Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

26DESECRATION OF THE KREMLIN.

What the enemy could not do, the emperor is accomplishing. He is destroying the holy ramparts of which the miners of Buonaparte could scarcely disturb a stone.

And I, who am come to the Kremlin to see this historical wonder thus spoiled, dare not raise one cry against the perpetration of the impious work — dare not make one appeal, in the name of history, the arts, and good taste, in favour of these old monuments condemned to make room for the abortive conceptions of modern architecture. I protest, but it is very secretly, against this wrong inflicted upon a nation, upon history and good taste ; and if a few of the most intelligent and informed of the men I meet here dare to listen to me, all the answer that they venture to give is, that " the emperor wishes his new residence to be more suitable than the old one : of what, then, do you complain ? " (suitable* is the sacramental word of Russian despotism.) " He has commanded that it should be rebuilt on the very spot, even, where stood the palace of his ancestors: he will have changed nothing;."

I am, being a stranger, prudent, and answer nothing to such reasoning: but were I a Russian, I would defend, stone by stone, the ancient Avails and enchanted towers of the fortress of the Ivans; I would almost prefer the dungeon under the Xeva, or exile, to the shame of remaining a mute accomplice in this imperial vandalism. The martyr of good taste might yet obtain an honourable place below the martyr of faith: the arts are a religion,—a religion which, in