The Colosseum

AVOIDING THE QUEUE

Four and a half million visitors a year puts a strain on the facilities of almost any tourist site. There are lengthy queues to buy an entrance ticket to the Colosseum, in the peak summer season – and the queues in spring and autumn can also be off-putting. On one visit in late September, the queues were found to be snaking around the building, heralding a fifteen-minute wait. There are various tricks, however to avoid the worst of the waiting:

1. The traditional advice, for this and for other especially popular Italian museums and sites, is to turn up about thirty minutes before the monument opens. But the truth is that many other visitors will have had the same idea and long queues forming before the monument has even opened are even more daunting. A better option – even if it does not produce quite the same glow of virtue – is to wait until late in the day, when the majority of coach tours and large groups have departed, ideally just before the ticket office closes, which is an hour before the site itself shuts.

2. Tickets for the Colosseum now also include entrance to the Forum and the Palatine and can be used once in each of these three sites over the course of two days. A good tip, which I have tested a few times, is to purchase your ticket at the Palatine ticket office (about five minutes’ walk from the Colosseum along Via di San Gregorio). The queue is usually much lighter here, and buying a ticket at this office does not mean you have to visit the Palatine straightaway; you can just go back to the Colosseum, bypass the queue and follow the signs to the turnstiles for those with tickets. Needless to say, the Palatine itself, with the remains of the Roman imperial palace, is also worth a visit (despite Byron’s unfavourable comparison with the ruins of the Colosseum, p.4).

3. Planning in advance can also save time and frustration, especially if you are visiting in high season. It is now possible to book a ticket from a variety of travel and cultural websites. A good place to start is the official tourist website for Rome: http://www.turismoroma.it (accessible in English translation). This site provides a link to the website of the cultural heritage organisation, Pierreci, http://www.pierreci.it where a combined Colosseum/Palatine/Forum ticket could be bought in 2010 for €13.50. That was then €1.50 more than you would have paid at the ticket office; but as it allows you to print an e-ticket in advance and avoid queuing at all, it is probably money well spent. If you are planning to visit several sites it may be worth considering buying the new Roma pass (again, this can be bought online or from tourist information offices and many shops and kiosks) which in 2010 cost €25. It is valid for three days and includes free entry to two museums/sites of your choice as well as reduced ticket prices elsewhere and free public transport (for full details see the website http://www.romapass.it).

It is also worth checking in advance what special exhibitions and events will be taking place at the Colosseum. These are often excellent but can affect ticket prices. The beauty of the Colosseum at night, immortalised by Byron (p.4) is once again available to the general public. Over the past couple of years, it has been possible to visit on a Saturday night up until 11pm during the summer months, though as part of a guided tour only. These evenings have proved particularly popular so booking in advance (online or by phone) is a very good idea. The substructures or hypogeum and third floor level also opened in October 2010 for a limited period for guided tours only; it is also worth checking in advance of a visit if these will be open (either online or phone Pierreci +39 06 39967700).

A GOOD LOOK AT THE OUTSIDE

The key thing to remember when visiting the Colosseum is that more than half the original outer wall has disappeared. The best way to take this in (and the building is horribly confusing if you do not) is to walk right around the circumference of the monument before you step inside. Starting at the west end, coming from the Via dei Fori Imperiali, you will see very clearly where the outer wall comes to an abrupt stop, with a nineteenth-century brick buttress that copies the original arcading. Walking around to the south, a line of white stones in the pavement marks where the original outer wall once ran; what now appears to be the outer wall on this side of the monument is in fact the wall of the second internal corridor (hence the stairs leading to the upper floors that are visible inside, and apparently blocking off, several of these ‘outer’ arches). The original perimeter wall picks up again at the east end, with another much more brutal nineteenth-century buttress, and continues unbroken around the northern side of the monument. On this surviving section, the numbers above the entrance arches are still visible, most distinctly towards the west end (numbers 51 to 54) where the stonework has been cleaned.

The outside of the Colosseum also reveals clearly – and much more clearly than the inside – the enormous scale of the interventions and restorations since antiquity. You do not need to be a trained archaeologist to spot many of the sections of modern infill, often in obviously modern brickwork. Besides, several of those who left their mark in the fabric of the building also advertised the fact with prominent inscriptions on its exterior. Pope Benedict’s inscription (pp. 164–5), for example, can be seen above the main east door and just beneath it the head of Christ, the symbol of the Order of St Salvator, which once owned part of the monument. At the west entrance, Pope Pius IX placed a replica of Benedict’s inscription, while adding a record of his own restoration in 1852.

