Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

after the meretricious adornments of our comedies and romances. It is not picturesque, but rural and pastoral, and yet, not the rural or the pastoral that is seen elsewhere in Europe.

The ten hours' twilight renders a walk at night delicious : at this moment a solemn silence pervades the atmosphere; it is like the suspension of life; nothing speaks to the senses; and my thoughts, lost in the contemplation of the pale stars of the north, soar far above the earth.

But to feel the charm of these illusions, we must come from a distance. Nature is fully appreciated only by civilised strangers; the native rustics do not enjoy, as we do, the world which surrounds them. One of the greatest benefits of society is, that it renders the inhabitants of cities alive to the beauties of the country. It is civilisation which teaches me to be pleased with those lands destined by nature to preserve to us the image of primitive life. I fly from saloons, from conversations, from good hotels and easy roads, in short from all that piques curiosity, or excites admiration in men born in semi-barbarous societies ; and, notwithstanding my aversion for the sea, I embark to-morrow in a vessel, all the inconveniences of which I shall brave with joy, provided it bears me toward the deserts and the steppes. The steppes! This eastern word alone inspires the idea of the unknown and the wonderful; it awakens in me a desire, which supplies the place of youth and courage, and which reminds me that I am come into this world only on the condition that I should travel: such is the fatality of my nature. Shall I confess it ? I D 4