The title contains a pun, since the chanter deals with the customs of the country in two senses of the word:
(1) the way things are done by most people in a given country, its usual practices;
(2) the department of the government service that collects import duties, i.e. taxes paid to the government on imported goods (Sp. aduana).
The pronoun she is sometimes used with the names of countries and towns.
jacaranda tree – a South American tree with hard brown wood (called rose-wood from its fragrance and widely used in cabinet-making)
palo borracho (Sp.) - borracho tree, another species of South American trees
a suicidal streak – an inclination to suicide
Land-Rover – make of car; a car able to move across the fields or country, not following roads, a cross-country car
feminine pulchritude – female beauty; using long bookish words of Latin and Greek origin, the author makes this phrase sound ironically pompous
the Argentine (or the Argentines) – another name for Argentina, now slightly archaic and therefore sounding more dignified
a cross between the Parthenon and the Reichstag – resembling at once the Parthenon, a world-famous, temple of Athena (on the Acropolis at Athens), and the building of the Reichstag (i.e. the former German legislative assembly) in Berlin
in the bowels – here within, in the innermost part
The verb weave (Past Ind. wove) is here used figuratively, implying that the movement of the car resembled a shuttle carrying the weft-thread across between threads of warp, in the process of weaving.
to the best of my knowledge – as far as I know
warming to my work – here getting more and more angry and excited
de hand – Josefina's pronunciation of the hand (she asked the author to thrust his arm out of the window, giving a warning that she was going to turn). Josefina's knowledge of English is far from, perfect; the author occasionally reproduces some peculiarities of her pronunciation and her chaotic order of words. These deviations from the rules of grammar in the speech of non-English characters (Dicky de Sola, Luna, Coco and others) are easy to recognize and need not be specially commented upon.
screeched to a shuddering halt – suddenly stopped or halted with a screech
animal! (Sp.) - you beast! (Note that in the Spanish language exclamation and interrogation marks always appear not only at the end, but also at the beginning of a sentence or phrase, in inverted form.)
to meet our Maker (i.e. God) – a euphemistic paraphrase for to die
amidships – in the middle (of the ship), a naval term hero used figuratively
blurry – Josefina's pronunciation of bloody (a vulgar equivalent of damned); the words shock the author as being highly unsuitable for female conversation
Anglo-Saxon expletives – here strong language (oaths in English are mostly of Anglo-Saxon origin)
his… eau-de-cologne-encrusted brow – a solemn allusion to Seiior Garcia's habit of lavishly using eau-de-cologne
ante – Dante Alighieri (1265-1321), the author of the great Italian poem Divine Comedy, its first part being Inferno (Hell)
the numbing effect – here the paralyzing effect
tapir – a hoofed hog-like mammal of tropical America and the Malayan peninsula; tapirs have flexible snouts; feed on plants
gone wrong – here a bit disproportionate, somewhat unusual in appearance as far as elephants go
The author makes ironical use of a military cliché.
Jacquie – the author's wife (short for Jacqueline)
Claudius ['klo:djos] – one of the Roman emperors (41-54 A. D.)
en route [a:n 'ru:t] (Fr.) - on the way
Great Dane – a large short-haired dog of a breed of massive size and great strength
French window – a glazed folding door that serves as a door and a window, opening on to a garden or balcony
dinosaur ['dainaso:] – an extinct gigantic reptile
what with the Aduana and this bloody tapir… – this emphatic construction is used when enumerating the various causes of one's distress, embarrassment and the like
the Queen Mary - one of the biggest Atlantic liners
to put one's mind to something – to direct one's thoughts towards it, to set one's mind on doing something
simpatico (Sp.) - nice, pleasant
fur seal – a warm-blooded, fish-eating animal, found chiefly in cold regions; fur seal is hunted for its valuable fur.
elephant seal – a species of seal, so called on account of the shape of the male's nose which resembles an elephant's trunk, and also on account of its elephantine size (the male measures as much as 5.5 m in length and weighs up to 3.5 tons); now almost entirely destroyed.
to warm to somebody – to begin liking somebody hotter by and by
to win somebody over – to make somebody take a liking to you, feel friendly towards you
to decide somebody – to cause somebody to come to a decision
Darwin, Charles Robert (1809-1882) – the great English naturalist, founder of the theory of evolution. In 1831-36 he made a voyage round the world on board the Beagle. The results of his observations of animals and plants, made during the voyage, were described in the naturalist's journal, The Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle.
H.M.S. – His (Her) Majesty's Ship, a ship of the British navy
covey – here a group, a party (the word is generally used to designate a family of partridges)
deer-stalker hat (or cap) – a cloth cap with a peak before and behind and two ear-flaps; it is often called a deer-stalker for short
prenatal posture – the position of an unborn baby in the mother's womb
Tres Arroyos ['tres e'roies] (Sp.) - Three Streams
the Pampa (or Pampas) – the extensive treeless plains of South America
eucalyptus tree – a tree of the myrtle family; most of the trees of this genus are important timber trees, and some secrete resinous gums (e. g. the Australian gum-tree)
like leprous limbs – like the arms and legs of people affected with leprosy, a chronic infectious disease characterized by a thickening and ulceration of the skin
estancia (Sp.) - farm, estate
carunculated – covered with caruncles, small hard outgrowths
electric-blue – a steely blue color
oven-bird [Avnba:d] – the popular name of various South American birds which build dome-shaped oven-like nests
blank-faced – here inexpressive, lacking individuality
tattoo [ta'tu:] – a continuous tapping or knocking
¡Hola! (Sp.) - Hullo!
sanitary arrangements – a polite way of speaking about a lavatory
stone – measure of weight used in Great Britain (6.34 kg); the plural form is unchanged
Chelsea – a district of London on the north bank of the Thames, with many gardens, including the London Botanic Garden
buenas noches (Sp.) - good evening
¿Hablo con la patrona? (Sp.) - Am I speaking to the hostess?
