Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

CHAPTER XXII.

Road from Petersburg to Moscow. — Speed of travelling. — A Livonian. — Punishment of a Postilion. — The best means of governing. — English Carriages on Russian Roads. — The Country People. — Aspect of the Country. — The Post-house. — Mountains of Valdai. — Costume of the Peasantry.—Russian Ladies en Deshabille.—Small Russian Towns.— Torjeck Russian Leather. — Chicken Fricassee. — A double Road.

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The Countess O'Donnell. — Boy Coachmen. — The Road. —

Gracefulness of the People. — Dress of the Women. — The

See-saw. — Beauty of the Female Peasants. — Russian Cot

tages.— Customs of the Serfs.— Devout Thieves.—Want

of Principle in the Higher Classes. — Female Politicians. —

Domestic Happiness of the Serfs. — Casuistical Reflections.—

Connection of the Church and State. — Abolition of the Pa

triarchate of Moscow. — Fundamental Difference between

Sects and a Mother Church. — History of a Foal. — The

Author injured by the Moral Atmosphere. — National Moral

Responsibility. — Dream of a waking Man. — First View of

the Volga.— Spain and Russia compared. — Dews of the

North.251

First View of Moscow. — Symbolic Architecture of Greek

Churches. — Castle of Petrowski. — Entrance to Moscow. —

Aspect of the Kremlin.—Church of SaintBasil.—The French

at Moscow. — Anecdote relative to the French in Russia. —

Battle of Moskowa. — The Kremlin a City. — Origin of the

word Czar. — An English |Hotel in Russia. — The City by

Moonlight. — Population of Moscow. — The Object of Con

science.— Gardens under the Walls of the Kremlin.— De

scription of the Fortress. — Ivan III. — Napoleon and the

Kremlin. — Modern Grandiloquence.... 283