Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

262 EFFECT OF THE EMPEROR'S PRESENCE.

among the highest steeples and towers, there spread the news of the unusual disorder.

That disorder was the consequence of the works commanded by the emperor to welcome his own approaching arrival: he fetes himself, and illuminates his Kremlin when he comes to Moscow. Meantime, as the darkness increased, the city brightened: its illuminated streets, shops, coffee-houses, and theatres, rose out of the dark like magic. The day was also the anniversary of the emperor's coronation—another motive for illuminating. The Russians have so many joyful days to celebrate that, were I in their place, I should never put out my lamps.

The approach of the magician has already begun to be felt. Three weeks ago Moscow was only inhabited by merchants, who proceeded about their business in drowskas: now, noble coursers, splendid equipages, gilded uniforms, great lords, and numerous valets, enliven the streets and obstruct the porticos. " The emperor is thirty leagues off: who knows if he will not be here to-morrow, or perhaps to-night ? It is said he was here yesterday, incognito: who can prove that he is not here now ? " And this doubt, this hope, animates all hearts; it changes the faces and languages of all persons, and the aspect of every thing. Moscow, the merchant-city, is now as much troubled and agitated as a citizen's wife expecting the visit of a great nobleman. Deserted palaces and gardens are re-opened; flowers and torches vie with each other in brilliancy ; flattering speeches begin to murmur through the crowd: I fear lest I myself should catch the influence of the illusion, if not