Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

THE GRAND GALLERY.231

she retorted, with an expression altogether indescribable, " Toujours poli! " The autocrat bit his lips as he caught my eye, and the line of dance again moved forward.

I was dazzled with the splendour of the great gallery: it is now entirely gilded, though before the fire it was only painted white. That disaster has served to minister to the taste which the emperor has for the magnificent.

All the ambassadors of Europe had been invited to admire the marvellous achievement of this government, a government which is so m;ich the more bitterly criticised by the vulgar, as it is admired and envied by political men, — minds essentially practical, and who, approve the simplicity of the machine of despotism. One of the largest palaces in the world built in a year ! what a subject of admiration for men accustomed to breathe the air of courts !

Great objects are never attained without great sacrifices. Unity, force, and authority in the direction of public affairs, are purchased here by the loss of liberty, while in France, j)olitical liberty and commercial wealth have been purchased at the cost of the ancient spirit of chivalry, and of that delicacy of feeling formerly called our national honour. This honour is replaced by other virtues less patriotic, but more universal -÷- by humanity, religion and charity. Every one admits that in France there is more religion now than there was at a time when the clergy was all-powerful. A wish to embrace the advantages which do not belong to each situation, is to lose those which do belong to it. It is this which is not ad-