Six Days in Leningrad

Before we landed, the missionary leader went around and told his people that they had to chronicle the trip in their diaries. “What has the trip been like from God’s perspective?” he asked. I really wanted to know what the girl sitting next to me, who couldn’t muster any interest in my brainless magazines, thought about God’s perspective, but I couldn’t read her handwriting. When we landed at Pulkovo, all the missionaries clapped.

I wanted to see out my window what St. Petersburg looked like at six in the morning in the rain, but all I saw was wet buildings and tarmac. And uncut grass.

Inside the terminal, I expeditiously got in line for passport control. The two women behind me clucked away in Russian. I made a mental note to stop being surprised at hearing Russian all around me. It was the rule now, not the exception. The two women were talking about the missionaries. One of them said, “Yeah, I wish them well, but I think they’re going to have a hard time over here.”

I don’t know why the Russian woman thought the missionaries would have a hard time over here. Unless it was because they didn’t speak a word of Russian.

Now that time was no longer of the utmost essence, my garment bag rolled down instantly. I had to fill out a customs form on which I wrote that I was bringing in six hundred American dollars and not much else. Oh, and a camera.

No one checked my bag. When I was waiting in the customs line, the control officer suddenly got up and walked away. I stood dumbly for about five minutes, and then concluded he was not coming back any time soon, so I went on another line. It was a good call, for he had permanently disappeared.

The international arrivals area was jammed with people who did not move out of my way to let me pass. I came to an impasse with one man, who glared at me, at my bag, and then finally stepped half a hostile foot back. I may have run over his foot with my bag as I wheeled by.

I saw a sign in Russian that said, полина саймонс. I went over to that sign. It was held by a skeletally thin man of indeterminate age with big lips and blue eyes. He was Viktor Smirnoff, our driver for the week.

When we came to his car, we found it trapped between two other vehicles with no way out. There were no lanes marked out within the parking lot and no parking stalls either, so the cars were parked wherever and driven wherever. The parking lot at Pulkovo International Airport was very small, half the size of the one at the Appleton, Wisconsin, a tiny local airport where I’d gone a year earlier for a book event.

In any case we were stuck and Viktor had no plan.

After some minutes of sitting in the car, silently staring at the terminal building as if for guidance, a car mercifully pulled out in front of us and we started to drive out. Immediately another car approached to take up the space. Viktor and the other driver sat and looked at each other. Viktor motioned in the direction of… I don’t know. Possibly the exit, though it was hard to tell where the exit was. After Viktor motioned, the other man motioned also. Viktor nodded. The other driver rolled his eyes, but reversed his car a few feet, just enough to let us pass.

All I wanted to do was look at the countryside. Pulkovo is twenty kilometers south of St. Petersburg. The Germans bombed Leningrad from Pulkovo Heights for the duration of the war — before the airport had been built. I expected to see the foliage of northern Maine in the trees and the leaves and the fields. But I didn’t recognize Maine in the countryside near Pulkovo. It looked flat and slightly swampy, a bit like Holland. With the tall overgrown grasses, my first impression was of something rural and unkempt. I didn’t see the skyscraper pines of Maine, nor the sugar maples of New England, nor the white cedar-shingled farmhouses.

It had stopped raining. The sun was peeking out.

In Viktor’s little white Volkswagen, we drove to St. Petersburg on the Pulkovo Shossé or highway. The traffic signs looked a lot like those coming out of Gatwick in London, except in another language.

Also — are the roads near London much smoother or is that just my imagination?

On a map, Leningrad looks like a glob of cotton candy surrounded on two sides by water — Gulf of Finland to the west, Lake Ladoga to the east. The city was built in the narrow neck of a wide isthmus, on the banks of the mouth of the River Neva.

To the north is Karelia and farther north and northwest is Finland. The Finns and Russians have fought bitterly over the Karelian Isthmus for three hundred years, ever since Peter the Great built Leningrad in the swampy mud and then wanted to put some distance between his window-to-the-west city and the Finns. The Karelian Isthmus exchanged hands a number of times, the last time during the Second World War. Today, nearly all of it belongs to the Russians. The Finns had sided with Hitler, and so to the victor went the spoils.

Lake Ladoga is the largest lake in Europe. The Neva is formed in this lake and flows 73 kilometers to empty into the Gulf of Finland just outside city limits. In fact, the Gulf is the city’s limits. South is where the rest of Russia lies, and it was south where the Nazi Panzer tanks stood in a semi-circle at the bottom of Leningrad for three years from 1941–44. The German-Russian southern front looked like a smile on the face of death. The Germans knew they didn’t have to encircle the entire city. Finland, a German ally, stood ready to fight the Red Army north in Karelia, and to the east and west there was water. The Nazis only had to worry about the south. It looked so foolproof that Leningrad would starve and surrender, in that order, that Hitler booked the Astoria Hotel in Leningrad for a victory celebration. The invitations had been printed, with the exact time of the party. Only the date had been left blank.

Hitler never set foot in Astoria.

He was too busy keeping his men from frozen collapse during the invasion of Moscow in October, 1941. Afterward a celebration was not possible because Leningrad would not surrender. Moscow would not surrender, Stalingrad would not surrender.

After Hitler lost the Battle of Moscow, the Battle of Stalingrad, and the Battle of Leningrad, it was just a matter of time.

Time and 20 million Soviet dead.

As we neared the city limits, the shossé turned into a prospekt, which is an avenue or a boulevard. I finally saw something familiar — a wide road with four-story buildings flanking it.

The buildings were in pretty bad shape. Their façades were finished in stucco in a pastel palette: blues, greens, yellows, grays. The paint looked to be pre-war, not that I would know what pre-war paint looked like. I don’t remember old paint from when I lived in Russia.

The buildings looked as if they haven’t been painted in decades. A little fresh paint would do wonders, I decided. Then I saw rotting window frames and chipped and unhinged doors. I wanted to look away, but there was nowhere to look.

In the movie White Nights with Mikhail Baryshnikov, Leningrad looked so beautiful and pristine. Had the film been made in a different city? I hear my father’s voice in my head from years ago. “Of course it wasn’t filmed in Leningrad. Who would allow them to come inside to make a movie about Baryshnikov of all people? It was filmed in Helsinki. That’s why it looks so beautiful.”

There were very few trees. Moscovsky Prospekt had a concrete stoop for a divider between two wide, broken roads.

There were no trees growing on the divider. It wasn’t Boston.

Moscovsky Prospekt, also called Prospekt of Victory, runs in a straight line from the south straight into the heart of Leningrad, as if it’s a stick in the center of cotton candy.

St. Petersburg’s public transportation consists of four options: the tram, the trolleybus, the bus, and the taxi.

Trams, or mini-trains, run on rails in the middle of the widest avenues, like the Moskovsky. Next to taxis, trams are the least common of all the public transport, but they do run to the outskirts of town and they go to all the major boroughs.

Imagine the trolleycar in San Francisco. The trolleybus looks nothing like that. This is a bus with rails.

The rails of the trams are set in concrete that is in varying degrees of disrepair, from badly cracked to ravine-like. The rails are uniformly rusted. Oxidation has removed a good part of the rails; it’s a wonder electricity still surges through them.

As I look at it, I feel sad. The holes in the asphalt around the rails don’t seem like an anomaly. The roads don’t look as if they’re in need of just minor repair.

There is something else too. The streets are empty of people. Where is everyone? I look at my watch.

10:45.

My mind is blank. 10:45 what? At night? In the morning? Had I already changed my watch to Russia time? My attention was temporarily diverted from the streets of Leningrad as I tried to subtract nine hours from 10:45, then add nine hours to 10:45. Five minutes of this and I gave up and asked Viktor. He told me it was 7:45 on Monday morning.

