Although News Pop was picking up my tab for travel, hotel rooms, and meals, all sightseeing was to be done on my own nickel. I was still living off the settlement given me when the Calcommon Corporation downsized my job out of existence, so although I could expect a check for a few more months, I didn’t have money to burn.
There’s a large shopping arcade under the Imperial Hotel, and after changing some traveler’s checks for yen in the lobby, I went down to the arcade as my first stop. I passed the fancy art galleries, designer clothing stores, and nice restaurants and made my way to a bookstore. At the bookstore, I bought a good street map of Tokyo and had the clerk circle the location of the Imperial Hotel.
I figured if I got really lost, I could point to the circle on the map and a taxi driver could get me back to the hotel. Of course, that might not always work. I heard a story of a tourist in Tokyo who picked up a matchbook in his hotel’s lobby, figuring that if he ever became lost he could point to the hotel’s name on the matchbook and have the taxi driver take him back to the hotel.
The inevitable happened and the tourist became hopelessly lost. He jumped into a taxi and handed the matchbook to the driver. The driver asked a question in Japanese and the tourist replied in English. It took about two seconds to realize that neither person could speak the other’s language. The tourist kept pointing to the matchbook and gesturing until the taxi driver had a light bulb go on. “Ah!” the driver exclaimed and he started driving. The tourist settled back in the cab and relaxed while the driver drove for about thirty minutes.
Suddenly the taxi came to a stop in an industrial neighborhood that was totally unfamiliar to the tourist. He was trying to figure out where he was while the driver proudly pointed to a building in front of the cab. The tourist looked out of the cab and saw a factory building with a big sign on it that said Tokyo Match Company.
My map had a diagram of the large Tokyo subway and rail system on it. One elevated train, the Yamanote line, runs in a huge circle around Tokyo. This circular line is sometimes used in Japan to describe a speaker. If a speaker is a Yamanote, it means he goes around and around and never comes to the point. I thought riding a loop on the Yamanote line would be a cheap way to get a quick tour of the city. I checked my map and decided to walk to a nearby train station, hop on the Yamanote line, and ride it until I had made a complete circle before getting off at the station next to where I got on.
Walking to the train station from the hotel was an interesting experience. I thought that some racial memory might make the streets of Japan familiar, but although I felt oddly comfortable on the streets, Tokyo was as alien to me as Lagos, Nigeria, or Bombay, India would be.
The twisty streets of Tokyo, originally laid out in a way to confound invading armies, also serve to confound invading tourists. The fact that some streets don’t have names also adds to the fun, along with the Japanese custom of assigning numbers based on the sequence that the buildings in a neighborhood were built. Over time, this custom makes it impossible to guarantee that building four is flanked by buildings three and five. For a country normally viewed by the rest of the world as being orderly and systematic, something as simple as trying to find an address illustrates that the Japanese are as illogical and silly as the rest of us.
As I walked along, the people around me seemed to be in a great rush. In Los Angeles, we sort of meander when we walk. In Tokyo, people were very intent on reaching their destination and not intent on enjoying the journey. As I walked along, I wondered if I was doing the gin-bura, or Ginza stroll. In the old days, the samurai would positively swagger, especially on a big public street in the Ginza district, where all the big money lenders, banks, and smartest shops could be found. Now it looked more to me like the Japanese were practicing the Ginza sprint, because I was the only one strolling.
As people scurried past me, they treated me very much like a tree or one of the metal guardrails that seemed designed to keep people from parking on the sidewalk. The bustle was very reminiscent of New York City, but with one big difference. In Tokyo, not one person bumped into me, jostled me, or even gave me a hard look. The schools of people seemed to flow around me like fish around coral.
I made it to the train station, bought a ticket from a machine, and climbed up to the platform. The train was old, but kept up, and for once I had a good time running around in circles. I ended up in the Ginza, near where I started from, and spent the rest of the day exploring the area and wandering through the big department stores.
For lunch I stopped at the restaurant in the Wako department store that looks over the intersection of Chuo Dori and Harumi Dori, the heart of the Ginza. I ate tiny cucumber, butter, and ham sandwiches that had the crusts carefully sliced off and watched the endless ebb and flow of humanity outside the window.
