Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

124MORE CUSTOM-HOUSE ANNOYANCES.

ployés. I have retained the remark, with the justice of which my own experience has only too deeply impressed me. As far as I have been hitherto able to observe, a work that should be entitled The Russians judged by Themselves, would be severe. The love of their country is with them only a mode of flattering its master; as soon as they think that master can no longer hear, they speak of every tiling with a frankness which is the more startling because those who listen to it become responsible.

The cause of all our delay was at length revealed. The chief of chiefs, the director of the directors of the custom-house again presented himself: it was this visit we had been awaiting so long, without knowing it. At first it appeared as if the only business of the great functionary was to play the part of the man of fashion among the Russian ladies. He

reminded the Princess Dof their rencontre in a

house where the Princess had never been ; he spoke to her of court balls she had never seen : but while continuing to dispense these courtly airs, our drawing-room offieer of the customs would now and then gracefully confiscate a parasol, stop a portmanteau, or recommence, with an imperturbable sang froid, the researches already conscientiously made by his subordinates.

In Russian administration, minuteness does not exclude disorder. Much trouble is taken to attain unimportant ends, and those employed believe they can never do enough to show their zeal. The result of this emulation among clerks and commissioners is, that the having passed through one formality does not secure the stranger from another. It is like a pil-