Пустые калории. Почему мы едим то, что не является едой, и при этом не можем остановиться

Примечания

Предисловие

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1. Почему в моем мороженом бактериальная слизь? Изобретение УПП

1 Avison Z. Why UK consumers spend 8 % of their money on food. 2020. Доступно по ссылке: https:// ahdb.org.uk/news/consumer-insightwhy-uk-consumers-spend-8-of-their-money-on-food.

2 Office for National Statistics. Living costs and food survey. 2017. Доступно по ссылке: https:// www.ons.gov.uk/peoplepopulationandcommunity/personalandhouseholdfinances/incomeandwealth/methodologies/livingcostsandfoodsurvey.

3 Scott C, Sutherland J, Taylor A. Affordability of the UK’s Eatwell Guide. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: https://foodfoundation.org.uk/sites/default/files/20210–10/Affordability-of-the-Eatwell-Guide_Final_Web-Version.pdf.

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2. Можно мне лучше пять тарелок Coco Pops? Открытие УПП

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2 Ioannidis JPA. Why most published research findings are false. pLoS Medicine 2005; 2: e124.

3 Rauber F, da Costa Louzada ML, Steele EM, et al. Ultra-processed food consumption and chronic noncommunicable diseases-related dietary nutrient profile in the UK (2008–2014). Nutrients 2018; 10: 587.

4 Rauber et al, 2020.

5 Chang et al, 2021.

6 Rauber F, Steele EM, da Costa Louzada ML, et al. Ultra-processed food consumption and indicators of obesity in the United Kingdom population (2008–2016). pLoS One 2020; 15: e0232676.

7 Martínez Steele E, Juul F, Neri D, Rauber F, Monteiro CA. Dietary share of ultra-processed foods and metabolic syndrome in the US adult population. Preventive Medicine 2019; 125: 40–48.

8 Public Health England. Annex A: The 2018 review of the UK Nutrient Profiling Model. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_ data/file/694145/Annex__A_the_2018_review_of_the_UK_nutrient_profiling_model.pdf.

9 Levy-Costa RB, Sichieri R, dos Santos Pontes N, et al. Household food availability in Brazil: distribution and trends (1974–2003). Revista de Saúde Pública 2005; 39: 530–40.

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3. Да, «ультрапереработанная пища» звучит как-то нехорошо, но действительно ли это проблема?

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8 Schnabel L, Kesse-Guyot E, Allès B, et al. Association between ultraprocessed food consumption and risk of mortality among middle-aged adults in France. JAMA Internal Medicine 2019; 179: 490–98.

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13 Bonaccio et al, 2021.

14 Kim et al, 2021.

15 Srour B, Fezeu LK, Kesse-Guyot E, et al. Ultra-processed food intake and risk of cardiovascular disease: prospective cohort study (NutriNet-Santé). British Medical Journal 2019; 365: l1451.

16 Fiolet et al, 2018.

17 Llavero-Valero M, Martín JE-S, Martínez-González MA, et al. Ultraprocessed foods and type-2 diabetes risk in the SUN project: a prospective cohort study. Clinical Nutrition 2021; 40: 2817–24.

18 Srour B, Fezeu LK, Kesse-Guyot E, et al. Ultraprocessed food consumption and risk of type 2 diabetes among participants of the NutriNet-Santé prospective cohort. JAMA Internal Medicine 2020; 180: 283–91.

19 Jardim MZ, Costa BVdL, Pessoa MC, et al. Ultra-processed foods increase noncommunicable chronic disease risk. Nutrition Research 2021; 95: 19–34.

20 Silva Meneguelli T, Viana Hinkelmann J, Hermsdorff HHM, et al. Food consumption by degree of processing and cardiometabolic risk: a systematic review. International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition 2020; 71: 678–92.

21 de Mendonça RD, Lopes ACS, Pimenta AM, et al. Ultra-processed food consumption and the incidence of hypertension in a Mediterranean cohort: the Seguimiento Universidad de Navarra Project. American Journal of Hypertension 2017; 30: 358–66.

22 Zhang S, Gan S, Zhang Q, et al. Ultra-processed food consumption and the risk of non-alcoholic fatty liver disease in the Tianjin Chronic Low-Grade Systemic Inflammation and Health Cohort Study. International Journal of Epidemiology 2021; 51: 237–49.

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24 Lo C-H, Khandpur N, Rossato S, et al. Ultra-processed foods and risk of Crohn’s disease and ulcerative colitis: a prospective cohort study. Clinical Gastroenterology and Hepatology 2022; 20: 1323–37.

25 Gо́mez-Donoso C, Sánchez-Villegas A, Martínez-González MA, et al. Ultra-processed food consumption and the incidence of depression in a Mediterranean cohort: the SUN project. European Journal of Nutrition 2020; 59:1093–103.

26 Schnabel L, Buscail C, Sabate J-M, et al. Association between ultraprocessed food consumption and functional gastrointestinal disorders: results from the French NutriNet-Santé cohort. American Journal of Gastroenterology 2018; 113: 1217–28.

27 Zhang S, Gu Y, Rayamajhi S, et al. Ultra-processed food intake is associated with grip strength decline in middle-aged and older adults: a prospective analysis of the TCLSIH study. European Journal of Nutrition 2022; 61: 1331–41.

28 Schnabel et al, 2018.

29 Li H, Li S, Yang H, et al. Association of ultraprocessed food consumption with risk of dementia: a prospective cohort study. Neurology 2022; 99: e1056–66.

30 Li et al, 2022.

31 Bonaccio et al, 2021.

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33 Chen et al, 2022.

