THE

EMPIRE 0E THE CZAR.

CHAPTER I.

ARRIVAL OF THE HEREDITARY GRAND DUKE OF RUSSIA AT EMS.

CHARACTER OF RUSSIAN COURTIERS.THE PERSON OF THE

GRAND DUKE. HIS FATHER AND UNCLE AT THE SAME AGE.

HIS EQUIPAGES AND SUITE.SUPERIORITY OF THE ENGLISH IN

ALL EXTERNAL APPURTENANCES. THE RHINE. THE RIVER

MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN ITS BANKS. — FIRE-FLIES ON THE RHINE.

I date from yesterday the commencement of my Russian Travels.* The Hereditary Grand Duke has arrived at Ems, preceded by ten or twelve carriages, and attended by a numerous court.

What has chiefly struck me in my first view of Russian courtiers is the extraordinary submissivcness with which, as grandees, they perform their devoirs. They seem, in fact, to be only a higher order of slaves; but the moment the Prince has retired, a free, unrestrained, and decided manner is reassumcd, which contrasts unpleasantly with that complete abnegation of self, afTccted only the moment before. In a word, there appears to reign throughout the suite

* 5th June, 1839.

VOL. I.B

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