¿Si, si, señor… que quiores? (Sp.) - Yes, sir, what is it you need?
he puffed and undulated her way down to the kitchen – puffing and undulating, she made her way to the kitchen (note this construction, often resorted to by the author when describing different sorts of movement)
monochromatic Martian landscape – the author evidently has in mind standard descriptions of the planet Mars encountered in science-fiction books
country – here ground
nodded off – fell suddenly asleep
Scotch = Scotch whisky
dust-devil – a mass of dust whirling rapidly round and round in cylindrical or funnel shape
I ever dream = that I ever dreamed of (i.e. imagined). In the next remark the same verb is used in a different meaning: 'to see in sleep'.
introduction – here a letter of introduction, one that introduces a person to friends or acquaintances of the writer
in a… reptilian manner – like a serpent or a lizard
to make out with something (colloq.) - to get along, be satisfied with something
crow's feet – wrinkles at the outer corner of the eye
to sum up somebody – to form a final opinion or judgment of somebod
¿Si, si, como no? (Sp.) - Yes, yes, why not?
forlorn – here sad
lilting (said of a melody) – swinging or flowing rhythmically
joie de vivre ['3wa de 'vi;vre] (Fr.) – joy of life
cacophonous – unmelodious
T. B. ['ti:'bi:] – short for tuberculosis
in a body – all together, as one man
moth-eaten-looking – old and decrepit, looking like an old rag eaten by clothes-moth
When speaking of airplanes, the English sometimes use the pronoun she, as in the case of ships.
wind-sock – a canvas cylinder or cone flying from a masthead to show the direction of wind
came into their own – here got down to business
the plane bumped and shuddered to a halt – bumping and shuddering, the plane came to a halt (cf. note to p. 7)
their equine charges – the ponies in their charge, the ponies they had been holding back (Durrell is fond of Latin adjectives of this type as opposed to the simple-sounding English nouns: compare horse and equine, cat and feline, pig and porcine)
banshee – according to Irish and Scotch beliefs, a spirit whose wail gives warning of death in a house
Trafalgar Square lions – the four bronze figures of lions, which lie with their heads thrown back, and fore paws stretched out, decorating the corners of the quadrangular base of the Nelson column in Trafalgar Square, London
magenta – a brilliant crimson color
scrunched our way – made our way noisily grinding the gravel under the wheels of the car (cf. note to p. 20)
to switchback – to follow a zigzag route in a mountainous region
peon ['pi:on] – in Mexico and Spanish South America, a laborer, especially one working to pay off a debt
bombachas (Sp,) - wide trousers
asado (Sp.) - a sheep roasted whole
manana (Sp.) - tomorrow
headwaiter – chief waiter at a restaurant, generally wearing a black suit and a snow-white shirt-front; the author compares penguins to head waiters because of their coloring, and also because of their peculiar shuffling gait
biscuit-colored – of the characteristic light-brown colour of biscuit, i.e. porcelain after the first firing and before being glazed or painted
guanaco [gwar'neikou] -a wild llama ['la:ma] of the Andes with reddish-brown wool
finger – here the breadth of a finger (about an inch), a measure generally used when pouring drinks
hora los pinguinos (Sp.) - presently (you shall see) the penguins
to pock-mark – to make numerous marks or scars like those left by smallpox; to dot
pigmy (or pygmy) – any person, animal or plant abnormally undersized, a dwarf
fallen arches – flat feet, feet not normally arched, with the arch weakened; a professional disease with waiters
debutante I'debjuta:nt] – a girl making her first appearance in society, especially (in England) a girl presented to the king and queen at court
outsize – too big for one
wattle – a fold of loose flesh hanging from the neck of some birds, i.e. turkeys
nerve – self-control, courage
jig-saw puzzle – a picture pasted on board and cut in irregular pieces with a jig-saw; one has to fit the pieces together so as to make the picture (common children's game)
to negotiate – here to get over, to surmount (often said about fences and other obstacles)
tummy – a nursery and colloquial word for stomach, belly
to get the worst of the climb over – to have done with the most difficult part of the climb
to throw one off balance – to make one lose one's balance
all-in wrestling match – a general struggle
to run the gauntlet – as a punishment, to run between two lines of men who strike the victim as he passes
to regurgitate – to bring (partly-digested food) from the stomach back to the mouth; to get one to do something – to make one do it
in no uncertain fashion – without hesitation or doubt, in a determined, resolute manner
from stem to stern – from the front to the back part of a ship, throughout the whole length of the ship; here throughout the whole length of the bird's body (another instance of a naval term used ironically; cf. amidships on p. 8)
minute [mai'nju:t] – very small
pandemonium ['paendi'mounjem] – a scene of great disorder and confusion (as in a place inhabited by all the demons)
digestive reverie ['reveri] – a quiet, thoughtful state during the process of digestion
Vacanttum – probably Vacant-tum (my), empty belly (the word looks amusingly like a biological term of Latin origin)
the product of an unhappy home-life – a cliché of modern sociological writings, here used ironically
melee ['melei] (Fr.) - a confused fight
air-pocket – a seeming vacuum in the air causing the aircraft to drop some distance; it produces a very unpleasant sensation of sinking stomach
nifty (U.S. slang) - here quick, nimble
to qualify for – to give a right to
a diaphanous garment – a transparent one, one through which the contours of the body are clearly seen
mammary development (cf. below chest expansion) - ironical paraphrases for size of the bust
a companion piece – the second of a pair, a thing that matches or complements another (here the author means a picture whose subject would match that of the one he discusses)
to be out to do something (colloq.) - to seek, to aim at doing something, taking great pains with it
much of a muchness (colloq.) - very nearly the same
mate (Sp.) – an aromatic beverage prepared in South America from the leaves of the Paraguay tea plant
via – by way of, through, as in "from Exeter to York via London"; here used jocularly
breath-taking – so striking as to take one's breath away, make one breathless with astonishment and admiration
boleadoras (Sp.) - a form of weapon used by the Paraguay Indians, the Patagonians, and others in South America. It consists of a rope or thong with balls of stone or metal attached to it. When used, it is swung round the head by one end and then hurled at an animal so as to entangle its limbs.
