Dawn Patrol

135

Sunny can't paddle into this surf.

The beach break is totally closed out. There isn't space enough between waves or sets to paddle out there, and the waves are too big to paddle over.

She comes out of the water and moves about two hundred yards south, between breaks, and paddles out onto the shoulder, then starts back north on the far side of the break. She's not alone in this maneuver-all the Jet Ski crews are out there making the same approach, buzzing around like giant, noisy water bugs. She paddles strong, smooth, and hard, her wide shoulders an advantage for a change.

The Jet Ski crews linger farther out, giving them room for the high-speed run-up into the wave.

The biggest wave Sunny's ever seen looms up behind her, with another after that. She paddles herself into perfect position for the next wave. It rolls toward her, a blue wall of water, its whitecaps snapping like cavalry guidons in the stiff offshore wind.

A beautiful wave.

Herwave.

She lies down on her board, takes a deep breath, and starts to paddle.