I know Monday morning in New York City — buzzing, teeming with chaotic, purposeful life.

Here nothing looked open and no one was out.

Well, why should they be? Nothing was open.

But wasn’t there work to go to?

There were a few stores. I was amused by the large-scale signs, SONY, or SANSUI, or NOKIA, some translated into Russian, some bilingual, some left in the Latin alphabet. There were stores selling cellular phones and consumer electronics and small appliances.

“Viktor, these stores weren’t here before when I lived here, were they?” I asked.

“Of course not. There was nothing then. It’s much better now.”

I nodded, and then my head nearly went through the roof of the car as we dived into a pot hole.

The Name Leningrad

My father told me after I e-mailed him with a possible title for this book, Thinking About Leningrad, “Paullina, please, don’t ever call it Leningrad. Call it St. Petersburg.”

So I tried.

In my defense I will say that The Bronze Horseman is set during WWII and in those days St. Petersburg was Leningrad.

My Aeroflot tickets stated that I was arriving at LED. When I asked the helpful airline personnel what LED stood for, she looked at me askance and brusquely said, “Leningrad.” As if, duh.

Russians have been waiting 80 years to call their city St. Petersburg again. The affectionate name all Leningraders have for the city is Peter.

When Communism fell, four million citizens voted by referendum and overwhelming majority to rename Leningrad St. Petersburg. Yet everyone you actually speak to still calls the city Leningrad.

We drove past Moscow Station — one of the five major railroad stations in St. Petersburg — and a very famous building in its own right. The Moscow Station had not been painted — since the war? Since which war?

It has probably never been painted.

The Moscow Railroad station is a large imposing blue building with white window frames, apparently in every detail a sister twin of the Leningrad Railroad Station in Moscow. As you come out of the station and look across the big city square you see another large imposing blue building, and on top, in Rushmorian-proportion letters that light up at night, stand the words: HERO-CITY — LENINGRAD.

ГОРОД-ГЕРОЙ ЛЕНИНГРАД.

Viktor told me the sign was there to greet travelers arriving from the rest of Russia by train. Hero-city — Leningrad.

Rename that, I thought. Change that.

Those three words scream in the night, all lit up by the halos of the angels — we starved and we fought and we died, but we did not surrender.

I felt better that I could not easily call Leningrad St. Petersburg.

The letters in the sign are facing every which way. The letters are 20 feet tall and they look as if they’re about to fall over.

We are still on the outskirts of town, I told myself. They haven’t gotten around to repairing it yet. Viktor, as if reading my mind, says, “Everything is kept up much better in the center of town.”

Then we got to the center of town. The road we needed to be on had been cordoned off. The road under repair looked every bit as rough and full of holes as the roads we’d been just driving on.

“They’re repairing it, see?” Viktor smiled. “They do little by little. They’re starting at the center and working their way out.”

I nodded politely.

“It’s much better than before,” he said, as if on the defensive.

My father was right about my hotel, the Grand Hotel Europe on Mikhailovskaya Ulitsa. It couldn’t be in a better location, standing on the corner of Nevsky Prospekt, the Rodeo Drive of St. Petersburg. In 1991, the hotel had been extensively renovated inside and out and was now run by Kempinski, the oldest luxury hotelier in the world. The side of the hotel that faced Nevsky Prospekt was freshly painted yellow stucco with white window trim. The side that faced Mikhailovskaya was freshly painted brown stucco, with ornate stucco window detail. The hotel looked inside and out as if it belonged on the streets of Paris.

Dutifully I offered Viktor money just as my father had instructed, but he refused, saying we would take care of it later. We agreed, as per my father’s directive, to meet at 3:30 that afternoon.

The desk clerk spoke to me in courteously accented English as he took my passport and visa, promising to return them to me in a few hours. I asked him why he needed my passport and visa. He told me, by way of explanation, “You’re going to be exchanging currency.” As if nothing more was required.

“Yes, that’s true,” I said.

He smiled, self-satisfied.

“But I’m not going to be exchanging currency now.”

“Yes, but later,” he explained.

Ah, yes, later. Okay. He took my passport and my visa, and I went to my room.

“Will there be more bags, madam?” said the bellman.

“No,” I replied. “Just the one.”

It was Monday morning, 12 July 1998, 8:30 a.m. Russian time, or Sunday night, 11:30 p.m. Dallas time. Aside from the three hours of unsober sleep and one hour of tense and uncomfortable sleep on the Aeroflot flight, I hadn’t slept in any time zone since 8 o’clock Saturday morning. How many hours was that? Thirty-six? I then and there made myself a rule to stop counting after 30 hours of wake-time.

My room had a large entranceway, and the main room was taller than it was wide. It had 20 foot ceilings, a crystal chandelier, and gilded ceiling trim. The two twin beds (!) had down pillows, down mattress pads and down quilts. I was afraid to sit on the bed for fear that I would fall asleep in a sitting position. I didn’t come to St. Petersburg to sleep. I was going to unpack and take a walk.

After I called Kevin, I looked out my window, which had a built-in thick ledge of about 18 inches. How thick are these walls, I marveled, comparing them with the two-by-fours that had framed my house in Texas. It had looked like a house made of sticks before the sheetrock and the stucco went up.

I had a view of the Italian Gardens, right across from the Russian Museum.

The road crew was repairing the street underneath my windows. What they were repairing didn’t look so much like a pot hole as a crater. The crew was two men, both wearing white dress shirts. The men were taking a smoking break, and then they picked up their jackhammers and got back to work, making the crater even larger. I wondered if they were building an underground bomb shelter. All was quiet on a St. Petersburg Monday morning, aside from the two JACKHAMMERS right below me on the street. As a soundtrack to sitting on a ledge looking out onto the tall leafy oaks of the Italian Gardens, this did not work. I was about to close the window when the noise suddenly stopped. The work men were taking another smoking break.

As I was closing the window, I noticed a sign on the latch that said, “To keep the insects out of the room, kindly keep windows closed.”

What insects? I thought.

The room was the nicest I’d ever been in. The bathroom not only had a separate shower and a bath but was the size of a bedroom.

My first experience with the Soviet toilet was a pleasant one in my hotel room. The toilet was a magnificent feat of ingeniously simple technology. It didn’t look quite as nice as the toilet at the Boardwalk Villas at Walt Disney World, but then what does?

I unpacked slowly. I wasn’t sure what to do with my bounty of alone time. Should I go for a walk? Should I, without a map, just on childhood intuition, find Fifth Soviet, the street where I had lived for the first ten years of my life?

I decided to have breakfast. I was feeling hungry, and my eyes were getting that sandpaper glassy feeling of being up too long. I walked down one flight of stairs to the health club that advertised a number of different services: massage, acupuncture, sauna, weight room, small pool, pedicures, facials. I was interested in a blow-dry and a massage. So I scheduled a massage from ten to eleven and a blow-dry at eleven. My hair is at best unruly, and if my father’s friend and his entire family were turning out to see me for my first return to Russia in 25 years, I intended to have my hair conquered by a professional.

I rushed to have breakfast. Opening the doors of the stairwell, I thought I had walked outside, yet it wasn’t chilly. When I looked up I saw a glass ceiling a hundred feet up that gave me the illusion of being outside, without any of the disadvantages of, say, rain or wind. The patrons of the hotel could sit and sip their tea and have their finger sandwiches and read their newspaper, as if they were on a warm Rue de Paris, surrounded by fresh flowers, all the while untouched by Arctic weather.

It was the famous glass mezzanine of Grand Hotel Europe, a partial floor between two stories.

At the end of the mezzanine were two restaurants — the Caviar Bar, and the opulent European. The Caviar Bar was open for breakfast, but the European was offering a breakfast buffet which included red caviar and blini — yeast-raised pancakes.

