Armand Gamache arrived in the late afternoon on the brooding islands after taking increasingly smaller planes until it seemed the last was nothing more than fuselage wrapped round his body and thrust off the end of the Prince Rupert runway.
As the tiny float plane flew over the archipelago off the coast of northern British Columbia Gamache looked down on a landscape of mountains and thick ancient forests. It had been hidden for millennia behind mists almost as impenetrable as the trees. It had remained isolated. But not alone. It was a cauldron of life that had produced both the largest black bears in the world and the smallest owls. It was teeming with life. Indeed, the first men were discovered in a giant clam shell by a raven off the tip of one of the islands. That, according to their creation stories, was how the Haida came to live there. More recently loggers had also been found on the islands. That wasn’t part of creation. They’d looked beyond the thick mists and seen money. They’d arrived on the Charlottes a century ago, blind to the crucible they’d stumbled upon and seeing only treasure. The ancient forests of red cedar. Trees prized for their durability, having been tall and straight long before Queen Charlotte was born and married her mad monarch. But now they fell to the saw, to be made into shingles and decks and siding. And ten small carvings.
After landing smoothly on the water the young bush pilot helped extricate the large man from her small plane.
“Welcome to Haida Gwaii,” she said.
When Gamache had woken early that morning in Three Pines and found a groggy Gabri in the kitchen making a small picnic for the drive to the Montreal airport, he knew nothing about these islands half a world away. But on the long flights from Montreal to Vancouver, to Prince Rupert and into the village of Queen Charlotte, he’d read about the islands and he knew that phrase.
“Thank you for bringing me to your homeland.”
The pilot’s deep brown eyes were suspicious, as well they would be, thought Gamache. The arrival of yet another middle-aged white man in a suit was never a good sign. You didn’t have to be Haida to know that.
“You must be Chief Inspector Gamache.”
A burly man with black hair and skin the color of cedar was walking across the dock, his hand out. They shook.
“I’m Sergeant Minshall, of the RCMP. We’ve been corresponding.”
His voice was deep and had a slight sing-song quality. He was Haida.
“Ah, oui, merci. Thank you for meeting the plane.”
The Mountie took the overnight bag from the pilot and slung it over his shoulder. Thanking the pilot, who ignored them, the two men walked to the end of the dock, up a ramp and along the road. There was a bite to the air and Gamache had to remember they were closer to Alaska than Vancouver.
“I see you’re not staying long.”
Gamache looked out into the ocean and knew the mainland had disappeared. No, it was not that it had vanished, but that it didn’t exist at all here. This was the mainland.
“I wish I could stay longer, it’s beautiful. But I have to get back.”
“Right. I’ve arranged a room for you at the lodge. I think you’ll enjoy it. There aren’t many people on the Queen Charlottes, as you probably know. Maybe five thousand, with half being Haida and half,” he hesitated slightly, “not. We get quite a few tourists, but the season’s ending.”
The two men had slowed and now they stopped. They’d walked by a hardware store, a coffee shop, a little building with a mermaid out front. But it was the harbor that drew Gamache’s attention. He’d never seen such scenery in all his life, and he’d seen some spectacularly beautiful places in Quebec. But none, he had to admit, came close to this.
It was wilderness. As far as he could see there were mountains rising from the water, covered in dark forest. He could see an island and fishing boats. Overhead, eagles soared. The men walked onto the beach, which was covered in pebbles and shells, and stood silent for a few minutes, listening to the birds and the lapping water and smelling the air with that combination of seaweed and fish and forest.
“There’re more eagle nests here than anywhere else in Canada, you know. It’s a sign of good luck.”
It wasn’t often an RCMP officer spoke of signs, unless it was traffic signs. Gamache didn’t turn to look at the man, he was too taken by the view, but he listened.
“The Haida have two clans. The Eagle and the Raven. I’ve arranged for you to meet with elders from both clans. They’ve invited you for dinner.”
“Thank you. Will you be there?”
Sergeant Minshall smiled. “No. I thought it’d be more comfortable without me. The Haida are very warm people, you know. They’ve lived here for thousands of years, undisturbed. Until recently.”
It was interesting, Gamache thought, that he referred to the Haida as “they” not “we.” Perhaps it was for Gamache’s benefit, so he didn’t appear biased.
“I’ll try not to disturb them tonight.”
“It’s too late.”
Armand Gamache showered, shaved and wiped the vapor from the mirror. It was as though the mist that hung over the ancient forests had crept into his room. Perhaps to watch him. To divine his intentions.
He made a small hole in the moisture and saw a very tired Sûreté officer, far from home.
Changing into a fresh shirt and dark slacks he picked out a tie and sat on the side of the double bed, which was covered in what looked like a hand-stitched quilt.
The room was simple and clean and comfortable. But it could be filled with turnips and it wouldn’t matter. All anyone would notice was the view. It looked directly over the bay. The sunset filled the sky with gold and purples and reds, undulating and shifting. Alive. Everything seemed alive here.
