Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

286CASTLE OF PETROWSKI.

different from that of the other great European cities. The sky, when viewed from the middle of such a city, is a golden glory, similar to those seen in old paintings. Schnitzlcr states, that, in 1730, Weber counted at Moscow 1500 churches. Coxe, in 1778, fixes the number at 484. As for myself, I am content with endeavouring to describe the aspect of things. I admire without counting, — I must, therefore, refer the lovers of catalogues to books made up entirely of numerals.

I have said enough, I hope, to impart to the reader a portion of the surprise which the first view of Moscow produced in me. To add to that surprise he must recollect, what he will have often read, that this city is a country within itself, and that fields, lakes, and woods, enclosed within its limits, place a considerable distance between the different edifices that adorn it. The objects being so scattered, greatly increases the effect. The whole plain is covered with a silver giuze. Three or four hundred churches, thus spread, present to the eye an immense semicircle, so that when approaching the city, towards sunset on a stormy evening, it would be easy to fancy you saw a rainbow of fire impending above the churches of Moscow : this is the halo of the holy city. But at about three quarters of a league from the gate, the illusion vanishes. Here, the very real and heavy brick palace of Petrowski arrests the attention. It was built by Catherine after an odd modern design : the ornaments with which it is profusely covered stand in white against the red walls. These decorations, which are formed, I think, of plaster, are in a style of extravagant Gothic. The building is as