For Martha, Luke, and Olivia,
who set and share the nightly table…
and for Calvin Trillin, who set the standard
A cook a pure artist
Who moves everyman
At a deeper level than
Mozart, for the subject of the verb
To-hunger is never a name:
Dear Adam and Eve had different bottoms,
But the neotene who marches
Upright and can subtract reveals a belly
Like the serpent’s with the same
Vulnerable look. Jew, Gentile or pigmy,
He must get his calories
Before he can consider her profile or
His own, attack you or play chess,
And take what there is however hard to get down:
Then surely those in whose creed
God is edible may call a fine
Omelette a Christian deed.
The sin of Gluttony
Is ranked among the Deadly
Seven, but in murder mysteries
One can be sure the gourmet
Didn’t do it: children, brave warriors out of a job,
Can weigh pounds more than they should
And one can dislike having to kiss them yet,
Compared with the thin-lipped, they
Are seldom detestable. Some waiter grieves
For the worst dead bore to be a good
Trencherman, and no wonder chefs mature into
Choleric types, doomed to observe
Beauty peck at a master-dish, their one reward
To behold the mutually hostile
Mouth and eyes of a sinner married
At the first bite by a smile.