5

On a breezy early April day, just after the last of the Chinese dust has blown off toward Japan and the skies have cleared to a newly scoured blue, the prettiest place in Pyongyang is along the banks of the Taedong River. Some people might argue and say it is prettier in the small hills behind the Moranbong Theater, where the dogwoods bloom against the stones of the old fortress walls. Nice enough, but there are usually too many schoolchildren there learning to draw. The girls chatter and laugh; the boys run after each other. A few sit seriously, holding their brushes over the paper, observing the scene. Some actually paint something, and smile shyly if you nod in encouragement. If you’re in the mood, watching the children is fine. But to me, the riverside is better, quieter, more serene. There aren’t many benches, so I am always glad to find one unoccupied. I don’t like to sit with strangers.

The lack of seating-other than on the grass, which grows in patches this time of year-is the result of too many bureaucrats with too little to do. Almost forgotten in the General Bureau of Urban Planning was a small unit of landscape architects looking for ways to justify their existence. Out for a morning stroll, one of the architects stumbled over the benches along the river. Several memos were dispatched claiming that riverside benches made for clutter, interfered with the natural beauty of the spot, and so forth. One of the memos landed on the desk of the People’s Culture Commission director, the man who had authorized, at some cost to his small budget, the benches along the river to begin with. He had justified the decision on the grounds that without benches no one would walk on the riverside path. I knew this, because I had to go back and look at the memos when everything landed on my desk.

I discovered that what the commission director didn’t say was that if no one used the path, the snack vendors who had paid him monthly bribes for occupancy rights near the river would be out of business. The director impressed me as a thoughtful man and kind in his own way, but not to the extent of overly worrying about the fate of the vendors. However, he knew that, bribes having been paid punctually on the fifth of every month by all concerned, if customers stopped coming because the benches had been removed, letters of complaint would appear. Such letters inevitably ended up in a file, and in this case, he was certain, they would make their way to his.

The dispute should have been solved in a dreary meeting with a political cadre, possibly a short woman speaking in hard-edged tones. Unexpectedly, it became a police matter. The commission director had no faith in political cadre, male or female, and the more he thought about it, the more he did not like the idea of letters of complaint in his file. One day, a Friday, he brought a few more wooden benches to the riverside, slopped on green paint he “found” along the road near his apartment, and went away. That night, the benches disappeared, every one of them. The director filed a complaint the next morning. He sat, vexed, in my office and said in a loud voice that he knew exactly who was responsible. I told him suspicions weren’t proof. That might have ended the matter because there was not much else to be done, and I was not inclined to do it, certainly not on a Saturday. We were shorthanded at the time, and chasing architects-which I had done early in my career-was not high on my list. But a few days later, a report came in from one of the security patrols. Around midnight on the night the benches vanished, a patrolman sitting under a bridge for a smoke had heard someone walk by speaking Chinese. He didn’t know if it meant anything, but he said it was rare.

Pyongyang has a small Chinese population. Over the years, I’ve made it my business to stay friends with a young Chinese woman, fairly pretty and quite observant, who does a good job keeping track of who spits and who doesn’t among her countrymen. After a quiet dinner with her, and a phone call or two, it became clear that the landscape architects had hired Chinese thugs to get rid of the benches. They hadn’t planned for the cheap green paint, which never completely dried. When the bench robbers got back to the hotel on Yanggak Island where they sit around the lobby and bother the prostitutes, the paint moved from their clothing to the chairs. The manager told them to go to hell and not come back. They broke his revolving glass doors on the way out.

It wasn’t much of a challenge to solve the case after that, though we never found all the benches-not even most of them. Apart from the green paint in the lobby of the hotel, they disappeared without a trace. The People’s Culture Commission was denied extra funds to buy new ones, so the few that were recovered had to be spread out. They sat like lonely outposts, which was fine for the young couples who used them as often as they could, on all except the coldest nights. The case file came back from the Ministry Review Board without any words of praise, without any comment at all, other than a note attached with a broken staple: “Pending.”

At least now, in the sunshine, it was pleasant to sit on one of the benches, repainted a dull white, and let my thoughts roam. They kept roaming to the bank robbery and to a persistent sense I had that, whatever Min thought the Ministry wanted, we should keep away from this case. I checked my pockets for a scrap of wood. On a spring day, a piece of mulberry is soothing, uncomplicated. Mulberry is friendly. Maybe that’s why silkworms like mulberry leaves so much; maybe the Chinese princess who first fed such leaves to them was smarter than her father, the Emperor, realized. I didn’t have any mulberry with me. There was nothing but a few pieces of paper for taking notes; no wood, no sandpaper. In my shirt pocket, I found a cigarette that was slightly bent in the middle. I smoothed it into shape, rummaged around for a match, then lit the tobacco. It was a local brand, out of a half-crushed package that sometimes sat in my desk drawer covering the badge I never wore. I took a few puffs and balanced the cigarette on the edge of the bench.

A young couple sat on the grass in front of me, leaning against each other. The man kept looking over his shoulder, but I didn’t take the hint. I had rescued this bench; I could park on it as long as I wanted. A two-man patrol walked by, and the couple moved apart; the older patrolman gave me a halfhearted salute and a tight smile, then returned to a conversation with his partner. The couple leaned back against each other. The man turned to give me another look, but I was already thinking about getting up.

There was no sense getting too comfortable-my next stop would have to be the city morgue. I couldn’t be sure how long they would keep the bank robber’s body. They might have already dumped it, which would explain why Min was only shown photographs. If they had already dumped it, I needed to know why. Incompetence was high on the list of possibilities, but there might be another explanation, a category three explanation that I could use to convince Min to let us drop the whole thing.

The morgue is not part of the Ministry. It’s not even really connected to the security services anymore. It works according to its own needs, and strictly on a space-available basis. It was never big to begin with, just a small addition at the back of the central hospital. Under the new economic program, with everyone urged to make a profit, the hospital decided to partition the morgue, move in some beds, and fashion two or three private rooms for paying, foreign patients. Patients pay their bills. Stiffs do not. I finished the cigarette, tossed the stub in the river, and climbed the steps back to my car. As I started the engine, it somersaulted across my mind that cigarettes made me jumpy. I wondered if it was possible to smoke mulberry leaves. I wondered if the Chinese princess had tried.

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