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4. (Поверить не могу, что это не) угольное масло: самая «ультра» из всей ультрапереработанной пищи

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5. Три эры еды

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6. Как наши тела на самом деле распоряжаются калориями

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7. Почему дело не в сахаре…

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8. …и не в физических нагрузках…

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9. …и даже не в силе воли

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10. Как УПП взламывает наш мозг

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24 Volkow ND, Wang G-J, Fowler JS, et al. Overlapping neuronal circuits in addiction and obesity: evidence of systems pathology. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society B 2008; 363: 3191–200.

25 Volkow ND, Wang GJ, Fowler JS, et al. Food and drug reward: overlapping circuits in human obesity and addiction. Current Topics in Behavioral Neurosciences 2012; 11: 1–24.

26 Afshin A, Sur PJ, Fay KA, et al. Health effects of dietary risks in 195 countries, 1990–2017: a systematic analysis for the Global Burden of Disease Study 2017. Lancet 2019; 393: 1958–72.

11. УПП заранее разжевана

1 Haber GB, Heaton KW, Murphy D, Burroughs LF. Depletion and disruption of dietary fibre. Effects on satiety, plasma-glucose, and serum-insulin. Lancet 1977; 2: 679–82.

2 Ungoed-Thomas J. An honest crust? Craft bakeries rise up against ‘sourfaux’ bread. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://amp.theguardian.com/food/2022/apr/23/fake-bake-uk-government-steps-in-over-sourfaux-threat-to-craft-bakers.

3 Dodson TB, Susarla SM. Impacted wisdom teeth. BMJ Clinical Evidence 2014; 2014: 1302.

4 Corruccini RS. How Anthropology Informs the Orthodontic Diagnosis of Malocclusion’s Causes. London: Edwin Mellen Press, 1999.

5 Lieberman, D. The Story of the Human Body: Evolution, Health and Disease. London: Penguin Books, 2011.

6 Corruccini RS. Australian aboriginal tooth succession, interproximal attrition, and Begg’s theory. American Journal of Orthodontics and Dentofacial Orthopedics 1990; 97: 349–57.

7 Corruccini RS. An epidemiologic transition in dental occlusion in world populations. American Journal of Orthodontics 1984; 86: 419–26.

8 Lieberman DE, Krovitz GE, Yates FW, et al. Effects of food processing on masticatory strain and craniofacial growth in a retrognathic face. Journal of Human Evolution 2004; 46: 655–77.

9 BBC News. Mary Rose skeletons studied by Swansea sports scientists. 2012. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/ukwales-17309665.

10 Ingervall B, Bitsanis E. A pilot study of the effect of masticatory muscle training on facial growth in long-face children. European Journal of Orthodontics 1987 Feb; 9(1):15–23.

11 Business Insider. There’s a very simple reason why McDonald’s hamburgers don’t rot. 2017. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.businessinsider.com/why-mcdonalds-hamburgers-do-not-rot-2016-2?r=US&IR=T.

12 Rolls BJ. The relationship between dietary energy density and energy intake. Physiology & Behavior 2009; 97: 609–15.

13 Bell EA, Castellanos VH, Pelkman CL, et al. Energy density of foods affects energy intake in normalweight women. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition 1998; 67: 412–20.

14 Rolls BJ, Cunningham PM, Diktas HE. Properties of ultraprocessed foods that can drive excess intake. Nutrition Today 2020; 55: 109.

15 Bell et al, 1998.

16 Rolls et al, 2020.

17 Ohkuma T, Hirakawa Y, Nakamura U, et al. Association between eating rate and obesity: a systematic review and meta-analysis. International Journal of Obesity 2015; 39: 1589–96.

18 de Graaf C. Texture and satiation: the role of oro-sensory exposure time. Physiology & Behavior 2012; 107: 496–501.

19 Wee MSM, Goh AT, Stieger M, et al. Correlation of instrumental texture properties from textural profile analysis (TPA) with eating behaviours and macronutrient composition for a wide range of solid foods. Food & Function 2018; 9: 5301–12.

20 Zhu Y, Hsu WH, Hollis JH. Increasing the number of masticatory cycles is associated with reduced appetite and altered postprandial plasma concentrations of gut hormones, insulin and glucose. British Journal of Nutrition 2013; 110: 384–90.

21 Fogel A, Goh AT, Fries LR, et al. A description of an «obesogenic» eating style that promotes higher energy intake and is associated with greater adiposity in 4.5-year-old children: results from the GUSTO cohort. Physiology & Behavior 2017; 176: 107–16.

22 Llewellyn CH, van Jaarsveld CHM, Boniface D, et al. Eating rate is a heritable phenotype related to weight in children. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition 2008; 88: 1560–66.

23 de Wijk RA, Zijlstra N, Mars M, et al. The effects of food viscosity on bite size, bite effort and food intake. Physiology & Behavior 2008; 95: 527–32.

24 Forde CG, Mars M, de Graaf K. Ultra-processing or oral processing? A role for energy density and eating rate in moderating energy intake from processed foods. Current Developments in Nutrition 2020; 4: nzaa019.

25 Bell et al, 1998.

26 Gearhardt & Schulte, 2021.

12. УПП странно пахнет

1 Morrot G, Brochet F, Dubourdieu D. The color of odors. Brain and Language 2001; 79: 309–20.

2 Brochet F. Chemical object representation in the field of consciousness. Доступно по ссылке: https://web.archive.org/web/20070928231853if_/http://www.academie-amorim.com/us/laureat_2001/brochet.pdf.

3 Bushdid C, Magnasco MO, Vosshall LB, et al. Humans can discriminate more than 1 trillion olfactory stimuli. Science 2014; 343: 1370–72.

4 McGann JP. Poor human olfaction is a 19th-century myth. Science 2017; 356: eaam7263.

5 Sclafani A. Oral and postoral determinants of food reward. Physiology & Behavior 2004; 81: 773–79.

6 de Araujo IE, Lin T, Veldhuizen MG, et al. Metabolic regulation of brain response to food cues. Current Biology 2013; 23: 878–83.