passing – here disappearance
Margate – the favorite seaside resort of London holiday-makers
left-overs (Amer.) - remains
esto, una (Sp.) - here's one
to pull somebody's leg – to make fun of somebody
to get one's own back on somebody – to take one's revenge
armadillo [ama'dilou] – a burrowing animal of South America, with a body encased in bony armour, and a habit of rolling itself up into a ball when in danger
castanetted their beaks – made a sound like a pair of castanets with their beaks
thumb-smudges of cloud – the author compares the clouds visible here and there in the sky with smudges of paint left on a canvas by a careless painter's thumb
to shrug something off – to dismiss it with a shrug of the shoulders
back-breaking potholes – holes in a road fit to break one's back when driving over them
had played me false – had failed me, had deceived me
what I took to be the male of the herd – the animal I took for the male guanaco (a guanaco herd consists of a male, several females and some baby guanacos)
a pair of… lorgnettes (Fr.) - a pair of eye-glasses usually held by a long handle; when using them, a person generally has to tilt back his or her head
terrier – a breed of dog, usually of small size
anthropomorphic – here partly human, partly animal; the word is generally used when describing human-like traits or actions of animals, not vice versa, as in this case
biscuit brown – see note to p. 32
rather a lark (colloq.) - very funny
rocker – a curved piece of wood on which a rocking-horse (children's toy) is mounted
discretion is the better part of valour – a saying which means that it is unwise to take unnecessary risks
bichos (Sp.) - animal
aternity ward – a ward in a hospital where women are taken Care of during and after childbirth
elefanteria (Sp.) - a place favoured by elephant seals
I shivered my way into a half-sleep – shivering, I tried to sleep, but succeeded in falling only into a half-sleep
my cocoon of semi-warmth – my covering which protected me against the cold but did not give real warmth
a nerve- and spine-shattering experience – an experience that racked your nerves and could easily break your back (note the literal and figurative meanings of shatter, which come into play simultaneously)
creaming waves – waves with white froth resembling whipped cream
moving plate = moving picture: the word plate is here used in the sense of 'a thin sheet of metal upon which pictures are engraved, and from which impressions are taken', 'an impression printed from such a plate and used as an illustration in a book'
the fat was scalloped into folds – the author means that the fur seals' necks were adorned with scallops of fat, i.e. with a series of pleats or folds resembling the edge of a scallop-shell, sometimes used as ornament on the hem of a dress
beery face – a puffy face, betraying the effects of beer-drinking
Humpty Dumpty – the hero of a nursery rhyme, a person with a short round figure, shaped like an egg. Lewis Carroll chose him for one of the characters of his book Through the Looking-glass (sequel to Alice in Wonderland). The world-famous illustrations for Carroll's books were made by John Tenniel (1820- 1914). In his picture of Humpty Dumpty seated on top of a wall, the artist brought out, in a most expressive manner, the conceit and arrogance with which Carroll endowed this personage.
frogman – an underwater swimmer equipped with long rubber shoes like a frog's hind feet
Balinese dancers (of the Bali Island, one of the islands lying east of Java) are famous for the grace and elegance of their performance
rumba (Sp.) - a Cuban Negro dance; a ballroom dance imitative of this folk dance
russet – reddish-brown
was a constant state of nerves (colloq.) - was in a permanent state of anxiety
Presbyterian – a member of the Presbyterian church. Presbyterians formed the right wine of the Puritans, the English variety of Calvinists who preached love of virtue, pure living, and self-restraint
was a wife short – missed one of his wives
dropsical-looking – looking swollen as if they had dropsy, a disease in which watery fluids collect in the tissues of the body
to feint – in box, to sham an attack to deceive the opponent by diverting his attention
one's elders and betters – persons deserving respect because of their age, experience and social standing
star-gazing – being in an absent-minded and dreamy state, like a person studying the stars (from the noun star-gazer 'one studying the stars to foretell the future')
balloon animals – toy animals made of rubber balloons filled with air
crèche (Fr.) - a public nursery where children are looked after while their mothers are at work
to dump (colloq.) - to deposit without ceremony, to let fall in a mass or a heap (usually applied to rubbish or coal)
The author means that he had plenty of character and determination, which amply compensated his small size
to lollop off – to walk off in a clumsy manner
Note the author's tendency to replace one of the words in a stock phrase, thus producing a humorous effect (cf. "as fast as his legs would carry him")
cummerbund (Anglo-Indian) - a waist sash
rumbaed towards it – moved towards it as if dancing the rumba
siesta [si'esta] (Sp.) - a short sleep taken at midday or in the afternoon, especially in hot countries
ploughed his way through them – forced his way, moving with difficulty among them, like a plough turning up earth
anatomy – the author's usual ironical synonym for body
life-giving nourishment – a humourous paraphrase for milk matching the high-flown verb to imbibe (synonym for drink)
a free drink – a drink for nothing, at someone else's expense
to negotiate – see note to p. 35; here this verb acquires an ironical ring, since Oswald has to overcome a living obstacle
in one's depth – in water not too deep to touch bottom (ant. out of one's depth)
pekinese (or pekingese) ['pi:ki'ni:z] – a small Chinese dog with short legs and a pug nose
none of them seemed any the worse – evidently none of them suffered from the ill effects of their swimming lesson
would hump themselves down – would move down, proceeding with the help of humping their backs (cf. the description of the elephant seals manner of movement on p. 78)