I love blini and caviar. I took two. They were costing me 24 u. That’s 12 units per blini, which were fat and small, like silver dollar pancakes, instead of more crepe-like, as blini are supposed to be.

Everything in the Grand Hotel Europe was in units. Not rubles, not dollars, but units. I asked the hostess about it, and she cheerfully told me that units were indeed dollars. “So nothing is in rubles?”

Smiling courteously she shook her head. “Not in this hotel,” she replied. “Outside yes. But the dollar is a more stable currency at the moment.”

After wolfing down my blini with caviar and some sautéed mushrooms with potatoes, I bolted to the health club. It was a few minutes after ten and I didn’t want to be late. Svetlana, the girl behind the counter, gave me a towel and a robe and told me I could use the sauna while I waited.

“Waited?” I said. “Waited for what?”

“For the masseuse, of course.”

“Oh,” I said. “I won’t be waiting long, right?”

“No, no.”

In an American health club, you come in for your appointment a few minutes late, and the masseuse is already waiting for you, towel in hand, tapping her foot on the floor.

I sat disrobed for ten minutes in an empty locker room. I was about to fall asleep, so I stood up and came back out to the reception area. “Will it be long?”

“No, no, not long,” Svetlana assured me.

I went to look at the pool. It was an oversized Jacuzzi. There was no one else but me at the club. Not even the masseuse.

After another ten minutes, I began to feel like I did waiting for the missionaries on Aeroflot while the captain made his vague apologies in Russian.

The difference: I was impatient and cranky, tired of waiting and of being awake. And of being half-naked for no good reason.

“Svetlana,” I said. “Listen, if there is a problem, maybe I can come back later.”

“There is no problem.”

“I’ve been waiting twenty minutes, and I need a full hour, but I have a hair appointment that you made for me in forty minutes. I don’t want to wait anymore. So how about if we reschedule, okay?” But it wasn’t a question. I had already turned around to go get dressed.

Just as I was coming back out to the reception area, the masseuse ran in panting, “I’m sorry. That traffic. They’re fixing the roads.”

“Yes, they certainly are,” I said.

I was relieved that he was late and that I was already dressed, because the masseuse was a man, and I’d never had a massage by a man before. I sold this Russia trip to my husband under the auspices of research and sentiment and desperately needed wisdom. I knew that the aforementioned husband would not be especially keen to learn that five thousand miles away from home, his wife lay half naked while being rubbed down by a panting Russian man.

I had my hair blow-dried instead. It took an hour, almost like a massage — a very long hour — during which I nearly fell asleep in an upright position.

The stylist looked all of twelve. I was surprised to see what a good job she did straightening my hair.

Back at reception, I asked Svetlana how much the blowdry was and was told two hundred and twenty.

I churned this for thirty seconds. “Two hundred and twenty UNITS?”

“Yes,” Svetlana replied, then a quick no when she saw my face. “Rubles,” she said. “Rubles.”

And that was it. Rubles. As if the rest was up to me. How much was two hundred and twenty rubles? I didn’t even know how many rubles made a dollar. I could not exchange dollars for rubles in the United States, since the Russian government did not and still does not allow their rubles to be exported.

I pretended to think about all this for another minute as Svetlana and the masseuse stared at me.

Helpfully, Svetlana said, “About six rubles to a dollar.” I conjured up a thoughtful face, to create the impression I was trying to work out the conversion in my head. Truth was, I was falling asleep as I stood leaning against the counter. I didn’t think Svetlana would understand. Finally, to end my suffering, she said, “About thirty five dollars.”

After paying I went back to my room, just for a second, I said to myself. It was noon, and outside looked like a lovely day. I had three and a half hours to myself before I had to meet my father, and I couldn’t wait to go out for a meander.

I looked at my down-covered twin bed. I had chosen the one closest to the window, while the other one had already become a storage surface. It was covered with information packets, a map of Leningrad, the room service menu, listing of the restaurants in the hotel, the hotel’s alphabetical list of services, my three purses and a pocket Olympus camera.

But my twin bed had a down quilt on it and down pillows and a down mattress pad. The room was full of daylight. It was noon, my first day in Russia. I went to the window. The two smoking road warriors in white shirts must have run out of cigarettes because the street was empty and quiet.

I sat down on the bed. Then I lay down on the bed, just for a sec, I told myself, and careful, don’t mess up your hair.

When I opened my eyes and looked at my wristwatch, it said 3:15.

I jumped up. My father was going to be here in fifteen minutes!

I tried to dress thoughtfully. I didn’t want to be too dressy. I was about to meet and have dinner with my father’s oldest friends, Anatoly and Ellie, and their daughter Alla, who was once upon a time my best friend. Two years older than me, she now had a husband, and two children — by Russian standards a tremendous amount of children. I wore a white denim skirt, a brown pullover v-neck shirt, and low-heeled strappy sandals.

Precisely at three-thirty the phone rang. It was my father. “I’m waiting downstairs,” he said.

I hadn’t seen my father since our trip to New York the previous summer. He nodded in my direction, almost smiled even, and I gave him a hug, on a Leningrad street outside the doors of the Grand Hotel Europe. Were these the same doors he wheeled my baby carriage through when he was smuggling books given to him by his American acquaintance? It had been winter then, colder and darker than it was now. The sunlight was very bright now.

My father looks exactly like me. If I were a man, 27 years older, a few pounds heavier, smoked and drank lots of beer, I would be my father. I get my curly hair from him and my Russian features. He is medium height and always dresses extra nicely. Like today, he was wearing jeans with suspenders and a button down shirt. He is always freshly shaved and smells clean. As his cousin Tania told me — with whom he spent years as a child in hunger and evacuation — she, who knew my father very well, for they had been very close growing up: “Your Papa when he was an adolescent was always trying to find himself, to reinvent himself. He didn’t know if he wanted to be Gerard Philippe or Clark Gable, but knew he wanted to be someone great and important. And as ever — humor oozed out of his every pore.”

Papa studied me silently. He said he didn’t recognize me. “What did you do to your hair? Why are you always trying to be something you’re not? And you’re not really dressed for the weather, are you? Where is your coat?”

“It’s so warm,” I said.

He shook his head.

As we got to Viktor’s car, my father said, “Get in the back, it’s easier for you in the backseat. I will sit in the front.”

After we started driving, I casually asked where the street Fifth Soviet was so I could walk there another day. I felt such regret for sleeping. I could sleep any time. But to walk to Fifth Soviet by myself, on my first day in Russia, how often could I do that, for the first time in twenty-five years?

Now, never.

Papa asked Viktor to please drive us to Fifth Soviet so we could see for ourselves. “Just for two minutes, Viktor, all right, because we have to go to Anatoly’s. They’re all expecting us. They are very excited to see you again, Paullina.”

The road was bumpy and in the backseat, I felt even more thrown-about. It felt like the Cyclone, a wooden roller coaster in Coney Island, without the attendant screams, or the salt of the ocean, or the smell of the sausage-and-pepper heroes, or the sight of the shiftless men, standing on the corner waiting for something to do. Okay, maybe the last part. I saw a man in a dress shirt standing on a corner, smoking a cigarette. He looked as if he had nowhere to go. He could have been one half of the road crew working on the bomb shelter under my hotel. Or he could’ve been homeless. It was impossible to tell the difference. I watched him until the traffic light changed, and we lumbered away.

I saw very little of Leningrad out of the small back window. But the back of my father’s head, his cigarette, and the traffic lights out in front I could see perfectly.

I began. “Papa,” I said, “tell me again why you couldn’t meet me any earlier than Monday?”

