Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

Galleries and projecting boxes are unknown here: there is at Petersburg no citizen class for whom to provide seats. The architect, therefore, unfettered in his plan, can construct theatres of a simple and regular design, like those of Italy, where the women who are not of the highest ranks arc seated in the pit.

By special favour I obtained a chair in the first row of the pit. On gala days these chairs are reserved for the greatest nobles, and the high court functionaries, and none are admitted to them except in the uniform or costume of their rank or office.

My right-hand neighbour, seeing from my dress that I was a stranger, addressed me in French with that hospitable politeness, which in Petersburg is a characteristic of the higher, and, to a certain extent, of all classes; for here everyone is polite—the great, through the vanity of showing their good breeding, the little, through sentiments of fear.

After a few common-place observations, I asked my obliging neighbour the name of the piece that was to be performed. " It is a translation from the French," he answered : " The Devil on two Sticks." I puzzled my head to no purpose to make out what drama could have been translated under this title; at length it turned out that the translation was a pantomime founded on our ballet of the same name.

I did not much admire it, and directed my attention chiefly to the audience. At length, the court arrived. The imperial box is an elegant saloon, which occupies the back part of the theatre, and which is even yet more brilliantly illuminated.

The entrance of the emperor was imposing. As he advanced to the front of his box, accompanied by