Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

THE RUSSIAN MIDDLE CLASS.195

of the national costume. But what surprised me more than their careless attire, was the caustic and captions tone of their conversation. The Russian feeling, carefully disguised by the tact of the higher orders, exhibited itself here openly. This society was more candid, though less polite, than that of the court; and I clearly saw what I had only felt elsewhere, namely, that the spirit of curiosity, sarcasm, and carping criticism influences the Russians in their intercourse with strangers. They hate us as every imitator hates his model; their scrutinising looks seek faults in us with the desire of finding them. As soon as I recognised this disposition I felt no inclination to be indulgent myself. I had thought it necessary to offer a few words of excuse for my ignorance of the Russian tongue, and I finished my speech by remarking that every traveller ought to know the language of the country he visits, as it is more natural that he should give himself the trouble of learning to speak the language of those whom he seeks, than of imposing upon them the trouble of speaking as he does.

This compliment was answered by the observation, that I must nevertheless resign myself to hearing French murdered by the Russians, unless I would travel as a mute.

'-' It is of this I complain," I replied; " if I knew how to murder Russian as I ought to do, I would not force you to change your habits in order to speak my language."

c¢ Formerly Ave spoke only French."

c¢ That was wrong."

" It is not for you to reproach us." к 2