7 Holman EW. Immediate and delayed reinforcers for flavor preferences in rats. Learning and Motivation 1975; 6: 91–100.

8 Holman GL. Intragastric reinforcement effect. Journal of Comparative and Physiological Psychology 1969; 69: 432–41.

9 Mennella JA, Jagnow CP, Beauchamp GK. Prenatal and postnatal flavor learning by human infants. Pediatrics 2001; 107: E88.

10 Barabási A-L, Menichetti G, Loscalzo J. The unmapped chemical complexity of our diet. Nature Food 2020; 1: 33–37.

11 Holliday RJ, Helfter J. A Holistic Vet’s Prescription for a Healthy Herd: A Guide to Livestock Nutrition, Free-choice Minerals, and Holistic Cattle Care. Greeley: Acres USA, 2014.

12 Scrinis G. Reframing malnutrition in all its forms: a critique of thetripartite classification of malnutrition. Global Food Security 2020; 26: 100396.

13 Scrinis G. Ultra-processed foods and the corporate capture of nutrition – an essay by Gyorgy Scrinis. British Medical Journal 2020; 371: m4601.

14 Elizabeth L, Machado P, Zinocker M, et al. Ultra-processed foods and health outcomes: a narrative review. Nutrients 2020; 12: 1955.

15 Reardon T, Tschirley D, Liverpool-Tasie LSO, et al. The processed food revolution in African food systems and the double burden of malnutrition. Global Food Security 2021; 28: 100466.

16 Swinburn BA, Kraak VI, Allender S, Atkins VJ, Baker PI, Bogard JR, et al. The global syndemic of obesity, undernutrition, and climate change: the Lancet Commission report. Lancet 2019; 393: 791–846.

17 National Food Strategy, 2021.

18 OECDiLibrary. Obesity Among Children. 2019 Доступно по ссылке: https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/ sites/health_glance_eur-2018-26-en/index.html?itemId=/content/component/health_glance_eur-2018-26-en.

19 Enserink M. Did natural selection make the Dutch the tallest people on the planet? 2015. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.science.org/content/article/did-natural-selection-make-dutch-tallest-people-planet.

20 Haines G. Why are the Dutch so tall? 2020. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20200823-why-are-the-dutch-so-tall#:~:text=A%20land%20of%20giants%2C%20the,cm%20 and%20163.5cm%20respectively.

21 García OP, Long KZ, Rosado JL. Impact of micronutrient deficiencies on obesity. Nutrition Review 2009; 67: 559–72.

13. Вкус у УПП тоже странный

1 Chandrashekar J, Kuhn C, Oka Y, et al. The cells and peripheral representation of sodium taste in mice. Nature 2010; 464: 297–301.

2 Breslin PAS. An evolutionary perspective on food and human taste. Current Biology 2013; 23: R409–18.

3 Keast RSJ, Breslin PAS. An overview of binary taste – taste interactions. Food Quality and Preference 2003; 14: 111–24.

4 Henquin J-C. Do pancreatic β cells «taste» nutrients to secrete insulin? Science Signaling 2012; 5: e36.

5 Behrens M, Meyerhof W. Gustatory and extragustatory functions of mammalian taste receptors. Physiology & Behavior 2011; 105: 4–13.

6 Chandrashekar et al, 2010.

7 Breslin, 2013.

8 Breslin, 2013.

9 Breslin, 2013.

1 °Coca-Cola. Does Coca-Cola contain cocaine? 2020. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.coca-cola.co.uk/ our-business/faqs/does-coca-cola-contain-cocaine.

11 Tucker KL, Morita K, Qiao N, Hannan MT, Cupples LA, Kiel DP. Colas, but not other carbonated beverages, are associated with low bone mineral density in older women: The Framingham Osteoporosis Study. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition 2006; 84: 936–42.

12 Veldhuizen MG, Babbs RK, Patel B, et al. Integration of sweet taste and metabolism determines carbohydrate reward. Current Biology 2017; 27: 2476–2485.

13 Lopez O, Jacobs A. In town with little water, Coca-Cola is everywhere. So is diabetes. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/14/world/americas/mexico-coca-cola-diabetes.html.

14 Imamura F, O’Connor L, Ye Z, et al. Consumption of sugar sweetened beverages, artificially sweetened beverages, and fruit juice and incidence of type 2 diabetes: systematic review, meta-analysis, and estimation of population attributable fraction. British Medical Journal 2015; 351: h3576.

15 Fowler SP, Williams K, Resendez RG, et al. Fueling the obesity epidemic? Artificially sweetened beverage use and long-term weight gain. Obesity 2008; 16: 1894–900.

16 Fowler SPG. Low-calorie sweetener use and energy balance: results from experimental studies in animals, and large-scale prospective studies in humans. Physiology & Behavior 2016; 164: 517–23.

17 Nettleton JA, Lutsey PL, Wang Y, et al. Diet soda intake and risk of incident metabolic syndrome and type 2 diabetes in the Multi-Ethnic Study of Atherosclerosis (MESA). Diabetes Care 2009; 32: 688–94.

18 Gallagher AM, Ashwell M, Halford JCG, et al. Low-calorie sweeteners in the human diet: scientific evidence, recommendations, challenges and future needs. A symposium report from the FENS 2019 conference. Journal of Nutritional Science 2021; 10: e7.

19 Tate DF, Turner-McGrievy G, Lyons E, et al. Replacing caloric beverages with water or diet beverages for weight loss in adults: main results of the Choose Healthy Options Consciously Everyday (CHOICE) randomized clinical trial. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition 2012; 95: 555–63.