Elizabethan ruff – a kind of collar worn in the 16th century, during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. It was made of white material, stiffly starched and standing up in folds touching each other
maypole – a high pole decorated with ribbons, flowers, etc., set up in the open for dancing round on May day, the first of May, celebrated in England as a spring festival
belly-splitting charge – the leap taken by the old bull in charging the young one, which ended in his hurting his belly (note the author's device of alluding ironically to current idiomatic expressions, here to side-splitting laughter or ear-splitting noise)
bulbous – shaped like a bulb, an enlarged, spherical termination of stem in certain plants, such as the onion, tulip or lily
cul-de-sac ['kulde'saek] (Fr.) – a passage or street with an opening at one end only, from which there is no escape
tinamu (or tinamou) [ti'na:mu:] – a South American bird resembling a quail (a game bird of America, Europe, Asia and Africa, also called partridge)
Darwin's rhea – a South American three-toed ostrich
school crocodile – a long line of schoolchildren walking by twos
to pace, v. t. – to set the pace for another rider or runner in a race
bonnet – the hood protecting the engine of a motor-car
windfall – an unexpected piece of good fortune (literally, something blown down by the wind, especially fruit)
sea-front (or water-front) – a street or a part of town facing the sea; Bournemouth – a popular English seaside resort
Tierra del Fuego (Sp.) - "Land of Fire", a group of islands separated from the south end of South America by the Strait of Magellan. Its farthest point is Cape Horn.
The verb to fret is used here in its special, architectural meaning: 'to decorate with pattern carved in relief.' The author means that the stones were irregular in shape, but irregular artistically.
with a jaundiced eye – here suspiciously, with some irritation (from the noun jaundice, a disease accompanied by yellowness of the skin and of the whites of the eyes; figuratively, a stale of mind in which one is spiteful, irritable or suspicious)
to make the best of a disaster – to try and got along as best one can, in spite of a disastrous state of things.
trippers (from trip 'a short journey') – people on an excursion; the word is often used contemptuously (e. g. "at week-ends the beach is crowded with noisy trippers")
abandon, n. - careless freedom
Turkish bath – here a building where Turkish baths are taken. A Turkish bath is a hot air or steam bath followed by soaping, washing, rubbing, kneading, massaging, etc. Added to the dropsy and the quiet concentration of chess players, the atmosphere of a Turkish bath helps to convey the impression of complete inactivity and sleepiness.
the Leaning Tower of Pisa ['pi:ze] – one of the famous sights in Italy: the white marble bell-tower, 178 feet in height, which leans 14 feet off the perpendicular.
the Acropolis – the citadel of Athens, Greece, situated on a hill about 250 feet high and richly adorned with architecture and sculpture (especially in the 5th century B.C.)
barrage balloon – one of a series of balloons used to form a barrier against enemy planes.
stop-watch – a watch with a hand that can be stopped or started by pressing a knob on the rim; a stop-watch is used for timing a race, etc.
rather him than me – I wouldn't do it; let him, if he likes
there was quite a colour variation – there was a considerable variation in color (note the current colloquial construction with quite a)
algae (sing. alga) – the Latin name of a large group of lowly organized plants, including the seaweeds and similar weeds found in stagnant or slow-flowing fresh water
to take to the air – to go suddenly up into the air
to show oneself to advantage – to allow to see one at one's best, in such a way as to bring out one's strong points
he animation of a group of opium smokers – no animation at all (opium smoking has the effect of reducing the smokers to a state of insensibility); cf. the Turkish bath simile on p, 75
concertina - a musical instrument with hollows, resembling a small accordion
morale – the mental state or condition of a body of men, especially of an army; the word is generally used in the meaning of 'high morale', i.e. courageous, determined conduct despite danger and privations
gargantuan – enormous, gigantic (from the name of Gargantua, a giant in Rabelais’ book Gargantua and Pantagruel)
the final straw – the last straw, the final circumstance that makes the situation unbearable (the allusion is to the proverb ("It is the last straw that breaks the camel's back")
maggots – the larvae of a cheese-fly (or cheese-mite), a small mite infesting cheese
twilit, a. - dimly illuminated, as by twilight
to rev up – to cause the engine to run quickly when first starting (the word was first used as a colloquial abbreviation of revolve)
Jujuy [d3u:'d3ai] – the northernmost province of Argentina, with a capital of the same name
Sophie – the author's secretary
to minister unto (or to) – to give aid or service; to look after
to make tracks for a certain place (colloq.) - to go directly towards it
precious (colloq.) - very (cf. pretty in a similar use)
lassoo ['laesu:] – variant of lasso, a long noosed rope of un-tanned hide for catching cattle, etc.
pernicious anaemia – lack of blood, unhealthy paleness. This introduction of a medical term into an elaborate paraphrase describing the faint electric light is highly typical of Durrell’s verbal humour: he likes to spice his descriptions with scientific-sounding words.
buenas noches (Sp.) - good evening
she twitched and mumbled her way into sleep – she twitched and mumbled until she fell asleep; she fell asleep twitching and mumbling
all twenty stone of her – the whole of her enormous person (the author estimates the woman's weight at about 20 stone, or 127 kg: see also note to p. 19)
Here we find an interplay of the two meanings of the verb crown: the hat actually crowned the woman's head, and the expression to crown this means 'to give a finishing touch to the whole'.
