Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

234CHURCH OF THE STROGONOFFS.

scarcely seemed more loud than the great drums of the Opera, and which appeared much more in place than they do. When the tents, whence issued the harmonious notes, appeared before us, the setting sun, glistening upon their canvas, added the magic of colour to that of sounds.

The governor, who saw the pleasure that I experienced in listening to this music, allowed me to enjoy it, and enjoyed it himself, for a considerable time. nothing gives greater pleasure to this truly hospitable man than to procure enjoyment for his guests. The best way of showing him your gratitude is to let him see your gratification. We finished our ride by twilight; and, returning through the low town, we stopped before a church which has not ceased to attract my eyes since I have been in j\Tijni. It is a true model of Russian architecture; neither ancient Greek, nor the Greek of the Lower Empire, but a Delft-ware toy, in the style of the Kremlin, or of the church of Vassili Blagennoï, though with less variety in the form and colour. It is so covered with flower-work and carvings of curious form, that one cannot stop before it without thinking of a vessel of Dresden china. This little chef-d'oeuvre of the whimsical is not ancient. It was raised by the munificence of the Strogonoff family; great nobles descended from the merchants, at whose cost was made the conquest of Siberia under Ivan IV. The brothers Strogonoíf of that period, themselves raised the adventurous army which conquered a kingdom for Russia. Their soldiers were the buccaneers of terra firm a.

The interior of the church of the Strogonofts does not answer to its exterior; but, such as it is, I greatly