“I don’t know what you mean,”

“Papa! You’ve been telling me I couldn’t book my arrival any earlier than today, and in fact even today was too early. Why was that again?”

“I don’t know what you mean,” he repeated doggedly, taking a long drag of his cigarette.

“I see,” I said. “So tell me… how was the World Cup Final yesterday?”

Pause. “Fine,” he said. “Why do you ask?”

“No reason. Did you enjoy watching it?”

“Yes, very much. Zinedine Zidane was a marvel. I invited some people over. France has never won the Cup before yesterday. It was a momentous occasion. If you knew anything about anything, you would have been glued to your television.”

“So why didn’t you tell me this is what you were doing?”

Viktor was smiling at this point, but my father kept a straight face. He sort of flung his head back in my direction, to pretend to look at me. “What?” he said. “I have to report to you all the time?”

“No, no, of course, not,” I said. “Here we are going to Russia, and I thought you were delayed and limited by work…”

“What do you care what I’m delayed and limited by? I told you no earlier than Monday, but you of course don’t listen.”

“I just wanted to know how your World Cup Final was, that’s all.”

What I wanted to see was the Russia where I used to live. I wanted to see it with grown-up eyes and compare it to my childhood memories: the pavement, the turn of the road, the flashing light, the sidewalk, which was the color of slate, and wide, slightly warped, with a shallow curb. I remembered the sidewalk because I was short and very close to it as we strolled around Leningrad when I had been a child.

On the corner across the street I saw a red brick four-story building partially covered by a tall iron fence and large leafy trees. My father said, “See there? That was the hospital we took you to after you swallowed a whole bottle of aspirin. You were two. We took you right there. And do you know what you did as soon as we brought you back home? I come into the room and you are standing on our bed, and your mouth is filled with more aspirin. You must have hidden the bottle somewhere, and as soon as we got home you retrieved it.

“Oh, and here? See these cobblestones? This is where I dropped you on your head out of your carriage. Do you remember that?”

“Oddly, no.”

“Oh, how you cried. Then we brought you to the same clinic you went to for the aspirin overdose. And you were so scared as the doctors took you, that you stretched out your arms to me and cried, ‘Papochka, come, let me carry you.’ Instead of the other way around.” He laughed fondly.

He told this story as we waited for the light to change at Ligovsky Prospekt. Right in front of us was a large concert hall.

My father said it was the October Concert Hall. No, I said, it was the Grechesky Concert Hall. He said he couldn’t believe I was arguing with him. “What do you know?” he asked. “I know everything. It’s October Hall.” Viktor didn’t help any by agreeing with my father. I said I knew it was Grechesky Hall, because I used to play on the building’s steps as a child.

“You might have played there, but you didn’t know what it was called,” said my father.

I let it go; I wasn’t in the mood to argue. Seeing the big, blocky, beige, ugly square building in front of me, I was flooded with… childhood. When I was five, I performed in that concert hall with my kindergarten class. I held a big square block in my arms, a block bigger than me, and I danced. My mother was in the audience. My father was in prison.

On the weekends, when my mother would be cleaning or cooking, she would send me out to Grechesky Concert Hall to play. Sometimes there would be other kids playing, but sometimes there was no one at all. After all, it wasn’t a playground, just steps.

I would cross Grechesky Prospekt by myself, hoping other kids would be there.

There was one girl I really liked. I can’t remember her name or how I knew her, but she was a few years older than me, and she would always let me play with her and her older friends.

One day she must have noticed I was cold. Was I shivering? Was I blue? “Are you cold?” she asked. I nodded. And she said, “Oh, my baby!” She knelt in front of me and hugged me to her, and rubbed my back to warm me up, and I remember being stunned to be hugged for a prolonged period, to be comforted.

I never forgot that girl, and every time we played thereafter, I would say I was cold, or hungry, or that something hurt because I wanted her to hug me again.

When I was a child, Grechesky Prospekt seemed extremely wide to me. A tram ran through it. Now as an adult, I saw that the street was really quite narrow. With the sun setting down the length of it, it looked almost rural.

There were hardly any people on the street. Then as now.

Across from the Concert Hall, on the corner of Grechesky and Fifth Soviet, I saw a four-story olive green stucco building. “That’s it, right?” I said to my father.

“What? Yes, that’s our building. Listen, when I came to St. Petersburg last time, I walked by here and the building was closed off. They were doing renovation or repairs. I don’t know. It could be anything now. Condos. Business. Anything. You won’t be able to go inside. I wasn’t.”

We crossed Grechesky and pulled up. We sat quietly for a few seconds. Viktor did not turn off the car, or even put it into park. I could see fragments of the green stucco in my limited viewing range from the back seat window. “This is our building,” my father said. “Do you remember it?”

What a funny question. It was one of the few things I remembered whole. But he knew that. He was asking to be dramatic. For a rhetorical flourish.

All right, maybe not entirely whole. I was surprised to discover it was green. But the location of the building, I remembered spot on. Even the address. House no. 3, apartment 4.

I didn’t remember it looking so old, or the decorative and intricate stucco trim work being all chipped. The glossy crème front door looked loose and hung unevenly on the hinges. The double doors didn’t close properly against each other. One hard push and they might fall right off.

“I thought you said they were renovating it?” I asked.

“Yeah, I don’t know. That’s what they told me.”

I sat in the backseat, staring at the double entrance doors. I was remembering what it was like walking through them and going up three flights of stairs.

“Well, we’ve seen it,” my father said. “Ready to go?”

I didn’t answer.

“Or…” It seemed almost difficult for him. “Or do you want to get out?”

“I want to get out,” I said instantly.

Papa looked at Viktor almost apologetically. “Okay, Viktor? Just for a second.”

“But of course,” unflappable Viktor said. He turned the car off.

We got out, and my father looked up. “There were our windows. Over there on the third floor, on the left, see them?”

I looked up. I felt weak.

It was at that precise moment, and not a second before, that I began to feel helplessly adrift in a Kvas of strong sentiment. Not when we were driving through the marshland, nor through the Hero-City square, or through Nevsky Prospekt, or even the concert hall where I played, but here, looking up at the windows of the rooms where I used to live, did it suddenly occur to me that I may have gotten in over my head. I had come mostly on an intellectual exercise and out of undeniable curiosity, but the memories of the life we used to live, memories deliberately untouched by me for so many years, unrelived and unrelieved, might turn out to be too much for me.

I was frozen, still looking up. I had remembered those windows as large and majestic. But they were small and old, with cracked frames.

I didn’t know what to say.

“Papa,” I said, “didn’t you one November try to walk on the ledge from one window to the other?”

“Yes,” he said, with a sheepish titter. “We were celebrating. I had a little too much to drink. I can’t believe you remember that.”

I walked under the windows and stood there staring. This was not how I wanted to see the house where I grew up, with Viktor, standing by us not understanding — and who’d want to explain it to him anyway? And what to explain when I didn’t understand it myself, why seeing two old windows would fill my insides with such unexpected anguish.

I didn’t want to see them this way, not with Papa, standing by me smoking, in a hurry to get going. I wanted to find the windows myself. To walk up to my building, to stand and linger at the concert hall, to cross Grechesky Prospekt as a grown woman, remembering crossing it as a little girl, who tried to find some friends to play with while my mother cooked dinner.

I wanted to have a reaction that didn’t include my father looking at me for a reaction.

I hoped my face was blank.

I stared at the windows and my father stared at me.

“Okay?” he said. “Ready to go?”

“Absolutely,” I replied, getting into the car.

As we drove down Fifth Soviet, my father showed me a little park at the end of the street where he used to walk me in the stroller when I was a baby.

“I don’t remember that park,” I said.

“You were a baby.”