this breath-taking horticultural achievement – a reference to the woman's hat decorated with an abundance of artificial fruits and flowers
at a saucy angle – at an angle that gave her a smart, stylish and slightly impertinent look
a lavaflow of chins – a great number of chins resembling a stream of lava flowing from a volcan
buenos dias (Sp.) - good day, good morning
to hoick out – to lift or hoist, especially rapidly or with a jerk
to let her sex down – to fail in upholding the glory of her sex
to qualify – here to modify a statement, to make it less absolute (the word is generally used when speaking about a severe or unpleasant remark)
short of jumping out of the window – except jumping out of the window
terrific (colloq.) - most wonderful, thrilling
magnum ['maegnam] – a bottle containing two quarts of wine (2.25 liters)
tarmac – here a part of airfield covered with tarmac (short for tar-macadam, a layer of broken stone mixed with tar, used as road-surface)
old world – old-fashioned
hydrangea – a bush with large clusters of white, blue and pink flowers
praying mantis – an insect of a kind that holds its forelegs in a position suggesting hands folded in prayer
a coffee = a cup of coffee
medialunas (Sp.) - small cakes of half-moon shape
mudguard – a metal cover for the wheel of a motor-car, to stop mud as it flies up
media hora (Sp.) – literally, the middle hour, i.e. a break for rest in the middle of the day
molar – a molar tooth, a double tooth with a wide surface
Herculean task – a task requiring the strength of Hercules, like one of the Twelve Tasks (or Twelve Labors) of the famous hero of Greek mythology
on the last leg – in the final stage
by and large – on the whole
Durrell compares the country covered with cacti (pi. of cactus) to a typical surrealist landscape (e. g. one by Salvador Dali, Spanish painter, leader of surrealist school), where you can see all sorts of strange, distorted plants, gigantic cacti among them.
largesse (archaic) – a generous gift bestowed by a great person
foyer ['foiei] – here hall
protégée (Fr.) – a woman who is under the care of another person
en route (Fr.) – on the way; here during the trip
to look somebody up (colloq.) – to pay an informal visit to somebody, to call on somebody
The author means that the woman, her son and the rest of the family were all so stout that, standing side by side, they looked like the front of a huge building made of fat.
that lay cupped in a half-moon of mountains – that lay surrounded by a semi-circular range of mountains, as if in a cup
viridescence – greenishness, the adjective viridescent being a bookish synonym for green
parakeet ['paereki: t] – a long-tailed bird of the parrot family, of small size and slender form
sloe-coloured – the color of the sloe, small, blue-black, plumlike fruit of blackthorn
bloom – the grayish powdery coating on various fruits, as the plum, grape, etc. and on some leaves; this word, applied as it is to sloe-colored human eyes, is highly appropriate here
nave – the part of a church from the inner door to the choir; it rises higher than the aisles flanking it and is often separated from them by an arcade
riot – here abundance, profusion, great quantity
gin-and-tonic – the usual mixture of gin (a strong alcoholic drink made from grain) with some tonic, i.e. stimulating beverage (e. g. Coca-Cola)
the usual run – the usual collection
¡Que lindo… que bicho mas lindo! (Sp.) – How beautiful… what a beautiful animal!
humming-birds – a group of very small, brightly colored birds with a long, slender bill and narrow wings that vibrate rapidly and make a humming sound in flight
station-wagon – a motor-car with folding or removable rear seats and a back end that opens for easy loading of the luggage, etc.
exuding good-will and personality – trying his best to look friendly but stern (the noun personality here is used in a combined meaning of 'personal charm' and 'strength of character')
a red-fronted Tucuman Amazon – a red-breasted parrot of central and South America
acquisitive – greedy, betraying the wish to acquire the parrot
to play one's trump card – to make use of one's best weapon (or argument) for gaining one's end
¿Como te va, Blanco? (Sp.) – How are you, Blanco?
Madre de Dios (Sp.) – Mother of God, the Virgin Mary
hijo de puta (Sp.) – son of a whore
¿Como te va, como te va, que tal? (Sp.) – How are you, how are you, how are you getting on?
estupido, muy estupido (Sp.) – stupid, very stupid
to run to earth – to hunt down, to find by search
guan [gwa:.n] (Sp.) – a large game-bird of Central and South America
onomatopoeic – imitative in sound (in linguistics the term is used to indicate a word formed in approximate imitation of some sound, e. g. tinkle, buzz, etc.)
to go – here to assume
Lorito – the common Spanish name for a parrot, the same as Polly in English
gringo (Sp.) – a foreigner, especially an Englishman or an American: a term current in South America
coral snake – a small, poisonous snake with coral-red yellow and black bands around its body, found in the south-eastern United States and in subtropical America
Old School tie – a necktie with a special pattern worn by former pupils of some particular English public school. The habit of wearing this kind of tie is to the author an indication of an excessive respect for one's social position, a sort of snobbery which he finds (together with the tie itself) revolting: see also p. 165.
a dewy-eyed expression – a very innocent and gentle one (dewy is a poetical word for eyes wet with tears)
Geoffroy's cat – a variety of wild cat discovered by Estienne-Louis Geoffroy (1725–1810), a famous French zoologist
seraphic – angelic
to leave somebody to his own devices – to allow him to do as he likes
tyro ['taierou] – a beginner, an inexperienced person
gato (Sp.) – a cat
chico gato montes (Sp.) – a small mountain cat
conundrum – puzzling question or problem; a mystery
with fourteen Martians in tow – followed by fourteen imaginary inhabitants of the planet Mars
loco (Sp.) – mad, crazy
tabby – the common type of domestic cat, grey with dark stripes (the name is usually applied to a female cat)
takes the edge off his potential viciousness – makes him less vicious. Literally, the expression means 'to make blunt': e. g. to take the edge off a knife; but it is also widely used figuratively, meaning 'to make less sharp or keen: e. g. to take the edge off an argument.