20 Miller PE, Perez V. Low-calorie sweeteners and body weight and composition: a meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials and prospective cohort studies. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition 2014; 100: 765–77.

21 Tate et al, 2012.

22 Sylvetsky AC, Figueroa J, Zimmerman T, et al. Consumption of lowcalorie sweetened beverages is associated with higher total energy and sugar intake among children, NHANES 2011–2016. Pediatric Obesity 2019; 14: e12535.

23 Dalenberg JR, Patel BP, Denis R, et al. Short-term consumption of sucralose with, but not without, carbohydrate impairs neural and metabolic sensitivity to sugar in humans. Cellular Metabolism 2020; 31: 493–502.

24 Swithers SE, Sample CH, Davidson TL. Adverse effects of high-intensity sweeteners on energy intake and weight control in male and obesity-prone female rats. Behavioral Neuroscience 2013; 127: 262–74.

25 Onaolapo AY, Onaolapo OJ. Food additives, food and the concept of ‘food addiction’: is stimulation of the brain reward circuit by food sufficient to trigger addiction? Pathophysiology 2018; 25: 263–76.

26 Bartolotto C. Does consuming sugar and artificial sweeteners change taste preferences? Permanente Journal 2015; 19: 81–84.

27 Rodriguez-Palacios A, Harding A, Menghini P, et al. The artificial sweetener Splenda promotes gut Proteobacteria, dysbiosis, and myeloperoxidase reactivity in Crohn’s disease-like ileitis. Inflammatory Bowel Disease 2018; 24: 1005–20.

28 de-la-Cruz M, Millán-Aldaco D, Soriano-Nava DM, et al. The artificial sweetener Splenda intake promotes changes in expression of c-Fos and NeuN in hypothalamus and hippocampus of rats. Brain Research 2018; 1700: 181–89.

29 Suez J, Korem T, Zeevi D, et al. Artificial sweeteners induce glucose intolerance by altering the gut microbiota. Nature 2014; 514: 181–86.

30 HM Treasury. Soft drinks industry levy comes into effect. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/soft-drinks-industry-levycomes-into-effect.

31 Pell D, Mytton O, Penney TL, et al. Changes in soft drinks purchased by British households associated with the UK soft drinks industry levy: controlled interrupted time series analysis. British Medical Journal 2021; 372: n254.

32 First Steps Nutrition Trust, 2019.

33 First Steps Nutrition Trust, 2019.

34 Breslin, 2013.

14. Паника вокруг добавок

1 Wood Z. Pret a Manger censured over natural sandwich ingredients claim. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: http://www.theguardian.com/business/2018/apr/18/pret-a-manger-censured-over-natural-sandwich-ingredients-claim.

2 Sustain. Pret’s progress. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.sustainweb.org/news/dec18_pret_progress/.

3 Jab Holding Company. Annual report 2020. 2021. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.jabholco.com/documents/2/FY20_ JAB_Holding_Company_Sarl_Consolidated_Financial_Statements.pdf.

4 Appelbaum B. Bagels and war crimes. 2019. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/27/opinion/bagels-war-crimes-nazi-reimann.html.

5 Bennhold K. Germany’s second-richest family discovers a dark Nazi past. 2019. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/25/world/europe/nazi-laborers-jab-holding.html.

6 Kiewel M. 33 Milliarden Euro reich: die Nazi-Vergangenheit der Calgon-Familie. 2019. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.bild.de/bild-plus/politik/inland/politik-inland/33-milliarden-euro-reich-die-nazivergangenheit-der-calgon-familie-60835802,view=conversionToLogin.bild.html.

7 Rising D. Family who owns Krispy Kreme, Panera, Peet’s Coffee acknowledges Nazi past. 2019. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nbcbayarea.com/news/national-international/family-that-owns-krispy-kremepanera-peets-coffee-acknowledges-nazi-past/159805/.

8 McCann D, Barrett A, Cooper A, et al. Food additives and hyperactive behaviour in 3-year-old and 8/9-year-old children in the community: a randomised, double-blinded, placebo-controlled trial. Lancet 2007; 370: 1560–67.

9 Neltner TG, Kulkarni NR, Alger HM, et al. Navigating the US food additive regulatory program. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 2011; 10: 342–68.

10 Naimi S, Viennois E, Gewirtz AT, et al. Direct impact of commonly used dietary emulsifiers on human gut microbiota. Microbiome 2021; 9: 66.

11 Richey Levine A, Picoraro JA, Dorfzaun S, et al. Emulsifiers and intestinal health: an introduction. Journal of Pediatric Gastroenterology and Nutrition 2022; 74: 314–19.

12 Dupont Nutrition and Biosciences. Panodan DATEM: emulsifier for efficient processing and fat reduction. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.dupontnutritionandbiosciences.com/products/panodan.html.

13 Environmental Protection Agency. Lifetime health advisories and health effects support documents for perfluorooctanoic acid and perfluorooctane sulfonate. 2016. Доступно по ссылке: https://www. regulations.gov/document/EPA-HQ-OW-2014–0138–0037.

14 Rich N. The lawyer who became DuPont’s worst nightmare. 2016. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/10/magazine/the-lawyer-who-became-duponts-worst-nightmare.html.

15 Rich, 2016.

16 Morgenson G, Mendell D. How DuPont may avoid paying to clean up a toxic «forever chemical». 2020. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nbcnews.com/health/cancer/how-dupont-may-avoid-paying-clean-toxic-forever-chemical-n1138766.

17 Morgenson & Mendell, 2020.

18 Sevelsted A, Stokholm J, Bønnelykke K, et al. Cesarean section and chronic immune disorders. Pediatrics 2015; 135: e92–98.