Briefly I caught sight of the avenue flanking the other side of Fifth Soviet, Suvorovsky Prospekt. Seeing Leningrad this way, from the back of a car, was surreal, as we whizzed away and crossed the Neva. It was as if I were looking at Leningrad though the myopic viewfinder of a stranger’s camera.

We were driving through a part of town I’d never been to. That was better. It wasn’t hitting close to home.

If I thought there were few people in the center of town, then here, the city was practically deserted: just a western ghost town. It was more deserted than the western side of Topeka, Kansas, after the city opened up a new shopping mall on the east side, near Lake Vaquero.

I focused on looking out of the window onto the treeless street, as I filled up inside from the bottom up with a swell of a quiet wave.

To avoid thinking, actually to avoid feeling, I asked Viktor when the sun set in Leningrad these days.

“Oh,” said Viktor. “Now it sets, I guess, around nine in the evening.”

“Nine?” I was mildly surprised to hear that, because we came to Leningrad on 13 July — the day after the World Cup Final — so we could see the white nights.

In Texas in the summer the sun set around nine, and there certainly weren’t any white nights in Texas.

“There are no more white nights,” Viktor said firmly. “No. It’s quite dark by about ten.”

Disappointment felt better than what I had been feeling.

The southeastern part of town we were driving through looked shabby to me. Away from the city center, the buildings, not regulated by zoning ordinances, were built larger. I didn’t understand these tall nine-story buildings, all broken apart, with balconies filled with hanging clothes and wood and debris. Nothing had been painted. The windows were rotted out.

“When were these apartments built?” I asked carefully. I didn’t want to offend anyone. Viktor could live in one of these.

“Some in the sixties, some in the seventies,” he replied.

I couldn’t help but say the wrong thing. “The nineteen sixties?”

“Of course,” Viktor said from the front of the car, as my father smoked and said nothing.

Finally my father spoke. “You remember your Babushka and Dedushka’s apartment building?”

“Of course.”

“It was exactly like one of these buildings,” said my father.

I didn’t believe it. Their apartment on Polustrovsky seemed so luxurious to me, the dank staircase with the drunk fainted man lying on the landing notwithstanding.

“That’s not true,” I said.

“Exactly,” my father repeated quietly, “like one of these buildings.”

Viktor showed us an outdoor market, telling us it was a hotbed of drug activity. It looked like a rural supermarket with some stands. It looked harmless and Russian. Apparently selling illegal drugs in outdoor supermarkets was now a Russian thing to do.

Anatoly and Ellie lived near the market on a street called Ulitsa Dybenko, lined with the once-white tenement slum dormitory halls with unswept sidewalks and unmowed grasses and sloppy trees. Unswept, unpainted, run down.

What St. Petersburg needed, I decided was a community association like the one we had in Stonebridge Ranch, Texas. The association oversaw how high our grass could grow and the size and color of our play fort in the back yard.

Didn’t I just get a third letter from the association warning me of severe penalties and loss of privileges if we didn’t immediately plant shrubs in front of our air conditioning units? That’s just what St. Petersburg needed. Foliage police. First, though, they would need to get some air conditioning units.

Anatoly

It took us a few minutes to find where Anatoly and Ellie lived. Their group of buildings looked inauspiciously the same as all the others we had just passed. My father had trouble locating the right one.

“What street is this?” Papa asked Viktor. “Is this still Dybenko?”

“I think so,” Viktor replied. “The tram is running through it, see?”

“Yes, yes.”

“Maybe there is a street sign?” I offered helpfully.

“No,” Papa barked. “There are no street signs.”

We drove around amidst the buildings.

“Papa, have you been here before?”

“Of course I have, but look, the buildings all look the same.”

“What number is it?”

“Thirty-eight, but that won’t help. There are no numbers posted on the buildings.”

“Oh.”

“Look!” My father exclaimed. “I think that’s Ellie on the balcony, waiting for us.” We pulled up to the building, got out of the car, and my father waved. The woman on the balcony didn’t move. “No, it’s not her,” my father said, shoulders slumping. “But I’m pretty sure this is the building. Yes, I’m almost positive.”

We let Viktor go until later that evening and walked up to the front door.

“Do you know what apartment number it is?” I asked him.

“Yes,” he said. He sounded unsure. The door looked as if it hermetically sealed the building from the outside. There was no handle, no lock, no hinges, just a metal bar running down the length of it. It almost didn’t look like a door, but a metal part of the wall. “Number nineteen,” he said.

My father seemed to know what to do, to my surprise. There were no names next to apartment numbers, no little black square buttons you pressed to ring the bell. There were no apartment numbers. No intercom. Instead there was a contraption like a giant combination lock. Papa turned three dials, one to 0, one to 1 and one to 9 and pressed a button.

In a few seconds, there was a buzz and the door sort of popped open an inch or so. Papa put his hands inside the metal re-bar and pulled it open the rest of the way.

We walked into a tiny, dark, low-ceilinged entrance hall that smelled of old urine. Not that new urine would have been much better. My father had two heavy bags he brought with him. I carried one while he carried the other. The stairs were narrow, the landing even narrower.

To carry the bag up the narrowest stairs I had to hold it in front of me. There was no room for me and the bag side by side.

Why do we have to walk up seven steps to get to the elevator? I thought. Haven’t the Russians heard of the 1991 Persons with Disabilities Act?

When we got to the elevator, I had to hold my breath not to smell eau de urine.

As we waited in the gloomy hall, to make polite conversation, I asked, “So… Babushka’s and Dedushka’s building was like this?” Trying (poorly) to hide my rank skepticism.

“Almost,” my father said. “Theirs didn’t have an elevator.”

The elevator door opened; my father hopped in, and the door promptly started to shut before I even got near it. I shoved the bag in the door, which continued to close unmindful of me or the bag. For the next fifteen seconds the door and I engaged in a fierce battle of wills while my father stood and watched with the helpless yet detached expression of a television viewer.

Finally, I won.

I got into the elevator, out of breath, and I asked my father what seemed to me a reasonable question to ask in an elevator. I asked, “What floor?”

At first I thought he hadn’t heard me. I was about to repeat myself when he said, chuckling, “I really don’t know.”

“Have you been here before?”

“Many times. But I can’t remember the floor.”

The number of the apartment was 19. What floor would that be? Using logic and inferential deductive reasoning, what would we in America do?

“Is the first floor?”

“No, definitely not.”

“Is it the nineteenth floor?”

“The building has only nine stories.”

“Is it the ninth floor?”

“No, they’re not on the last floor. I’m sure of that.”

We stood and waited. The elevator door remained calmly open, as if, in fact, it had no intention of ever closing again.

My father pressed floor 8. “Maybe it’s eight,” he said. “Though I don’t think they’re up so high.”

The elevator creaked up to eight, and before the doors had a chance to open completely, they began to close again. I squeezed myself out first between the vise-like grip of the doors and then pried them to remain half-open so my dad and his bag could get out too.

We stood on the small landing with three apartment doors, none of which was open. “This is not the floor,” Papa said, and then stood near the stairs and yelled, “Ellie? Ellie!”

A woman’s voice from below yelled back, “Yura!”

“Ellie! Where are you?”

“I’m coming down!” Ellie yelled.

We heard footsteps somewhere below us, heading down the stairs.

“No, don’t come down, we’re up! Up on the eighth floor.”

The footsteps stopped. There was a silence. “What are you doing up there?” a woman’s quizzical voice asked.

“I forgot what floor you’re on! What floor are you on?”

Ellie laughed. “We’re on fifth.”

“Fifth,” I said. “Of course.”

“We’re coming down,” yelled Papa.

We were coming down when the elevator decided we were coming down and not a moment before. It took several minutes.

