Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

ROAD FROM SCHWERIN TO LUBECK.57

to keep themselves. I shall know to-morrow what to think of the individual in question. No one can judge so well of a commander as a sailor or a passenger. The love of life, that love so passionately rational, is a guide by which we can unerringly appreciate the men upon whom our existence depends.

Our noble vessel draws too much water to get up to Petersburg; we therefore change ship at Kronstadt, from whence the carriages will follow us, two days later, in a third vessel. This is tiresome, but curiosity triumphs over all: it is the chief requisite in a traveller.

jSIeeklenburg is improving. A magnificent road leads from Ludwigslust to Schwcrin, where the present Grand Duke has had the good taste to re-establish his residence. Schwerin is ancient and picturesque; a lake, lulls, woods, and an antique palace adorn the landscape, and with the city are connected historic associations. All these things are wanting at Ludwigslust.

If you would form some idea of the barbarism of the middle ages, get into a carriage in this old city, the capital of the grand duchy of jSIeeklenburg, and drive post to Lubeck. If it has rained for twenty-four hours, you must remain half-way on the road : perhaps plunged in deep ruts, which you cannot get out of without breaking or overturning the carriage : there is also danger of being lost in quagmires. This is called the grand route from Schwcrin to Lubeck : it is sixteen leagues of impracticable road.

To travel safely in Germany it is necessary to know French, and not to forget the difference that