19 Nickerson KP, Homer CR, Kessler SP, et al. The dietary polysaccharide maltodextrin promotes Salmonella survival and mucosal colonization in mice. PLoS One 2014; 9: e101789.

20 Bäckhed F, Fraser CM, Ringel Y, et al. Defining a healthy human gut microbiome: current concepts, future directions, and clinical applications. Cell Host & Microbe 2012; 12: 611–22.

21 Dinan TG, Stilling RM, Stanton C, Cryan JF. Collective unconscious: how gut microbes shape human behavior. Journal of Psychiatric Research 2015; 63: 1–9.

22 Gilbert JA, Blaser MJ, Caporaso JG, et al. Current understanding of the human microbiome. Nature Medicine 2018; 24: 392–400.

23 Holder MK, Peters NV, Whylings J, et al. Dietary emulsifiers consumption alters anxiety-like and social-related behaviors in mice in a sex-dependent manner. Scientific Reports 2019; 9: 172.

24 Chassaing B, Koren O, Goodrich JK, et al. Dietary emulsifiers impact the mouse gut microbiota promoting colitis and metabolic syndrome. Nature 2015; 519: 92–96.

25 Nickerson et al, 2014.

26 Nickerson KP, McDonald C. Crohn’s disease-associated adherentinvasive Escherichia coli adhesion is enhanced by exposure to the ubiquitous dietary polysaccharide maltodextrin. PLoS One 2012; 7: e52132.

27 Arnold AR, Chassaing B. Maltodextrin, modern stressor of the intestinal environment. Cellular and Molecular Gastroenterology and Hepatology 2019; 7: 475–76.

28 Hofman DL, van Buul VJ, Brouns FJPH. Nutrition, health, and regulatory aspects of digestible maltodextrins. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition 2016; 56: 2091–100.

29 Ostrowski MP, La Rosa SL, Kunath BJ, et al. The food additive xanthan gum drives adaptation of the human gut microbiota. bioRxiv (preprint) 2021. DOI:10.1101/2021.06.02.446819.

30 Rodriguez-Palacios et al, 2018.

31 Naimi et al, 2021.

32 Nickerson et al, 2014.

33 Chassaing et al, 2015.

34 Nickerson & McDonald, 2012.

35 Arnold & Chassaing, 2019

36 Nair DVT, Paudel D, Prakash D, et al. Food additive guar gum aggravates colonic inflammation in experimental models of inflammatory bowel disease. Current Developments in Nutrition 2021; 5: 1142.

37 Roberts CL, Keita AV, Duncan SH, et al. Translocation of Crohn’s disease Escherichia coli across M-cells: contrasting effects of soluble plant fibres and emulsifiers. Gut 2010; 59: 1331–39.

15. Дерегулирующие органы

1 Maffini M, Neltner T. Broken GRAS: a scary maze of questions a corn oil producer couldn’t answer. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: http://blogs.edf.org/health/2022/03/25/broken-gras-a-scary-maze-of-questions-acorn-oil-producer-couldnt-answer/.

2 Goldacre B. Bad Pharma: How Medicine is Broken, And How We Can Fix It. London: HarperCollins, 2012.

3 Neltner TG, Kulkarni NR, Alger HM, Maffini MV, Bongard ED, Fortin ND and Olson ED, Navigating the U.S. Food Additive Regulatory Program. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 2011; 10: 342–68. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1541–4337.2011.00166.x.

4 Maffini MV, Neltner TG, Vogel S. We are what we eat: regulatory gaps in the United States that put our health at risk. PLoS Biology 2017; 15: e2003578.

5 Neltner TG, Alger HM, O’Reilly JT, et al. Conflicts of interest in approvals of additives to food determined to be generally recognized as safe: out of balance. JAMA Internal Medicine 2013; 173: 2032–36.

6 Delaney JJ. Investigation of the use of chemicals in food products. 1951. Доступно по ссылке: https:// aseh.org/resources/Documents/DelaneyInvestigation..Use%20of%2 °Chemicals%20in%20Foods-1.3.51. pdf.

7 Corn Oil ONE. FDA GRAS 704 Corn Oil Zero 1st Application. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.fda. gov/media/107554/download.

8 Maffini & Neltner, 2022.

9 Okull D. Stabilized chlorine dioxide in fuel ethanol fermentation: efficacy, mechanisms and residuals. 2019. Доступно по ссылке: https://distillersgrains.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/5-Okull-StabilizedChlorine-Dioxide-Fuel-Ethanol-Fermentation.pdf.

10 Maffini & Neltner, 2022.

11 Neltner et al, 2011.

12 Maffini et al, 2017.

13 Backhaus O, Benesh M. EWG analysis: Almost all new food chemicals greenlighted by industry, not the FDA. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.ewg.org/news-insights/news/2022/04/ewg-analysisalmost-all-new-food-chemicals-greenlighted-industry-not-fda.

14 Neltner TG, Alger HM, Leonard JE, et al. Data gaps in toxicity testing of chemicals allowed in food in the United States. Reproductive Toxicology 2013; 42: 85–94.

15 US National Toxicology Program. NTP technical report on the toxicology and carcinogenesis studies of isoeugenol (CAS no. 97–54-1) in F344/N rats and B6C3F1 mice. 2010. Доступно по ссылке: https://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/htdocs/lt_rpts/tr551.pdf?utm_source=direct&utm_medium=prod&utm_campaign=ntpgolinks&utm_term=tr551.

16 Nicole W. Secret ingredients: who knows what’s in your food? Environmental Health Perspectives 2013; 121: A126–33.

17 Watson E. Where are the dead bodies? Toxicology experts hit back at latest attack on food additive safety system. 2013. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.beveragedaily.com/Article/2013/08/15/Where-are-the-dead-bodies-Toxicology-experts-hit-back-at-latest-attack-on-foodadditive-safety-system.