On the fifth floor, Ellie was standing on the landing waiting for us. I hadn’t seen her in twenty-five years, yet she looked just as I remembered her. She was blonde, with the same sweet, small-nosed, freckled, clear-eyed pixie smiling face. Her arms were open to hug me.

We walked inside her apartment. “Where is Anatoly?” my father asked.

“He is getting bread. He’ll be here soon,” she said, looking at me, smiling happily at my father.

Ellie showed me their apartment. It was tiny. This is where they are after living in Russia for 60 years? But a smiling Ellie proudly showed me her tiny kitchen with a sunny view and I realized with shame that she thought she had done quite well having such a nice apartment in Russia.

I made a mental note not to be such a judgmental idiot. What did I know? Nothing. And what I did know I had obviously spent twenty-five years succeeding in forgetting.

There was a short corridor with two narrow doors. “Those are the bathrooms,” said Ellie. “One is a toilet, and the other is a bath. Do you need a toilet?”

“Not right now.”

“Good,” said my father. “Because I’m going to put my things down and take a shower. Is that okay, Ellie? Before dinner?”

“Of course,” she said.

Ellie showed me the rest of the apartment which even after my trying very hard to do mental gymnastics, still remained much smaller than our first American railroad apartment in Woodside, Queens, to which the nice Italian landlady had brought us lasagna.

My father was going to be occupying the computer room for the next six days.

Ellie showed me the 10 by 16-foot living room in the middle of which stood a dining room table and a 10 by 12 front bedroom with a narrow long concrete balcony that overlooked Ulitsa Dybenko. I guessed that it had indeed been Ellie who had stood on the balcony and watched us as we pulled up in Viktor’s car. When we got to the bedroom, Ellie said, smiling, “Plinka, why don’t you stay with us? You see, we have plenty of room for you. We would give you our bed.”

“No, stop it,” I said. “Where would you sleep?”

“Oh, we’re living at our dacha now.” All the Russians live at the dacha — their summer house — during the summer months.

“Oh, yeah? Where is it?”

“Lisiy Nos.”

I shook my head. “Lisiy Nos. Never heard of it. Don’t know where that is.”

“Across the Gulf from your Babushka and Dedushka’s dacha in Shepelevo.”

“Where we’re going tomorrow, by the way,” my father pitched in from the other room.

“Oh, so you’re in Karelia?” I said excitedly. Part of my book I planned to set there. “Papa, how do you say isthmus in English? Is it peninsula?”

“No, not peninsula,” he called out. “Peninsula is surrounded by water on three sides, isthmus on two.”

“Oh.”

He stuck his head in. “So what two bodies of water surround the Karelian Isthmus? Do you know?”

“Ha! Of course I do,” I said, thinking furiously. “Gulf of Finland and Lake Ladoga?”

He laughed. “Why is there a question mark at the end? Are you asking me or telling me? Because I know.”

I saw an empty bottle of Lancôme’s Tresor perfume on the nightstand. “Your mother gave me this, when she was here last,” said Ellie. “It’s all gone, but I really liked it. The bottle still smells of it a little.”

The floor was warped hardwood, the cabinets, the tables, the red curtains, the bed, the bed stand were simple and old. I looked at their dark wallpaper. I needed to say something. The wallpaper looked new, not peeling off the walls, Pointing to the bedroom, I said, “Nice wallpaper.”

“That one?” Ellie said dismissively. “What about this one?” We went to the living room with the dining room table. The wallpaper reminded me of the paper in my former council house in England; paper that was once yellow but had darkened to sooty gray with cigarette smoke; paper we had spent money we didn’t have to remove.

Ellie smiled. “It’s from Europe.”

“Oh,” I said. “Europe. Very nice.”

I saw my father down the hall, coming out of one door with towels, then going back in with a change of clothes.

After he reappeared in the living room, all fresh and washed, Ellie said to him, “Did you have a nice shower? Plinka, maybe you want to have a shower today? The water is nice and hot. Have one. Because tomorrow they’re turning it off.” She glanced at me and chuckled.

I chuckled back. “Oh, yeah?” I said. “Don’t worry. I can have a shower at the hotel.” I paused. “When will they turn your water back on?”

“August 5^th,” Ellie replied without blinking.

I stared rather dumbly at her. “You don’t mean no hot water.”

“Yes.”

“In the whole building?”

“Right. Will you stay? You can sleep in our bed.”

Before I could answer, my father said, “No hot water? Paullina, I’ll have to come and shower at your hotel.”

That’s when Ellie’s husband Anatoly came home.

Anatoly and my father had known each other since 1952, when my father and Anatoly were 16. They had known each other ten years before my father and mother met and married, eleven before I was born. If it weren’t for Anatoly, there would be no pictures of me as a baby, there would be no home movie of three-year-old me being stung by a bee while eating watermelon in the Red Cave in the Caucasus Mountains by the Black Sea. If it weren’t for Anatoly, there would be no footage of my mother and father meeting and falling in love in a seaside resort town in 1962.

I was dismayed by how gaunt Anatoly was. The ragged lines in his face made him look much older than my father. I remembered Anatoly as such a happy, slender, funny man.

He was still funny — and slender. Withered maybe?

A few minutes later, Anatoly’s brother Viktor and his wife Luba arrived. Viktor was thin, bald and had a gray beard. Viktor and Anatoly were twins, and they had lived through the blockade of Leningrad when they were six years old. That meant that Anatoly was only a year older than my father. That was hard to believe. Viktor’s only son Paul had left Russia some years ago to study engineering in Princeton.

I had already met Paul as a grown man. When we were living in New York, he came to our house to celebrate New Year’s Eve 1995. He was a polite young man, very inquisitive. He walked around my entire house, looked at every book on my shelves, pressed every button on my VCR and laser disc player and TV, crashed my Macintosh computer, and got hold of my camera. When I developed the photos, I discovered that he took pictures not of my kids, or the Christmas tree, or the people at the party, but of an empty cake plate. A dirty fork. My cat sleeping under the table.

I shared this with his parents, Viktor and Luba. They laughed joyously and said, “Yes, Pasha is like that. He does the same at our house when he comes to visit. He is always adjusting the color temperature on the TV.”

I asked what he was doing nowadays besides adjusting the color on their TV. They told me Pasha had recently married a Russian girl and took her to Princeton with him.

I was waiting for my friend Alla to arrive. Finally she showed up, with her husband — another Viktor — and their two children, Marina and Andrew.

Alla and I had once been best friends. She looked remarkably lovely and remarkably as I remembered her. Her hair was short instead of long, but her freckles were the same, her upturned nose, her round eyes, and she was still taller than me. And still two years older. This pleased me: I wasn’t the oldest young person in the room. I had found myself less than pleased in recent years to know that I was the oldest in my circle of family and friends, as my husband, younger than me by six months, never ceases to remind me. I liked the grown up Alla immediately.

Alla’s husband Viktor was good-looking for a Russian man in a generic European sort of way; he didn’t look particularly Russian. I thought he was our age, but when I found out he was 44, I was shocked that someone who looked my age could be 44. There is just no kidding yourself with 44. It seemed so old to me. There is no kidding yourself with 34 either, because no matter how misspent and wasted the youth, there was no denying that whatever your life was now, it was no longer misspent, nor youthful.

I realized shamefully that I was underdressed and had no hope of ever becoming overdressed on this trip unless I went shopping. Alla and her husband wore suits, the kids were all neat, attired in Sunday clothes and church silent. Luba wore a dress with stockings and black high-heeled pumps. They got dressed up to meet me, to make a good impression on me.

I went out on the balcony for some fresh air. Papa was there smoking. We didn’t speak. I went back inside where smoking was not allowed.

In any case, the sight of rural Russia outside the balcony windows, with its declining grass and wooden huts and broken roads was a bit much for me on my first Russian evening. I needed to continue to believe that my father’s friends and my childhood friend were living well in Russia.

