Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

194LAZZAEONIS OF THE NORTH.

which is picturesque. These men, although the} inhabit cold countries, live on little, clothe lightly, and sleep in the open air in fine weather. They are the true lazzaronis of the north, though less gay, witty, or buffoonish, and more dirty than those of Naples; because, to the uncleanliness of their persons is added that of their garments, which they never take off.

What I have already written will serve to give an idea of the exterior of the fair: the interior, I repeat, is much less interesting. Without, are ears and trucks moving amid a crowd where reign disorder, cries, songs, and, in short, liberty : within are regularity, silence, solitude, order, the police, and, in one word, Russia! Immense files of houses, or rather stalls, separate about a dozen long and broad streets, which terminate in a Russian church and in twelve Chinese pavilions. The united length of all the streets and alleys of the fair, properly so called, and without speaking of the faubourgs, is ten leagues.

The Emperor Alexander, after having selected the new ground for the fair, ordered the necessary works for its establishment, but he never saw it. He was ignorant of the immense sums that had to be added to his budget to make this low land fitted to the use for which it was destined. By means of amazing efforts and enormous expenditure the fair is now habitable during summer, which is all that is required for commerce. But it is not the less badly situated : being rendered dusty or miry by the first ray of sun, or smallest rain, and remaining unhealthy at all times; which is no small evil for the merchants obliged to sleep above their magazines for the space of six weeks.