It is also well worth exploring a little more widely beyond the monument itself. Towards the east are the five remaining bollards which once acted (we guess) as some kind of boundary marker or crowd control; immediately around them the Roman pavement surface has been preserved. Further in this direction, across the main road, lie the remains of one of the gladiatorial training camps, the Ludus Magnus (p. 136). The distinctive outline of part of its practice arena can be seen from the Via S. Giovanni in Laterano (in an excavation visible from the left-hand side of the street as you walk away from the Colosseum); the rest of the complex is still buried under the nearby modern buildings.

At the west end, the most impressive monument has no direct connection with the Colosseum. It is the arch dedicated in AD 315 in honour of the emperor Constantine. Less striking, but more closely related to the story of the amphitheatre, are the foundations of two other monuments. Closest to the Via dei Fori Imperiali is the roughly square base on which the Colossus itself stood from the early second century AD. Between that and the arch of Constantine are the now scanty remains of what was once a famous landmark, put up in the late first century AD by the emperor Domitian – presumably partly to leave his own mark near the amphitheatre of his father and brother (Vespasian and Titus). This was a monumental fountain, known as the Meta Sudans. Its central feature was conical in shape, like the turning post used for races in the circus (meta); sudans means that it ‘sweated’ or ‘dripped’ (see illustration 16, p. 95).

THE VIEW FROM INSIDE

The plan of the Colosseum may be simple, but it is nevertheless very easy to lose your bearings once inside (especially as the methods used to channel the crowds mean that you emerge into the arena itself some distance around the circumference from the point at which you entered the outer corridors of the monument). The best advice is to keep your eye on where the main outer wall is preserved (that is obvious from most parts of the building) and to remember that that is the north!

Apart from special tours to the third level and hypogeum, visitors generally have access to two floors of the monument, the ground and first floors, and parts of both of these are regularly closed off to allow repair work. The first floor gives an excellent view of the whole structure (as well as offering wonderful vistas out over the surrounding area) and is the best place to start. Although this is less than half way up the original height of the monument, it is a steep climb up the stairs on a hot day. Most visitors prefer to use the lifts which have been neatly tucked in behind the nineteenth-century buttress at the east end. From the walkway around the edge of the arena at this level (which is just above the vault of the ‘third corridor’ on our cross-section, figure 3) you can look down into substructures beneath the level of the arena floor; and there is an excellent view of the reconstructed seating (which may help envisage the original appearance of the monument, even though it is in detail entirely wrong). Away from the arena’s edge, near the entrance to the lifts, is a small display of material found in the building – balustrades from where the stairways came out into the seating area, late-Roman inscriptions designating the occupants of particular sections of the elite seating and some vivid graffiti (illustration 17, p. 97) – plus some puzzling models of the machinery used to bring the animals up from the basements. Much of the space of the outer corridors on the north side is now usually given over to temporary exhibitions.

The ground floor is rather more confusing: parts of it (including sometimes even the section of wooden flooring built to replicate the original arena floor) are often closed to visitors; many of the vaults are used as deposits for quantities of stray masonry from the original structure. But there are also more details to look at here than on the first floor, especially near the north and south entrances. At the north, Mussolini’s cross (pp. 175–6) still stands at the arena’s edge and on the vault of one of the main passages leading into the building (immediately to the left of the central entranceway) is the best surviving piece of the stucco decoration that would once have adorned much of the structure. Moving towards the arena from the main south entrance (the modern day exit of the monument), which originally led to the imperial box, is the so-called ‘passageway of Commodus’ (p.134), visible on the right. Away from the arena itself, in the corridor between the south and west entrances, is the tantalising shape of a crucifix in the wall: nothing to do with Christians, but the setting for one of the fountains that serviced the building. In the original western entrance two inscriptions have been placed, celebrating one of the late-Roman repairs to the building.

AMENITIES

There are far fewer fountains and other services in the building now than there were in antiquity: no café and the queues for the (few) lavatories sometimes almost equal those at the ticket office. There are public toilets outside the east side of the building, but queues there can be off-putting too. (If buying your ticket from the nearby Palatine ticket office, you would do well to make use of the conveniences at that point). There is, however, an excellent book and souvenir shop on the first floor, and another smaller one on the ground. For refreshments, the modern ‘gladiators’ usually make for the stand-up coffee bar in the adjacent Metro station (it is a strangely picturesque sight to watch them mingling with the commuters, helmets on the counter). For anything more substantial, or for a seat, the restaurants and cafés nearest to the Colosseum are best avoided, over-priced and decidedly uninspiring in cuisine. Better fare is to be had as you walk down the Via S Giovanni in Laterano and the Via Santi Quattri Coronati to the east; or, a little further away to the west, up the Via della Madonna dei Monti off the Via dei Fori Imperiali, turning right at the Hotel Forum… whose famous roof terrace is reputed to be the setting for the conversation between Mrs Slade and Mrs Ansley in Edith Wharton’s ‘Roman Fever’ (p. 10).