We began to squish around the dining room table, flanked on one side by three chairs and on the other side by a couch, on which three people would have to sit, and sit low. I did not want to be one of those people. With the table so high, I would have had to ask someone to pass the food down to me.

I didn’t like having just my head showing above the table. I sat in a chair.

The food, and there was plenty, was served on Ellie’s best china. We drank vodka out of crystal shot-glasses and wine out of elegant goblets. For appetizers or zakuski, we had herring, crab and rice salad, smoked salmon, tomato and cucumber salad, radish salad, and plenty of fresh white bread. I ate as much as I could, and had four shots of vodka, all with toasts, one to me, one to Papa, one to the hosts, one to the new generation. More than two hours had passed since we started dinner. Suddenly the plates and the zakuski disappeared, and were replaced by large dinner plates, on which we were served steamed turkey and boiled potatoes with dill. No one could eat one more bite, yet we all did, and drank more vodka to wash down our food.

“It’s very hard for us, Paullina,” Ellie was saying. “Very hard. I get a pension, and we have to live on that. I used to have a good salary when I was working. It’s hard to get by on just the pension.”

“What about Anatoly? He doesn’t work?”

“No, he works,” she said evasively. “He works writing scientific papers doing research for an engineering company.”

“Well! That sounds like a good job.”

“Mmm. So-so. He hasn’t gotten paid in four months.”

To punctuate that I had another shot of vodka. “Four months?”

“Hmm.”

“Why does he continue to go to work?”

Ellie shrugged. “As opposed to what? Anyway, sometimes he goes, sometimes he doesn’t.”

Ellie said she missed going to work.

“Oh, yeah?” I said. “What was your job?”

It’s not that she didn’t tell me. She did. Her work had something to do submarines and traveling all over the world. I realized I had too much vodka and the words she was saying to me in Russian weren’t part of my ten-year-old vocabulary. Sometimes I would ask her to repeat a word, but I found that didn’t make me understand her any better. If anything, it confused me.

Maybe splashing some cold water on my face would help. The whole vodka thing had to stop. How does my father do it?

Standing up shakily, I asked Ellie where the bathroom was.

She walked me to the bathroom. “Right in here,” she said, and sounded proud, much like she sounded about her wallpaper. “If you need to wash your hands, get out and go to the washroom, okay?”

I went inside a cubicle three feet by two feet and locked myself in, clipping the hook on the eye.

The toilet did not smell fresh, nor was it white. Or clean.

And the toilet paper was cheap and rough.

The flush was not intuitive. There was no flush handle, or a button, or a cord to pull. I doubted very much that there was an infra-red sensor system installed. I saw a series of metal wires. I pulled on something several times, and when that failed, I stuck my head outside and inquired further of Ellie. Eventually, I pulled the metal wires up. The toilet flushed.

The washroom had a bathtub with three two-gallon-size pans in it. Clothes were draped over the pans. A hand-held shower was attached to the tub faucet. The faucet in the sink was a thin metal pipe that ran off the bathtub faucet. The metal pipe had two levers on it, one for cold, one for hot, which in 24 hours was about to become non-functional for three weeks.

As I came out, I found Ellie in the kitchen cleaning up. While I helped her, she continued with her story. She told me she used to get paid a lot, but since she had retired, her pension was only 380 rubles a month.

Three hundred and eighty rubles a month. It sounded bigger if I didn’t translate it into dollars.

“But Ellie,” I finally said. “How can that be? That’s only about sixty four dollars.”

She shrugged, as if to agree. But then she said, “Don’t you remember how much your mother and father got paid when they lived here? Three hundred and eighty rubles is actually a very good pension. Your mother used to make a hundred rubles for a full month’s work.”

“Yes, yes, she did.” I wanted to ask how that translated into today’s rubles.

“Ellie, how do you pay for your apartment?”

“No-how,” she replied. “We don’t. We get vouchers. When they will pay Tolya, then we will pay rent. We haven’t paid in three months.”

Back at the table, Anatoly asked me questions about my first novel Tully and the only one of my books so far to have been translated into Russian, therefore the only one of my books Anatoly had read since he could not read or speak English. He wanted to know if the story of Tully was true or if it was made up, and if so, how could I make up all those details, as if I really knew her.

Anatoly was an aspiring writer himself, as almost everyone in Russia is — a writer or a poet. His brother Viktor — a poet — kept saying, “Give it to her, go on, give it to her. Why won’t you? You have to. Go on. She’d love to read it.” Anatoly would ignore his brother for a few seconds and then snap: “Why do you keep going at me? Give it to her, give it to her. She is too busy to read it. You think she has time to read it?”

“Read what?” I inquired politely.

Viktor said proudly, “Oh, Tolya wrote a book too. Just like you.”

“Hardly a book,” Anatoly chimed in.

“No a book, a book. All right, maybe smaller than Paullina’s book.”

“War and Peace is smaller than Paullina’s book,” said my fathers who had overheard.

“But bigger than a short story,” Viktor continued.

“A novella, maybe?” I offered helpfully.

“Yes, yes,” exclaimed both brothers. “A novella!”

Anatoly lowered his voice. “It’s about the time your father and I and Ellie met, it’s about a long time ago.”

“Oh,” I said. “Nostalgia?” As if I knew what it meant to have lived a life and now, at 60, to look back at yourself when you had been twenty, full of youth and sweet hope.

“Yes, nostalgia,” said Anatoly.

“It’s very well written,” said Viktor.

“Oh, Vitya,” said Anatoly. “It’s not up to us to say that. We have an author among us. Now her opinion is what’s important.”

“Give it to her, give it to her, go on.”

“She has no time to read it. She is too busy.”

“I am pretty busy, but do give it to me. I’ll be glad to read it.”

“See? What did I tell you, what did I tell you?” exclaimed Viktor. “I told you she’d read it.”

I went out on the balcony. There was only a little area where I could stand because the rest of it was covered with old chairs, large and small pieces of wood, and dirty white plastic chunks. My father came out to smoke. We stood without saying anything. I went back inside.

We had sat for many hours at the table, but I knew that couldn’t be because the sun hadn’t moved in the sky. Every time I looked outside, it remained directly above our fifth floor windows.

After the dinner plates were cleared, I breezily asked what time it was. I didn’t want to look at my own watch to give the impression I wanted to be going. Alla said, nine o’clock.

“No way,” I said, looking at my own watch. It was nine twenty. I looked outside. The sun was 60 degrees high in the sky. Didn’t Viktor tell me it was going to get dark around nine?

When he returned to drive me back to my hotel — around ten — I said, “Viktor, what do you see outside?”

“I know, I know,” he said. “What was I thinking? I got confused.”

Maybe a man living in Leningrad didn’t notice the sun up in the sky at ten in the evening anymore, much the same as a man driving through Connecticut in the fall didn’t notice the sugar maples, or a man living in Texas didn’t notice the hundred-degree heat. The East Coast man didn’t notice his ocean, the Arizona man his Grand Canyon.

I would notice.

Yet clearly Viktor, despite his whole life of living in Leningrad, had not internalized that white nights began on 20 May and ended on 16 July, year after year after year. For 50 days and nights, no streetlights were lit in the city so nothing could detract from the sky and the sun. How could someone who lived in Leningrad not know that? If someone asked me what the weather was like in Dallas in the summer, I would say without missing a beat that frequently we had daily temperatures of between 105-108° Fahrenheit, or 40-42° Celsius. If someone asked what was the temperature in Dallas at midnight in July, I would say without hesitation, 94°F. But then I hadn’t lived in Dallas my whole life the way Viktor had lived in Leningrad.

