Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

new; where the reigning notion effaces daily the traces of the past. Its square and solid form, its deep moats, tragic associations, and secret gates and staircases favourable to crime, impart to it an imposing air, which is a rare advantage in Petersburg. At each step I take I am amazed to observe the confusion that has been every where made in this city between two arts so very different as those of architecture and decoration. Peter the Great and his successors seem to have taken their capital for a theatre.

I was struck with the startled air of my guide, when I questioned him, in the most easy and natural manner that I could assume, on the events that had taken place in the old palace. The physiognomy of this man replied, " it is easy to see you are a new comer." Surprise, fear, mistrust, affected innocence, pretended ignorance, the experience of an old soldier who would not easily be duped, took possession, by turns, of his countenance, and made it a book equally instructing and amusing to peruse. When your spy is at fault by reason of your apparent security, the expression of his face is truly grotesque, for he believes himself compromised by you so soon as he sees that you do not fear being compromised by him. The spy thinks only of his vocation; and if you escape his nets, he begins at once to imagine that he is going to fall into yours.

A promenade through the streets of Petersburg, under the charge of a domestique de place, is not without interest, and little resembles a progress through the capitals of other civilised lands. One thing is singularly connected with and dependent on another ii 5