The Merlot Murders

First in Wine

For nearly four centuries—since the first colonists arrived in Jamestown in 1607—Virginians have been making wine. Elated to discover abundant wild grapes growing on the shoreline of the James River, the settlers took only two years before they produced their first harvest. The results, unfortunately, were less than stellar as the native American grapes produced wine that tasted and smelled like wet dog.

By 1618, the Jamestown settlers abandoned local grapes and began importing French vines—and French winemakers. But these delicate vines, known as vitis vinifera, weren’t well suited for the heat, humidity, and pests found in Virginia. The vines either died or didn’t bear fruit. Nevertheless in 1619 the House of Burgesses—stubbornly determined to cultivate a home-grown wine industry—passed a law requiring every male colonist to plant twenty vines. For every dead or non-fruit-bearing vine, the fine was a barrel of corn. Not surprisingly, the House of Burgesses acquired a lot of corn.

Over the years the Virginia legislature continued unsuccessfully to foster a wine industry, even as tobacco was becoming the true cash crop. More than 150 years after Jamestown, Thomas Jefferson, one of Virginia’s most famous native sons, tried to grow grapes at his beloved Monticello. Convinced Virginia had the right soil and climate for producing grapes that would rival European wines, Jefferson died without seeing his dream realized.

Yet his fellow Virginians persisted, and by the 1800s cross-pollination between European vitis vinifera and American grapes created the first American hybrids such as the Alexander, Norton (a Virginia native), Catawba, and others. However, the Civil War, which was hard fought on Virginia soil as nowhere else, caused many vineyards to be destroyed or abandoned. Shortly afterward California wines arrived on the scene and rapidly cornered the lion’s share of the U.S. market. It took Prohibition, arriving in Virginia three years before Congress made the U.S. a dry country in 1919, to finish off what little was left of the industry.

The mid-1970s saw a renaissance in grape planting in the Commonwealth thanks to new success growing French hybrids such as Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc, and Chambourcin, along with agricultural breakthroughs finally allowing vitis vinifera grapes to flourish in Virginia. In 2004 the state government in Richmond produced a strategic blueprint for the industry that traces its lineage directly to Jefferson’s long ago dreams. Known as Vision 2015, the goal is to establish Virginia—already a serious contender in national and international markets—as a producer of world-class wines.

Thomas Jefferson would be proud.