Maybe it required a lifetime residence in Texas to notice the heat no more than Viktor noticed the citrus sun at 11 p.m.

We ate dessert and drank tea out of china cups and saucers. Alla had made a 14-inch round cake from scratch with whipped cream, fresh fruit and rum. Though we had been eating since five in the evening, in a matter of twenty minutes all the cake was gone.

My father was busy telling everyone our plans for tomorrow. We were going to Shepelevo.

After Shepelevo, he started to schedule the rest of the week. Everyone at the table chimed in with a suggestion.

“You’re here to do research about the siege, Plinka,” said Anatoly. “You have to go to Piskarev Cemetery, the memorial to the dead.”

My father said, “We’re going there on Wednesday. Ladies and gentlemen, I have it all planned out. You’re not dealing with an infant. You’re dealing with a professional manager.”

“I really want to see your hotel room,” Ellie said. It’s not every day we get to go to Hotel Europe.”

Yes, of course, come.

Alla wanted to have the hotel breakfast buffet with blini and caviar I had told her about.

Yes, of course, come.

Viktor, Anatoly’s brother, wanted to show me where the music stores were. “I have a car, you know,” he said. “We could drive anywhere.”

Yes, of course.

Anatoly wanted to walk with me through the streets of Leningrad talk about the siege.

Yes, of course.

Ellie wanted to come, too.

Yes, of course, come. And how about if we go out to dinner, too?

Everybody wanted to know when I was going to call Yulia, my only cousin. Yulia’s father and my father are brothers.

I’ll call her soon.

“You want to use the phone?” asked Anatoly.

Maybe not that soon. I’ll call her from the hotel.

My father shook his head. “Paullina, it’s getting late. And we have a big day ahead of us tomorrow.”

We stood up. I got my camera and my purse to go.

“Paullina,” my father said, “don’t go walking the streets right now. All right? Go to your hotel room, relax, get some rest, and tomorrow we go to Shepelevo. All right? Shepelevo, Paullina.” And again looking into my face for a reaction.

I widened my eyes. “I know, Papa.”

Viktor went to use the water closet before we left, and I said to my father, “Papa,” I said, “does Viktor have to come with us to Shepelevo?”

“What do you mean?”

“I know he is going to drive us, but what is he going to do when we get there?”

“What do you mean?”

I didn’t know how to say what I meant. “Well, is there some place for him to go while we walk around, or is he going to walk around with us?”

Papa thought, smoked. “There is no place. He is going to have to come with us. Why?”

I didn’t know what to say to why.

“Papa, Viktor is very nice, I’m sure, but we don’t know him. I don’t know him.”

“So?”

“Well, what if I want to cry? What if we want to cry?”

Papa didn’t know what to say. “Me cry? What are you crazy? And how would we get there without Viktor?”

“Take public transportation.” I brightened, became positively lively. “Like we used to!” It was important to me to completely recreate my Shepelevo experience.

“Me, take public transportation in Leningrad?” said my father. “No, you are crazy.” He turned to Ellie. “Ellie, my daughter has gone completely mad.”

“Your Papa is right,” Ellie said brightly. Why do you have to go to Shepelevo? Stay in Leningrad.”

Besides me, Viktor also drove Alla, Viktor, and their children home. The tenement houses along the Prospekt of Bolsheviks that turned into Prospekt of Five-Year-Plans were notable not only for their striking contrast against the near-midnight sun but also for the satellite dishes that hung off the crumbling walls. The buildings looked like dark rectangular giants rising up along the wide boulevard as the sun set behind them and into our faces. With different buildings it would have been a spectacular view.

But you know… Boston has the buildings, but doesn’t have the midnight sun. At what price midnight sun? “Wait,” I said. “Let me get out. I have to take a picture.”

“What are you taking a picture of?” asked Alla. “That’s just our building.”

“I’m taking a picture of the satellite dishes.”

“Why?” asked Alla. “You don’t have them in America?”

I said goodbye to my friend, and Viktor and I cruised along the river Neva, as the sun set on it. We neared one of the most famous Leningrad landmarks — Peter and Paul’s Fortress and Cathedral.

The Imperial Russians used to put you in prison and when you rotted and died they buried you inside an gorgeous ancient tomb right on the premises. The service and burial all took place a hundred paces from where you lived out your miserable life behind bars. The Communists who didn’t believe in God turned the whole place into a museum. Only when Communism fell did Peter and Paul’s church become active again. So active in fact that Nicholas Romanov and his family’s remains were going to be interred in it come Friday and my father and I were going to watch.

The cathedral’s golden spire glowed in the sunshine and reflected into the Neva. The fortress was built on a tiny, artificially made island by Peter the Great just inside the Neva delta to defend the city against Northern invaders.

Across the narrow canal called the Kronverk Strait was the artillery museum, which is where we got out. I wanted to get a picture of the surface-to-air artillery tank that was aimed directly at Peter and Paul’s spire.

The picture looked unfocused through the viewfinder. Before I could utter a “huh,” I heard a ripping noise coming from inside my camera. I tried again. I heard the lens inside cracking. I tried to take another picture but was unable to. The camera had stopped working. What a shame. The midnight sun was extraordinary.

Viktor said, “We’ll just come back another night and drive along this route, so you can take another picture.”

“I’d have to get a camera first,” I said, fully dejected.

We drove along the river embankment, crossed the Palace Bridge, passed the Winter Palace, and went down Nevsky Prospekt. In two minutes we were at my hotel.

“Viktor,” I asked, “how serious was my father when he told me not to walk around by myself at night?”

Viktor by way of answer said he would park the car and go with me. I declined. I wanted to know if it was safe for me to be alone. I didn’t want to walk with Viktor. I wanted to walk alone through Leningrad.

I returned to my room instead, where I opened my blinds and looked out onto the Italian Gardens. The trees were covered in shadow. Inside the park was quite dusky, but all I had to do was look up at the violet sky to dispel the illusion of night.

I spent a long time in the bathroom, taking off my make-up and getting ready for bed.

Walking aimlessly around the room, I suddenly remembered my defunct camera.

I called Anatoly to talk to my dad but Ellie told me he’d already gone to bed. “Tell him,” I said, “that he’ll have to pick me up a half hour later because I have to go and buy myself a camera.”

There was a bit of general clucking about my camera. “Are you sure it’s broken?” “How do you know?” “Are you sure it’s not supposed to make a ripping grinding noise?” Finally Ellie promised to give my father the message but not before she added, “What do you need a camera for, anyway?”

I thought about calling Texas. By the time I figured out what time it was there — late afternoon — I was too tired to talk to anyone.

Still I could not sleep. Images of the day kept intruding, like late night TV, but I couldn’t turn them off. My first day in Russia here and gone. Turn it off, turn it off. It wasn’t like I had expected. I don’t know what I expected. Not this. Something else.

Also I hadn’t expected to feel about any of it. Not this. Something else.

To ease my mind I tried to look forward to Shepelevo. Was I happy to be going there? I had dreamt of going there for 25 years, my idealized childhood heaven. In adolescence I dreamt of Shepelevo, in puberty, maturity, womanhood, I dreamt of Shepelevo. Now we were going back. How did I feel?

Happier, I decided, than I felt about returning to Fifth Soviet.

But not by much.

This was not an academic exercise, I belatedly realized, like the brief research trip to Dartmouth College, the setting for Red Leaves. Leningrad meant something to me — to see the crumbled stucco, to look at the window frames as old as Communism, to see Ellie’s wallpaper. What did it mean to me? On this first day, it was just a thread of pain and I couldn’t grasp its meaning.

I sat at the edge of my bed and looked at the hardwood floor.

By the time I fell asleep it was after two, the sky a metallic blue, blinds, curtains, windows wide open.