In the crowd, I saw a tall blond tourist making his way across the intersection. His pale skin, straw hair, and lanky body looked totally out of place in the milling crowd of short, dark-haired pedestrians. He was a pale cork bobbing in a sea of black and brown. I realized that the reason I felt comfortable on the streets was because I blended into the crowd perfectly. That’s not always an advantage in Japan. I know another AJA (American of Japanese Ancestry) who frequently comes to Japan on business. He once told me that he liked to walk with tall, blond business associates because the Tokyo drivers will always stop and let a gaijin (foreigner) cross the street. Because he looked Japanese, my friend was cut no slack by Tokyo drivers, and he was expected to be nimble and watch out for himself when crossing the road.
Junko would be able to blend into this street scene as easily as I would, but in Japan she was an alien. I was used to standing out based on my Asian looks, and I associated racial prejudice with looking different. When I was in the army during the Vietnam War, I was once sitting on the ground with a large number of recruits early in my stint in basic training. A grizzled sergeant came up to us and barked, “Tanaka! Stand up!” I didn’t know what I had done wrong, but I scrambled to my feet as ordered. “Okay, you recruits, look at Tanaka. Take a good look, because this is what a gook looks like, and gooks are the enemy!” My faced burned, but I was nineteen and in the midst of the most frightening and unsettling experience of my life and didn’t know what to do. All I could do was stand there humiliated as the other recruits laughed. What was especially disturbing was this sergeant was African-American, and he must have known what it was like to be singled out because of your race. Unfortunately, whatever life experiences he had along these lines didn’t teach him empathy, only mimicry.
Junko looked just like the people walking around on the street below me. Yet despite looking, acting, and sounding like everyone else, she was a minority because her ancestors were born in Korea. It’s a strange world, and one we make unnecessarily stranger by dividing people up into different types of minorities.
In the afternoon, I took a cab back to the studio and met with a pleasant surprise from Junko. As soon as she saw me, she asked, “Where did you say you bought that sword?”
“At a garage sale.”
“And how much did you pay for it?”
“A hundred dollars.”
“When we leave the studio I want you to go with me to buy a lottery ticket,” Junko said.
“Why?”
“Because you must be incredibly lucky. That sword could be very valuable.”
Stunned, I asked, “How do you know?”
“Those news stories we found made me curious about who the swordsmith Kannemori was and why so many of his swords were stolen, so I did some research against some Japanese language databases. Those databases are more comprehensive than the English language databases we subscribe to. In the university database, I found an article about Kannemori swords that was printed in a scholarly journal in 1987. It described some unusual swords made by Kannemori in the early 1600s. It seems the swords were especially made for the Toyotomi clan. These blades have a design incised into the blades that actually weakens the sword and ruins it as a fighting weapon. Your sword has the same kind of designs as those described in the article. The article talked about blades at the Japan National Museum and in the hands of a private collector here in Japan. Those two had different designs on their blades and yours seems to be different still. If yours is a Kannemori blade it could be worth a lot.”
“How could we find out for sure?”
“I’ve already called the author of the article, Professor Hirota. He teaches Japanese history at All Japan University. He’s out of town right now, but his assistant said Professor Hirota would call me as soon as he’s back. He said the professor would probably be very interested. I’m going to ask Professor Hirota if he’ll look at your sword and see if it’s a Kannemori.”
I don’t view myself as a greedy man, but I was unemployed and the prospect of a windfall from a garage sale purchase made my spirits soar.
Junko was working on a videotape piece that gave the details of the murder I had solved, and she asked me to help make sure the chronology and facts were right. She was weaving news footage and stock pictures of Los Angeles together to illustrate the piece, which she said would take up three minutes of my twelve-minute segment. I secretly wished she would make a longer tape introduction, because the remaining nine minutes of live interview seemed like an eternity to fill.
My enthusiasm for being on camera live was waning as I thought of all the embarrassing and disastrous possibilities. Mostly, I thought I’d freeze up and sit there grinning like an idiot while the hosts asked me questions in Japanese. Finally I confessed my apprehensions to Junko.
She smiled and said, “Everyone gets nervous, but not too many people admit it, especially men. You’ll do fine. If you’d like, I’ll give you some hints.”
“Dozo,” I said, using the Japanese word for please.
