Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

tìcult task of shoeing him. The magnificent but un-

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tractable animal belonged, I was told, to the stud of a neighbouring lord : the eight persons who were endeavouring to manage him, all displayed a figure, a costume, and a countenance that was striking. The population of the provinces adjoining the capital is not, however, handsome : it is not even Russian, being much mixed with the race of the Finns, who resemble the Laplanders.

They tell me that in the interior of the empire I shall find perfect models of Grecian statues, several of which I have indeed already seen in Petersburg, where the nobles are often attended by the men born on their distant estates.

Л low and confined room adjoined this immense shed ; it reminded me of the cabin of some river boat; walls, ceiling, floor, seats, and tables, were all of wood rudely hewn. The smell of cabbage and pitch was extremely powerful.

In this retreat, almost deprived of air and light, for the doors were low, and the windows extremely small, I found an old woman busy serving tea to four or five bearded peasants, clothed in pelisses of sheepskin, the wool of which is turned inwards, for it has already, and for some days past, become rather cold.* These men were of short stature. Their leather pelisses were rather tasteful, but they were very ill scented : I know nothing except the perfumes of the nobles that could be more so. On the table stood a bright copper kettle and a teapot. The tea is always of good quality, well made, and, if it is not pre-

* This is the 1st of August.