He gravitated to the window and stared while his hands tied his green silk tie. There was a knock on the door. He opened it, expecting the landlady or Sergeant Minshall, and was surprised to see the young bush pilot.
“Noni, my great-grandmother, asked me to bring you to dinner.”
She still didn’t smile. In fact, she seemed singularly unhappy about the fact. He put on a gray jacket and his coat and they walked into the darkening night. Lights were on in the homes that hugged the harbor. The air was cold and damp, but fresh, and it woke him up so that he felt more alert than he had all afternoon. They climbed into an old pickup truck and headed out of town.
“So you’re from the Charlottes?”
“I’m from Haida Gwaii,” she said.
“Of course, I’m sorry. Are you with the Eagle clan?”
“Raven.”
“Ah,” said Gamache, and realized he sounded slightly ridiculous, but the young woman beside him didn’t seem to care. She seemed more interested in ignoring him completely.
“Your family must be very pleased you’re a pilot.”
“Why?”
“Well, flying.”
“Because I’m a Raven? Everyone here flies, Chief Inspector. I just need more help.”
“Have you been a pilot long?”
There was silence then. Evidently his question wasn’t worth answering. And he had to agree. Silence was better. His eyes adjusted to the night and he was able to make out the line of mountains across the bay as they drove. After a few minutes they arrived at another village. The young pilot stopped the pickup in front of a nondescript white building that had a sign out front. Skidegate Community Hall. She got out and walked to the door, never looking back to see if he was following. She either trusted he was there or, more likely, didn’t care.
He left the twilit harbor and followed her through the door into the Community Hall. And into an opera house. Gamache turned round to make sure there was a door there and he hadn’t, magically, emerged into another world. They were surrounded by ornate balconies on three sides. Gamache did a slow 360, his feet squeaking a little on the polished wood floor. Only then did he realize his mouth was slightly open. He closed it and looked at the young woman beside him.
“Mais, c’est extraordinaire.”
“Haw’aa.”
Wide, gracious staircases led up to the balconies and at the far end of the room was a stage. Behind it a mural had been painted on the wall.
“That’s a Haida village,” she said, nodding toward it.
“Incroyable,” whispered Gamache. The Chief Inspector was often surprised, astonished, by life. But he was rarely dumbfounded. He was now.
“Do you like it?”
Gamache looked down and realized they’d been joined by another woman, much older than his companion or himself. And unlike his companion this woman smiled. It looked, by the ease of it, as though she found a lot of humor in life.
“Very much.” He put out his hand, and she took it.
“This is my noni,” said the pilot.
“Esther,” she said.
“Armand Gamache,” said the Chief, bowing slightly. “It’s an honor.”
“The honor is mine, Chief Inspector. Please.” She motioned into the center of the room where a long table had been set. There was a rich aroma of cooked food, and the room was filled with people talking, greeting, calling to each other. And laughing.
He’d expected the gathering of Haida elders to be in traditional garb. He was embarrassed now by that cliché. Instead the men and women were dressed as they’d come from work, some in T-shirts and heavy sweaters, some in suits. Some worked in the bank, the school, the clinic; some worked on the cold waters. Some were artists. Painters, but mostly carvers.
“This is a matrilineal society, Chief Inspector,” Esther explained. “But most of the chiefs are men. Though that doesn’t mean women are powerless. Quite the opposite.”
She looked at him, her eyes clear. It was a simple statement. Not a boast.
She then introduced him to everyone, one by one. He repeated their names and tried to keep them straight, though he was frankly lost after half a dozen. Finally Esther took him over to the buffet table, where food had been put out.
“This is Skaay,” she said, introducing a tiny old man who looked up from his plate. His eyes were milky, blind. “Of the Eagle clan.”
“Robert, if you prefer,” Skaay said, his voice strong and his grip stronger. He smiled. “The women of both clans have done a traditional Haida feast for you, Chief Inspector.” The blind man led Gamache down the long table, naming each dish. “This is k’aaw. It’s herring roe on kelp. This over here is pepper-smoked salmon, or if you prefer there’s wood-smoked salmon over there. Caught this morning by Reg. He spent the day smoking it. For you.”
They walked slowly the length of the buffet. Octopus balls, crab cakes, halibut. Potato salad; fresh bread, still warm. Juices and water. No alcohol.
“We have dances here. This is where most people have their wedding parties. And funerals. So many dinners. When the Eagle clan is hosting the Raven clan serves. And vice versa, of course. But tonight we’re all hosting. And you’re our honored guest.”
Gamache, who’d been to state dinners in grand palaces, banquets given for him, awards presentations, had rarely felt so honored.
He took a helping of everything and sat down. To his surprise, the young pilot joined him. Over dinner they all talked, but he noticed the Haida elders asked more questions than they answered. They were interested in his work, his life, his family. They asked about Quebec. They were informed and thoughtful. Kind, and guarded.