Lifemanship – the art of living, of coexistence (a word coined by analogy with penmanship 'the art of, or skill in, writing')
outboard engine (or motor) – a small internal-combustion engine with a propeller, fastened to the stern of a small boat and producing a loud noise
debauched (from debauch, v.) – dissipated, given to intemperance (as excessive eating or drinking)
by virtue of your grasshopper-like activities – owing to the way you keep rushing from one place to another (again Durrell chooses an elaborate, scientific-sounding mode of expression, with by virtue of and activities)
frond – the usual name for a palm leaf (or that of a fern)
you could do worse than go and investigate – you might just as well go and investigate
the time off – here a leave of absence
to get into one's stride – literally, to begin walking with long and measured steps; figuratively, to be carried away in some process (e. g. of talking)
semi-inebriated – half-drunk, half-intoxicated (a bookish word)
to sport – here to wear or exhibit, especially in great quantities
Durrell means that the wagon-driver's moustache was allowed to grow without any hindrance, as plants are in a nature reserve.
blancmange (Pr.) – a sweet jelly-like dessert made of a starchy substance and milk, sugar and almond
mucha agua (Sp.) – much water
in next to no time – very quickly, almost instantly
to play a fish – to let a fish tire itself out while hooked by tugging at the line
que pasa? (Sp.) – what has happened?
nafta no hay (Sp.) – there's no fuel
our nether regions – the lower part of our bodies (nether – jocular for lower, under, as in nether garments)
in his shirt-tails – without trousers, in his shirt only (this humorous expression is a cross between the two idiomatic phrases:
in one's shirt-sleeves 'without a coat' and in one's tails 'in full dress, in a dress-coat')
to roar into life – to come to life with a roar (an engine roars when being started up)
water hazard – here an obstacle in the form of a river (the term comes from golf, where the word hazard means 'any obstruction in playing a stroke, including bunkers, traps, ponds, roadways, etc')
apron – here a shield made of some hard material and placed below a dam or across a river-bed to protect it from damage by water
purchase – here a mechanical advantage, a fast hold
to nose – here to push or move with the nose or front forward
to stall – of an engine, to stop working (from overload, etc.)
Fairy Godmother – a good fairy from fairy tales, who appears quite unexpectedly at the very moment she is badly wanted and helps her god-child out of trouble (e. g. in the tale of Cinderella). Being a fairy she can appear in different disguise, hence the authors description ("heavily disguised…").
took in our predicament in a glance – understood at once our awkward situation (in a glance = at a glance)
An ironical reference to the Duke of Wellington's (1769–1852) military preparations before the battle of Waterloo (1815), where his army defeated Napoleon
to quarter – here to pass over an area of ground in every direction in search of game (the word is usually applied to hunting-dogs)
bibulous – addicted to alcoholic liquor, to drinking; in this roundabout way the author describes invitations to differ-ent drinking-parties
jardin zoologico (Sp.) – a zoological garden, a zoo
the well of the house – a shaft in a building or between buildings, open to the sky for light and air; airshaft
yellow-naped macaw [me'ko: ] – a large, bright-colored, harsh-voiced parrot of Central and South America
Brazilian rabbit – a burrowing rodent of the hare family, smaller than most hares and having soft fur, long ears, and a bobbed tail (the rodents are characterized by constantly growing incisors, or cutting teeth, adapted for gnawing or nibbling; on this group of mammals see also p. 119)
agouti – a rodent of the guinea-pig family, the size of a rabbit; orange-rumped – having an orange-colored rump, i.e. posterior (including the buttocks)
nervous breakdown – a state of extreme depression
patio ['paetiou] (Sp.) – a courtyard or inner area open to the sky, common in Spanish and South-American architecture
accoutrement – personal outfit or equipment; when used in the plural, the word generally means military outfit
to relieve – here to make less monotonous, to brighten
canary-yellow – a light yellow color, like that of a canary bird, a small yellow song bird, native to the Canary Islands, Madeira and Azores
to take kindly to something – to get easily accustomed to something
capybara – the largest of now existing rodents, a tailless, partially web-footed animal that lives in and around lakes and streams in South America
unlikely – here not likely to be met with in this family
The author has in mind the well-known reconstruction of an ancient horse skeleton. The ancient horse had five toes; four of them were in time reduced and disappeared.
