Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

EFFECTS OF THE THAW.—HOUSES.293

have eities it is not because they wanted them, but because their military masters compel them to emulate the West of Europe. These unfortunate animals, placed in the eage of European civilisation, are victims of the mania, or rather of the ambition of the Czars, conquerors of the future world, and who well know that before subjugating us, they must imitate us.

Nothing, I am told, can give any idea of the state of the Petersburg streets during the melting of the snow. Within the fortnight which follows the breaking up of the iee on the Neva, all the bridges are earned away, and the communications between different quarters of the eity are, during several days, interrupted, and often entirely broken off. The streets then become the beds of furious torrents: few political erises eould cause so much damage as this annual revolt of nature against an incomplete and impracticable civilisation. Since the thaw at Petersburg has been described to me I complain no longer of the pavements, detestable though they be ; for I remember they have to be renewed every year.

After mid-day, the Perspective Newski, the grand square of the palace, the quays and the bridges are enlivened by a considerable number of carriages of various kinds and curious forms : this rather relieves the habitual dulness of the most monotonous capital in Europe. The interior of the houses is equally gloomy, for notwithstanding the magnificence of certain apartments destined to receive company, and furnished in the English style, there may be seen in the baek ground various. signs of a want of cleanliness and order which at once reminds the observer of Asia.