerson for setting such inspiring examples.

At a crucial moment, Helene Atwan of Beacon Press convinced me to trust my instincts. She made me an author a decade ago, and I’m forever grateful. Richard Abate is the best friend and agent any author could ask for. He stuck with me as I searched for the right idea, and then he found the ideal home for this book.

My editor Claire Wachtel embraced me and this story from start to finish. She improved this book with her ideas, her insights, and her confidence. Thanks also to Jonathan Burnham, for everything. I’m grateful to Melissa Kahn of 3Arts, who believed, and to the entire team at HarperCollins, including Elizabeth Perrella, Diane Aronson, and Miranda Ottewell.

Deep thanks to my own tribe: Brian McGrory; Ruth, Emily, and Bill (Air William) Weinstein, whose generosity sent me to New Guinea in comfort; Colleen Granahan, Dan Field, and Isabelle and Eliza Granahan-Field; Jeff Feigelson, who should have been an editor; Kathryn Altman; Dick Lehr; Chris Callahan; Nancy and Jim Bildner; Naftali Bendavid; the late Wilbur Doctor; Allan Zuckoff; and the extended Kreiter and Zuckoff clans.

Special thanks to my parents, first teachers, and first readers: Sid and Gerry Zuckoff.

I was struggling with a much different writing project when my beloved daughters informed me that I was lost in the wrong jungle. “That’s not the kind of story you like,” Isabel said. Eve agreed. “Write about Margaret and Shangri-La,” she said. Smart girls.

My wife, Suzanne (aka Rose, aka Trixie) Kreiter, makes life the closest thing I’ll find to Shangri-La.