a hump-behind – a behind with a hump on it (a word formed by analogy with hump-back)
ague – here fit of shivering
nightcap (colloq.) – an alcoholic drink taken just before going to bed
at the crack of dawn – at break of day, very early in the morning
to fan out – to spread out in several directions (in fan-shape), a word usually applied to the movement of troops after a breakthrough
seriema – a crested Brazilian and Argentinean
coatimundi [,kouti'mundi] (or coati) – a small, flesh-eating mammal of Central and South America, resembling a raccoon (see the next note), but with a long flexible snout
raccoon – a small, tree-climbing, flesh-eating mammal of North America, active largely at night and characterized by long, yellow-black fur, black masklike markings around the eyes, and a long, black-ringed tail
M.I.5 – in England, the section of Military Intelligence which deals with matters of State security
ocelot ['ousilot] – a large wild cat of North and South America, with yellow or gray hide marked with black spots
to date – up to that time
council rubbish dump – the place in a city where rubbish is deposited (the word council here means 'local administrative body of a city, town or district')
flotsam and jetsam – worthless things, rubbish, trash (originally, flotsam was a term of naval law, meaning wreckage found floating on the sea, while jetsam meant goods thrown overboard to lighten a ship in distress)
the point of no return – a poetical paraphrase for death
character rendering – here personal remarks, personalities
fifty-fifty – equal, even
marquee [ma:'ki: ] – a big tent with open sides, especially one used for outdoor entertainments
professional – here a professional actor, one belonging to the theatrical profession, often called colloquially the profession (especially among actors)
puma – a long-tailed, slender, tawny-brown animal of the cat family, found in North and South America (also called mountain lion)
that bad (colloq.) – in such a bad state
trestle-table – a table made up of movable planks supported by a pair of trestles, special wooden frames consisting each of a horizontal beam with diverging legs
heel-taps – here the rhythmic sound made by the heels of the dancers
they had sung themselves from the heavens back to earth – they had passed the peak of their singing enthusiasm, which sounded like heaven to their listeners, and began to relax, as if coming hack to earth
vampire – in folklore and popular superstition, an evil spirit which enters a corpse that leaves its grave at night to suck the blood of sleeping persons; hence vampire bats – several species of tropical American bats, which live on the blood of animals
Luna's godfather – i.e. Luna himself, the man after whom the puma was named, as children are often named after their godparents
charmed – seemingly protected from harm as though by magic
collared peccary – a pig-like mammal of tropical America, about three feet long, greyish, with a white collar and sharp tusks
to have a soft spot for somebody – to have a weakness for somebody, to be unreasonably fond of somebody
an Eton collar – a broad, white linen collar, worn with a short black coat of a pupil of Eton college (an old public school for boys from privileged classes at Eton, near London)
retrousse [re'tru: sei] (Fr.) – turned up at the tip
I allowed her the run of the place – she was allowed to run free all about the place
ambrosial – delicious, fragrant like ambrosia (the food of the Gods and immortals in Greek and Roman mythology)
out of this world– a current expression meaning 'heavenly', i. e. 'not belonging to the ordinary world'
gourmet – a person who is expert in the choice of food and wine
to make sure of something – to act in such a way as to be certain of something (as here, to do everything to prevent the puma getting out of the cage)
Pegasus – in Greek mythology, a winged horse which sprang from the body of Medusa at her death. With a blow of his hoof he caused Hippocrene, the fountain of the Muses, to spring from Mount Helicon; he became therefore the symbol of poetic inspiration. Durrell thinks of Pegasus because of the queer shape of the horses' saddles.
By using the word-combination bony steeds, Durrell creates a comic effect. The adjective bony looks and sounds much like the old poetic word bonny (or bonnie) meaning 'beautiful, handsome' and well-known from Scotch popular ballads, where it often went together with the poetic steed for horse.
to press-gang – to force into service, from press-gang, n. – a group of men who round up other men and force them into naval or military service
earth-shaking – Durrell uses the word ironically, meaning that their conclusion was anything but original or unexpected
epiphyte ['epifait] – a non-parasitic plant that grows on another plant but gets its nourishment from the air, as certain orchids, mosses, and lichens
orchid ['o: kid] – an epiphyte plant often growing on trees; its flowers, especially those of tropical varieties, are of very bright colors
liana – any luxuriantly growing woody tropical vine that roots in the ground and climbs around tree trunks
sure-footed – not likely to stumble, slip, or fall
macabrely – in a macabre, i.e. horrible or ghastly way
gooey (sl.) – sticky as glue
as I ducked and twisted my way – as I made my way twisting and ducking (by twisting the author means that his path in the undergrowth changed its direction all the time, and by ducking, that he had to jerk his head or the whole body downwards to avoid the blows of the branches)
toukan, or toucan – a brightly colored, fruit-eating bird of tropical America, distinguished by a large, down curved beak
fungi – any of a group of plants, including mildew, molds, mushrooms, rusts and toadstools that have no leaves or flowers, and reproduce by means of spores
Venetian glass – fine glassware made in or near Venice
The author means that the gloomy and sinister landscape would have been a suitable place for the meeting of the three witches in the opening scene of Shakespeare's Macbeth.
anti-coagulant – a substance that prevents coagulation of blood
ticks – a large group of wingless insects that attach themselves to the skin of men or animals and suck their blood
birds of a feather flock together – a proverb which means that people with the same characteristics or tastes gather, assemble together
to stalk – to get close (usually to game) cautiously and noiselessly, without being seen, heard, or winded; the figure of a stalking Red Indian is familiar from numerous American works of fiction (e. g. novels by James Fenimore Cooper)
tree-snake – a variety of grass-snake, a small non-poisonous snake, having a very beautiful coloring of yellow, green and black with metal gleam, and living in trees and brushes
dropping (usually pl.) – dung of animals
lovesick swain (poet.) – a country youth hopelessly in love, so much in love as to feel sick or unhappy
boudoir ['bu: dwa: ] – literally, 'a place to sulk in', from Fr. bouder 'to sulk'; formerly, the name was applied to a lady's private sitting-room or dressing-room, now it may mean any small private room, or even, as here, a bedroom (usually ironical)
Here we find an interplay of the two meanings of the noun extremity:
1) pl. 'the hands and feet';
2) 'an extreme measure'.
The author speaks of this part of his anatomy as if it were some sort of food, like, say, "frozen leg of mutton" (note the absence of article).