18 Hartung T. Toxicology for the twenty-first century. Nature 2009; 460: 208–12.

16. УПП уничтожает традиционные диеты

1 Nestlé. 2016 full year results conference call transcript. 2017. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nestle. com/sites/default/files/asset-library/documents/investors/transcripts/2016-full-year-results-investor-calltranscript.pdf.

2 Jacobs A, Richtel M. How big business got Brazil hooked on junk food. 2017. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/09/16/health/brazil-obesity-nestle.html.

3 Nestlé. Door-to-door sales of fortified products. 2015. Доступно по ссылке: https://web.archive.org/ web/20150923094209/https://www.nestle.com/csv/casestudies/allcasestudies/door-to-doorsalesoffortifie dproducts,brazil.

4 Nestlé. Nestlé launches first floating supermarket in the Brazilian north region. 2010. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nestle.com/sites/default/files/asset-library/documents/media/press-release/2010-february/ nestl%C3%A9%20brazil%20press%20release%20-%20a%20bordo.pdf.

5 Figueiredo N. ADM sets record for single soybean shipment from northern Brazil. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.reuters.com/business/energy/adm-sets-record-single-soybean-shipment-northern-brazil-2022-02-22/.

6 Weight to Volume conversions for select substances and materials [Internet]. [открыто 8 мая 2022]. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate/weight-to-volume.

7 Lawrence F. Should we worry about soya in our food? 2006. Доступно по ссылке: http://www. theguardian.com/news/2006/jul/25/food.foodanddrink.

8 Dry Cargo International. Barcarena now handling export soya. 2015. Доступно по ссылке: https://www. drycargomag.com/barcarena-nowhandling-export-soya.

9 EFSA Panel on Food Additives and Flavourings. Re-evaluation of dimethyl polysiloxane (E 900) as a food additive. EFSA Journal 2020; 18:e06107.

10 Hall AB, Huff C, Kuriwaki S. Wealth, slaveownership, and fighting for the Confederacy: an empirical study of the American Civil War. American Political Science Review 2019; 113: 658–73.

11 Eskridge L. After 150 years, we still ask: why ‘this cruel war’? 2011. Доступно по ссылке: https://web.archive.org/web/20110201183505/http://www.cantondailyledger.com/topstories/x1868081570/After-150-years-we-still-ask-Why-this-cruel-war.

12 Gallagher G. Remembering the Civil War. 2011. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.c-span.org/video/?298125-1/remembering-civil-war.

13 Thompson M. I’ve always loved fried chicken. But the racism surrounding it shamed me. The Guardian [Internet]. 2020 Oct 13 [открыто 9 мая 2022]; Доступно по ссылке: http://www.theguardian.com/food/2020/oct/13/ive-always-loved-fried-chicken-but-the-racism-surrounding-it-shamed-me.

14 Searcey D, Richtel M. Obesity was rising as Ghana embraced fast food. Then came KFC. 2017. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/02/health/ghana-kfc-obesity.html.

15 Domino’s Pizza. Annual report 2016. 2016. Доступно по ссылке: https://ir.dominos.com/static-files/315497fc-5e31-42f9-8beb-f182d9282f21.

16 Statista. Number of Domino’s Pizza outlets in India from 2006 to 2021. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.statista.com/statistics/277347/numberof-dominos-pizza-stores-india/.

17 Odegaard AO, Koh WP, Yuan J-M, et al. Western-style fast food intake and cardiometabolic risk in an Eastern country. Circulation 2012; 126: 182–88.

17. Настоящая цена Pringles

1 Monckton Chambers. Regular Pringles – once you pop (open VATA 1994, Schedule 8, Group 1, Excepted Item 5), the fun doesn’t stop! 2007. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.monckton.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/ProcterGamblePringlesAug07AM.pdf.

2 Monckton Chambers, 2007.

3 British and Irish Legal Information Institute Tribunal. Procter & Gamble (UK) v Revenue & Customs [2007] UKVAT V20205. 2007. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.bailii.org/cgi-bin/format.cgi?doc=/ uk/cases/UKVAT/2007/V20205.html.

4 British and Irish Legal Information Institute Tribunal. Revenue & Customs v Procter & Gamble UK EWCA Civ 407. 2009. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.bailii.org/cgi-bin/format.cgi?doc=/ew/cases/ EWCA/Civ/2009/407.html&query=(18381).

5 Hansen J. Kellogg’s is taking the government to court over putting milk in cereal. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://london.eater.com/23044506/kelloggs-breakfast-cereal-milk-suing-government-coco-pops-frosties.

6 Sweney M. Kellogg’s to challenge new UK rules for high-sugar cereals in court. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://amp.theguardian.com/business/2022/apr/27/kelloggs-court-challenge-new-uk-rules-high-sugar-cereals.

7 Cook SF, Borah W. Essays in Population History: Mexico and California. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 1979.

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10 Marshall M, Climate crisis: what lessons can we learn from the last great cooling-off period? 2022. Доступно по ссылке: theguardian.com/environment/2022/may/09/climate-crisis-lessons-to-learn-from-the-little-ice-age-cooling.

11 Koch A, Brierley C, Maslin MM, et al. Earth system impacts of the European arrival and Great Dying in the Americas after 1492. Quaternary Science Reviews 2019; 207: 13–36.

12 Clark MA, Domingo MGG, Colgan K, et al. Global food system emissions could preclude achieving the 1.5° and 2 °C climate change targets. Science 2020; 370: 705–08.

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15 National Food Strategy, 2021.

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17 International Food Policy Research Institute. Women: The key to food security. 1995. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.ifpri.org/publication/women-key-food-security.

