Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

146PETERSBURG IN THE MORNING.

will which was not their own. The morning is the time for commissions and errands, and not one individual appeared to be walking on his own account. I observed few good looking women, and heard no girlish voices ; every thing was dull and regular as in a barrack. Military discipline reigns throughout Russia. The aspect of the country makes me regret Spain as much as though I had been born an Andalusian: it is not however the heat which I want, for that here is almost suffocating : it is light and light-heartedness. Love and liberty for the heart, brilliancy and variety of colour for the eye, are here unknown : in a word, Russia is in all respects the very opposite of Spain. Fancy can almost descry the shadow of death hovering over this portion of the globe.

Now appears a cavalry officer passing at full gallop to bear an order to some commanding officer; then a chasseur carrying an order to some provincial governor, perhaps at the other extremity of the empire, whither he proceeds in a kibitka, a little Russian chariot, without springs or stuffed seat. This vehicle, driven by an old bearded coachman, rapidly conveys the courier, whose rank would prevent his using a more commodious equipage had he one at his disposal. Next are seen foot soldiers returning from exercise to their quarters, in order to receive orders from their captain. This automaton population resembles one side of a chess-board, where a single individual causes the movements of all the pieces, but where the adversary is invisible. One neither moves nor respires here except by an imperial order; consequently everything is dull, formal, and