Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

STATUE OF PETER THE GREAT.13J

If a spy, he was at least a useful one, speaking both French and Russian, and undertaking to procure me a drowsky; while, in the mean time, he himself aided my valet to transport in a cart to ]Coulon`s hotel such part of my baggage as had been given up.

Coulon is a Frenchman, who is said to keep the best hotel in Petersburg, which is not saying much. In Russia, foreigners soon lose all trace of their national character, without, at the same time, ever assimilating with that of the natives.

The obliging stranger found even a guide for me who could speak German, and who mounted behind in the drowsky, in order to answer my questions. This man acquainted me with the names of the buildings we passed in proceeding to the hotel, which occupied some tune, for the distances are great in Petersburg.

The too celebrated statue of Peter the Great, placed on its rock by the Empress Catherine, first attracted my attention. The equestrian figure is neither antique nor modern; it is a Roman of the time of Louis XV. To aid in supporting the horse, an enormous serpent has been placed at his feet; which is an ill-conceived idea, serving only to betray the impotence of the artist.

I stopped for one moment before the scaffolding of an edifice which, though not yet completed, is already famous in Europe, the church, namely, of St. Isaac. I also saw the facade of the new winter palace; another mighty result of human will applying human physical powers in a struggle with the laws of nature. The end has been attained, for in one year this palace has risen from its ashes; and it is the largest, I