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19 Edwards RB, Naylor RL, Higgins MM, et al. Causes of Indonesia’s forest fires. World Development 2020; 127: 104717.

20 Greenpeace International. The final countdown. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.greenpeace. org/international/publication/18455/thefinal-countdown-forests-indonesia-palm-oil/.

21 Edwards et al, 2020.

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23 van der Goot AJ, Pelgrom PJM, Berghout JAM, et al. Concepts for further sustainable production of foods. Journal of Food Engineering 2016; 168: 42–51.

24 International Monetary Fund. Fossil fuel subsidies. 2019. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.imf.org/en/ Topics/climate-change/energy-subsidies.

25 van der Goot et al, 2016.

26 National Food Strategy, 2021.

27 Rosane O. Humans and big ag livestock now account for 96 percent of mammal biomass. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.ecowatch.com/biomass-humans-animals-2571413930.html.

28 Bar-On YM, Phillips R, Milo R. The biomass distribution on Earth. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences 2018; 25: 6506–11.

29 Monteiro CA, Moubarac J-C, Bertazzi Levy R, et al. Household availability of ultra-processed foods and obesity in nineteen European countries. Public Health Nutrition 2018; 21: 18–26.

30 Lawrence, 2006.

31 Ritchie H, Roser M. Soy. 2021. Available from https://ourworldindata.org/soy.

32 National Food Strategy, 2021.

33 Lawrence, 2006.

34 Cliff C. Intensively farmed chicken: the effect on deforestation, environment and climate change. 2021. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.soilassociation.org/blogs/2021/august/4/intensively-farmed-chicken-and-its-affect-on-the-environment-and-climate-change/.

35 Worldwide Fund For Nature. Riskier business: the UK’s overseas land footprint. 2020. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.wwf.org.uk/sites/default/files/2020–07/RiskierBusiness_July2020_V7_0.pdf.

36 Worldwide Fund for Nature. Appetite for Destruction. 2017._ Доступно по ссылке: https://www.wwf.org.uk/sites/default/files/2017–11/WWF_AppetiteForDestruction_Full_Report_Web_0.pdf.

37 Soil Association. Peak poultry – briefing for policy makers. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.soilassociation.org/media/22930/peakpoultry-briefing-for-policy-makers.pdf.

38 Worldwide Fund for Nature, 2017.

39 Soil Association, 2022.

40 Friends of the Earth Europe. Meat atlas: facts and figures about the animals we eat. Доступно по ссылке: https://friendsoftheearth.eu/wpcontent/uploads/2014/01/foee_hbf_meatatlas_jan2014.pdf.

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43 Gustavo Faleiros MA. Agro-suicide: Amazon deforestation hits Brazil’s soy producers. 2020. Доступно по ссылке: https://dialogochino.net/en/agriculture/37887-agri-suicide-amazon-deforestation-hits-rain-brazilssoy-producers/.

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45 Carrington D. Amazon rainforest now emitting more CO2 than it absorbs. 2021. Доступно по ссылке: https://amp.theguardian.com/environment/2021/jul/14/amazon-rainforest-now-emitting-more-co2-than-it-absorbs.

46 Tilman D, Clark M. Global diets link environmental sustainability and human health. Nature 2014; 515: 518–22.

47 Soil Association, 2021.

48 International Assessment of Agricultural Knowledge, Science, Technology for Development. Agriculture at a crossroads – global report. 2009. Доступно по ссылке: https://wedocs.unep.org/handle/20.500.11822/8590.

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52 Röös E, Mayer A, Muller A, et al. Agroecological practices in combination with healthy diets can help meet EU food system policy targets. Science of the Total Environment 2022; 847: 157612.

53 Muller A, Schader C, El-Hage Scialabba N, et al. Strategies for feeding the world more sustainably with organic agriculture. Nature Communications 2017; 8: 1290.

54 Fiolet et al, 2018.

55 Chen X, Zhang Z, Yang H, et al. Consumption of ultra-processed foods and health outcomes: a systematic review of epidemiological studies. Nutrition Journal 2020; 19: 86.

56 Dicken & Batterham, 2021.

57 Break Free From Plastic. Global brand audit report 2020. Доступно по ссылке: https:// www.breakfreefromplastic.org/globalbrandauditreport2020/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=getresponse&utm_content=LIVE%3A+Plastic+Polluters+Brand+Audit+Report+%26+Invitation+to+Press+Briefing&utm_campaign=Breakfreefromplastic+Membership+Master+List.

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59 McVeigh K. Coca-Cola, Pepsi and Nestlé named top plastic polluters for third year in a row. 2020. Доступно по ссылке: https://amp.theguardian.com/environment/2020/dec/07/coca-cola-pepsi-and-nestle-namedtop-plastic-polluters-for-third-year-in-a-row.

60 Laville S. Coca-Cola admits it produces 3m tonnes of plastic packaging a year. 2019. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2019/mar/14/coca-cola-admits-it-produces-3m-tonnes-of-plastic-packaging-a-year.

61 Geyer R, Jambeck JR, Law KL. Production, use, and fate of all plastics ever made. Scientific Advances 2017; 3: e1700782.

18. УПП специально создана для избыточного потребления

1 Yi J, Meemken E-M, Mazariegos-Anastassiou V, et al. Post-farmgate food value chains make up most of consumer food expenditures globally. Nature Food 2021; 2: 417–25.

2 Justia Patents. Patents by inventors Gary Norman Binley. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://patents.justia.com/inventor/gary-norman-binley.

3 Friedman M. A Friedman doctrine – the social responsibility of business is to increase its profits. 1970. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nytimes.com/1970/09/13/archives/a-friedman-doctrine-the-social-responsibility-of-business-is-to.html.