“I thought you didn’t speak Japanese,” she answered.
“Dozo represents a significant chunk of my Japanese vocabulary. I know some words, but I don’t know grammar. Plus, everyone speaks so fast, I can’t even pick out the few words I know.”
Junko laughed. “When you’re beginning to learn a language, it seems like everyone is speaking really fast. It’s just that you haven’t adjusted to the rhythm of the language yet. After a while, it seems like people slow down and you can hear individual words, but it’s really because you’ve picked up an ear for a particular language.”
“You should know. You speak several languages.”
“Well, the more you learn, the easier it seems. Everyone gets English training in the Japanese school system, although English teachers are usually terrible. We learn to read and write it very well, but spoken language skills are incredibly poor. Many of our English teachers just don’t know how to speak it properly.”
“Japanese is a hard language. I’ve thought of trying to learn it, but it seems too difficult.”
“Japanese is hard, but its main problem is that it has little utility outside of Japan. English, Spanish, or French are used in many countries, so they’re much more useful than Japanese. Actually, English is incredibly hard to learn well because you have a huge vocabulary and similar words are pronounced differently. Also, you have sounds in English that we seldom use in Japanese. Spanish is popular here because its sounds are closer to Japanese and a lot easier for us to pronounce.”
“Then you’d get along in L.A. Spanish is the second language.”
“Since we’re working on a piece about the murder of a Japanese in L.A., I’m not sure I’m anxious to visit it. L.A. has a terrible reputation for safety here in Japan.”
“Well, with subway gassings and other violence Tokyo is losing its reputation for safety, too.”
Junko sighed. “Yes, I guess you’re right. Maybe there aren’t any places for safety left in this world.”
“There are, but they’re not to be found in big cities. Can I ask you something?”
“What is it?”
“When you were talking about Japanese learning English you said ‘we,’ but you made a point of telling me you were Korean when we met. Do you consider yourself Japanese?”
“That’s hard to know. Sometimes it seems like Japanese society makes a point of emphasizing I’m Korean. Koreans are often discriminated against, and it’s hard to find a good job because Koreans are often relegated to hard and dirty work. I’m an exception, but I’ve had to work twice as hard as any Japanese to make the same progress. Koreans have the reputation of being connected with Japanese organized crime and caught up in gambling, prostitution, and extortion, and some employers just won’t hire us.”
“Are Koreans involved in crime?”
Junko turned red. “Koreans are involved in greater numbers than our share of the population. Part of that is because many legitimate avenues for advancement are closed to us. But a lot of Japanese are involved in crime and Koreans seem to be treated more harshly when they’re caught.”
“That’s exactly the view of some minorities in the States. Why don’t you try to take political action or something to change things? Shake things up a bit?”
“Because in Japan, harmony is valued above all. We have radical groups on the right and on the left, but generally speaking most people are very conservative and don’t want to shake things up, as you put it. There’s also a practical reason. Japanese politics requires huge amounts of money.”
“It does in the U.S., too. But instead of seeking harmony we’re becoming increasingly factionalized. That doesn’t make it pleasant for Asians or other minority groups who can’t get a block vote together.”
“But in the U.S., your government has still made periodic efforts to correct some inequities. In Japan, the government won’t even acknowledge problems. Japan occupied Korea as a colonial power for about thirty-five years after World War I. That’s why my grandfather was brought here as a virtual slave laborer. In Korea, the Korean language was forbidden and the population was oppressed. Korean women were forced to become comfort women, which is a Japanese euphemism for prostitutes. The Japanese government has just acknowledged that practice, but they’ve never compensated the women. They said a private fund, not the government, should do that. They spent $600 million to promote the fund and collected only about half that much in donations. It was a complete farce. The history I was taught in school just didn’t chronicle the bad things the Japanese did.”
“When I grew up, they didn’t teach about the U.S. camps for Japanese-Americans during World War II, either,” I said. “Now the U.S. government has made some effort to compensate the camp inmates. But Junko, if things are so difficult for you in Japan, why do you stay?”
“Because culturally I’m Japanese. Although I was born a Korean, my native language, schooling, and much of my outlook is Japanese. It’s confusing because I also want to remain Korean. I just feel like I’m not accepted for what I am.”
“I sometimes have the same feelings back in the States.”