Scott, Robert Falcon (1868–1912) – English naval officer and explorer, leader of two Antarctic expeditions, in the second of which he reached the South Pole (18th January 1912). Scott himself and the rest of the Pole party perished on the return journey.
overdraft – a withdrawal of money from a bank in excess of the amount credited to the drawer; the amount withdrawn in excess
the National Debt – the result of different credit operations of the state to get money necessary for meeting the expenditures which are not secured by the national income
rabies ['reibi: z] – an infectious virus disease of the central nervous system in dogs and other flesh-eating animals; it can be transmitted to man by the bite of an infected animal and is characterized by choking convulsions, inability to swallow liquids, etc.; it is fatal if not treated immediately (also called hydrophobia)
a rake-off (U.S. slang) – a commission or profit, especially when received in an illegitimate transaction
a whole-time job – a job that takes up all your time
The author means that the sum amounted to a fantastically big figure, reminding one of what a light-year stands for (a distance of approximately 6,000,000,000,000 miles that light travels, in one year). The Astronomer Royal – the Royal Astronomer Society in England.
there was nothing for it – there was nothing to be done
pigeon-toed – with the toes turned inwards
by the hour – for hours on end
scent gland – a special kind of gland of certain animals, as skunks, coatimundis and others, producing a substance with an offensive smell; it serves them for marking their territories and as a means of defence
having… hoisted the coatimundi equivalent of the flag – having marked his territory to show that it was occupied (this is what a hoisted, i.e. raised, flag usually shows)
within range – a military expression, where range means 'firing range', 'range of a shot'
to lord it over somebody – to rule over somebody, to act in an overbearing, dictatorial manner
Durrell invents this name in imitation of other children's games.
let alone – not to mention, to say nothing of
douroucoulis – genus of monkeys, the family of capuchin: a South American monkey with a whitish face and a hoodlike crown of black hair
a stick of rock – i.e. of rock candy, hard sweetmeat made of sugar
nothing loath to leaving – quite willing to leave
aviary ['eivjari] – a large cage for keeping many birds
fly-blown – full of flies' eggs and larvae; hence dirty, contaminated
cabinet – a case with drawers or shelves to hold (or house) small objects of art, jewels, etc.
unicorn – a fabulous animal resembling a horse with a single twisted horn, chiefly known from its heraldic representation (facing the lion) in the British royal arms; Piccadilly – a fashionable street in London, between Haymarket and Hyde Park Corner
are not two a penny – are not too common, are not so easy to find. The expression comes from a street-pedlar cry, preserved in the following old nursery-rhyme:
Hot-cross buns!
Hot-cross buns!
One a penny, two a penny,
Hot-cross buns!
The words care of (or, in short, c/o) are placed on the envelope before the name of the person who is expected to transmit the letter to the actual addressee (for instance, if the latter is staying in his house).
sleeper – any of the parallel crossbeams to which the rails of a railroad (the track) are fastened
the train crash of the century – the most sensational train crash of our age; of the century has become quite a catch-phrase: in the newspapers one reads of the murder of the century, of the museum-robbery of the century, and even of the winter of the century (said of an unusually cold winter)
a Western film, often called simply a Western (the same as a Wild West film) – in U. S. A. cinematography, a motion picture about the adventures of cowboys or frontier men in the far West of the United States during its so-called "early period of lawlessness", i.e. the beginning of the 19th century
cowcatcher – a metal frame on the front of a locomotive to remove obstructions from the tracks
The author spent the earlier part of his life in Greece, hence his knowledge of the language.
to run to earth – here to find after a long search (a hunting term used jocularly; cf. other instances of its use on pp. 99, 121)
forty-odd cages – more than forty cages; the word odd when mentioned in round numbers, means 'additional to a whole'
to come into one's own – to start performing one's duties
to doll up (colloq.) – to dress carefully and stylishly or showily
Martin Fierro – an epic poem by Jose Fernandez, a well-known poet of Argentina
Bosun ['bousn] = boatswain, the ship's officer who is in charge of the crew, the boats, rigging, etc.
pale into insignificance – become insignificant, seem of no importance
full of beans (sl.) – full of energy, lively, brisk, vivacious
to husband – here to economize, to spend thriftily
the Great Fire of London – the fire that destroyed the most part, of London in 1666
beautifully appointed – very nicely furnished
at the double – at a run, at double speed
a whacking great shot (sl.) – a very big dose
kill or cure – here a remedy that would either cure a patient very quickly or kill him
for all I knew – as far as I knew
allergic to something – having an allergy, not able to stand something (allergy – a hypersensitivity to a specific substance, such as certain foods, dust, etc., or condition, as heat or cold, which in similar amounts is harmless to most people)
she's right out – she has passed out, i.e. lost consciousness
terrific (colloq.) – wonderful, magnificent
"hostesses" – a euphemistic name for the local prostitutes
port of call – a harbour where merchant ships discharge and take in cargo; figuratively, a place regularly visited by someone
to stand someone a drink – to treat to a drink
carnavalitos (Sp.) – gay songs
pobrecita (Sp.) – poor thing
she never looked back – she never returned to her previous bad state
by leaps and bounds – very quickly, with very rapid progress
porcine – pertaining to or characteristic of pigs (cf. equine charges on p. 27, feline tribe on p. 121)
The Pit and the Pendulum – a story by Edgar Allan Poe (1809–1849), American poet, critic and prose writer. The main personage who tells the story was sentenced to death by the Spanish inquisition and thrown into a dark dungeon, where he lay bound hand and foot, with dozens of rats running all over his body.
to pull somebody round – to cause somebody to recover from an illness, to save
despachante (Sp.) – a Customs official who is in charge of dispatching, i.e. sending off goods
We had twenty minutes to go. – We had twenty minutes at our disposal.
stop press – the latest news inserted in a special-column of a newspaper after printing has begun