4 Sorkin AR, Giang V, Gandel S, et al. The pushback on ESG investing. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nytimes.com/2022/05/11/business/dealbook/esg-investing-pushback.html.

5 BlackRock. 2022 climate-related shareholder proposals more prescriptive than 2021. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.blackrock.com/corporate/literature/publication/commentary-bis-approach-shareholder-proposals.pdf.

6 MacAskill W. Does divestment work? 2015. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.newyorker.com/business/currency/does-divestment-work.

7 Nestlé. Nestlé enters weight management market – Jenny Craig acquisition enhances group’s nutrition, health and wellness dimension. 2006. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nestle.com/media/pressreleases/allpressreleases/weightmanagementmarketjennycraig-19jun06.

8 Jenny Craig. Jenny Craig Meals & Nutrition. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.jennycraig.com/nutrition-mission.

9 Reuters. Nestlé sells most of Jenny Craig to private equity firm. CNBC. 2013. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.cnbc.com/2013/11/07/nestle-sells-most-of-jenny-craig-to-private-equity-firm.html.

10 Nestlé. Acquisitions, partnerships & joint ventures. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nestle.com/investors/overview/mergers-and-acquisitions/nestle-health-science-acquisitions.

11 Kirchfeld A, David R, Nair D. Nestle eyed biggest-ever deal in aborted move for GSK unit. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2022–05–25/nestle-eyed-biggest-ever-deal-in-aborted-move-for-gsk-consumer.

12 Danone. Danone’s subsidiaries and equity holdings as of December 31, 2020. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.danone.com/content/dam/danone-corp/danone-com/investors/danone-at-a-glance/List%20of%20subsidiairies%202020.pdf.

13 Ralph A. Philip Morris buys respiratory drugs company Vectura for £1bn. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/philip-morris-buys-respiratory-drugs-company-vectura-for-1bn-9mfts7jxq.

19. Что мы можем попросить сделать у государства

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2 Quigley MA, Carson C. Breastfeeding in the 21st century. Lancet 2016; 387: 2087–88.

3 Stoltz T, Jones A, Rogers L, et al. 51 donor milk in the NICU: a community pediatrics perspective. Paediatrics & Child Health 2021; 26: e36–e36.

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5 Johns Hopkins Medical Institutions. Formula-fed preemies at higher risk for dangerous GI condition than babies who get donor milk. 2011. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/04/110430171122.htm.

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7 Jelliffe, 1972.

8 War on Want, 1979.

9 Jelliffe, 1972.

10 New Internationalist. Action now on baby foods. 1973. Доступно по ссылке: https://newint.org/features/1973/08/01/baby-food-action-editorial.

11 Fitzpatrick I. Nestléd in controversy. New Internationalist. 2010. Доступно по ссылке: https://newint.org/columns/applause/2010/10/01/nestle-baby-milk-campaign.

12 UNICEF. Research on marketing and the code. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.unicef.org.uk/babyfriendly/news-and-research/babyfriendly-research/research-on-marketing-and-the-code/.

13 Save the Children. Don’t push it: why the formula industry must clean up its act. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: https://resourcecentre.savethechildren.net/pdf/dont-push-it.pdf/.

14 Quigley & Carson, 2016.

15 Lamberti LM, Zakarija-Grković I, Fischer Walker CL, et al. Breastfeeding for reducing the risk of pneumonia morbidity and mortality in children under two: a systematic literature review and metaanalysis. BMC Public Health 2013; 13: S18.

16 Global Breastfeeding Collective. Nurturing the health and wealth of nations: the investment case for breastfeeding. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.globalbreastfeedingcollective.org/media/426/file/The%20investment%20case%20for%20breastfeeding.pdf.

17 Quigley & Carson, 2016.

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23 UK Food Standards Agency. Statement on the role of hydrolysed cows’ milk formulae in influencing the development of atopic outcomes and autoimmune disease. Available at: https://cot.food.gov.uk/sites/default/files/finalstatement-hydrolysedformula.pdf.

24 Japanese guidelines for food allergy 2017. Allergology Int. 2017 Apr; 66(2): 248–64.

25 The Australasian Society of Clinical Immunology and Allergy infant feeding for allergy prevention guidelines. Medical Journal of Australia 2019, Feb; 210(2):89–93 doi: 10.5694/mja2.12102.

26 The Effects of Early Nutritional Interventions on the Development of Atopic Disease in Infants and Children: The Role of Maternal Dietary Restriction, Breastfeeding, Hydrolyzed Formulas, and Timing of Introduction of Allergenic Complementary Foods. Pediatrics 2019; 143:e20190281.

27 van Tulleken C. Overdiagnosis and industry influence: how cow’s milk protein allergy is extending the reach of infant formula manufacturers. British Medical Journal 2018; 363: k5056.

28 Brown A. Why Breastfeeding Grief and Trauma Matter. London: Pinter & Martin, 2019.

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32 Victora CG, Bahl R, Barros AJD, et al. Breastfeeding in the 21st century: epidemiology, mechanisms, and lifelong effect. Lancet 2017; 387: 475–90.

33 Lodge CJ, Tan DJ, Lau MXZ, et al. Breastfeeding and asthma and allergies: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Acta Paediatrica 2015; 104: 38–53.

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36 Baker et al, 2016.

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44 The Association of UK Dietitians. BDA corporate members. 2022. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.bda.uk.com/news-campaigns/workwith-us/commercial-work/bda-corporate-members.html.

45 Greenpeace International. Top consumer companies’ palm oil sustainability claims go up in flames. 2019. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.greenpeace.org/international/press-release/25675/burningthehouse/.

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47 Jacobs A. In sweeping war on obesity, Chile slays Tony the Tiger. 2018. Доступно по ссылке: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/02/07/health/obesitychile-sugar-regulations.html.

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