Over cake, fresh bumbleberries and Cool Whip, Gamache told them about the murder. The Hermit in the cabin buried deep in the forest. The elders, always attentive, grew even more still as he told them about the man, surrounded by treasure, but alone. A man whose life had been taken, his goods left behind. A man with no name, surrounded by history, but with none himself.
“Was he happy, do you think?” Esther asked. It was almost impossible to figure out if there was a leader of this group, by election or mutual consent. But Gamache guessed if there was one, it would be her.
He hesitated. He hadn’t actually asked himself that question.
Was the Hermit happy?
“I think he was content. He led a small, peaceful life. One that appeals to me.”
The young pilot turned to look at him. Up until that moment she’d been looking straight ahead.
“He was surrounded by beauty,” continued Gamache. “And he had company every now and then. Someone who’d bring him what he couldn’t provide for himself. But he was afraid.”
“Hard to be both happy and afraid,” said Esther. “But fear can lead to courage.”
“And courage can lead to peace,” said a young man in a suit.
It reminded Gamache of what the fisherman had written on the wall of the diner in Mutton Bay a few years earlier. He’d looked at Gamache across the room and smiled so fully it had taken the Chief Inspector’s breath away. Then the fisherman had scribbled something on the wall and left. Gamache had gone to the wall, and read:
Where there is love there is courage,
where there is courage there is peace,
where there is peace there is God.
And when you have God, you have everything.
Gamache spoke the words, and then there was silence in the hall. The Haida were good at silence. And so was Gamache.
“Is that a prayer?” Esther finally asked.
“A fisherman wrote it on a wall in a place called Mutton Bay, a long way off.”
“Perhaps not so far,” said Esther.
“A fisherman?” asked the man in the suit, with a smile. “Figures. They’re all crazy.”
An older man beside him, dressed in a thick sweater, gave him a swat and they laughed.
“We’re all fishermen,” said Esther, and Gamache had the feeling she was including him. She thought for a moment then asked, “What did your Hermit love?”
Gamache thought about that. “I don’t know.”
“Perhaps when you do, you’ll find his killer. How can we help?”
“There were a couple of references to Woo and Charlotte in the Hermit’s cabin. They led me to Emily Carr, and she led me here.”
“Well, you’re far from the first,” an elderly man said with a laugh. It wasn’t a smug or derisive laugh. “Her paintings have been bringing people to Haida Gwaii for years.”
It was hard to tell if that was considered a good thing.
“I think the Hermit was on the Queen Charlotte Islands, maybe fifteen or more years ago. We think he was Czech. He’d have spoken with an accent.”
Gamache brought out the photographs, taken at the morgue. He’d warned them what they’d see but he wasn’t worried. These were people who lived comfortably with life and death in a place where the line was blurred, and people, animals, and spirits walked together. Where blind men saw and everyone had the gift of flight.
Over strong tea they looked at the dead man. They looked long and hard. Even the young pilot gave the photographs her attention.
And as they looked at the photos, Gamache looked at them. To see a flicker of recognition. A twitch, a change in breathing. He became hyperaware of every one of them. But all he saw were people trying to help.
“We’ve disappointed you, I’m afraid,” said Esther as Gamache put the pictures back in his satchel. “Why didn’t you just e-mail them to us?”
“Well, I e-mailed them to Sergeant Minshall and he circulated them among the police, but I wanted to be here myself. And there’s something I couldn’t e-mail. Something I brought with me.”
He put the two balls of towel on the table and carefully unwrapped the first.
Not a spoon clinked against a mug, not a creamer was popped, peeled and opened, not a breath. It was as though something else had joined them then. As though silence had taken a seat.
He gently unwrapped the next one. And it sailed across the table to join its sibling.
“There’re others. Eight we think.”
If they heard him they gave no indication. Then one man, middle-aged and stocky, reached out. Stopping, he looked at Gamache.
“May I?”
“Please.”
He picked it up and in large, worn hands he held the sailing ship. He lifted it to his face so that he was staring into the eyes of the tiny men and women who were looking ahead with such pleasure, such joy.
“That’s Haawasti,” whispered the bush pilot. “Will Sommes.”
“That’s Will Sommes?” Gamache asked. He’d read about this man. He was one of Canada’s greatest living artists. His Haida carvings were bursting with life and snapped up by private collectors and museums worldwide. He’d assumed Sommes was a recluse, having grown so famous surely he’d be in hiding. But the Chief Inspector was beginning to appreciate that on Haida Gwaii legends came alive, walked among them, and sometimes sipped black tea and ate Cool Whip.
Sommes picked up the other piece and turned it round and round. “Red cedar.”
“From here,” confirmed Gamache.
Sommes looked under the sailing ship. “Is that a signature?”
“Perhaps you could tell me.”
“Just letters. But it must mean something.”
“It seems to be in code. We haven’t figured it out yet.”
“The dead man made these?” Sommes held up the carving.
“He did.”
Sommes looked down at what he held in his hand. “I can’t tell you who he was, but I can tell you this much. Your Hermit wasn’t just afraid, he was terrified.”